[QUOTE=Zero-Point;47377500]So build one. You can do so for pretty cheap if you have even basic tools. It won't be the prettiest, best model out there, but it'll work enough for you to make parts for a more precise one down the line. That's what I plan on doing, anyway.[/QUOTE]Yeah I'd need a lot of help with that.
[QUOTE=Zero-Point;47377500]So build one. You can do so for pretty cheap if you have even basic tools. It won't be the prettiest, best model out there, but it'll work enough for you to make parts for a more precise one down the line. That's what I plan on doing, anyway.[/QUOTE]
How much does it cost to build one from scratch?
[QUOTE=Wickerman123;47378103]How much does it cost to build one from scratch?[/QUOTE]
I would assume it would depend on the materials you use, how big you want it to be, what type (delta or traditional cartesian), and where you buy the parts that you can't get at a local hardware store (ebay!).
Don't make a delta style printer is my only advice.
That's actually the type I was planning on building. Why would you suggest that?
[QUOTE=Zero-Point;47380792]That's actually the type I was planning on building. Why would you suggest that?[/QUOTE]
Easier to build a Cartesian from scratch.
Use that to make specific parts for the delta, and when done, cannibalize it for electronics and motors for the delta.
Well not only that, but the calibration and maintenance requirements for a delta are much more demanding than a cartesian. Cartesians outperform deltas at everything.
Anywho, I'm currently in the process of making my largest ABS print to date, its taking up the entire bed space.
[QUOTE=Van-man;47386487]Easier to build a Cartesian from scratch.
Use that to make specific parts for the delta, and when done, cannibalize it for electronics and motors for the delta.[/QUOTE]
Yeah, it'd be easier, but what's nice about deltas is you can easily scale them up in height like nobody's business. That and they just look damn cool. I'll either learn from this the hard way or not I guess. :v:
Just a PSA: Don't begin a multi-hour print with a fresh spool.
The line jumped the spool and wrapped around my spool holder when I was out to lunch, there was enough tension to rip the line.
Also linear infill sucks.
[QUOTE=Zero-Point;47377500]but it'll work enough for you to make parts for a more precise one down the line. That's what I plan on doing, anyway.[/QUOTE]
I always thought that was a joke
You can actually build sturdy enough parts with a poorly made 3D printer that are better than its own initial parts, well enough for it to essentially upgrade itself?
[QUOTE=Karmah;47393098]I always thought that was a joke
You can actually build sturdy enough parts with a poorly made 3D printer that are better than its own initial parts, well enough for it to essentially upgrade itself?[/QUOTE]
With enough calibration of it, then yeah.
[QUOTE=Karmah;47393098]I always thought that was a joke
You can actually build sturdy enough parts with a poorly made 3D printer that are better than its own initial parts, well enough for it to essentially upgrade itself?[/QUOTE]
Well you have to at least TRY to make a stable machine, which should be easy enough with all-thread and brass bushings, even. I'm not saying you can cobble together a 3D printer using duct-tape and bailing twine or anything. :v:
[T]http://u.limonene.net/IMG_20150324_235414.jpg[/t]
Excellent. Unlike the prints I did when I still lived with my parents there are no delamination along the sharper corners.
[url=http://www.makergeeks.com/gmhidewexsh3.html]I didn't know they made X-ray shielding polymers[/url]
What would be an ideal ambient temperature for printing in ABS?
Ive been messing with temperature settings for ages and I cant seem to shake the delamination issues Ive been having. At this point I think Ive narrowed it down to a draft or ambient temps that are too low.
Im thinking of just giving up on it until the weather warms up around here.
You generally want your ambient temperature as high as possible. That's why I bought a Solidoodle because it comes with a case.
If you have the space I'd suggest putting a cardboard box over your printer just to get the temperature up. Add Styrofoam for insulation if possible.
I have no idea if this was already posted in this thread or not, but I thought this was pretty neat.
[media]http://vimeo.com/91711011[/media]
Basically, stop motion animation with 3d printed models.
Which prusa i3 model should I get? I'm looking for affordability but I'm overwhelmed by all the variations.
[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;47440413]So its a soldering iron?[/QUOTE]
Basically but has some nifty tools and is more ergonomic than a soldering iron. Damn things are uncomfortable after a sustained period of use.
[QUOTE=Wickerman123;47441676]Basically but has some nifty tools and is more ergonomic than a soldering iron. Damn things are uncomfortable after a sustained period of use.[/QUOTE]
why have a sustained perioud of use cleaning 3d prints.
the soldering iron tips are nice.
I was thinking about getting a Prusa i3 full kit for $500. Tips, tricks, etc? Should I go cheaper for a first time printer, and if so, how cheap can I go?
