What's a tripod for ~$150 that doesn't suck balls? Pan head preferably.
My friend bought a Minolta X-300 from some (reputable) guy on Danish eBay recently and just got done with his first roll.
Maybe 8/36 of the photos are plagued with a light leak.
https://i.redd.it/fyzlbfy4u9z11.jpg
apologies for these bad quality ones
https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/1809/78ffc7e2-abe4-421a-954d-baae23c1cd39/image.png
https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/1809/d4fc3362-1b1a-484f-b64c-cd40ee483a5d/image.png
Other than these, the other 30 or so were fine.
There doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason as to why the leak is happening (I'd expect a standard leak to be more consistent), and the colour of the leak varies (I think blue generally indicates the front of the camera and red/orange indicates the back).
Is it best to just take the camera to a shop? Seems a bit too strange to be a simple hinge seal replacement - unless - the take up spool winds backwards, exposing the front of the film to the back of the camera.
Any ideas on what to do?
is it that he's just shit at using film?
This looks like the film was exposed while rolled up, which explains the random orange/blue tint
I'm not really sure how to identify and correct leaks though.
well that was my original thought, but how likely is it for film to be ruined before you buy it? if the leak was consistent in shape/at regular intervals you could easily conclude it's the light seals on the camera but they're pretty random like you said.
If the leak is in the area where the film rolls up after being exposed, the first photos will have more frequent leaks, while the last photos will have stronger leaks.
It may appear a bit random when cut up and out of the context of the roll, but that's just my hunch.
I guess you just have to test with a new roll.
Even though they were cheaper lenses back in the day and didn't sell particularly well, I love the Nikon Series E lineup. Today I received the 100mm variant that I picked up on eBay for a very reasonable price. Right now I have the 35mm and 50mm models in my collection too. A near-mint 28mm is also making its way over to me, thanks to a good friend of mine. She works at a camera store and was able to snag it for $15 thanks to some special insider employee pricing benefits. Pretty happy about that, since the 28mm usually goes for $60+ in decent shape.
https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/226487/0c50f260-f935-488c-86d2-60b4c5797a1b/SE2.jpg
https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/226487/537f3eff-4702-4040-bf00-fdfa03576815/SE3.jpg
It's in really good shape with no haze, fungus, or separation on the elements. That focusing ring is also like turning a safe dial, it's so smooth.
I have ascended. now i can finally do long exposures without having to do obscure constructions
https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/57917/ca7fa0ff-6c8b-4191-b338-ffc133d752df/image.png
Just dropped 4k on a Fuji TX-1
that's 1 month's pay gone, oof
hey fellaz
I want to shoot med format beyond 6x6. I have studied many many options and I think I'm gonna settle for a RB67. I know its impossible to walk around and shoot with, but I'm gonna use it mostly for landscape. I am drawn to the waist level viewfinder, the ability to use a 6x7 and 6x4.5, and the wide selection of lenses. I really really want a gs645, but I guess I'll just own both?? eventually...
anybody want to buy a working kiev60?
I'm a moron, turns out I fucked up the exchange rate and I'm like off by a thousand.
Lesser
The RB67 also has the option for a 6x8 back, if you want the larger frame and the 4:3 aspect ratio. Keep in mind, if you are using the 645 back on it, your lenses will be significantly less wide. Your 65mm goes from a 32mm equiv to 41mm.
https://rb67.helluin.org/2011/02/09/qa-6x8-on-the-rb67/
The reason you don’t find many 645 cameras that are rangefinder style, is because they are fixed with a portrait shooting style unless rotated 90 degrees, contrary to most standard cameras. The 645 film strip travels vertically most of the time, whereas 6x7 it’s traveling horizontally for a landscape ratio.
right, the 6x7 is better for landscape, i could see the gs645 being my favorite portrait camera if I had one, since it shoots vertically by default. The rb67 can shoot landscape and portrait just by rotating the back though, which is one of the coolest features i've ever seen in a camera.
hey lads, my canon 50mm 1.8 meme lens has started acting strange and i'm wondering if it's time to buy a new one
the left hand side of the images i take with this lens wide open are soft beyond belief for some reason and I know the lens is far from the sharpest at 1.8 but it seems off
https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/843/4ab8c762-c981-4153-b090-ffcc4ee292d6/IMG_3070.jpg
apologies for the shit picture but it's the most noticeable example i could find in my lightroom
notice how soft the area of the image is from the kfc to the van vs the taxis sign on roughly the same plane
i've ruled out the sensor of my 80d since i mostly shoot with a 17-55 2.8 which is sharp all over and i've obviously given it a good wipe down with a zeiss lens wipe
i don't really mind buying a new one since they're so cheap (this is actually my second one since i dropped my first one and completely destroyed it) but i thought i should ask some experts in case it's something simple to fix
To me this seems like it could be a loose lens element.
