3D printer thread - what have you been printing? - Creationism Corner

[QUOTE=scratch (nl);46080904]I got a bottle of...paint cleaner. It's the only thing I saw isopropanol on, but it also contains 2-Butoxyethanol (any idea if this affects stuff?) and it's blue :v: [editline]26th September 2014[/editline] also got two kind of tape, one is quite a bit rougher than the other. Also, what's the purpose of the isopropanol? do you apply it to the tape to roughen the surface up/clean it so the PLA sticks to it instead of something else?[/QUOTE] Avoid it - atmospheric 2-BE is nasty to your respiratory tract and eyes, if I recall correctly, and paint thinner or cleaners have never been terribly safe to be around (RIP Bob Ross). Are you sure you checked a local pharmacy? I can't believe they wouldn't have it. Ask some store clerks for it - They may also call it rubbing alcohol. The purpose of it is simply cleaning the surface of the tape, so you may be able to get away with it. As for the two kinds of tape, I know the stuff I use is by 3M and appears almost wrinkled, with lighter flecks in the tape. Try both and see which adheres best?

thanks for the info, I already had a feeling it was no good when I took a (small) sniff. Right now I'm printing and the tape has kept everything down, even really tiny bits. I still have some issues with corners piling up above what they should, but that's not printbed related. Thanks for the help!

Out of curiousity, what do you mean by 'corners piling up'? [editline]26th September 2014[/editline] Also: Does anyone know a Marlin/Reprap g-code for lifting the nozzle X units in the z-direction from the current position? I realized my end g-code includes bringing the extruder down to Z5, and that gouged a print of mine pretty bad. [editline]26th September 2014[/editline] Aannd another: My fan won't accept speed adjustments that aren't 100%. When I try M106 S50 or using the fan speed slider, it stops and begins squealing.

your fan might not support PWM controll, I got where it either works at 100% and just stops at anything else. [editline]26th September 2014[/editline] also, by corners piling up I mean that it seems to extrude a bit much when changing direction in a corner, causing a bit of plastic to create a small bump. [editline]26th September 2014[/editline] fuck the print isn't coming loose of the printer's tape now even after cooling down :pwn:

Use a flat head or a razor to slip under an edge and pry it up. To solve the corners, I just increased the print speed. Too much time spent in a corner means rounded edges and lift. What temperature are you printing at? Ambient and extruder. [editline]26th September 2014[/editline] Ugh. An hour into a two hour print and I realize I could have significantly saved on plastic by modeling a hollow into the object.

195 on head, 70 on bed for the first 3 layers, then 65. I also have an issue which has to do with cooling I think. Here you can see the entire object I printed (arm for a quadcopter) [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43645231/photos/electro/printer/2014-09-26%2021.35.34.jpg[/t] here's how the left side looks [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43645231/photos/electro/printer/2014-09-26%2021.36.06.jpg[/t] here's how the right side looks [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43645231/photos/electro/printer/2014-09-26%2021.36.17.jpg[/t] both are supposed to be straight walls, and as you can see the left one clearly isn't. Now the thing is; the cooling fan in relation to the pictures is positioned near the right. What I think is that the fan can't blow on the left side of the thing, causing it to deform and slope like that, as it only happens on that exact side while all others are good.

What's the slope of your bed like? It almost looks like the one side isn't adhering well enough.

[QUOTE=ramirez!;46083550]What's the slope of your bed like? It almost looks like the one side isn't adhering well enough.[/QUOTE] The slope of the bed is pretty small as far as I know, and certainly not big enough to cause that slope. You can also see on the straight side that there's a small bump at the bottom. I think that's around the point where I turned on the fan to cool the plastic.

Drop that print temp down a bit, PLA retains heat a lot better than ABS so you want to keep it on the cool side for overhangs.

but it's supposed to be a straight wall, not an overhang :v:. I think lowering temp is a good idea though for other reasons.

For PLA I try to print only slightly above the temperature that it freely extrudes at. That way it's got less heat to shed, which I feel limits the potential for it pulling in before setting. Also, on the glass of the heated bed, try a glue stick. I've heard some brands don't work but I've had excellent results with Elmer's All Purpose glue stick. To remove the print, take your glass bed and place it in the freezer for 5-10 minutes and the print just remove itself.

you mean to flatten the bed? that might work yeah. I tried putting the print in the fridge yesterday but I only did it for really short as I had to do stuff. Putting it in the freezer (for longer) works much better I assume. [editline]27th September 2014[/editline] only thing I should've done with the roll: the suggested temps (for the best results with the specific roll) were on the wrapping it was in and I threw that away weeks ago. I'll write it down on the roll next time.

Does anyone else get like an odd sinking feeling when you see what could be (but isn't necessarily) a defect in the first few layers of a multi-hour print, but only after it's half done printing? I hate this hobby a little.

