Tried printing something not functional or particularly useful for once, also not modeled by me, a part from the base, I had to add something to it!
[t]http://i.imgur.com/Hw9R0fA.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/xF9xcQ2.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/HHUouTi.jpg[/t]
Lots of support material, printed on his back (took less time and material that way) with 0.4 nozzle and 0.3 layer height, took about 1h20m at 50mm/s sliced in Cura.
I tried acetone smoothing (not shown), I put some acetone on a jar's lid, propped the print on some thick copper wire and closed the jar upside down (for easier removal), turns out wetting paper towels and sticking them all around the print is a better idea, like I did the bottom became very smooth and even soft the rest didn't change much.
What do you guys usually print ABS at?
I tried a print at 235 last night, and while it came out looking fine, the layer adhesion was really poor and it cleanly broke apart at the layers really easily.
I often see delamination of abs whenever I'm doing sharp turns.
[QUOTE=Timebomb575;46645186]What do you guys usually print ABS at?
I tried a print at 235 last night, and while it came out looking fine, the layer adhesion was really poor and it cleanly broke apart at the layers really easily.[/QUOTE]
This is very, very different for everyone. I use 210 for white ABS, black ABS can need up to 240, 250. It depends on the color and supplier. I suggest you bump the temperature up by 5.
[QUOTE=Timebomb575;46645186]What do you guys usually print ABS at?
I tried a print at 235 last night, and while it came out looking fine, the layer adhesion was really poor and it cleanly broke apart at the layers really easily.[/QUOTE]
I had some printing at 225 and a little bit on Abe (on small split on the round base) at 240, minor thought like one small split per print, both very around sharp turns which would add to Cakebatyr's reports.
I'm not sure what setup you have but I've read that the E3D fan (meant to cool the hotend not the print) blows quite a lot of air all over the place, I find that with it on the bed takes longer to get up to temp so that might also be something to look into, I think I will try to make some sort of duct to direct the air on the other side of the fan, so it goes in, through the fins and out upwards.
Also just walking past (and other apparently minor air movements) while it's printing might have an effect. (don't quote me on that though)
Hahahaha I'm so silly.
I've been printing with my extruder at 600 steps per mm, while when I calibrated it today I get about 840 steps per mm. I've had issues with inconsistent feed since ever :v:
Finally received the timing belt. After putting the printer back together I did a small print and it ended up looking like shit. I guess its time to do the "2 week long calibration" again.
[QUOTE=alexaz;46669206]Finally received the timing belt. After putting the printer back together I did a small print and it ended up looking like shit. I guess its time to do the "2 week long calibration" again.[/QUOTE]
as much as I love 3D printing and my 3D printer, I hesitate to encourage people to get into it at this stage in its development because of shit like this.
Unless you are really willing to dedicate a lot of time to it, or spend a lot of money on really high end printers, it might not be worth it. I find myself within inches of smashing my printer with a bat sometimes :v:
Of course, when it works like it's supposed to, it's the greatest thing ever. So that makes up for the occasional downtime when waiting for parts, and the frustration when work on the things.
[QUOTE=Timebomb575;46669444]as much as I love 3D printing and my 3D printer, I hesitate to encourage people to get into it at this stage in its development because of shit like this.
Unless you are really willing to dedicate a lot of time to it, or spend a lot of money on really high end printers, it might not be worth it. I find myself within inches of smashing my printer with a bat sometimes :v:
Of course, when it works like it's supposed to, it's the greatest thing ever. So that makes up for the occasional downtime when waiting for parts, and the frustration when work on the things.[/QUOTE]
I think you're quite correct regarding the current state of printers. They're hobbiest machines and take a tech-head to really make the most of. This is fine for me as I enjoy geeking out over the little ins-and-outs of my printer but my friend who saw what I was printing went out to get a Printrbot metal simple and used it for 3 days before putting it away for good.
Ultimately, if you're patient and not easily agitated, 3d printing is a worthwhile investment right now, otherwise hold off for another decade.
I'd like to try our schools 3D printer but it's pretty small. I'm was thinking of printing a karambit from csgo but i think it can only be 1 sided unless i make two of them and then glue both sides together
[QUOTE=Teippiman;46682474]I'd like to try our schools 3D printer but it's pretty small. I'm was thinking of printing a karambit from csgo but i think it can only be 1 sided unless i make two of them and then glue both sides together[/QUOTE]
You could also try printing it as one model but with support.
