3D printer thread - what have you been printing? - Creationism Corner

Has anyone else had problems with Slic3r producing terrible Gcode? The models are manifold, I pulled them off of thingiverse, but sometimes the slice will come out completely wrong, most of the time taking the XY cross section sort of extruding it outwards, turning it into a weirdly shaped prism. It happened with the Uboat parts, as well as [url=http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:184594]this Messerschmitt[/url]

[QUOTE=joshjet;44184695]Has anyone else had problems with Slic3r producing terrible Gcode? The models are manifold, I pulled them off of thingiverse, but sometimes the slice will come out completely wrong, most of the time taking the XY cross section sort of extruding it outwards, turning it into a weirdly shaped prism. It happened with the Uboat parts, as well as [url=http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:184594]this Messerschmitt[/url][/QUOTE] Is it just some models, or sometimes? I mean, can you slice it once and have that problem, and then slice it again without changing anything and it comes out fine? also, do you have support material enabled?

Support material was enabled, and it always happens to the same models. It wasn't support material that was making it look like that though, I've printed a few of them off without noticing because I had visualization disabled.

snip - bad reading x1 I don't know what could be causing that sorry

I know this isn't the point of the thread but is it true that you can 3D print circuit boards and stuff? I totally want to get one so I can 3D Print cable management devices

[QUOTE=Nove;44193727]I know this isn't the point of the thread but is it true that you can 3D print circuit boards and stuff? I totally want to get one so I can 3D Print cable management devices[/QUOTE] There are several different approaches to using 3D printers to make circuit boards. There is conductive filament, but that's not good for much other than connecting LEDs. I saw someone using a regular FDM printer to print with tin solder, which was cool. I think someone also just used the print head like an etcher, but don't quote me on that one. Of course, the much more expensive multi-material printers can print circuits into the finished product, all in one go.

[QUOTE=frozensoda;44193769]There are several different approaches to using 3D printers to make circuit boards. There is conductive filament, but that's not good for much other than connecting LEDs. I saw someone using a regular FDM printer to print with tin solder, which was cool. I think someone also just used the print head like an etcher, but don't quote me on that one. Of course, the much more expensive multi-material printers can print circuits into the finished product, all in one go.[/QUOTE] Hmm. I think it's officially "the future" when we'll be able to 3D print a new computer

I'd kill for a 3D printer... And yet, i have no idea what i'd actually print.

[QUOTE=lekkimsm;44193847]I'd kill for a 3D printer... And yet, i have no idea what i'd actually print.[/QUOTE] Print iPhone cases, become rich

[QUOTE=Nove;44193727]I know this isn't the point of the thread but is it true that you can 3D print circuit boards and stuff? I totally want to get one so I can 3D Print cable management devices[/QUOTE] The easiest way to manufacture reasonable quality pcbs currently (in an automated fashion, I'd always reccomend the old fashioned way) is to make a quick and dirty 3 axis CNC router and route the top layer off copper clad board.

[QUOTE=Nove;44193862]Print iPhone cases, become rich[/QUOTE] I'd actually love a case for my phone (not iPhone) which had a dragon head or car or something in 3d on the back of it :v:

[QUOTE=Ldesu;44194426]I'd actually love a case for my phone (not iPhone) which had a dragon head or car or something in 3d on the back of it :v:[/QUOTE] For some reason I imagined a gargoyle coming out of the back of your fucking phone but it's a dragon Would work well as a stand, I guess?

[QUOTE=Nove;44194518]For some reason I imagined a gargoyle coming out of the back of your fucking phone but it's a dragon Would work well as a stand, I guess?[/QUOTE] Not like, stand out completely, I mean so you can feel it at least. Like a picture, but not completely flat.

