I've had weird shit with slicing up .stl files converted from .ipt files in autdesk inventor
[t]http://i.imgur.com/H0wzmPt.png[/t]
is there a way to fix it doing strange stuff as seen with the top left corner?
Are you doing a straight export, rather than using some external tool?
[QUOTE=scratch (nl);46221358]I've had weird shit with slicing up .stl files converted from .ipt files in autdesk inventor
[t]http://i.imgur.com/H0wzmPt.png[/t]
is there a way to fix it doing strange stuff as seen with the top left corner?[/QUOTE]
Inventor exports like shit. Try exporting into an obj or something more universal than going to stl
Inspired by scratch, I'm going to print the flame-style quad too ([url]http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34552[/url]). I got some ABS (will be a new experience for me) and I'll hopefully be able to start next week.
I haven't really had time to continue with it and got a bit fed up because of the following: the square base plate keeps seperating from the bed at the exact same location during the print.
I should try again now that I redid the tape on it. The arms of it seemd to go fine though, just gotta watch out for the small pieces it tries to make during the 1st layer as those tend to move or morph a bit.
[QUOTE=alexaz;46221062]I'v been trying to make a 3d printed e-cigarette mechanical mod ( a box with a switch and a battery ).
Just like everything I do it ended up looking extremely ghetto.
[thumb]http://i.imgur.com/zSdiPnh.png[/thumb]
Also, since I used to fly RC planes in the past, its incredibly scary to hold that battery next to my face knowing any moment it could rip my hand off and spray my face with flames.[/QUOTE]
haha 3d printed vape mod, that's awesome. does it work?
I just bought an e-nail that was 3d printed, at least the casing was. I didn't make it so I cannot take credit, it's still awesome though!
[IMG]http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/n-pktq5q/8bpd5en/products/1715/images/5192/crane_pro_enail_09__28728.1413075203.1280.1280.png?c=2[/IMG]
Would be cool to print a 3d drone. Now I want one.
I'm finally starting to get a slight idea of how to do this whole 3d printing thing, but I'm having an issue I don't really know how to fix.
Most of my prints are working out just fine if they make it past the first few layers, but the infill always looks horrible and patchy, and there's often holes in the walls of my prints. I'm guessing it's an underextrusion problem, but I don't really know what to do to fix it.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/XzThWVi.jpg[/t]
I've calibrated my extruder steps per mm, and made sure everything is level, and the nozzle is clean and not obstructed as far as I can tell, but it hasn't really changed anything.
I'm printing PLA at 185°C on a 65°C bed at 70mm/s, if that makes a difference. Would slowing down help fix this and the small holes in the walls of prints?
Try increasing temperature a bit, 5 and 10 degrees first and see how the prints come out. If not that make sure your first layers are going down nicely, you aren't having skips from inadequate stepper power (or general electronic ghostery), and your extruder gear isn't slipping.
I bet its temp being too low though
[QUOTE=paindoc;46275657]Try increasing temperature a bit, 5 and 10 degrees first and see how the prints come out. If not that make sure your first layers are going down nicely, you aren't having skips from inadequate stepper power (or general electronic ghostery), and your extruder gear isn't slipping.
I bet its temp being too low though[/QUOTE]
I agree, for pla I normally print at 190, possibly a little higher for coloured.
Finally got around to printing a pi case, octoprint is pretty great also.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/s54hfEC.jpg[/t]
Now I just need to find a way to mount it to my printer, and maybe have it control the printer power supply.
Printing hotter and slower seems to have fixed most of my surface issues, but I'm getting a few random blobs of plastic from my hotend, it seems like it's leaking out between the heater block and the cooling fins on top. I hope it's nothing too serious.
3D print a case for two power plugs and a relay.
Also I printed the raspberry roll cage or whatever its called and just zip-tied it to a table leg.
Just ordered a printer! Hopefully will start printing by monday.
So I'm talking to some company on MakeXYZ that wants me to print them a couple of signs for their job fairs. So I'm talking to them, and they want a sign that's like 3 feet by 3 feet, which is way too big for my printer that has an 8 inch by 8 inch base. So I talk to them about using my schools laser cutter (and as such, paying the school to do it instead), and then about the problems of sourcing the sheets (stuff would be about $20 a sheet, etc). Suddenly: "Our budget is between fifteen hundred to two thousand per sign"
JESUS FUCKING CHRIST, I WOULD HAVE PRINTED IT FOR THAT!
So I guess my school is going to be making a lot of money. Or, at least a little bit. I fucked up by telling them the cost of materials, but I'm sure they'll make a decent return. They're sure as hell going to have money to buy more materials for the school to cut.
