3D Printing Thread V2 - Making homemade spaghetti since 1981
289 replies, posted
If you lived closer I'd love ro try it just to see how bad it really can be
Even when it prints it's finicky. Like, even if you get it to stick, there are occassional "gaps" in the outer-walls.
I just bought a roll of eSun's yellow PETG, according to the reviews it should be roughly the same color and if it's anything like the black and white eSun PETGs I have it'll print like a fuckin' dream.
But if you're serious, I'd say just get a roll off of eBay. It's only $25 for 2kg.
http://puu.sh/BmeKh.jpg
Should be just about finished now
Nothing like being sound asleep and being jarred awake by:
1) Sinus congestion (fuck allergy season, seriously)
2) The sound of pop-ting-cardboard-rattling-noises as one of your 25 drag-chain pieces pops off the bed and goes flying across the room.
I'm almost out of this black SunLu filament too, which sucks because it prints fucking fantastically. But the good news is there was a "limit 1" flash-sale or something on Amazon so I saved ~$5 on a new roll.
Even better news: The eSun yellow PETG is a damn-near perfect match in color of that nasty WYZWorks stuff. Gonna try some prints with it to see if it prints any better.
Has anyone had any experience with any of the Resin printers? I'm looking at purchasing this one for that sweet 28mm model making.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078N2TSYS/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
only 520 bucks? That seems way cheaper than I expected. I thought resin printers were generally more expensive? (Or maybe I'm confusing that with the overall cost of making resin prints)
The expensive ones rely on lasers and complicated mirror assemblies, the cheaper ones utilize LCD screens with UV backlights. Lasers are *technically* more precise, but the definition of modern LCDs give "well, perfect's close enough" results.
Resin, however, is expensive, and usually toxic until cured (and also smells bad).
The other ones I've seen are a grand plus, but I'm no stranger to working with resin.
I've been seeing a lot more people posting stuff on Thingiverse with that printer, all 28mm models and stuff. They look really good.
It's very good to see resin pronters drop in price.
I've actually got a co-worker fairly interested in the concept of resin printers after showing him how detailed they can be, as he's a model rail-roader and is appalled at the prices of the smaller-scale stuff.
So has anyone had any experience with these piezo-electric probes? They seem interesting, but details of accuracy seem to vary from person to person.
Even trying to dial in my 0.2mm nozzle, it isn't even coming close to the quality of the stuff from the resin printer.
Shit keeps stringing horribly.
I'm having an absolute horrible time with this 0.2mm nozzle. I can't get anything to come out even on a decent quality with the thing. I'm running it at 1/4th of the speed of my 0.4mm nozzle on the Flashprint high quality. (13mm/s print | 17mm/s travel) I can't get anything to come out looking that decent. It's having a horrible time bridging anything as well.
https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/211527/871269ef-434a-481d-b343-024402b2dde8/20180907_191357.jpg
https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/211527/b7eca8e5-303b-4941-bc75-916168e6565b/20180819_105343.jpg
When bridging, you generally want to move faster, as you want to pull the plastic taught as you bridge. I think Cura has settings that allow you to change printing speeds.
Turning the temperature down may help, as well. You're not moving as much plastic at 1/4th the speed with a 0.2mm nozzle, parts that small aren't going to have as much time to cool/will remelt when the nozzle comes near.
I've been using the auto supports. (It's why the back of the base is snapped.)
I ran the print at 200 nozzle and 50 base. Default temps again. Should I try cutting the base tempt down? I was worried about going underneath 200 with PLA.
Try bumping it down with small test prints by about 5 degrees until it struggles, then bump it up 2 degrees at a time. PLA's supposed to be "printable" between 180-210 IIRC, so if I'm not mistaken you can get pretty low with it.
I've always printed at 220c, which is the default on the FlashForge printers.
About to order a Prusa MK3 here within the next day or so.
What would you guys say are the most needed tools or best quality of life additions?
I’ve recently started a new job and they have an ultimaker 2+ sitting in a corner of the CAD room. My colleagues said it used to work and run perfectly before they updated the computers and now nobody got round to reinstalling the software. For an absolute beginner in 3D work and printing, what software would you recommend? I was considering sketchup, however I.T. didn’t want to install the latest cloud based version as they had already setup one drive and didn’t want to manage g-suite and google drive. Any good, “easy” to learn 3D software out there? I.T. did hint at possibly paying for a licence if it was one off and not subscription based. Fusion 360 seemed like a good choice, both for 2D and 3D but we’re not that rich.
I’ve worked with 2D cad programmes and laser cutters for the past 6 years so I’m hoping that creating basic 3D shapes is a matter of extruding from a 2D drawn outline? Don’t suppose there’s a 3D modelling software which imports dxf files for extruding and exporting into Cura for the ultimaker. Got a few wicked ground plans I want to turn into a printed model.
Lastly, are there any good maintenance guides or things I should be doing on a fortnightly or monthly basis? E.g. if the nozzle is clogged up, do you clean it with acetone like a laser cutter lens? Or do you just clean it as of when it needs cleaning. (Common sense.) Any tips on cleaning the glass bed as it looks a bit fucked. Ta.
Commercial work?
Fusion 360 is completely free for non-commercial purposes.
its for non commercial work. May well be looking at the wrong section of the autodesk site but it’s only free for 3 years which in respect, ain’t half bad. What happens after that? Guess it locks you out of the service?
You can renew it as many times as you want, iirc.
0.2 Nozzles can be tricky, they do like to partially clog. Your models do look much worse than mine were though so something is way off. Your PLA hasn't hasn't absorbed moisture has it?
I normally get stringing too but it's so fine it's more like thin hairs.
I've had good luck with the 3d tabletop profile for the Ender 3 / CR-10 as a base
https://www.3dprintedtabletop.com/resources/3d-printing-profiles/
https://puu.sh/BzT27.jpg
A fairly nice looking ruin model.
https://puu.sh/BA6Cd.jpg
Delving a bit further into simple electronics, this is the body of a 12v halogen flashlight using 8 x AA batteries in series (8 x 1.5v = 12v)
https://puu.sh/BBqi7.jpg
https://puu.sh/BBf2f.jpg
https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/490/353065e9-7760-48c6-952a-ae13959a7561/image.png
The PS-Eye IR camera body now has a MicroUSB port built-in, replacing the 2 meter long fixed USB cable which was quite a hassle.
Sorry for my horribly destroyed fingers :^)
Current project:
https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/132319/a7aee53b-8596-4109-833d-96c94ab6a73d/Head v4.png
Decided I wasn't happy with it and redid the whole head. I like this version a lot better, fixed a few mistakes I made when making the first one.
https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/132319/1cadc792-518b-4ff4-ba96-667868601d0f/Head (v6~recovered).png
So does anyone here know how to get rid of this unsightly seam on the side of the head?
https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/132319/2f57ad0c-aa82-474d-a3db-c25ba788121f/Head (v6~recovered)2.png
Is it in Fusion 360?
The seam is probably caused by a slight error in a sketch somewhere.
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