What I [I]really[/I] want is a color printer. But somehow I don't think I'm getting that for less than $2,000 :v:
Also, how does printing with support material work? Do I have to manually change the filament and whatnot? That'd be a pain. What is support material made out of?
[QUOTE=Ithon;47441778]why have a sustained perioud of use cleaning 3d prints.
the soldering iron tips are nice.[/QUOTE]
I wasn't talking specifically about cleaning prints. I wish I had a printer... Just talking about soldering irons in general.
[QUOTE=Dr. Evilcop;47442628]I was thinking about getting a Prusa i3 full kit for $500. Tips, tricks, etc? Should I go cheaper for a first time printer, and if so, how cheap can I go?
What I [I]really[/I] want is a color printer. But somehow I don't think I'm getting that for less than $2,000 :v:
Also, how does printing with support material work? Do I have to manually change the filament and whatnot? That'd be a pain. What is support material made out of?[/QUOTE]
I think typically the support material is just the same filament, just not printed as densely as the rest of it so it's easier to remove.
[QUOTE=Zero-Point;47443369]I think typically the support material is just the same filament, just not printed as densely as the rest of it so it's easier to remove.[/QUOTE]
Huh, interesting. How does it not stick to the rest of the print? I've seen a couple videos of people removing support material, and all though it takes a little work to peel it away, it doesn't "stick" y'know?
[video=youtube;bnpEfRWqDKU]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bnpEfRWqDKU[/video]
[QUOTE=Wickerman123;47443155]I wasn't talking specifically about cleaning prints. I wish I had a printer... Just talking about soldering irons in general.[/QUOTE]
well the disadvantage of a super comfortable soldering iron is that you can forget out it, you don't forget about a hot soldering iron.
Though I've used high quality soldering irons, those felt alright and you didn't need them on all the time, took 6 seconds to reach heating time.
Well there is the option of 3D printing a sleeve.
[QUOTE=Dr. Evilcop;47444731]Huh, interesting. How does it not stick to the rest of the print? I've seen a couple videos of people removing support material, and all though it takes a little work to peel it away, it doesn't "stick" y'know?
[video=youtube;bnpEfRWqDKU]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bnpEfRWqDKU[/video][/QUOTE]
If you've ever worked with plastic sprues, its exactly like that.
[T]http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_-HZLorI1B0w/R0wiJPwlqUI/AAAAAAAAAd8/gXTif0-v3HU/s400/chterminatorF.jpg[/t]
Now if you have dual-extruders you can print with HIPS as the support material which doesn't bond to ABS all too well.
[Media]http://youtube.com/watch?v=WbggvdXT7D4[/media]
[editline]2nd April 2015[/editline]
[QUOTE=Dr. Evilcop;47442628]I was thinking about getting a Prusa i3 full kit for $500. Tips, tricks, etc? Should I go cheaper for a first time printer, and if so, how cheap can I go?
What I [I]really[/I] want is a color printer. But somehow I don't think I'm getting that for less than $2,000 :v:
Also, how does printing with support material work? Do I have to manually change the filament and whatnot? That'd be a pain. What is support material made out of?[/QUOTE]
If you think you need to spend money to print colour then you are very much mistaken.
Now if you want to print in multiple colours at a time then yes that costs $$$.
Prusa is good, I know a bunch of people here have them. Alternative considerations in that price range are Solidoodle and PrintrBot. And if I had to choose between the three I'd go with a PrintrBot metal, some of the mods people have made for that are ingenious.
As always [b]buy the heated bed option[/b].
Buy color I mean full color sandstone or RGB/CMYK plastic color mixing. My pipe dream for having a 3D printer is printing amiibo-like figures without having to paint them myself.
The Prusa i3 kit I want has the heated bed, I knew to look for that from reading around before :v:
PrintrBot metal sounds interesting, but I dunno if I'd actually find it as useful as a plastic printer.
[editline]2nd April 2015[/editline]
A dual extruder for printing support material in HIPS sounds nice. Is there a way to get that on the Prusa i3?
[QUOTE=Dr. Evilcop;47445841]Buy color I mean full color sandstone or RGB/CMYK plastic color mixing. My pipe dream for having a 3D printer is printing amiibo-like figures without having to paint them myself.
The Prusa i3 kit I want has the heated bed, I knew to look for that from reading around before :v:
PrintrBot metal sounds interesting, but I dunno if I'd actually find it as useful as a plastic printer.
[editline]2nd April 2015[/editline]
A dual extruder for printing support material in HIPS sounds nice. Is there a way to get that on the Prusa i3?[/QUOTE]
You could try to modify ink-jet cartridges to spray a bonding resin and use the powdered plastic-resin technique. :v:
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3D printer thread - what have you been printing?
