3D printer thread - what have you been printing? - Creationism Corner

Given that a 3D printer is nothing but a precision hot glue gun on a gantry to begin with... Build a 3D printer out of a glue gun!

hotend wires need resoldering. Only work when I hold them in a certain position. Oh well, only one problem [I][U][B]SO FAR[/B][/U][/I] [sp]I'm knocking furiously on wood[/sp] [editline]10th September 2014[/editline] MY MERGE

Don't worry, my extruder fan wires also need resoldering. [editline]9th September 2014[/editline] Also I haven't removed the PLA clog yet because I moved.

A bit late on this but here are some imgur albums of 3Dprintshow London 2014 that I took. Some cool things there. Machines: [URL="http://imgur.com/a/MGGPy"]BigRep[/URL] Fun Idea but takes weeks to print large objects and the quality is pretty poor. [URL="http://imgur.com/a/wge2Z"]Formlabs[/URL] Hands down the best quality of any printer. [URL="http://imgur.com/a/xCDl7"]Kora[/URL] Very good build quality, designed by ex car manufacturing guys. [URL="http://imgur.com/a/FjLjq"]Makerbot[/URL] [URL="http://imgur.com/a/xKAnv"]Ultimaker[/URL] [URL="http://imgur.com/a/re5ZI"]Other printers[/URL] Prints: [URL="http://imgur.com/a/YwDtH"]Misc prints[/URL] [URL="http://imgur.com/a/rnoSe"]Architectural[/URL] [URL="http://imgur.com/a/nJssO"]Artistic[/URL] [URL="http://imgur.com/a/pOnk2"]Colour prints[/URL] [URL="http://imgur.com/a/AUwWr"]Dr. Who Cyberman[/URL] [URL="http://imgur.com/a/KWsSX"]Large things[/URL] [URL="http://imgur.com/a/4YsgA"]Medical[/URL] [URL="http://imgur.com/a/XjOlg"]Metals[/URL] [URL="http://imgur.com/a/z76Qu"]Robots/Drones[/URL] [URL="http://imgur.com/a/uNDj6"]Samurai suits[/URL] [URL="http://imgur.com/a/u8e8M"]Sharebot Drone[/URL] [URL="http://imgur.com/a/yPT7G"]Star Lord Guardians of the Galaxy hero mask prop[/URL] [URL="http://imgur.com/a/ZP4bI"]New storm-trooper helmet concept[/URL]

Running my first print on new machine now. Oh boy, we've got some work to do alright... [editline]10th September 2014[/editline] the bane of my existence, z-artifacts from wobble or who knows the fuck what is GONE. Beuatiful layers that line up soooo nice c: Need a fan though, have z skipping, a hotend with fraying insulation, and a bed thats as level as a gravel road. All far more fixable than mysterious z axis issues though! I am unbelievably pleased!

Man I'd love to get into 3D Printing but I can't afford a printer and I have no idea how to do 3d modeling

[QUOTE=Telepethi;45951897]Man I'd love to get into 3D Printing but I can't afford a printer and I have no idea how to do 3d modeling[/QUOTE] You don't really need to know how to make models. There are thousands of models you can download and print right away online. However, if you want something custom, you can use Autodesk's 123D, its so simple even a toddler could do it. I was scared by printer prices too at first, but went full-on fuck it mode, saved up some money and got the cheapest kit I could find. Its a Prusa i3 from Replikeo.com. Ended up with a total of 430 Euros including customs tax and 4 day shipping from China. I'm enjoying it alot, mostly the adjusting/tinkering part that gives you so much pleasure as you improve your prints with every little tweak. It has become a hobby, and a fun one too.

[url]http://makezine.com/2014/09/17/dremel-3d-printer-idea-builder/[/url] As much as I love my dremel, this is pretty bad for the price. You would have imagined dremel would make ABS a priority because it can be machined with their tools.