[QUOTE=Ldesu;44194592]Not like, stand out completely, I mean so you can feel it at least. Like a picture, but not completely flat.[/QUOTE] [url]http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:268604[/url] [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/x7sPrje.png[/IMG] [t]http://i.imgur.com/Q27k6kw.png[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/8v9jy9K.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/ufQzisi.jpg[/t] I should have chosen a different image to start with, but hey I just went from concept to object in a little over an hour. I love 3D printing. Some of the pieces weren't connected to the rest of the model, I didn't catch it before I started. That's why it looks weird.

eugh, completely open port/button holes. 0/10

[QUOTE=Nove;44197665]eugh, completely open port/button holes. 0/10[/QUOTE] I'm guessing you haven't tried printing unsupported ledges :smile:

[t]http://i.imgur.com/DRp336U.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/l40yzuw.jpg[/t] Need a hand? I did! My wife wanted me to make her a hand that can hold her tattoo machine. This one works great, but it was WAY bigger than I thought it was going to be. Thing is HUGE. There were a couple cracks that formed, I had to fix with my liquid ABS mix. [url]http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31331[/url]

The overhang on that pinky finger looks pretty insane, I'd always thought you were limited to 45 degrees or so with normal 3d printers!

[QUOTE=Lapsus;44206367]The overhang on that pinky finger looks pretty insane, I'd always thought you were limited to 45 degrees or so with normal 3d printers![/QUOTE] I was pretty surprised as well, but it seems that there are modelers who just 'get it' when it comes to the limits. I can think of a few who are just really super good at that. speaking of that i've been forgetting to add the links, i'll go do that.

frozensoda with which heatbed and hotend temperature are you printing? I have problems printing with ABS. PLA worked just fine without any trouble but if i use ABS the edges of the print warps and it fails.

[QUOTE=opti2000;44207880]frozensoda with which heatbed and hotend temperature are you printing? I have problems printing with ABS. PLA worked just fine without any trouble but if i use ABS the edges of the print warps and it fails.[/QUOTE] I print at 195C, but solidoodle misrepresents and there's no real way to know what temperature it is other than "it averages about 30 degrees higher than it's reporting" My bed is at 100C and I had to install a secondary heater to make that possible. I just got one of those candle/drink warmer hot plates from the dollar store for $3 and disassembled it and put the small flat heating element under the aluminum build plate between the insulation. I use hairspray on glass at 100C and I haven't had any problems since I started doing it this way.

Hairspray? Never heard before of that method need to try that. I also found something interesting. If you set in slic3r in the skirt options the millimeter distance to 0 (zero) with 5-20 loops you can create a brim that keeps your object on the spot and prevents curling or warping because it has a bgger surface. Like this for example. [t]http://bmimg.nicovideo.jp/image/ch2562521/21401/208a3456c1a962c693d5717ac4bf9961d3b16465.png[/t] Just found this tip in the net and i'll try this with my next print :)

[QUOTE=opti2000;44208063]Hairspray? Never heard before of that method need to try that. I also found something interesting. If you set in slic3r in the skirt options the millimeter distance to 0 (zero) with 5-20 loops you can create a brim that keeps your object on the spot and prevents curling or warping because it has a bgger surface. Like this for example. [t]http://bmimg.nicovideo.jp/image/ch2562521/21401/208a3456c1a962c693d5717ac4bf9961d3b16465.png[/t] Just found this tip in the net and i'll try this with my next print :)[/QUOTE] Yes, I always print with a brim. I like it much better than the raft as it's easier to clean off. Slic3r has a setting for brim. [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/gDcbA1c.png[/IMG] 11mm is kind of large, but for 15 hour prints it's a small amount of plastic for extra peace of mind.

[QUOTE=opti2000;44208063]Hairspray? Never heard before of that method need to try that. I also found something interesting. If you set in slic3r in the skirt options the millimeter distance to 0 (zero) with 5-20 loops you can create a brim that keeps your object on the spot and prevents curling or warping because it has a bgger surface. Like this for example. [t]http://bmimg.nicovideo.jp/image/ch2562521/21401/208a3456c1a962c693d5717ac4bf9961d3b16465.png[/t] Just found this tip in the net and i'll try this with my next print :)[/QUOTE] I've never found the brim options to be particularly useful. In my experience, the brim will actually often start to peel up before the part even reaches it, rendering it useless. If you're running a solidoodle, the aluminum plates tend to warp super easily, so you ought to just get a piece of glass fitted to the bed. Hairspray is pretty useful, as is ABS dissolved in acetone and spread on the print bed, but I've found that you have the best results with a combonation. Put down a layer of hairspray, then the ABS slurry, then more hairspray. You'll never have an object peel again. I mean, you'll never be able to get it off the bed, but it won't peel. I would suggest a chisel (seriously). [editline]12th March 2014[/editline] Of course, I had only tried a brim when I was printing on kapton tape directly on the aluminum.

