3D printer thread - what have you been printing? - Creationism Corner

Actually I'm getting the feeling that everything is designed for the E3Dv5 and not the v6.

[QUOTE=3Dprinter;45560938]Yeah Solidoodle is really inconsistent with which parts they put in the machines. If you bring it up to their support they say something along the lines of "we're always improving the design and the competitive nature of the 3D printer market means that our parts list is a trade secret" so they won't even tell you what kind of parts they use if you ask, most times.[/QUOTE] That's probably just code for "I can't be fucked to look it up"

They did switch to a single-board sanguilulo or however its spelt so you can't swap out the stepper drivers. Idiot proofing I guess. Although as I look deeper into this I think I may just build a whole new printer. RAMPS 1.4 (chinese-arduino Mega and stepper motors included) from sainsmart, some extruded aluminum v/t-slot for progressive upgrades (swap out the short x-axis beams should I want an extra print head etc.

Be careful with your E3D hotends... Make sure to sufficiently cool the underside of the lowest fin on the heatsink which should also cool the heatbreak enough. A lot of people (including myself) has had problems with PLA printing where not enough cooling causes the plastic to melt prematurely and resulting in a jam.

out of all things that have been causing complications for me, that luckily has not been one of them.

At least the E3D is designed to be easily disassembled and reassembled. Also I wish slic3r had support for print parameters [B]after[/B] the raft.

I am going to buy a small aluminium mill to fabricate parts for my printer, and for some other upcoming projects I have. looking at one of these [url]http://carbide3d.com/[/url] since it's gonna be a while before I have the money, by the time they are ready, I will be as well.

Trying out some Sainsmart black ABS as opposed to my usual [url=http://www.amazon.ca/JET-1-75mm-Filament-2-2lbs-Printer/dp/B00F1MR64K/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1407646539&sr=8-7&keywords=jet+abs]JET[/url] filaments. I'd say the diameter of filament varies more wildly (+- ~0.06) than the JET (+- ~0.03), and its shinier. Waiting for a completed print, but so far it is displaying less bed-warp and is super glossy. Lets see if there is any layer seperation on the upper layers like my green ABS.

I have been ordering from [URL="http://inventables.com"]inventables[/URL] because they are very close to where I live and I find the quality is excellent. Nothing sucks more then losing the last 1/4th of your spool because they don't take care in winding and it becomes a ball of mom's spaghetti they also have a [URL="https://www.inventables.com/technologies/desktop-3d-carving-cnc-mill-kit-shapeoko-2"]CNC mill kit[/URL] that doesn't look too bad, but I've heard mixed reviews about it's actual ability to cut metal. I'll just be using it for aluminium so I'll be sure to check out more videos and more reviews to see if it can handle what I'm planning

[QUOTE=3Dprinter;45647305]they also have a [URL="https://www.inventables.com/technologies/desktop-3d-carving-cnc-mill-kit-shapeoko-2"]CNC mill kit[/URL] that doesn't look too bad, but I've heard mixed reviews about it's actual ability to cut metal. I'll just be using it for aluminium so I'll be sure to check out more videos and more reviews to see if it can handle what I'm planning[/QUOTE] i need money so bad

I'm getting some weird melty layers on one my corners, and only there. If I could remember which way was +X and +Y, I'd be able to say which corner exactly, but I don't. Any ideas on culprits? I'm printing on a Printrbot 1405 XL at .3 mm layer height, 120% first layer, 15 mm/s perimeter speed, and using Printrbot 1.75mm PLA on blue painter's tape. If it was lifting, I'd say cooling, but it's doing the opposite. [editline]12th August 2014[/editline] It's also only about the first three layers, then it shapes up and prints great (surprised me, since I got a lot of static from engineering friends who said the printrbot would never print well. Eat my shockingly well-printed wiener, engineering friends).

This thread keeps dropping from my read list. I need to start printing again, my printer is all stacked high with stuff. What a waste. I think I'm going to try for that ranger helmet that I got the files from a while back.

Anyone have recommendations for slicing? Slic3r comes with Repetier Host and it works well for uniform solids, but both KISSlicer and Slic3r sliced the printrbot fan shroud weirdly, so there's lots of strings crossing over and the like. Also: I have about a dozen calibration cubes on my desk in various stages of completion. This is the life.

