• 3D Printing Thread V2 - Making homemade spaghetti since 1981
    289 replies, posted
Has anyone had any luck selling models on a market like pinshape or shapeways? I'm starting to think about selling some of the things I've built (I've got a Dark Souls knight I think people might like) but idk how much they'll really net. I've put up a few models for free and they've gotten a combined download count of like 200+ by now but free stuff is a different ballgame I think.
So, first print with PETG: Successful...? Likes: No hot-box needed Didn't need much tuning outside of higher temperatures, which the Tarantula could actually do Print came out with a nice, smooth finish Seems tough as nails Dislikes: The raft won't come off. Some ghosting present on corners (more the printers' fault than the material, still gotta brace this dumb thing up on some MDF or something) I've also finally managed to get rid of the incredible Z-wobble by printing out a collet-style coupler, but the thing seems hit-or-miss because while it seemed to stay tight throughout this entire print, as soon as I auto-leveled for the next attempt (no raft or brim on this try) the coupling came loose. Doesn't help that I suddenly find myself unable to find my wrenches to really crank down on the tightness of this thing. :/ https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/132319/1fc4fbb4-d131-4316-88a4-a3e0bc174df0/20180706_104036.jpg
FUCK. The threads in the cheap Titan clone that came with the tarantula stripped out, so now I can't connect the tubing connector to it. https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/132319/0ac93d79-0e34-4b5b-b6ca-a66734e01589/20180707_182726.jpg Guess I'll have to swap to the stock extrud-FUCK. https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/132319/e00ded47-e37c-45d5-8675-6ae8be5e3ff0/20180708_105543.jpg And the replacement won't get here until Friday.
Tubing connector: I cannot work, I have naught but 3/4-1 1/4 threads left... Me: Fuck that shit you've got work to do. You can do this, I believe in you! Tubing connector: ...O-okay! I can do this! I can do this!!! https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/132319/af04eaa5-63b6-4487-a84e-63109cfce364/20180708_181310.jpg
Been pushed into printing DnD minis for some friends (At cost of 50p an hour, which I think is very reasonable considering how much fucking effort I put in. Originally they asked for 100 printed!), I swapped to 0.2mm nozzle and with the tabletop profile got some pretty good prints going. https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/703/0a7327ef-17ea-4b3a-aa5b-8902e2b2d5b8/image.png (Beholder and Samurai were test prints for adjusting the profile, the right guy is with the final profile) After about 4 days of pretty continuous prints I get my first ever clog on my printer (I normally run 0.4 or 0.6 nozzles). I've tried cold pulls, scraping the nozzle, heating the nozzle up very hot and forcing stuff through but it still clogs after a few mm of extrusion. The clog caused some PLA to char inside the hotend when I removed the nozzle, so I scraped all of that off. I have a tiny needle but it's too big for 0.2 so I'm pretty sure that nozzle is going into the bin. I've ordered 10 0.2mm mk8 nozzles from aliexpress for £3.50. So if this happens again I'll just swap to a new nozzle. I've heard boiling a nozzle in water can soften PLA and free up anything stuck on the nozzle, so maybe i'll give that a go before my new ones arrive.
I'm still trying to work Z-banding out of my prints. I've inverted the motor, used coupler modifications that eliminate the springiness of the coupler, adjusted it over and over again, and still the issue persists. If I were to estimate, the amount of prints on this printer amount to approx. 30% calibration prints, 10% misc., and 60% upgrades/repairs for the printer. Tevo Tarantula: The kit you never stop assembling
Since i've been printing minis I decided to have a go at designing some earrings my friend asked for a while back (I had the small nozzle on for tiny things, however since the clog i'm back to 0.4mm) https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/703/2722f019-c398-43e3-ab32-d102dc07bca7/image.png I've since revised the top, as i'm 100% sure it will be a failure point. The ear hook should clip through the loop. It actually looked really shiny off the printer but the layer lines weren't great underneath so I gave it a sand with 600 grit and it smoothed it right down, but dulled it in the process. I should probably get some 1000+ grit to make it shine
New Z-rod came in. ...The anti-backlash nut is too big for most Z-attachments. Guess I gotta design my own.
Anyone have recommendations for filament that would be good wheel material? I'm thinking ninjaflex as it's the only filament that has any friction off the top of my head but I'm open to suggestions.
I would go with Ninjaflex too, as is incredibly tough as well.
That feeling when you finish a 13.5~ hour print and the parts don't want to come off the raft.
Patience my friend And sharp tools, also
This is PETG. Can't hardly even get an X-acto knife under the pieces.
I'm getting a bit frustrated with my library's printer constantly doing weird little things or the attendants forgetting to queue part of a large print, this is like the third or fourth time in a month I've had to email them requesting a reprint or the completion of an order. I've been printing those pirate ships and some statuettes/figures and it's getting annoying to receive my completed print only to find a set of sails is missing or that there's warping in part of the model that went unnoticed or the print just failed near the end but didn't make a mess so the attendants didn't try to print it again.
Well, that's infuriating. Trying to print some parts and the skirt comes out perfectly fine, sticks okay, then once it starts printing the actual part the filament just sticks to the hot-end and globs up.