From Imgur: [B]My father got a 3D printer and created this. So proud[/B] [t]http://i.imgur.com/OyKDP3Q.jpg[/t]

[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;46008318][url]http://makezine.com/2014/09/17/dremel-3d-printer-idea-builder/[/url] As much as I love my dremel, this is pretty bad for the price. You would have imagined dremel would make ABS a priority because it can be machined with their tools.[/QUOTE] You would have imagined dremel would have made [I]a damn CNC machine[/I] considering their tools are used in the majority of DIY CNC projects and they're well suited for machining materials.

has one of you got experience with 3D printed drones (multicopters)? I've been thinking of printing [URL="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34552"]this model[/URL] using PLA as I've got my stuff configured for that right now. will the plastic be sturdy enough to take a few bumps?

PLA is pretty tough, and since it's just the frame I wouldn't worry about it too much. It is, however, slightly sensitive to sunlight and moisture, so definitely paint and seal it if you're concerned. Out of curiousity - What infill pattern do you guys use? I've been using 20% rectilinear with good results, but a lot of people recommend hexagonal infill. I don't like using that because it seems like it would put undue stress on the X belt, so I'm just curious if there are any advantages to it.

it looks fancy with clear plastic I don't really know any benefits of it. I've been printing with it as it was a standard setting, but I should really look into other infills.

[QUOTE=ramirez!;46066400]PLA is pretty tough, and since it's just the frame I wouldn't worry about it too much. It is, however, slightly sensitive to sunlight and moisture, so definitely paint and seal it if you're concerned. Out of curiousity - What infill pattern do you guys use? I've been using 20% rectilinear with good results, but a lot of people recommend hexagonal infill. I don't like using that because it seems like it would put undue stress on the X belt, so I'm just curious if there are any advantages to it.[/QUOTE] Currently printing a battery casing for a headtorch, rectilinear 35% for a bit more solidity without costing too much weight. For stuff that doesn't need to be so strong I tend to use20-25%

For applications where weight is an issue (drones) go with ABS, its much lighter. Meaning you can fit a bigger battery.

Hm. I'm noticing my printer seems to skip the 2nd layer's external perimeter, resulting in a small but somewhat annoying gap between layers - Any ideas? Structurally and all the prints come out fine, but I'd like to solve it anyway.

[QUOTE=ramirez!;46068280]Hm. I'm noticing my printer seems to skip the 2nd layer's external perimeter, resulting in a small but somewhat annoying gap between layers - Any ideas? Structurally and all the prints come out fine, but I'd like to solve it anyway.[/QUOTE] Daft question perhaps, but have you checked the gcode? Is that perimeter being generated?

I've got an issue with this arm of a quadcopter see the little corners in the pic below? [t]http://i.imgur.com/6wFLIYJ.png[/t] (the squares are 1cm2) they peel up a bit while printing, and in a lot of cases stick to the printhead and then ruin the print. What would I need to adjust to make it not peel up, something in slic3r or something physical i.e. the heatbed height (which is kinda an issue as it's already at it's lowest point. Issue is that it's bulged up in the middle a bit so it tends to get further from the bed nearing the edges, which is where this corner is)

[QUOTE=scratch (nl);46073314]I've got an issue with this arm of a quadcopter see the little corners in the pic below? [t]http://i.imgur.com/6wFLIYJ.png[/t] (the squares are 1cm2) they peel up a bit while printing, and in a lot of cases stick to the printhead and then ruin the print. What would I need to adjust to make it not peel up, something in slic3r or something physical i.e. the heatbed height (which is kinda an issue as it's already at it's lowest point. Issue is that it's bulged up in the middle a bit so it tends to get further from the bed nearing the edges, which is where this corner is)[/QUOTE] Using PLA right? What are you printing on to? Sounds like an issue with the height the printhead is set at, but unavoidable if your bed is warped. Try slowing down the first layer. If it's already slowed, slowed it further, fixed some issues I was having with printing sharp corners on the first layer lifting slightly. Might want to see about either flattening (or skimming depending what your bed is made of)the bed.

bed's a piece of glass ontop of a heatbed. I'll try slowing down the print speed, and if possible lower the nozzle a slight bit more. [editline]25th September 2014[/editline] I've also had some hairspray on it for a while make stuff stick better as well. Could uneven distribution have such an impact on flatness of the glass plate? It's not like there's a huge layer of it on or anything, but who knows.