Does anybody know how to get halfway decent supports from Slic3r? Mine are all but part of the print, with how close they were printed. [editline]27th September 2014[/editline] Whooooops, sorry for the double post.

So I did end up ordering a printer a few weeks ago, and the other day a box full of good things arrived. [t]http://i.imgur.com/JFLi9QS.jpg[/t] I've been working on it non-stop since then, and with the help of a friend, it's finally in one piece, moving, and heating up! [t]http://i.imgur.com/OGdqylO.jpg[/t] Now to see if I ever manage to actually print anything on it!

[QUOTE=ramirez!;46093332]Does anybody know how to get halfway decent supports from Slic3r? Mine are all but part of the print, with how close they were printed. [/quote] Mine operates pretty well at the default settings (2.5 mm pattern rectilinear, 0 angle interface layers and pattern spacing), though I did un-check the "Don't support Bridges" box, either slic3r or my printer can't bridge worth shit, so it's necessary. I would invest in exacto knives and a wood chisel, they're useful for removing prints from glass and particularly tough support material. Pretty much all support needs to be trimmed after it's ripped off anyway. [editline]28th September 2014[/editline] [QUOTE=Lapsus;46093371]So I did end up ordering a printer a few weeks ago, and the other day a box full of good things arrived. [t]http://i.imgur.com/JFLi9QS.jpg[/t] I've been working on it non-stop since then, and with the help of a friend, it's finally in one piece, moving, and heating up! [t]http://i.imgur.com/OGdqylO.jpg[/t] Now to see if I ever manage to actually print anything on it![/QUOTE] That's actually manufactured like 3 miles from where I live. The guy started doing Prusa v2 parts, he had a whole farm of Prusas in his basement to print them off for people.

I still love how 3D printers can partially self replicate :v: [editline]28th September 2014[/editline] for solid prints; do you guys use many perimeters or as few as possible? I wonder what gives better results

been printing quadcopter arms, each with different settings. fromt left to right, the first print till the latest one. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43645231/photos/electro/printer/2014-09-28%2020.36.25.jpg[/t] the one furthest back is the first print, notice how the wall on the first two prints isn't straight [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43645231/photos/electro/printer/2014-09-28%2020.37.29.jpg[/t] best one (as it had the most correct shape, even though it had a few more small clumps within it) probably is the last one with the heatbed off. It has straight walls, but warped a bit as it cooled down. I'll try reprinting it and perhaps heat up the bed after the first few layers to see how that goes. Thanks for the help though you guys, as your tips and suggestions helped a lot!

I think the worst thing about opaque and other filaments is that it makes it extremely difficult to identify defects.

I dunno, usually surface stuff is visible, and I've had occasions where looking at the inside showed defects there (for example, at one point the honeycomb infill was very messy while other prints had it follow the pattern tightly)

hmm, I get the best results(least strange issues with lower layers, walls which are straight up when they should be) with no heatbed on, with the only downside that the object bends a bit. Is there a way to prevent it bending? Would having the bed at a low temp of like 40 degrees help against that whilst having the pro's of cold bed printing?

Depends on the printing material. I've got pretty minimal lift with PLA, but it's enough to be frustrating. I think the recommended bed temperature for PLA is 70 degrees celsius.

yeah, the lift is kinda small with PLA. Printing with the heat bed on results in the slanted walls I posted up here, even at 50 degrees the effect ocurred.

I'm sorry, it was 55 degrees celsius, not 70. Try setting your extruder slightly cooler, say around 180-185, and compare the slant in the walls to other prints. EDIT: Also, what are your infill and perimeter settings like?

[QUOTE=ramirez!;46107142]I'm sorry, it was 55 degrees celsius, not 70. Try setting your extruder slightly cooler, say around 180-185, and compare the slant in the walls to other prints. EDIT: Also, what are your infill and perimeter settings like?[/QUOTE] I have one brand of PLA that prints at 165 and another that prints at 175, don't be afraid to keep dropping the temp until you get solid results

I have a spool of PLA that needs a 60°C hotbed to not curl.

[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;46178628]I have a spool of PLA that needs a 60°C hotbed to not curl.[/QUOTE] I ended up using 65 with that batch of 175 degree PLA, for whatever reason. It was cheap though so I can't complain too lividly about how weird its temps are

I'm going to "gift" that spool to someone else. Its the only spool of PLA that consistently jams my hotend.

thats like gifting someone a scratched DVD you monster :v:

I'v been trying to make a 3d printed e-cigarette mechanical mod ( a box with a switch and a battery ). Just like everything I do it ended up looking extremely ghetto. [thumb]http://i.imgur.com/zSdiPnh.png[/thumb] Also, since I used to fly RC planes in the past, its incredibly scary to hold that battery next to my face knowing any moment it could rip my hand off and spray my face with flames.