You may have already tried these things: Try printing the first layer slower
Top and bottom layers were 20mm/s. The dumbest part is, I tried printing the exact same gcode earlier that day, and it stuck perfectly, except one side of it was warping/peeling up and the hot-end kept bumping into it, so I got worried it would eventually just bump it off the bed altogether (that and as much as it had warped it wouldn't have worked very well for what was printing), and every attempt after that is when it started just wadding plastic on the hot-end.
So the bad news: The Tarantula broke again. https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/132319/4ddfe67f-c15c-486c-98d5-ce8d522ea2d4/20180722_014622.jpg The good news: I managed to print better parts to replace the shit that broke before the printer broke: https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/132319/ab396e1b-2948-4d5b-a000-258efc10971b/20180722_014634.jpg Out of the shit that refuses to stick, no less.
Man your printer sounds really difficult
The Tevo Tarantula is a real fixer upper printer. I've had to incorporate a couple of routines before I get mine setup (mostly tigthening the hot end, verifying the bed is still level and resetting the z-axis with a shim before starting auto-bed leveling). First month/two after assembling it was annoying as hell to print. I'd get a succesful relatively quality print around half the time. The included acrylic mounts IMO don't have enough meat on them to survive extended use under the mechanical strain. Especially the z-axis motor mount. You can buy metal cuts of it, but I found some substaintally thicker/beefier lexan sheets I had lying around and cut/drilled them to size. Really you want to mod the hell out of it with a cooling fan, proper bowden tube and support rails on the y-axis to make the bed less wobbly. I'm also considering getting a spare z-axis stepper.
Honestly as much money as I've spent on this thing to repair/upgrade it I might as well have just bought a Creality printer. Went ahead and bought 4 Silent StepSticks to upgrade the current drivers, should be here the middle of next week, but the jumpers I bought to go with it won't be here until Friday. Also, in relation to the parts I printed to replace the Z-carriage, I have a suggestion for Thingiverse (or if any of you submit anything to Thingiverse that requires hardware that isn't/can't be printed): If you submit a design that uses fasteners, you DAMN WELL SHOULD INCLUDE A BILL OF MATERIALS FOR SAID FASTENERS. There are few things more annoying than having to drag my ass + printed parts to a hardware store to try and poke various fasteners in them just to make sure I have the right ones/buying what appears to fit just fine only to find that the nut spins freely in the cavity you've designed.
"Huh, been a while since I've been to the Tevo Tarantula owner's group on Facebook. I wonder why I rarely pop in there-" https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/132319/af3a0031-d0f2-4973-89bf-7d7a5dc1ba29/Clipboard01.jpg "Ah, that's right, I remember now."
Jesus Christ what a dick. Why can't he just be helpful if he knows so much? A product shouldn't be that difficult to get working. I spent ~$450 on the FlashForge Finder, and I've never had any problems with it apart from a filament once in a blue moon.
Damn, those look pretty good. I'm not to happy with the Qidi Tech 1 that I got, but I'm not sure if its just user error or the printer. I've seen some really good quality prints come out of it from other people. I've yet to have anything that I've been happy with. I tried making this dude earlier in PLA with Hatchbox black. Gave him a light sanding with some 220 grit on the really rough spots. (I didn't have anything lighter than that.) Then gave him a quick paint with some gray primer just to see what he'd look like. I'm not sure why the lines are so fat? I've just been using Flashprint for the most part. I tried using replicator and I hated the supports on it. https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/211527/151d76fe-c3fe-4a71-bd2b-482905dd5470/20180725_100318.jpg https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/211527/3131478d-0b0f-46ab-8ada-0819b6925fa8/20180725_115338.jpg
That looks quite nice to be honest!
Maybe I'm just being anal then. Everyone keeps telling me it looks really good. I still want to get a 0.2mm nozzle for it, though. I'm gonna try printing some stuff out in ABS next. I've had the printer for a few months now and I've never even tried it.
Well that's just great. Plopped in the TMC2130s, and I know they work, because before updating the firmware it moved the X-axis just fine (WAAAY too fast, though ), but now that it's updated with the proper settings enabled (as far as I'm aware) all the motor does is make noise (a fairly high-pitched ring) and it doesn't move at all. :/
I would bulk buy 0.2 nozzles, from my little experience they clog very easily. They do give you much nicer fine detail over 0.4 but you do have only quarter of the filament coming out so expect your print times to be at least 4 times. My new 0.2 nozzles so i'm back to printing minis again to order. Currently doing a 5.5 hour 25mm mini print of an elf ranger.
I am about 2 seconds away from throwing this cursed bastard machine into the dumpster and setting it on fire. I've lost count of the number of tutorials and wiring diagrams/configs I've tried to get these fucking Silent Stepsticks to fucking work, and nothing fucking works. If it isn't compiler errors, it's the motors not fucking moving. If they ARE moving, it's way too damn fast, and if it's neither, it's fucking driver errors.
Finally got the motors moving, but now sensorless homing doesn't work. At all. I've set it to be as sensitive as it could possible be, and nothing. :/
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