If it is PLA you should try blue tape. Make sure you wipe the tape down with alcohol it makes a HUGE difference.

I tried slowing down the speed and moved the plate up a bit, but the corners still lifted the first go after which the printer hit em. I'll see if I can get some blue tape tomorrow. Where is it sold in general? construction stores? I know a kind of hobby store nearby too, but they don't specialise in 3D printers in any way.

[QUOTE=scratch (nl);46075564]I tried slowing down the speed and moved the plate up a bit, but the corners still lifted the first go after which the printer hit em. I'll see if I can get some blue tape tomorrow. Where is it sold in general? construction stores? I know a kind of hobby store nearby too, but they don't specialise in 3D printers in any way.[/QUOTE] It's just Scotch or 3M masking tape. [editline]25th September 2014[/editline] And isopropanol!

[QUOTE=ramirez!;46075742]It's just Scotch or 3M masking tape. [editline]25th September 2014[/editline] And isopropanol![/QUOTE] would I need isopropanol specifically or would any odd cleaning agent work (except for some that I heard dissolve some types of plastic). I can only find straight up bottles of isopropanol while I'm sure it's also a cleaning agent for like way cheaper (while it's the same shit in most cases) [editline]25th September 2014[/editline] and for some reason basic blue painters tape seems to be uncommon as fuck as well, it's rudicilous and annoying. I know websites that sell both but I just want to go out and get it in a store. [editline]26th September 2014[/editline] this looks kinda like it. [t]https://d25o1wfid6sx72.cloudfront.net/medias/sys_master/celum_assets/8805497634846_4042448149978_1_32209_tif_picture_Fullsize.jpg?34[/t] I assume the whole point of the tape is it's rough surface or something?

It could work, but isopropanol is a fairly non-reactive alcohol, so it's somewhat safer for the materials. You can usually find it in first aid aisles, at 91% percent strength, for fairly cheap.

You guys should try using fiberglass plates on th heatbed. Both ABS and PLA stick to it very well when its hot, and pats detatch themselves when it cools down to room temperature.

[QUOTE=ramirez!;46078471]It could work, but isopropanol is a fairly non-reactive alcohol, so it's somewhat safer for the materials. You can usually find it in first aid aisles, at 91% percent strength, for fairly cheap.[/QUOTE] Pretty sure nail varnish remover works ok too.

Greetings all, I'm new here, in that...this is my very first post. Anyway...I was printing up some Marvins today (from tiatanfall) and found in post process that ended up with a bunch of loose arms. I sat down to go back to where i found the model and take a better look at it, when i got distracted (Again) by the thought.. "hey Venz..you know what would be really cool to print? some player models or maybe a shrike from tribes2" Yeah...spent a LOT of time in that game...loved it, hardly have time to game anymore as work keeps me pretty busy. Anyway...my wandering mind led me to this forum, which I thought...hey...I like the feel of this place I think I will say hi. -HI- Keep up the good work with your machines..I've learned a lot from these threads tonight alone. BTW...I was printing the Marvins on a machine called a ProJet 3510Max I'll try to include some pictures of some of the various prints I've done...i also have access to a Projet 660pro. a Projet 6000. and a Projet 5000. See a theme? I like to think of them as...the color powder printer...the plastic multijet, and the SLA and that one I'm working on right now. until next time.

I got a bottle of...paint cleaner. It's the only thing I saw isopropanol on, but it also contains 2-Butoxyethanol (any idea if this affects stuff?) and it's blue :v: [editline]26th September 2014[/editline] also got two kind of tape, one is quite a bit rougher than the other. Also, what's the purpose of the isopropanol? do you apply it to the tape to roughen the surface up/clean it so the PLA sticks to it instead of something else?

I'm not exactly sure but I think it's mostly meant to clean the surface of oils and residue of previous prints.