3D printer thread - what have you been printing? - Creationism Corner

Mwhaha, finished smoothing and priming the front of my combine mask. Now i just need to put a white coat on it. [img]http://i.imgur.com/aHCuFVE.jpg[/img]

[QUOTE=dark soul;46739500]Mwhaha, finished smoothing and priming the front of my combine mask. Now i just need to put a white coat on it. [img]http://i.imgur.com/aHCuFVE.jpg[/img][/QUOTE] How long did that take to print?

About 35 hours. It was originally going to be around 80+ till I realized I could slice it up into more sections and lower the amount of supports needed. After taking it out of the basement and looking at it under better lighting I'm probably going to need to go back and sand a bit more to fix some of the imperfections before i got back and prime it again.

[QUOTE=dark soul;46742019]About 35 hours. It was originally going to be around 80+ till I realized I could slice it up into more sections and lower the amount of supports needed. After taking it out of the basement and looking at it under better lighting I'm probably going to need to go back and sand a bit more to fix some of the imperfections before i got back and prime it again.[/QUOTE] I dunno man just looking at that picture it looks fucking flawless I assume you used some sort of resin filler stuff?

my room is quite cold, so whenever I want to print now I have wait for it to heat up because the minimum temp treshold is being hit and causes the printer to stop :v:

[QUOTE=scratch (nl);46749944]my room is quite cold, so whenever I want to print now I have wait for it to heat up because the minimum temp treshold is being hit and causes the printer to stop :v:[/QUOTE] My room is colder aswell, so I can't print ABS. The heatbed can't get to 90 degrees anymore because the PTC fuse trips.

What's a good way of getting rid of blue painters tape from PLA? Here is how all my prints have looked like on the bottom, this one in particular isn't as bad as most of my other prints. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43645231/photos/electro/printer/2014-12-20 16.53.29.jpg[/t] I print with my heatbed (60 degrees) on as well. Using just the tape or the heatbed always results in the PLA coming loose for some reason. I tried filing it off, but some particles are like infused with the plastic. [editline]20th December 2014[/editline] the prints are also impossible to pop off the plate. I always have to remove it along with the tape it's on and then peel of the tape afterwards. I'm pretty sure the tape is supposed to last atleast more than one print :v:

That's the result of having your bed temperature at 60. Generally you dont even need to heat your bed with PLA. If you have bed adhesion issues with just the blue painters tape, I find that wiping the tape down with rubbing alcohol works pretty well (for whatever reason).

[QUOTE=Timebomb575;46761549]That's the result of having your bed temperature at 60. Generally you dont even need to heat your bed with PLA. If you have bed adhesion issues with just the blue painters tape, I find that wiping the tape down with rubbing alcohol works pretty well (for whatever reason).[/QUOTE] u wot I've always had to use heat with my PLA, especially with fans. I had teh same problem scratch i tore the tape off and upped temp to 70, along with completely scraping my glass clean and cleaning it thoroughly. That fixed my problem.

I never knew people used blue tape on a heated bed. I used kapton and 60 for PLA until I discovered Elmars glue stick. That with 60 degree build plate is flawless for adhesion and then just freeze the build plate to free the prints

I got a can of hairspray lying around still. I could try using that with heatbed. I had a lot of issues with adhesion back in the day so I went for the blue tape + heatbed approach, and it does indeed stick very well. [editline]21st December 2014[/editline] just a heatbed (with glass of course) just doesn't seem to do it for me. Perhaps I should try cleaning it instead of trying it directly after removing the tape, seeing how that might not have helped.

