[QUOTE=scratch (nl);46383674]repetierhost allows me to adjust the XYZ scales of a model on the fly without modifying the .stl. I don't know how to do it otherwise though.[/QUOTE]
You can also use the info window to get accurate projected sizes of the finished print, which is extremely handy for such a thing like helmets.
You can percentage scale in Slic3r as well, gives projected measurements too.
Im just using nettfabb to scale it. I do infact have a damn skinny head so the daft punk helmet might fit just fine near its native size
[editline]3rd November 2014[/editline]
I wonder if you could put 3 colors of braided EL wire (rgb) in opaque tubing and re-use algorithms for shifting the color of rgb leds to shift through the color spectrum
I'm going wayyyy out there with a daft punk-ish costume atm. like I said, want to take something to pax prime this year since i live in seattle now
I have finished a Dark souls silver knight helmet and a fallout ranger helmet. Both took like 1-2 months work to print, assemble.
Released the .stl files to build your own silver knight helmet on thingiverse.
[URL="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:359462"]http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:359462[/URL]
[QUOTE=HiddenMyst;46319254]I just finished a printing project that I've spent the past month on. I 3d printed a ukulele for my friend's birthday. I've never grown so attached to a print before that I've been sad to give it to the person I made it for, but the joy it gave him and seeing it actually played made me warm inside.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/62766551/3D%20Printing/PA240011.jpg[/t][t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/62766551/3D%20Printing/PA240012.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]
Can you share?
[QUOTE=opti2000;46414808]Can you share?[/QUOTE]
[url]http://www.thingiverse.com/make:99693[/url]
do you guys know whats going on with these prints here? I think I fixed this problem before I rebuilt into my MM2 but I'm totally spacing atm on what it was
[url]http://imgur.com/a/OsmOX[/url]
Happens to me occasionally, I think its an issue with the filament itself.
Either an airbubble somehow gets in, or the head scrapes off some plasic and it just sits burning on the head until it falls off at some point.
[QUOTE=paindoc;46456151]do you guys know whats going on with these prints here? I think I fixed this problem before I rebuilt into my MM2 but I'm totally spacing atm on what it was
[url]http://imgur.com/a/OsmOX[/url][/QUOTE]
Oozing while printing:
Oozing problems that occur during printing include lumps or blobs in the walls of your print and little strands (like spiderwebs) being left behind as the printhead jumps from one part of the model to another.
Solution: These problems are usually resolved by tweaking the settings in a gcode generator like slic3r. The first setting you want to tweak is temperature, most of the time oozing problems are because your hotend is running a little hot. Try lowering it a couple of degrees and try again. If that doesn’t completely alleviate the problem, another group of settings worth tweaking is retraction. You will find this under the Printer Settings -> Extruder section in slic3r.
[IMG]http://reprage.com/images/2012-12-15-slicer-settings.png[/IMG]
Retraction is where your printer will actually wind the extruder backwards when jumping from one place to another. This creates a small amount of suction to counter gravity and briefly prevent oozing. Try increasing the retraction length (how many millimetres are wound back) and the retraction speed.
[QUOTE=opti2000;46458051]Oozing while printing:
Oozing problems that occur during printing include lumps or blobs in the walls of your print and little strands (like spiderwebs) being left behind as the printhead jumps from one part of the model to another.
Solution: These problems are usually resolved by tweaking the settings in a gcode generator like slic3r. The first setting you want to tweak is temperature, most of the time oozing problems are because your hotend is running a little hot. Try lowering it a couple of degrees and try again. If that doesn’t completely alleviate the problem, another group of settings worth tweaking is retraction. You will find this under the Printer Settings -> Extruder section in slic3r.
[IMG]http://reprage.com/images/2012-12-15-slicer-settings.png[/IMG]
Retraction is where your printer will actually wind the extruder backwards when jumping from one place to another. This creates a small amount of suction to counter gravity and briefly prevent oozing. Try increasing the retraction length (how many millimetres are wound back) and the retraction speed.[/QUOTE]
Thanks, I had completely forgot to adjust my retraction settings. Slic3r's setup leaves that out and my retraction was fuckhuge relative to what I used to use.
