I don't know if using Shapeways counts but since I can't really spend the dosh on a 3D printer right now this is all I've got.
I've designed a frame for the Gopro HD Hero 2 (I guess it should work with the Hero as well) so I can use the all the jacks while it's mounted, the official skeleton case costs from 35 to 50 euro + shipping, this cost me 21 shipped.
I must say I'm impressed with the service, uploaded the model on the 14th (Sunday night) it said estimated to be shipped on the 24th, it got shipped on the 18th and a day later it's in my hands.
This was only a test to see what the material is like,how accurate it is and if it actually works.
It pretty good, I'm surprised, a few bits were a bit too thin maybe so I'm redesigning it and changing a few things, now that I know it works I can also add a few things I already had designed to make it more versatile.
Considering that I had left no tolerance on purpose between the two pieces (just to see if they matched perfectly) if fits fairly well.
[thumb]http://www.emanuelemonaco.com/images/diy/gopro_frame_test1/TDS_7569.jpg[/thumb]
[thumb]http://www.emanuelemonaco.com/images/diy/gopro_frame_test1/TDS_7571.jpg[/thumb]
[thumb]http://www.emanuelemonaco.com/images/diy/gopro_frame_test1/TDS_7572.jpg[/thumb]
[thumb]http://www.emanuelemonaco.com/images/diy/gopro_frame_test1/TDS_7573.jpg[/thumb]
[thumb]http://www.emanuelemonaco.com/images/diy/gopro_frame_test1/TDS_7574.jpg[/thumb]
[thumb]http://www.emanuelemonaco.com/images/diy/gopro_frame_test1/TDS_7575.jpg[/thumb]
[thumb]http://www.emanuelemonaco.com/images/diy/gopro_frame_test1/TDS_7580.jpg[/thumb]
[thumb]http://www.emanuelemonaco.com/images/diy/gopro_frame_test1/TDS_7581.jpg[/thumb]
[thumb]http://www.emanuelemonaco.com/images/diy/gopro_frame_test1/TDS_7582.jpg[/thumb]
Sorry for the quick photos, I should use a smaller aperture to have it all in focus but I couldn't be bothered with setting up some lights to do it properly.
Next I'm making a shock mount for a mic to use on it so I can have the mic plugged in and mounted on the camera itself.
EDIT: I forgot to mention that I made the model in Sketchup.
[QUOTE=BoSoZoku;40340042]stuff[/QUOTE]
That is really cool! Was that made with SLA or extrusion? What material is it?
[QUOTE=frozensoda;40342069]That is really cool! Was that made with SLA or extrusion? What material is it?[/QUOTE]
The material I choose (white strong and flexible is the name on shapeways) is printed by solidifying nylon (I think) powder layer after layer, from what I understand that would be SLA right? On the website it says SLS which I guess would be a variation of SLA or vice versa.
Extrusion is melting a plastic (PVA or stuff like that) filament and forcing through some kind of nozzle, which from what I gather is the most common and practical for home use, I guess working with powder would be quite a nightmare when you print in your room.
I just discovered this thread and thought I would post the only thing I ever got printed. It was also only a test I did with shapeways back in December.
[IMG]http://i49.tinypic.com/ac7885.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i49.tinypic.com/rixb0z.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i46.tinypic.com/i5sokg.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i50.tinypic.com/2hfp6s7.jpg[/IMG]
[QUOTE=BoSoZoku;40340042]I don't know if using Shapeways counts but since I can't really spend the dosh on a 3D printer right now this is all I've got.
I've designed a frame for the Gopro HD Hero 2 (I guess it should work with the Hero as well) so I can use the all the jacks while it's mounted, the official skeleton case costs from 35 to 50 euro + shipping, this cost me 21 shipped.
I must say I'm impressed with the service, uploaded the model on the 14th (Sunday night) it said estimated to be shipped on the 24th, it got shipped on the 18th and a day later it's in my hands.
This was only a test to see what the material is like,how accurate it is and if it actually works.
It pretty good, I'm surprised, a few bits were a bit too thin maybe so I'm redesigning it and changing a few things, now that I know it works I can also add a few things I already had designed to make it more versatile.
Considering that I had left no tolerance on purpose between the two pieces (just to see if they matched perfectly) if fits fairly well.
-pictures-
Sorry for the quick photos, I should use a smaller aperture to have it all in focus but I couldn't be bothered with setting up some lights to do it properly.
Next I'm making a shock mount for a mic to use on it so I can have the mic plugged in and mounted on the camera itself.
EDIT: I forgot to mention that I made the model in Sketchup.[/QUOTE]
With all that blur around it, it looks about 3 cm tall :v:
[QUOTE=Ldesu;40353804]With all that blur around it, it looks about 3 cm tall :v:[/QUOTE]
Well it is quite small, the case is 46mm tall after all, although I agree it seems like a scale model.
[QUOTE=BoSoZoku;40340042]I don't know if using Shapeways counts but since I can't really spend the dosh on a 3D printer right now this is all I've got.