I just use 60 degrees and clean glass plate with PLA, works like a charm assuming everything else is working fine (my printer regularly suffers issues with the bearings on the z axis meaning sometimes one end drops compared to the other)

[QUOTE=scratch (nl);46762495]I got a can of hairspray lying around still. I could try using that with heatbed. I had a lot of issues with adhesion back in the day so I went for the blue tape + heatbed approach, and it does indeed stick very well. [editline]21st December 2014[/editline] just a heatbed (with glass of course) just doesn't seem to do it for me. Perhaps I should try cleaning it instead of trying it directly after removing the tape, seeing how that might not have helped.[/QUOTE] I'm going to assume then you have either a shirt batch of pla, or maybe your heatbed thermistor is incorrect and you never actually reach 60

[QUOTE=paindoc;46762244]u wot I've always had to use heat with my PLA, especially with fans. I had teh same problem scratch i tore the tape off and upped temp to 70, along with completely scraping my glass clean and cleaning it thoroughly. That fixed my problem.[/QUOTE] Nope, Ive never had to heat my bed when printing PLA, the alcohol-blue tape combo has always worked for me. [editline]21st December 2014[/editline] Even in the Robo 3D manual they don't specify that you need to heat the bed for PLA

[QUOTE=paindoc;46763895]I'm going to assume then you have either a shirt batch of pla, or maybe your heatbed thermistor is incorrect and you never actually reach 60[/QUOTE] it's a roll of 1 kg for 23 euro, not really the best stuff out there. It's also not been properly stored either, just left on the printer in my room for months. [editline]21st December 2014[/editline] I can also imagine the thermistor being a bit off, perhaps above the actual temprature as it's on the bottom of the heatbed, meaning there's a fair distance between it and the surface of the glass plate (about 5mm) [editline]21st December 2014[/editline] I've ordered a sample pack from colorfabb, so I'll see if that gives better results.

Them feels when you print something and it works the first time without a hitch [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/62766551/3D%20Printing/PC230019.jpg[/t] [url]http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:603697[/url] I'm surprised that the tolerances on my printer allowed this to interconnect so snug because I've never had something slot into another thing like this and just work.

You guys looked into buildtak for your printbeds? It works great.

the surface of that kinda looks like my razer sphex mousepad. I really want to try that out now :v:

Made a butterfly knife, works really well. [T]http://i.imgur.com/QIIFwQr.jpg[/T] [T]http://i.imgur.com/K2FS0Rn.jpg[/T] [url]http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:590421[/url]

I'm kinda new to 3D printing, we have a pre-built one at the academy I go to and I kinda wanna build my own. I've been looking at this one: [url]http://www.replikeo.com/en/KIT001[/url] Can anyone tell me if this is a good beginners choice? It seems relatively cheap and it looks like it includes everything I need.

[QUOTE=thefreemann;46850986]I'm kinda new to 3D printing, we have a pre-built one at the academy I go to and I kinda wanna build my own. I've been looking at this one: [URL]http://www.replikeo.com/en/KIT001[/URL] Can anyone tell me if this is a good beginners choice? It seems relatively cheap and it looks like it includes everything I need.[/QUOTE] The power supply seems a bit shit but that kit is quite cheap for a 200mmx200mm envelope. The heavy gift card holder [URL]https://www.dropbox.com/s/u7lmwdjsdfifm8a/CAM00270.jpg?dl=0[/URL] [URL]https://www.dropbox.com/s/owjg10kl7smtbd9/CAM00269.jpg?dl=0[/URL] Also with buildtak theres no hassle with any gluesticks or hairsprays or whatever you need to use to make the print stick to the surface. You just put the buildtak on your glass plate and everything seems to just stick to it(Only printed with PLA and ABS so far) Here's a crappy paint job scorch shot I made [URL]https://www.dropbox.com/s/ea74zkrn6cszqqy/CAM00236.jpg?dl=0[/URL]

[QUOTE=thefreemann;46850986]I'm kinda new to 3D printing, we have a pre-built one at the academy I go to and I kinda wanna build my own. I've been looking at this one: [url]http://www.replikeo.com/en/KIT001[/url] Can anyone tell me if this is a good beginners choice? It seems relatively cheap and it looks like it includes everything I need.[/QUOTE] I have the iron frame version of this. If you are considering getting one, go for aluminum. It is a nice kit, was well packaged, however don't forget that you might have to pay customs as they are based in China ( i totally forgot about the customs :D ). The 3mm iron frame flexes quite alot, so I had to print support braces. I also had a problem with heatbed MOSFET going up in flames on the RAMPS board. Turned out there was a splash of soldermask on a SMD resistor solderpad. Cleaned that up, re-soldered the resistor in place and had no problems ever since.