I just finished a printing project that I've spent the past month on. I 3d printed a ukulele for my friend's birthday. I've never grown so attached to a print before that I've been sad to give it to the person I made it for, but the joy it gave him and seeing it actually played made me warm inside.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/62766551/3D%20Printing/PA240011.jpg[/t][t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/62766551/3D%20Printing/PA240012.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=HiddenMyst;46319254]I just finished a printing project that I've spent the past month on. I 3d printed a ukulele for my friend's birthday. I've never grown so attached to a print before that I've been sad to give it to the person I made it for, but the joy it gave him and seeing it actually played made me warm inside.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/62766551/3D%20Printing/PA240011.jpg[/t][t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/62766551/3D%20Printing/PA240012.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]
The beautiful thing is, you can print another!
3d printing without a fan = oh god its so slow kill me now (40m for a 20mm calibration cube O_o)
Considering [URL="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:338831"]building this[/URL]. Any thoughts?
[QUOTE=Samg381;46355164]Considering [URL="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:338831"]building this[/URL]. Any thoughts?[/QUOTE]
Would be pretty awesome having a Daft Punk helmet. If you do it, I highly recommend spending the extra time afterwards sanding and painting it in layers to get a smooth surface, then get some spray chrome.
yeah this year I was thinking going all out and building the other daft punk helmet and doing a solid job but between physics and math this quarter I've barely had time to even get my printer online.
using it for a costume? That was my idea initially as well. Putting in a tiny little arduino i have laying around and a fan or two, plus maybe a small lithium rechargeable battery to run everything. maybe chin switches to control the lights too.
idk i get carried away with stuff like that
you should print the gloves as well if there's a model around or that. Just print out the metallic bits and stick them on a thin glove or something.
I haven't really stayed up to date with 3d printing. What printer gives you most bang for the buck ?
pros/cons etc?
[QUOTE=Hoffa1337;46358050]I haven't really stayed up to date with 3d printing. What printer gives you most bang for the buck ?
pros/cons etc?[/QUOTE]
many of the prusa i3 variants are the best value/dollar, mendelmax 2.0 and lulzbot taz are good on the upper end of price.
deltas are catching on a lot more and can be pretty affordable but they have weird resolution things going on.
stay away from makerbot or i will cut you (shortly after they gouge your wallet clean)
IMO the only reason to get makerbot is if you can't be arsed assembling your printer.
[editline]29th October 2014[/editline]
also 3 times more expensive then your average prusa.
What would I use to cover the helmet once I attached the parts? I've heard of people using bondo but I'm pretty uneducated when it comes to that sort of stuff. I have spray chrome but I'll probably send it off to get it plasti-dipped in fake chrome.
[QUOTE=Samg381;46359602]What would I use to cover the helmet once I attached the parts? I've heard of people using bondo but I'm pretty uneducated when it comes to that sort of stuff. I have spray chrome but I'll probably send it off to get it plasti-dipped in fake chrome.[/QUOTE]
you can get a nice smooth finish with acentone
[url]http://airwolf3d.com/2013/11/26/7-steps-shiny-finish-on-abs-parts-acetone/[/url]
I think I know what I'm doing for halloween next year
[t]https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/t31.0-8/10636408_1493168224267613_4573322322215712410_o.jpg[/t]
jk jk. Kinda. I think I'm gonna slice it up and try to make it more accurate to the movie version, using the techniques used in [URL="https://learn.adafruit.com/3d-printed-el-wire-laser-neopixel-led-gas-mask/overview"]this[/URL] gas mask I'm sure I could at least get the eyes lit. Maybe add some EL wire too
[QUOTE=metallics;46359804]you can get a nice smooth finish with acentone
[url]http://airwolf3d.com/2013/11/26/7-steps-shiny-finish-on-abs-parts-acetone/[/url][/QUOTE]
After I used the acetone, would paint still stick to it normally? I have some really nice spray chrome I'm using.
[QUOTE=Samg381;46375722]After I used the acetone, would paint still stick to it normally? I have some really nice spray chrome I'm using.[/QUOTE]
As long as you give it plenty of time to dry and cure (24 hours should do it) before you try and paint it, I can't see why paint wouldn't stick to it, it's not uncommon to use something similar to degrease parts before painting. If you're worried, try doing a small test piece first (probably worth it just to practice anyway)
anyone have any idea how to scale stuff like the guy man and thomas bangalter helmets to scale? Looking at the guy man one now and I'm not sure how to get it to fit. The one on thingiverse is stupidly wide and I have a pretty narrow head so I think I can pull off a size closer to the original (I estimate my head to be about 150mm-160mm at its peak width).
repetierhost allows me to adjust the XYZ scales of a model on the fly without modifying the .stl. I don't know how to do it otherwise though.
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3D printer thread - what have you been printing?
