3D Printing Thread V2 - Making homemade spaghetti since 1981
289 replies, posted
If it's just regular Elmer's glue-stick, it should be fine. Does it wash off with water?
I used one of these that I had lying around since the end of high school
https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/483/bcaf01f5-e522-433a-8f62-d8c3597b9912/image.png
watch me shop for a replacement bed lol
ok it took a while but I finally got rid of it. I won't use that again for sure.
Everything I've found so far shows that it should be water-washable. Warm water gets most glue-stick off right quick, where-as I don't think alcohol does much to it (due to reduced water content).
If you can find it, get Elmer's "disappearing" glue stick. It turns purple when wet, which makes it easy to see where you've missed it when cleaning.
My last printer was a Printrbot Simple 1405, which is honestly a solid little dude for how much it cost. Now I kinda want to get back into printing, and am looking at CoreXY platforms using aluminum extrusions. Are there any decent expandable prebuilt frames out there, or should I just start designing my own?
I've heard good things about the CR-10 series from Creality, as well as the Ender3. Basically any printer that uses 2020/2040 extruded aluminium pieces should be easy to expand on, as there's tons of designs pre-made on Thingiverse for 2020/2040 extrusion.
I have the Ender-3 and it's a great budget printer assuming you are willing to invest the time to perfect it.
Glue stick is PVA so it's normally water soluble. Warm water!
I try to steer away from gluestick and other solvents. Focus on getting your levelling tight and right and you won't have issues. So far i've had great luck without it, I think it should be reserved for a last resort really.
I use gluestick on my glass plate pretty much all the time. Not really had any issues, and I've been doing it for over a year.
Since the printbed is detachable, I just rinse it in the sink now and then.
Sure, it works but i'd rather not make that mess if I don't have too. With proper setup I get fantastic adhesion without it.
In my case I wouldn't have needed any glue stick either if the generated gcode wasn't so stupid and went over the tiny already printed lines just to get from point A to B. This was a faster fix than trying to figure out how to fix this via the gcode, but I prefer to not do either really.
I think my nozzle has finally died, I've tried the cold pull + guitar strings method several times with acetone and some of the shit is just baked into the interior of the nozzle.
However I've learned something useful about my printer, if the heating element is smaller in diameter than the receiving hotend holder, just wrap aluminum foil around the heating element tightly and it'll make a snug fit into the hot end. No more having to print at hotter temperatures because of poor thermal conductivity.
Bulk buy nozzles from china and don't look back
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DL24HDY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Bam. (pretty good deal, I thought)
it is a good deal, I've paid 10€ for I think 15 pieces from 0.2mm up to 1mm and it just got shipped in some crappy plastic bag but it had a few odd ones like 0.25mm and 0.35mm which I have no idea why it exists
These ones are pretty nice, the plastic case was a nice touch, but they really packed them in there to get them to fit.
But each size of nozzle is packed in its own little plastic bag which is nice.
Doesn't ship everywhere, unfortunately.
today I created a nightmare
https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/619/f325b4ce-54f8-4d2a-b263-503d8a4172b3/KIRB.jpg
https://puu.sh/BfTzb.jpg
https://puu.sh/Bg0VN.jpg
http://puu.sh/BfZbi.jpg
Modular PS-Eye lens mounting system, because yes that's a thing we need.
So, I'm finally going to get around to installing those .2 nozzles I have.
Is there anything special I'm going to need to do with prints? I assume I'm going to need to slow them down, or something.
Make sure your filament is clean, no dust. Maybe make a filament cleaner to wipe off any dust before it enters the hot-end, there's a few designs on Thingiverse (though some just use pipe cleaner).
definitely slow it down.
.2mm is 4 times smaller than .4mm, so you should take this into consideration when you play with the speed settings.
I just halved the speed and changed the nozzle size in the slicer, though the layer height was set to 0.1-0.15mm as 0.2mm and above sometimes gave me some printing errors.
From what I understand, your layer height should never exceed your layer width.
Layer height should be somewhere between 25-75% of your nozzle width, nominally.
Installed the smaller nozzle. Printed out an Epic Scale Rhino from 40k which is in 6mm scale. Did one in the normal 0.4mm nozzle and it did pretty good, and then printed out another in the 0.2mm nozzle and it had some stringing issues on the tread on the front tank. It wasn't terrible, but certainly noticeable. I tried doing a 28mm model from the Heroforge website and it was doing good up until it got around the mid torso before it failed completely. Any ideas on how I could fix it?
I'm using Flashprint as the slicer. For the Rhino at 0.2mm scale I ran it at 0.08mm Layer Height / 0.20mm First Layer Height (default settings) and then I slowed the speed down by half with the Print Speed being at 25mm/s and travel speed at 35mm/s with the printing temp being 200c nozzle and platform 50c. (also default settings). Is it still a little to fast, or should I try adjusting the temps?
I picked up a really fucked up DaVinci 2.0 (had never been oiled or cleaned, and had been abused by an after school program) for $100.
I swapped out the nozzles for an e3d chimera, printed upgrades for all the broken/failing parts, used those to in turn print higher quality versions of themselves, installed a touch screen and onboard Repetier server instance and badda bing badda boom:
https://i.imgur.com/RMBTe1t.jpg
And here are the extruders, the final self-upgrade bit that I'm making (for now, at least). I'm really impressed at how I've been able to crank both the print speed and quality through the roof simultaneously with newer, lighter parts.
https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/249570/679fafc7-871c-427b-880e-e9fef37f9545/image.png
Possibly doing a print bed size upgrade soon if I can find a good price on a 200mm^2 heater and borosilicate plate.
I started with the Heroforge model again last night, used the same settings and kept a close eye on it. He finished, but he came out pretty stringy still.
https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/211527/5f9303b0-f08c-42e3-bf81-1e8bae0725d1/20180819_105343.jpg
This fucking shit-box is an endless source of head-aches.
Got it to finally print the yellow PETG JUST FINE.
Now it goes about a quarter of the way into the print and then fucking jams the extruder.
Getting really tired of fighting this thing.
Switched to the black Sunlu PETG, it jammed twice, then it finally started completing prints after I bumped the temperature up 5 degrees, but now when it finishes printing, it no longer:
1) Turns off the heaters in the hot-end and bed (!)
2) Doesn't move the nozzle out of the way (so now the ***HOT*** nozzle is just camping there on the part for however many hours it takes for me to get back from work/wake up)
3) Doesn't bring the bed forward
It used to do all of those things, but suddenly it's like "lol nah".
So it turns out I was mistaken: The yellow PETG I've been printing with is not from eSun, it's from WYZworks, bought from eBay.
So there you have it, that's the shit I've been having so many problems with.
Sorry, you need to Log In to post a reply to this thread.