I've designed a frame for the Gopro HD Hero 2 (I guess it should work with the Hero as well) so I can use the all the jacks while it's mounted, the official skeleton case costs from 35 to 50 euro + shipping, this cost me 21 shipped.
I must say I'm impressed with the service, uploaded the model on the 14th (Sunday night) it said estimated to be shipped on the 24th, it got shipped on the 18th and a day later it's in my hands.
This was only a test to see what the material is like,how accurate it is and if it actually works.
It pretty good, I'm surprised, a few bits were a bit too thin maybe so I'm redesigning it and changing a few things, now that I know it works I can also add a few things I already had designed to make it more versatile.
Considering that I had left no tolerance on purpose between the two pieces (just to see if they matched perfectly) if fits fairly well.
Sorry for the quick photos, I should use a smaller aperture to have it all in focus but I couldn't be bothered with setting up some lights to do it properly.
Next I'm making a shock mount for a mic to use on it so I can have the mic plugged in and mounted on the camera itself.
EDIT: I forgot to mention that I made the model in Sketchup.[/QUOTE]
This is most definitely very cool. I do all my CAD in sketchup as I have nothing else, seems to work fine with my printer because if I cant draw it in sketchup easily then it's probably too complex to print.
I find that the tolerances on mine depend on which axis. A neat trick I use for my nut traps I tend to embed in things is to make the hexagon the exact same size in sketchup as in real life, then to make it fit, heat the but on the end of a long bolt with a lighter and then seat it with a little force meaning the nut sticks in place snugly.
[QUOTE=metallics;40371257]This is most definitely very cool. I do all my CAD in sketchup as I have nothing else, seems to work fine with my printer because if I cant draw it in sketchup easily then it's probably too complex to print.
I find that the tolerances on mine depend on which axis. A neat trick I use for my nut traps I tend to embed in things is to make the hexagon the exact same size in sketchup as in real life, then to make it fit, heat the but on the end of a long bolt with a lighter and then seat it with a little force meaning the nut sticks in place snugly.[/QUOTE]
I've done this, except I set the nut atop where it needs to fit, and heat it with a soldering iron.
[editline]dicks[/editline]
I've waited 4 months to fix that typo.
YSB has released another model and is just about to release even ANOTHER model all for free. But alas, I have no filament and no money :(
[QUOTE=metallics;40371257]This is most definitely very cool. I do all my CAD in sketchup as I have nothing else, seems to work fine with my printer because if I cant draw it in sketchup easily then it's probably too complex to print.
I find that the tolerances on mine depend on which axis. A neat trick I use for my nut traps I tend to embed in things is to make the hexagon the exact same size in sketchup as in real life, then to make it fit, heat the but on the end of a long bolt with a lighter and then seat it with a little force meaning the nut sticks in place snugly.[/QUOTE]
That's a great idea! (heating to make it fit snug)
As far as precision goes yes different axis have different levels of precision, Z axis seems to be the most precise (at least with their printer but if I'm not mistaken it seems to be for most printers), the only problem is that using Shapeways you are not garenteed that they will place the model in the same orientation as your file since the print multiple models at once.
Cant believe there is a thread like this! At school we have some sort of dimension printer that i cant remember off the top of my head, and since i am the one who fixed it, driver issues and head clogging, i can pretty much print whatever i want, as long as it doesnt get crazy.
A while back i printed out a small fan then used a 3v brushed motor that i ended up melting the brushes three times on before giving up on fixing them. Anyways, that thing moved some air! Ill take some pictures in a while.
Specs of the printer....
Printable area: 8x8x12z
Resolution: 1/10000, 1/10000, 1/100z
Material: Generic ABS plastic (white grey blue green red) , Breakaway support material
Interesting facts: Has ability to fill thick models with a honeycomb pattern to save plastic, although not sure if this is special or not
[QUOTE=ricky23;40396118]Cant believe there is a thread like this! At school we have some sort of dimension printer that i cant remember off the top of my head, and since i am the one who fixed it, driver issues and head clogging, i can pretty much print whatever i want, as long as it doesnt get crazy.
A while back i printed out a small fan then used a 3v brushed motor that i ended up melting the brushes three times on before giving up on fixing them. Anyways, that thing moved some air! Ill take some pictures in a while.
Specs of the printer....
Printable area: 8x8x12z
Resolution: 1/10000, 1/10000, 1/100z
Material: Generic ABS plastic (white grey blue green red) , Breakaway support material
Interesting facts: Has ability to fill thick models with a honeycomb pattern to save plastic, although not sure if this is special or not[/QUOTE]
8x8x12 what? can't believe thats mm :v
The honeycomb thing is a pretty standard trait, although it depends on what slicer you use as to how they go about it.
Actually that's a point, what slicers do people use? I've been fighting with skeinforge of late, which slicely nicely, but the all the variables to configure are just all over the place.
Still using the default skeinforge that came with Solidoodle's pack. Kinda slow and has no support material but it works for me.