Temp too, I keep forgetting how weird this filament is. A recalibration and retemp later and results are much better
Checket m8s.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/aqN4zCd.jpg[/t]
After I made that MA37 way back when, I figured I'd start one-up'ing myself. Each part's had an hour in my ghetto-ass acetone chamber and I'm sealing all the joints with my ghetto-ass ABS putty, which I still need to sand down.
I might print a BR85 next.
[editline]dsgjkh[/editline]
By the way it's true when they say this thing's fuckoff massive. It can reach from the Tab key on my keyboard all the way to the far end of the enter key.
[QUOTE=Pilotguy97;46478975]Checket m8s.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/aqN4zCd.jpg[/t]
After I made that MA37 way back when, I figured I'd start one-up'ing myself. Each part's had an hour in my ghetto-ass acetone chamber and I'm sealing all the joints with my ghetto-ass ABS putty, which I still need to sand down.
I might print a BR85 next.
[editline]dsgjkh[/editline]
By the way it's true when they say this thing's fuckoff massive. It can reach from the Tab key on my keyboard all the way to the far end of the enter key.[/QUOTE]
Can you maybe show us your acetone chamber? :S I want to build one aswell but never had time to do it.
Also i made a little guitar in the past days. I covered the lower parts with a self-adhesive flock foil. It has a velvety surface now :D
[t]http://i.imgur.com/oEcjG8w.jpg?1[/t]
[QUOTE=opti2000;46479080]Can you maybe show us your acetone chamber? :S I want to build one aswell but never had time to do it.
[/QUOTE]
There really isn't much to it. All you need is a metal container (I use a bucket), some tin foil, paper towels and a few magnets.
Then what I do is cover the inside of the bucket with the towels and magnets like this:
[t]http://i.imgur.com/cdNiEMB.jpg[/t]
while I put my print on the foil. Then, just pour the acetone into the bucket (enough to soak the bottom towel, but make sure to shake out any drips if you pour too much in. Dripping acetone left a melt-mark on my table once). From there, just invert the bucket over the print and make sure the thing's sealed. Acetone evaporates quick, though, so you have to move a little quick once you start pouring otherwise you risk wasting too much of the stuff.
Bake for one hour or until golden brown. Garnish with basil and serve with your favourite sides.
Seriously though, if you cook, you probably have everything you need besides the acetone itself (which is useful anyway. Good for cleaning metals and melting failed prints).
[QUOTE=Pilotguy97;46478975]Checket m8s.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/aqN4zCd.jpg[/t]
After I made that MA37 way back when, I figured I'd start one-up'ing myself. Each part's had an hour in my ghetto-ass acetone chamber and I'm sealing all the joints with my ghetto-ass ABS putty, which I still need to sand down.
I might print a BR85 next.
[editline]dsgjkh[/editline]
By the way it's true when they say this thing's fuckoff massive. It can reach from the Tab key on my keyboard all the way to the far end of the enter key.[/QUOTE]
What material did you print in?
[QUOTE=Timebomb575;46479750]What material did you print in?[/QUOTE]
I'd guess ABS since he used acetone to smooth it.
[QUOTE=BoSoZoku;46479935]I'd guess ABS since he used acetone to smooth it.[/QUOTE]
I was figuring that as well but I didnt want to assume anything.
Follow up question: Ive been printing mostly in PLA, but I want to make the move to ABS. I have a heated bed and all that fun stuff, but Im mostly curious about the smell.
My printer is in a basement that probably doesn't have the greatest ventilation, given ABS' chemistry, I imagine that it smells pretty awful when you melt it (I know it reeks when you burn it), would it stink up the place during a long print?
The ABS fumes give me a headache. Its sealed away in the "craft room" of my parents with an open window.