[QUOTE=ramirez!;45674927]Anyone have recommendations for slicing? Slic3r comes with Repetier Host and it works well for uniform solids, but both KISSlicer and Slic3r sliced the printrbot fan shroud weirdly, so there's lots of strings crossing over and the like. Also: I have about a dozen calibration cubes on my desk in various stages of completion. This is the life.[/QUOTE] You might have it set to display printer paths instead of just the solid. Check your settings. If not, it's likely support material generated to keep the build stable, and it should easily be removed. [editline]13th August 2014[/editline] Also can you describe or supply a picture of what you mean by "melty layers"

I wish I could get KISSlicer to work, but I can't figure out how to make "styles", it keeps reverting to the pre-generated sample settings.

[t]http://i.imgur.com/gHMsKDN.jpg[/t] Best photo I could get - The left side is the -Y direction, which I think was the problem. The Simple I have only has one side of support for the Y carriage. I zip-tied a spare large Kysan motor I have to the other end and it appears to have cleared up. In other events, anyone want to split the price on a box of wide masking tape?

[QUOTE=ramirez!;45675580][t]http://i.imgur.com/gHMsKDN.jpg[/t] Best photo I could get - The left side is the -Y direction, which I think was the problem. The Simple I have only has one side of support for the Y carriage. I zip-tied a spare large Kysan motor I have to the other end and it appears to have cleared up. In other events, anyone want to split the price on a box of wide masking tape?[/QUOTE] Are you talking about for bed covering? Because I wouldn't do that. If you have a heated bed, I would get a piece of glass cut to the size of your print bed and cover it with Garnier Fructis hairspray #5. It should be enough to keep your prints from lifting. I don't know why that particular hairspray works so well, but it does. If that doesn't work, I just went with the nuclear option of an acetone ABS slurry+hairspray layer combination. Spray the hairspray on the bed when it's heated, let it solidify, then put down the ABS layer. If you do it while it's hot, the acetone will evaporate creating little tiny little bubbles, making the surface much rougher. This combined with the hairspray keeping the ABS slurry layer on the bed, and the print fusing with the ABS in the slurry, means if that doesn't keep it down, nothing will. I warn you though, if you choose this option, make sure you only do it on glass, and buy a chisel. It's the only way of cleaning the layer (and the print) off the glass. [editline]13th August 2014[/editline] Also your prints are going to be [I]crazy[/I] hard to get off, so only do this if you keep getting curling no matter what you do. It tends to mess up the bottom of the object, because the ABS layer will stick to it. You can take that layer off with the chisel, but you have to be careful not to take away the bottom layers of the object too.

Hey guys, just curious. What kind of machine would you need to be able to create plastic army men scaled figures with nice definition to be used for mold making?

An expensive one. The levels of detail we can get on these things are amazing, but there are still major problems with stuff that small, even on new hobbyist printers. It really depends on the model though, I managed to print off some fallout stuff on like an inch, inch and a half scale and it worked out decently well. You would definitely want to clean it up if you were doing molds though. Anything thin (gun barrels, etc) is going to be a massive pain in the ass. [editline]13th August 2014[/editline] I have a relatively inexpensive printer, a solidoodle 3 ($800), but the quality of my machine can be pretty easily matched on a solidoodle 2 I've heard, which is about $600. Never buy anything from Makerbot, they're overpriced to all hell.

[QUOTE=joshjet;45678634]An expensive one. The levels of detail we can get on these things are amazing, but there are still major problems with stuff that small, even on new hobbyist printers. It really depends on the model though, I managed to print off some fallout stuff on like an inch, inch and a half scale and it worked out decently well. You would definitely want to clean it up if you were doing molds though Anything thin (gun barrels, etc) is going to be a massive pain in the ass. [editline]13th August 2014[/editline] I have a relatively inexpensive printer, a solidoodle 3 ($800), but the quality of my machine can be pretty easily matched on a solidoodle 2 I've heard, which is about $600. Never buy anything from Makerbot, they're overpriced to all hell.[/QUOTE] What about the Form 1 printer? That looks like it fits the bill. Do you know anything about that?