a lot of g-code generators have integrated support generation features, so you might not even have to do any extra work (apart from cleaning the support off after the print finishes)
[editline]10th December 2014[/editline]
man I wish we had 3D printers when I was in middle/high school
[QUOTE=HiddenMyst;46674355]Ultimately, if you're patient and not easily agitated, 3d printing is a worthwhile investment right now, otherwise hold off for another decade.[/QUOTE]
a decade seems like a loong time given how fast 3D printing has already progressed in the past few years, but I do have to agree unless you're a super avid person who's willing to put in the time and effort it's just not worth the cost to buy into a curiosity.
like, I'm super excited about the possibilities, but I really don't think I'd consider buying my own unless I actually needed the whole [i]rapid[/i] part of prototyping. I'd find it much easier to justify printing little hobbyist bits through shapeways or whoever, especially given they've got access to most type of printing and I'm not locked down to one specific form or function when my projects may be wildly different from one to the next, like course and cheap stuff for utilitarian things, to ultrafine details for a sculpted model, to a little piece of designer jewelry done up with steel or brass or whatever. It's cool I can potentially order ceramics and colored limestone and junk without investing in half a dozen different machines to accomplish just a few tiny projects
does anyone here deal with outsourced printers like that? I'd be curious to hear some thoughts on benefits/problems associated with it, aside from cost over time if you're doing a lot of printing
[QUOTE=dai;46684100]a decade seems like a loong time given how fast 3D printing has already progressed in the past few years, but I do have to agree unless you're a super avid person who's willing to put in the time and effort it's just not worth the cost to buy into a curiosity.
like, I'm super excited about the possibilities, but I really don't think I'd consider buying my own unless I actually needed the whole [i]rapid[/i] part of prototyping. I'd find it much easier to justify printing little hobbyist bits through shapeways or whoever, especially given they've got access to most type of printing and I'm not locked down to one specific form or function when my projects may be wildly different from one to the next, like course and cheap stuff for utilitarian things, to ultrafine details for a sculpted model, to a little piece of designer jewelry done up with steel or brass or whatever. It's cool I can potentially order ceramics and colored limestone and junk without investing in half a dozen different machines to accomplish just a few tiny projects
does anyone here deal with outsourced printers like that? I'd be curious to hear some thoughts on benefits/problems associated with it, aside from cost over time if you're doing a lot of printing[/QUOTE]
Honestly, I look at places like shapeways, and it really blows my mind how much they charge for the service. Like, I understand that the initial capital cost is a lot to get the printers, but holy SHIT do they charge through the nose for stuff.
Like this:
[url]http://www.shapeways.com/model/1870166/prototype-style-hand-grip-for-airsoft.html?li=search-results-1&materialId=6[/url]
They are charging 80 bucks for that, at the least. That thing costs maybe 5 dollars in plastic, tops. If shapeways is something that you use regularly, it would definitely be worth getting a printer. Even an expensive printer would pay for itself fairly quickly if you were using shapeways to make larger items frequently.
[QUOTE=Timebomb575;46684358]Like this:
[url]http://www.shapeways.com/model/1870166/prototype-style-hand-grip-for-airsoft.html?li=search-results-1&materialId=6[/url]
They are charging 80 bucks for that, at the least. That thing costs maybe 5 dollars in plastic, tops.[/QUOTE]
you have to understand that models on the shapeways market [i]are produced by hobbyists who intend to sell[/i]. It's a collection of etsy-like stores for users, and people won't want to pull zero profit for sharing a model they spent some good time designing. You may as well ask an artist why a painting costs so much when the canvas only cost $12 at hobby lobby
my only interest in shapeways is as a venue to order my own designs for print, it's the 'design' tab at the top of the page, instead of 'shop'. Check the [url=http://www.shapeways.com/materials?li=nav]materials[/url] page, clicking on a particular material will detail how much a single part costs to produce at base and how much they charge per cubic centimeter of material. It's pretty neat, and like we both basically said, it would still beat having to invest in a full machine for someone who isn't going to be doing many prints
[QUOTE=dai;46684508]you have to understand that models on the shapeways market [i]are produced by hobbyists who intend to sell[/i]. It's a collection of etsy-like stores for users, and people won't want to pull zero profit for sharing a model they spent some good time designing. You may as well ask an artist why a painting costs so much when the canvas only cost $12 at hobby lobby
[/quote]
Ohhh ok, Ive been misunderstanding how shapeways worked. I thought it was shapeways taking various designs from around the net and printing them for their own profit. That makes more sense then.
[quote]
my only interest in shapeways is as a venue to order my own designs for print, it's the 'design' tab at the top of the page, instead of 'shop'. Check the [url=http://www.shapeways.com/materials?li=nav]materials[/url] page, clicking on a particular material will detail how much a single part costs to produce at base and how much they charge per cubic centimeter of material. It's pretty neat, and like we both basically said, it would still beat having to invest in a full machine for someone who isn't going to be doing many prints[/QUOTE]
Yeah, that definitely seems reasonable if you're making low-volume/one-off items and you need materials variability, like you said.