But given the smell vs the number of times PLA has crippled my printer I would definitely recommend ABS.
I've yet to have trouble printing PLA, and mmmmf it smells like roasted honey covered somethings.
[QUOTE=ramirez!;46485847]I've yet to have trouble printing PLA, and mmmmf it smells like roasted honey covered somethings.[/QUOTE]
I've had plenty of issues, but usually more to do with the wonky homebrew nature of my printer rather than pla itself... I think it smells like celery.
[QUOTE=ramirez!;46485847]I've yet to have trouble printing PLA, and mmmmf it smells like roasted honey covered somethings.[/QUOTE]
Mine smells like waffles and nozzle jams
[editline]14th November 2014[/editline]
mostly waffles though, ive jammed once
[editline]14th November 2014[/editline]
buy yourself some welding tip cleaners that what i use
Thank you oxygen-carbon bond clevage! Turning our plastic into lovely esters.
Is the ABS smell (as bad as it might be) as subtle as PLAs smell? Because I can barely smell PLA unless I'm right up near the nozzle where I occasionally catch a pleasant whiff.
No ABS overwhelms everything in my experience, and the worst part of using it is purging the old PLA out of the nozzle... you get a horrifying mix of burning PLA and hot ABS and you're right next to the nozzle
it made me feel really sick and gave me a wicked headache
Theres a reason I put my printer in an unused room.
well, I'll avoid ABS as long as my printer stands only 1 meter away from my computer :v:
[QUOTE=scratch (nl);46494904]well, I'll avoid ABS as long as my printer stands only 1 meter away from my computer :v:[/QUOTE]
what do you have againsy braindtyat damage yoiadf
Got a quick question for you guys about the durability of 3d printed objects? Got a few things I wanna print off at the library for my Datsun like some custom centre caps, some brackets for some custom wiring and some tiny interior pieces that cost a lot to get and are hard to find. What's the durability like on 3d printed objects for shock/weather?
Is google sketchup a good tool for designs, or is there some file issues in the conversion process?
[QUOTE=A_Pigeon;46498682]Got a quick question for you guys about the durability of 3d printed objects? Got a few things I wanna print off at the library for my Datsun like some custom centre caps, some brackets for some custom wiring and some tiny interior pieces that cost a lot to get and are hard to find. What's the durability like on 3d printed objects for shock/weather?
Is google sketchup a good tool for designs, or is there some file issues in the conversion process?[/QUOTE]
3D printed thermoplastics are generally between 50% and 80% as strong as the same polymer when injection molded and no more vulnerable to light, heat, or chemicals than the injection molded version. Because of the way 3D printing works, a thermoplastic object (as opposed to the material itself) can sometimes be designed to be many times more durable than an injection molded equivalent (this has to do with allowable wall thicknesses, draft, flow angles, etc. in injection molding).
3D printed photopolymer resins vary wildly in strength - some are extremely fragile (early acrylate resins), some are as strong as injection molded polymers like ABS but more vulnerable to ultraviolet light damage, becoming brittle with prolonged exposure (newer acrylate and epoxy based resins).
3D printed metal parts can actually be stronger than the same material produced by casting. Testing shows they can achieve performance equaling or exceeding forged components with proper stress relieving heat treatments and hot isostatic pressing.
TL:DR
Yes 3D printed parts are durable.
[QUOTE=A_Pigeon;46498682]Got a quick question for you guys about the durability of 3d printed objects? Got a few things I wanna print off at the library for my Datsun like some custom centre caps, some brackets for some custom wiring and some tiny interior pieces that cost a lot to get and are hard to find. What's the durability like on 3d printed objects for shock/weather?
Is google sketchup a good tool for designs, or is there some file issues in the conversion process?[/QUOTE]
I use sketchup for all of my designs - issues usually arise in the slicing to gcode stage rather than the model production stage.
Will intersecting objects create issues? I'm having trouble with the last part of my wheel centers
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3D printer thread - what have you been printing?