[QUOTE=alexaz;46856279]I have the iron frame version of this. If you are considering getting one, go for aluminum. It is a nice kit, was well packaged, however don't forget that you might have to pay customs as they are based in China ( i totally forgot about the customs :D ). The 3mm iron frame flexes quite alot, so I had to print support braces. I also had a problem with heatbed MOSFET going up in flames on the RAMPS board. Turned out there was a splash of soldermask on a SMD resistor solderpad. Cleaned that up, re-soldered the resistor in place and had no problems ever since.[/QUOTE] So based on what you're saying this might not be the best choice for me? I'm just concerned something like that fire will happen and I will have no idea how to handle it :v: Also what's the difference between 1.75 and 3? Is any better than the other?

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBqxAQnitbQ&list=PLcvVpfU9LDuaT9meJWgylD8n-RLEyYWoO[/media] pretty impressive more people are attempting to print rc planes. I should post a video on a ninja flex print I made a while back. the filament is useful if you can use it right.

just received a prusa i3 kit and almost none of the printed parts seem to be made to spec and some are off by almost 1 mm. Most disappointing day this year by far.

[QUOTE=Keitaro;46867196]just received a prusa i3 kit and almost none of the printed parts seem to be made to spec and some are off by almost 1 mm. Most disappointing day this year by far.[/QUOTE] you cant expect perfect results on the first go, especially if you build with a kit it took me months, a rebuild, and 2 new print heads before I finally got my printer to where I wanted it [editline]6th January 2015[/editline] oh wow duh, you mean the parts to build your printer are off spec. that fucking blows, can you return them?

[QUOTE=Timebomb575;46869671]you cant expect perfect results on the first go, especially if you build with a kit it took me months, a rebuild, and 2 new print heads before I finally got my printer to where I wanted it [editline]6th January 2015[/editline] oh wow duh, you mean the parts to build your printer are off spec. that fucking blows, can you return them?[/QUOTE] Well it was bought from ebay and has hassle free returns so I should be able to return the kit without much issue, I just need the order information and/or for my family member to schedule the return as this was a christmas present. Also, they gave me the wrong y-carriage, and did not provide the correct number of bolts and bolt lengths for this kit as well so if they deny that I can say that the product was not as described and get a return that way.

I think I've narrowed down my issue with printing directly on my glass bed: it's not flat! when I put it on one way, the distance from the hotend to the plate is bigger in the middle than any of the sides, and the other way around it's obviously closer together in the center than at the edges. Seeing how I've read all over the place that levelling your bad is absolutely vital when printing on glass alone, I can see why I had so many issues with it. so yeah; how do you flatten a glass plate or should I not even bother with it and get a new plate. I wonder, would using a metal plate be of any use? I could roughen up the surface of it to provide a better surface for the filament to stick to.

[QUOTE=Keitaro;46870487]Well it was bought from ebay and has hassle free returns so I should be able to return the kit without much issue, I just need the order information and/or for my family member to schedule the return as this was a christmas present. Also, they gave me the wrong y-carriage, and did not provide the correct number of bolts and bolt lengths for this kit as well so if they deny that I can say that the product was not as described and get a return that way.[/QUOTE] That's awful QC. I'd be really pissed. If it was bought with PayPal then you can rest assured, PayPal will always stand with the buyer in cases like that.

I found a mirror at the 2nd hand store for one euro and it's perfectly flat I think, it's great :v: