[QUOTE=ramirez!;45695873]I was looking at those, since the PB replacement is fifty or sixty bucks and likely prone to the same issue. Do you know if there are .15 or .20mm nozzles for the E3D? I looked around a bit, but I didn't find any.[/QUOTE]
[url=http://www.filastruder.com/collections/e3d-spare-parts-and-accessories/products/e3d-spare-nozzle-v6]0.25mm and up I'm afraid[/url]
Are you sure you've been printing with a 0.15 nozzle? That seems really really really small.
[QUOTE=ramirez!;45695214][t]http://i.imgur.com/sZPJX8m.jpg[/t]
So this happened.[/QUOTE]
Just out of curiosity, have you ever tried to print anything from DEFCAD?
[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;45695924][url=http://www.filastruder.com/collections/e3d-spare-parts-and-accessories/products/e3d-spare-nozzle-v6]0.25mm and up I'm afraid[/url]
Are you sure you've been printing with a 0.15 nozzle? That seems really really really small.[/QUOTE]
I was printing with a .25mm nozzle, and getting great results, but I've also got a .2 and .15mm nozzle on the way. Unfortunately, PB's Ubis hot end and the E3D hot end don't share nozzles. It would be neat if I could just have those sizes drilled into E3D blanks, but I guess they don't sell those.
[QUOTE=3Dprinter;45695950]Just out of curiosity, have you ever tried to print anything from DEFCAD?[/QUOTE]
I had to google what that was, so I'd say that's a negatory sky captain.
Just got my PrintrBot Simple Metal yesterday.
The Kit went together way easier than I expected. Didn't have any problems with the instructions.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/2XlcUVj.jpg[/IMG]
Here's some pictures of the first couple of prints.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/stiCQ7l.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/NdZfz0Q.jpg[/IMG]
Oh wow, that ain't half bad
My biggest issue with Printrbots is I don't like how the Z-axis supports the X-axis.
Although I'm not sure what kind of counter weight they have.
Since you probably didn't get the heated bed, I'm impressed by the quality of those PLA overhangs.
PLA overhangs always spaghetti for me, unlike ABS.
What is the size of the small bust?
[QUOTE=Ajacks;45702411]What is the size of the small bust?[/QUOTE]
~1.5cm
[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;45701548]My biggest issue with Printrbots is I don't like how the Z-axis supports the X-axis.
Although I'm not sure what kind of counter weight they have.
Since you probably didn't get the heated bed, I'm impressed by the quality of those PLA overhangs.
PLA overhangs always spaghetti for me, unlike ABS.[/QUOTE]
I was also surprised how well overhangs looked. I guess I got lucky with the temperature/speed settings.
I'm thinking of getting a 3d printer myself. I have looked at the Prusa i3, mostly because of the cost. Is that a good choice for the first printer? I'm looking to spend no more than 420 Euros. Also, has anyone ordered anything from this site [url]http://3dprinterczar.com/product-category/3dprinters/[/url] ?
[QUOTE=Jalcober;45703153]~1.5cm
I was also surprised how well overhangs looked. I guess I got lucky with the temperature/speed settings.[/QUOTE]
Do you think with that you could get a semi-accurate print of a plastic toy soldier sized figure?
[QUOTE=alexaz;45718997]I'm thinking of getting a 3d printer myself. I have looked at the Prusa i3, mostly because of the cost. Is that a good choice for the first printer? I'm looking to spend no more than 420 Euros. Also, has anyone ordered anything from this site [url]http://3dprinterczar.com/product-category/3dprinters/[/url] ?[/QUOTE]
My plans for the printer I'm printing off my printer are going to be based on the Prusa i3 if that helps at all. Either the Prusa i3 or a reprappro.com kit would be my choice.
[QUOTE=Ajacks;45719034]Do you think with that you could get a semi-accurate print of a plastic toy soldier sized figure?[/QUOTE]
We should all print the same model to compare.
[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;45719082]My plans for the printer I'm printing off my printer are going to be based on the Prusa i3 if that helps at all. Either the Prusa i3 or a reprappro.com kit would be my choice.
We should all print the same model to compare.[/QUOTE]
I would be extremely interested in seeing the results, I'm sure there is a free army man print available.
I mounted a black light on my printer facing the bed and spool, I guess they charge the phosphorescent chemicals in the glow in the dark filament, but it definitely looks awesome
Hi guys,
So for next years Gamescom i will cosplay as a Tunnel Snake from Fallout 3, most of the costume is doable except one critical part and that is the pip-boy 3000. Now i do got the [URL="http://ytec3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Pip-Boy-3000-STL.zip"]designs[/URL] but i know absolutely zero about 3D printing except that its out there and some incredible shit is being made with it like this pip-boy 3000.
This model was done by a UP! Plus 3D printer from PP3DP, does what printer you use matter? I guess it should be from something which can process pretty sturdy material.
The biggest problem might even be printing since i don't own a 3D printer, is there any company that lets you send files to them and they send the model back? Or does anyone in this thread wish to print this out and send it to me? (Paying for expenses of course)
[video=youtube;-DZEGLmWa2A]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-DZEGLmWa2A[/video]
[editline]20th August 2014[/editline]
More details about this can be found here [url]http://ytec3d.com/pip-boy/[/url]
Shapeways does pretty high quality models, but it gets expensive when they get big. Something like that pip boy seems like it'd go for around 100-200 bucks, but you'd have to put the model in their system to be sure. I'd be willing to do the model for you for a decent price, but you might want to wait for someone in europe. The type of printer doesn't matter as much for that model, as there really aren't that many small features on it, and you'll be doing a lot of work post anyway.
[editline]20th August 2014[/editline]
Pretty much all consumer printers use plastic extrusion, either ABS (the stuff that legos are made of), or PLA, a slightly weaker biodegradable plastic with a lower melting temperature. Both plastics are pretty sturdy. There are also printers that use UV curing resins, but those are much less common and much more expensive.
I'd recommend you build it out of ABS as its lighter. It also does better prints with the trade-off that its more sensitive to variations in temperature.
As it cools ABS has a tendency to shrink, as more layers are introduced you get a temperature gradient that results in parts curling up on themselves. My printer is sitting infront of a drafty window, occasionally the drafts cause the top-most layer to start shrinking. If I put the case that came with it on I'd imagine that wouldn't be an issue.
You might try [url]http://makexyz.com[/url]
They have that exact pipboy model on their front page :v:
[url]http://www.makexyz.com/store/pip-boy-3000-dd43d7bf6efe8792c05327dc29399bf4[/url]
[editline]21st August 2014[/editline]
I hate it when I over/under tighten my tension arm.
im printing darkrp money
[t]http://i.imgur.com/UQuK02R.jpg[/t][t]http://i.imgur.com/Hz8HihD.jpg[/t][t]http://i.imgur.com/N4AtS9z.jpg[/t][t]http://i.imgur.com/MV3bQhV.jpg[/t]
Left: Printed with case on. Right: Printed with case removed.
You can see how much layer peel I had with what I'm attributing to cold drafts from my window.
that might explain some issues with my printer, seeing how the window opens facing it's direction.
I'm heading to 3Dprintshow expo in London on 4th of September. Does anyone want me to look into anything particular while there for them? I will bring a camera and take a lot of pictures while I'm there.
That MakeXYZ site is pretty great, I've put my info in there, I wonder if anyone is going to actually send me models.
[QUOTE=Buck.;45776242]I'm heading to 3Dprintshow expo in London on 4th of September. Does anyone want me to look into anything particular while there for them? I will bring a camera and take a lot of pictures while I'm there.[/QUOTE]
Look into the tolerances of their machines. When I measure something, then put those measurements into a model I usually add 0.1-0.2mm to the outside of holes. For instance I make my M3 screw holes 3.1mm. I'd assume it has to do with the number and width of my perimeters but I'm not sure how to go about fixing it.
[QUOTE=joshjet;45777692]That MakeXYZ site is pretty great, I've put my info in there, I wonder if anyone is going to actually send me models.[/QUOTE]
I've gotten like 8 people but a lot of them are just like "I want a life size model of the statue of liberty, and I need you to model it and print it for $7"
Any tips on eliminating the stringy stuff that happens when the extruder is moved over a different part of the model?
Also: Do any of you use Maya? I'm having an extremely frustrating error where even the most basic of cubes results in a non-manifold warning in Repetier Host, even after using cleanup functions.
[QUOTE=ramirez!;45782485]Any tips on eliminating the stringy stuff that happens when the extruder is moved over a different part of the model?[/quote]
Increase your retraction settings. Be careful though, PLA is a cloggy bugger.
[QUOTE=ramirez!;45782485]Any tips on eliminating the stringy stuff that happens when the extruder is moved over a different part of the model?[/QUOTE]
What firmware are you using? Because if you have the support for it, firmware retraction is the king of fixing string. You set it to retract a large distance, reducing nozzle pressure to zero, but the return from retraction isn't the same speed so it will get back to where it was without causing jamming issues.
Got new filament! Here are some more prints.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/uvglGlq.png[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/5l9kQri.png[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/2H43ABD.png[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/b59XEGd.png[/IMG]
Tell me your secrets!
What are your settings!
[editline]25th August 2014[/editline]
And as an aside, who is your filament supplier?
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3D printer thread - what have you been printing?