[QUOTE=Ajacks;45678690]What about the Form 1 printer? That looks like it fits the bill. Do you know anything about that?[/QUOTE] I looked it up, that's a UV resin printer, whereas pretty much everyone here uses ABS/PLA extrusion. You would very likely be able to get better resolution, but the printer itself is 3.3K USD and the solution that you use in place of ABS plastic goes for $150 a bottle. You'd get better resolution, and it might just be feasible to use those prints for molds, but it's one hell of an investment to find out. I'd see if I could find anyone with that printer, no one here has one I think. [editline]13th August 2014[/editline] Depending on how many models you're doing, it's probably a good idea to just get it done from a 3D printing service. It's gonna be much cheaper than spending three and a half thousand dollars on a printer that's expensive as all hell to run. [editline]13th August 2014[/editline] If you could supply me with models I could help you out more, maybe even do a test run. I've been itching to print something out anyway.

[QUOTE=joshjet;45678634]An expensive one. The levels of detail we can get on these things are amazing, but there are still major problems with stuff that small, even on new hobbyist printers. It really depends on the model though, I managed to print off some fallout stuff on like an inch, inch and a half scale and it worked out decently well. You would definitely want to clean it up if you were doing molds though. Anything thin (gun barrels, etc) is going to be a massive pain in the ass. [editline]13th August 2014[/editline] I have a relatively inexpensive printer, a solidoodle 3 ($800), but the quality of my machine can be pretty easily matched on a solidoodle 2 I've heard, which is about $600. Never buy anything from Makerbot, they're overpriced to all hell.[/QUOTE] Actually, looking at Solidoodle's site: the Solidoodle 4 is now $600. I knew the 2 and 3s were EOL based on the amount of sales they had, but holy crap that is a massive drop in price for the 4.

[QUOTE=joshjet;45678448]Are you talking about for bed covering? Because I wouldn't do that. If you have a heated bed, I would get a piece of glass cut to the size of your print bed and cover it with Garnier Fructis hairspray #5. It should be enough to keep your prints from lifting. I don't know why that particular hairspray works so well, but it does. If that doesn't work, I just went with the nuclear option of an acetone ABS slurry+hairspray layer combination. Spray the hairspray on the bed when it's heated, let it solidify, then put down the ABS layer. If you do it while it's hot, the acetone will evaporate creating little tiny little bubbles, making the surface much rougher. This combined with the hairspray keeping the ABS slurry layer on the bed, and the print fusing with the ABS in the slurry, means if that doesn't keep it down, nothing will. I warn you though, if you choose this option, make sure you only do it on glass, and buy a chisel. It's the only way of cleaning the layer (and the print) off the glass. [editline]13th August 2014[/editline] Also your prints are going to be [I]crazy[/I] hard to get off, so only do this if you keep getting curling no matter what you do. It tends to mess up the bottom of the object, because the ABS layer will stick to it. You can take that layer off with the chisel, but you have to be careful not to take away the bottom layers of the object too.[/QUOTE] Prints aren't lifting though - the PLA basically welds itself to the tape, it's actually a little annoying.

[QUOTE=ramirez!;45682283]Prints aren't lifting though - the PLA basically welds itself to the tape, it's actually a little annoying.[/QUOTE] I'd still swap in a glass plate on top of your current bed, unless it's not heated, it's a lot less annoying than constantly reapplying tape.. Is it heated?

Eventually I'll be swapping for a 15x15" borosilicate plate with a heater underneath, but I've got a bit more to do before I can fit that.

Glow in the dark filament arrived. Pics to come

[QUOTE=3Dprinter;45686798]Glow in the dark filament arrived. Pics to come[/QUOTE] Glow in the dark is so much fun! I got some a while back and made a nice skull about the size of a closed fist.

[t]http://i.imgur.com/sZPJX8m.jpg[/t] So this happened.

[QUOTE=ramirez!;45695214][t]http://i.imgur.com/sZPJX8m.jpg[/t] So this happened.[/QUOTE] Happened to me, biggest reason I swapped to an E3D was so I can perform maintenance/throw it in an acetone bath.

I was looking at those, since the PB replacement is fifty or sixty bucks and likely prone to the same issue. Do you know if there are .15 or .20mm nozzles for the E3D? I looked around a bit, but I didn't find any.