[QUOTE=joshjet;44208141]I've never found the brim options to be particularly useful. In my experience, the brim will actually often start to peel up before the part even reaches it, rendering it useless. If you're running a solidoodle, the aluminum plates tend to warp super easily, so you ought to just get a piece of glass fitted to the bed. Hairspray is pretty useful, as is ABS dissolved in acetone and spread on the print bed, but I've found that you have the best results with a combonation. Put down a layer of hairspray, then the ABS slurry, then more hairspray. You'll never have an object peel again. I mean, you'll never be able to get it off the bed, but it won't peel. I would suggest a chisel (seriously). [editline]12th March 2014[/editline] Of course, I had only tried a brim when I was printing on kapton tape directly on the aluminum.[/QUOTE] That's funny you say that, because I've found the brim to be extremely useful. I think the higher temperature is a huge factor. IIRC soliddoodle's stock bed heater maxes out at 84C Speaking of slic3r, it looks like a new version came out and it's a pretty big update. Does anyone know how I can update the slic3r that repetier-host uses? [url]http://slic3r.org/[/url] I googled a bit but either I suck or there's not a lot of info about it

Actually i just used a glue stick before to print with ABS and prevent the warping. That worked like a charm on a glassplate I just want to find more possibilities for adhering wow? again a new slic3r update? EDIT: Updating your slic3r version is really easy. Download the zip for your operating system [URL="http://slic3r.org/download"]from here[/URL] and just copy and paste the Slic3r folder inside the .zip into your repetier folder. Replace everything and you are done with updating to the newest slic3r version. :wink: click on the links on the right sides for the release notes.

[QUOTE=opti2000;44208198]Actually i just used a glue stick before to print with ABS and prevent the warping. That worked like a charm on a glassplate I just want to find more possibilities for adhering wow? again a new slic3r update? EDIT: Updating your slic3r version is really easy. Download the zip for your operating system [URL="http://slic3r.org/download"]from here[/URL] and just copy and paste the Slic3r folder inside the .zip into your repetier folder. Replace everything and you are done with updating to the newest slic3r version. :wink: click on the links on the right sides for the release notes.[/QUOTE] I went on the soliforum and it seems like upgrading to repetier-host 0.9.5 is worth it, and it comes with the latest slic3r. I'll just have to do the settings manually since this isn't the solidoodle version that is pre-configured, but that's not a big deal. I hope this version handles support material better than the current one I'm using.

I tried printing with a brim and it works great. But only problem now is that my print brakes apart? It looks like the ABS layers peel of. The piece is around 2-3mm thick and this never happened with PLA. [t]http://abload.de/img/img_10720aaf6.jpg[/t]

[QUOTE=opti2000;44214099]I tried printing with a brim and it works great. But only problem now is that my print brakes apart? It looks like the ABS layers peel of. The piece is around 2-3mm thick and this never happened with PLA. [t]http://abload.de/img/img_10720aaf6.jpg[/t][/QUOTE] I'd turn your set screw just 1/8th of a turn to bring the bed closer to the nozzle, do another relevel check and set it to half the layer height you are currently using, if that fixes it post a pic. I use 0.3 for the first layer and 0.1 for the rest of the layers. It looks like the layers separated because there wasn't enough adhesion, and a lower layer height helps with that.

[QUOTE=frozensoda;44210570]I went on the soliforum and it seems like upgrading to repetier-host 0.9.5 is worth it, and it comes with the latest slic3r. I'll just have to do the settings manually since this isn't the solidoodle version that is pre-configured, but that's not a big deal. I hope this version handles support material better than the current one I'm using.[/QUOTE] I ought to do this, maybe it'll fix my slicing problems.