[QUOTE=adam1172;40398932]Still using the default skeinforge that came with Solidoodle's pack. Kinda slow and has no support material but it works for me.[/QUOTE]
The version I have is certainly configurable to print support, but all my attempts so far have either resulted in support that is impossible to removed as there is so much of it or the model sagging. I'm probably missing something somewhere but so far it's been no massive problem and just requires a bit of thought at the design stage.
[QUOTE=metallics;40398283]8x8x12 what? can't believe thats mm :v
The honeycomb thing is a pretty standard trait, although it depends on what slicer you use as to how they go about it.
Actually that's a point, what slicers do people use? I've been fighting with skeinforge of late, which slicely nicely, but the all the variables to configure are just all over the place.[/QUOTE]
Schwoops, all measurements were in inches. And I use the CatalystEX that came with it as its relatively good. The only thing that you have to do is decide which axis would look/work th best with a lower resolution, seeing how X and y are 1/10000in and z is 1/100, the thickness of the plastic.
It's a very, very smart printer, for example I printed out a 12inch propeller blade standing vertical, and as it got to the top, it knew it was going to wobble so it started slowing down. Bad idea to print 3 at once. It took 43 hours
I use repitier-host which was customized for the Solidoodle 3 it uses a version of slic3r for the actual slicing It is a very nice and easy combination. Some of the other solidoodlers like to use KISSlicer
btw: I know garry said in the rules of this forum that he wanted to avoid discussion style threads like this one, but I didn't want to make another post every time I print something. If this is how it *should* be then lock this thread and that is how I will do it. Thanks
I also use repetier but slic3r produced much worse results than skeinforge when I tried it, maybe Id just set it up wrong but since my rig is totally homebuilt it comes down to a lot of arbitrary number setting till it can be worked out. Also this thread is lively and has good content I dont think theres an issue with it, otherwise itd be locked by now. Gary was in here the other day.
How much do 3D Printers usually beat out of your wallet?
I had the idea to print Guitar knobs, and knob replacements for amplifiers and whatnot.
If the materials are good enough, could even start printing guitar nuts and picks
[QUOTE=AugustBurnsRed;40443752]How much do 3D Printers usually beat out of your wallet?
I had the idea to print Guitar knobs, and knob replacements for amplifiers and whatnot.
If the materials are good enough, could even start printing guitar nuts and picks[/QUOTE]
Depends which costs you mean and whether you have the skill set/tool set/time to build your own. If so you can probably make one for around £100, otherwise bought in they're double that and upwards.
The cost of printing stuff depends on the material. White PLA is fairly cheap at around £20 for 100m (which will print a fair old bit, takes me about 3 months to get through 100m), colours add more to the price slightly, and you can buy more expensive materials with different properties, dependant on what additives there are in the plastic.
I have been printing tons of lithophanes
[url]http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:74322[/url]
-snip
What I would print by now is a container for the thread ''How to create a ghetto airconditioner''.
Our household doesn't have ANY useful container at all. Except empty paintcans.
lithophanes
4 part raster-bated lithophane
3d printed bracelet
[url]http://imgur.com/a/EFOqk#0[/url]
This looks incredibly cool:
[url]http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:92172[/url]
Is the MakerBot Replicator 2 worth two grand? I'm willing to spend that much if its actually that good. They've got a couple at my school but I won't be back to try them until the beginning of next school year and I'd like to get into this before then.
Seeing as I've never used a 3D printer, would it be advisable to start with something more entry level?
[QUOTE=Most wanteD;40769242]Is the MakerBot Replicator 2 worth two grand? I'm willing to spend that much if its actually that good. They've got a couple at my school but I won't be back to try them until the beginning of next school year and I'd like to get into this before then.
Seeing as I've never used a 3D printer, would it be advisable to start with something more entry level?[/QUOTE]
They are all pretty much the same regardless of what their salesmen will tell you. The main difference is the level of maintenance, and ease of software. For example I have a solidoodle 3 it cost me $800 and the only real problem I have is banding. Banding seems to be an issue across all machines though. I do have to reallign my belts and make sure the tension is good every 4 or 5 prints but that could be best practices anyway. I can tell you that makerbots support is better post purchase than solidoodle.
edited I mean reprap based machines ofc
[QUOTE=frozensoda;40769862]They are all pretty much the same regardless of what their salesmen will tell you. The main difference is the level of maintenance, and ease of software. For example I have a solidoodle 3 it cost me $800 and the only real problem I have is banding. Banding seems to be an issue across all machines though. I do have to reallign my belts and make sure the tension is good every 4 or 5 prints but that could be best practices anyway. I can tell you that makerbots support is better post purchase than solidoodle.
edited I mean reprap based machines ofc[/QUOTE]
Strange that it needs so much maintenance. I only need to tighten the belts every few complete reels of PLA it prints.
[QUOTE=metallics;40775303]Strange that it needs so much maintenance. I only need to tighten the belts every few complete reels of PLA it prints.[/QUOTE]
haha I am generally pretty rough on stuff. Hazard of being me lol
I would not personally recommend a Makerbot for the money. Aftermarket support for repraps is just as good if not better and you can get more features for the price. PM me if you want some recommendations
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3D printer thread - what have you been printing?