In my opinion Shapeways and the like are still too expensive and not worth it if you want to do rapid prototyping or anything more than a few prints per year that's for sure.
I had them print me 3 iterations of a Gopro case I designed, it cost me about 30/40 euros plus shipping for each (at least two weeks to make and ship it here), now that I have my own printer I can make them for about 0.5 euros in a couple of hours tops, that's quite a substantial difference.
If I had all the prints I did on my printer so far (not many, few small objects seen in my last posts and not much more) made by Shapeways I would have probably spent as much as buying the printer itself.
So yeah Shapeways and similar services are great for a few prints here and there, if you find that you have lots of ideas and things you want to print you might as well invest in a printer though.
I'd say its more worthwhile to buy a printer if you're using shapeways outside the US.
Although consider this: do you know how many girls ask me to print dildos on my printer? A lot.
I don't suppose you've heard of [url]http://www.3dhubs.com/[/url]
[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;46685356]
Although consider this: do you know how many girls ask me to print dildos on my printer? A lot.[/QUOTE]
Through molding and silicone casting, we are able to 3D print our own girl/boyfriends. THE FUTURE IS NOW
[editline]10th December 2014[/editline]
[I]The year is 2020, after the dawn of the easy-to-use, affordable 3D printer, [B]humanity is dying out.[/B]
[/I]
[I]Having abandoned all social interaction, and attempts to court the opposite sex, everyone has decided to lock themselves in their homes, 3D printing vast numbers of sex toys.[/I]
time to rev up zbrush and put bad dragon to shame
went 2 da library
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/23414526/2014-12-10%2019.53.00.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=dai;46684100]a decade seems like a loong time given how fast 3D printing has already progressed in the past few years, but I do have to agree unless you're a super avid person who's willing to put in the time and effort it's just not worth the cost to buy into a curiosity.[/QUOTE]
I mean till we get printers that are plug and play, with 99% reliability for quality. Take the current industrial ones (like the one that gun guy uses). That sorta thing will be a decade off being an at-home device.
The Maker Gear I got was plug and play, Then again it was $1,700. I've had it for over half a year and the only maintenance I've had to do was oil the rods.
Makergear and Ultimaker make some decently plug and play ready machines, but they still can require tuning beyond most average consumers. 3d printers "wear" faster than most machines too.
At least they're not makerbot, luring in average joes and schools with their advertising and "savings" (on overpriced shit) only to fall apart nearly instantly or have known fixable problems out of the damn box.
[T]http://i.imgur.com/XDUV2du.png[/T]
Skillington hand I printed on rough/draft settings. I want to see if I can make one to the dimensions of my hand.
pls go
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43645231/photos/electro/printer/2014-12-15%2011.58.39.jpg[/t]
I tried prying,supercooling and others things but it's stuck rock solid :v:
maybe heatbed + tape is a bit overkill
Have you tried putting it under hot water for a bit then quickly switching it to cold water?
not really but I got it lose eventually.
also, I printed this thing just now
[t]http://i.imgur.com/nid6vwj.png[/t]
and it turned out quite nice, but at the start and when printing the beak, shit started lifting up causing deformations. What causes this? Bad heating or just a setting I need to adjust in i.e. slic3r?
[editline]15th December 2014[/editline]
I think it partially has to do with bad cooling. I got a fan with funnel one one side and it does seem to have less issues compared to the side without one. I should look at putting either a second fan or a circular duct there :v:
[QUOTE=scratch (nl);46717879]not really but I got it lose eventually.
also, I printed this thing just now
[t]http://i.imgur.com/nid6vwj.png[/t]
and it turned out quite while, but at the start and when printing the beak, shit started lifting up causing deformations. What causes this? Bad heating or just a setting I need to adjust in i.e. slic3r?
[editline]15th December 2014[/editline]
I think it partially has to do with bad cooling. I got a fan with funnel one one side and it does seem to have less issues compared to the side without one. I should look at putting either a second fan or a circular duct there :v:[/QUOTE]
Yeah, you need a fan to cool it. People usually use those small 40mm axial fans to blow air via ducts onto a print. You are better off using a centrifugal fan for that, as they generate more pressure and are more effective at moving air through ducts to the print.
I've decided to make my own filament holder after a bunch of layers on my latest print fucked up due to bad flow.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43645231/photos/electro/printer/2014-12-16%2022.15.50.jpg[/t]
the horizontal spindle on the right is what I used before. With this current setup the spool can just move along with the print head, which I assume would make it work better.
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3D printer thread - what have you been printing?