Inspect the lens with a light, and see if anything internal rattles.
fucking hell i thought there might be a more serious problem with the lens alignment until i remember that's actually what aberdeen looks like
ahh, it's def got a nasty rattle after being dropped a while ago.
hadn't ever looked in to misaligned elements but it's def what's going on, guess i should probably just replace it since alignment isn't exactly easy to fix and it's the cheapest lens ever
dont start mate we got voted happiest city in scotland like 12 years ago thank you very much..........
You have a decentered lens element without a doubt. Replace it with the STM, it has noticeably improved build quality and will be less likely to have decentering.
i was commenting on his miserable it looks im afraid
I have a question about lenses. I own a Cannon T6/1300D with its stock lens and the RAW files have so much noise when i open them in my editing programs that i prefer just editing the JPG file instead. Would getting a 1.8 prime lens get me better results? I know about stops, so i do play with the aperture, shutter and ISO to get the best stop instead of using the automatic modes.
Assuming you're using a f/3.5-5.6 kit lens, a f/1.8 prime lens would yield a considerable improvement in noise levels as it would allow you to lower your ISO a lot.
Assuming f/3.5, your ISO could be lowered from 1600 to 400 (2 stops)
Assuming f/5.6, your ISO could be lowered from 1600 to 160 (3 & 1/3 stops)
Just remember that everything in photography is a compromise. With a larger aperture comes a shallower depth of field. It can be more difficult to get the subject in focus reliably.
But I'd say go for it - a 35mm f/1.8 would be a nice lens to advance to from your kit lens.
Yeah, my kit lens is exactly that. I'm thinking of getting a f/1.8 35mm along with a f/1.8 50mm. Thanks for the answer!
A model dropped mine not too long ago, but like she's 18 so she wasn't able to afford.
Luckily I found a second hand one for $80.
That's the good thing about 50mm, its cheap enough for you to get another.
What ISO are you shooting at?
bought an rb67 pro s in its proper case! It came with the 90mm 3.8 and the 180mm 4.5, both pretty cheap lenses, but I think it was a decent deal for $450. Came with the 120 back, a Polaroid back, and 3 filters too. The foam on the 120 back is needs replacement, but everything else is in great condition. Excited to shoot my first roll either next weekend or early in the morning this week!
https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7874/32263515807_16daef1aa6_c.jpg
https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7887/46482339114_b461d23794_c.jpg
https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7860/32263516627_5e70a603de_c.jpg
I usually try to get 400 for indoor shoots.
I got a question about shift lenses. All I am interested in is correcting perspective distortion, not making "toy pictures". Is the way that tilt shift lenses work is that they project a much larger image onto the sensor, and by shifting the lens you select what part of the projection you capture? Or am I misunderstanding how this works? And if i'm correct, wouldn't it be possible to have a shift adapter for a medium format lens, and it would work good because the sensor is already cropping the field of view of a lens? All I can find online is people talking about using new lenses designed for tilt shift, adapted to a sony a7. What would happen if I had a tilt shift adapter that mounts a pentacon six lens onto my sony a7? Its hard to find clear info on this stuff.
You're correct and yes that is indeed possible and has been done.
For example, the lens here is just your standard 6x6 80mm 2.8 but mounted onto a tilt-shift adapter for use with 35mm or smaller format cameras.
http://araxfoto.com/specials/tilt-shift-80/
This is exactly the info I was looking for!! All I needed was shifting, and I have a kiev 60 with the 90mm already, so I don't need to go out and buy a lens. That $95 one will do the job perfectly I think. Thanks a ton!
So during the past years, LED panels have really gotten cheap. I bought a set of two temperature adjustable panels, including stands, for 110GBP on ebay. Great deal and I'm pretty satisfied with the light output.
If only wireless lav mics could get the same treatment, they are still disgustingly expensive imo. Especially if you want a dual channel receiver
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