[QUOTE=Teippiman;47511303]If you're ready to pay for a more expensive one then yes. We have 2 printers at our school. The cheaper one is 1500€ and students can use it but it's not as accurate as the other one, the 2nd costs around 7000€ but it can detailed things pretty well but students cant use it because we might "Break" it[/QUOTE]
To be fair I've heard of people breaking small things on 3D printers by doing things as simple as printing a model at the upper bounds of its print area.
And when tech things break at a school instead of letting anyone fix it (if anyone knows how) they typically spend a ton of cash to get someone to come in and do it.
[QUOTE=deathmog;47508790]I've been thinking about getting into 3D printing.
I've been looking at the printrbots, what do you guys think of them?
The wooden one is certainly more attractive to me because of the price point, but do you guys know how good it is for the money?
I know it'd be better to save up more for the Metal one - but I was just wondering if the wooden one is worth the cash.[/QUOTE]
I've got a Printrbot Simple that I'm working with. Honestly, it's pretty sweet. Gets down to some fine adjustments if you assemble it correctly, and can produce preeeeetty high quality prints without trouble. Plus, since it's somewhat homebrew-ey, you can build it out to have a much larger printing area without having to butcher original parts or hardware.
[QUOTE=ramirez!;47513460]I've got a Printrbot Simple that I'm working with. Honestly, it's pretty sweet. Gets down to some fine adjustments if you assemble it correctly, and can produce preeeeetty high quality prints without trouble. Plus, since it's somewhat homebrew-ey, you can build it out to have a much larger printing area without having to butcher original parts or hardware.[/QUOTE]
Could you perhaps print a figure for us to see? Say, maybe 5 inches tall? That's roughly amiibo sized.
[QUOTE=joshjet;47501373]That's a whole hell of a lot better than some of the stuff I did, but I had some pretty big kinks in the process that kept me from getting great quality. I printed a part, cast that part in silicone, used that mold to cast wax that I used for lost wax casting. It had a sort of photocopy of a photocopy thing going on, so it had a lot of defects, but holding a metal object that you created on a computer is just awesome.[/QUOTE]
I realized i didn't even reply to 90% of this post.
I printed it in wax and centrifugally cast the metal, the wax formed really well and i got these for free for helping out a jewler with another project, and part of that project was about centrifugal casting having fidelity up to .03 of a millimeter, which he was not lying about. He wanted to have four moving parts on a pendant that could fit on the face of a toonie, and i built it with tolerances around .02 mm and it came out almost bang on. So i wouldn't be so hard on your results, traditional sand casting is rougher, but your chain probably didn't help. As for the other thing, I was hoping that it would've cast so well that it wouldn't need much finishing, but the metal wasn't as good as he was hoping and came out kinda rough so i needed to add about .5mm to the moving parts to be machined down. Which was fine since i had to add some more taps to the shapes anyway.
What's funny is that the other thing was cast in white gold and came out slightly roughed, but the bronze cast super flat and smooth.
[T]http://puu.sh/gD54g/5cec0db475.jpg[/T]
jewlery metallurgy is weird man, got priorities all kinds of backwards
Thinking about this one - [URL=https://www.3dprintersonlinestore.com/dual-extruder-prusa-i3-kit]Geeetech Prusa i3 with Dual Extruder kit[/URL]
Has a heated bed, dual extruder, and ~7.8x7.8x7.0 inch print area. Pretty much everything I wanted. Any thoughts?
new cooling duct get
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43645231/photos/electro/printer/2015-04-13%2019.34.20.jpg[/t]
so far it seems to blow at a pretty equal force all around it, just as hoped!
[editline]13th April 2015[/editline]
I just realized a huge issue with it: I usually pluck away some filament that piles up at the start of each filament to keep the print going, but I can't do that now anymore. What results is my prints always turning into a big blob of plastic :v:
[url]https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/tiko3d/tiko-the-unibody-3d-printer?ref=producthunt[/url]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/2jb8CsE.gif[/img]
ITS AN ADORABLE TINY DELTA
I WANT 10
[QUOTE=Timebomb575;47523520][url]https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/tiko3d/tiko-the-unibody-3d-printer?ref=producthunt[/url]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/2jb8CsE.gif[/img]
ITS AN ADORABLE TINY DELTA
I WANT 10[/QUOTE]
Normally I shun the ever flowing torrent of shitty kickstarter printers, but this one actually looks decent. I think they're trying a bunch of stuff that won't really work right though. Especially the build platform, they're trying to make it flexible but I think it'll just end up never being level.
[QUOTE=joshjet;47523601]Normally I shun the ever flowing torrent of shitty kickstarter printers, but this one actually looks decent. I think they're trying a bunch of stuff that won't really work right though. Especially the build platform, they're trying to make it flexible but I think it'll just end up never being level.[/QUOTE]
Yeah I dont really see how it could possibly return to perfect flatness ever time after you twist it.
Then again the weight of the printer pressing down on the edges might be enough to get a flat build surface.
[editline]14th April 2015[/editline]
I also still dont trust those "proprietary build platform coatings" that can somehow print ABS unheated, but I dont really know enough about them to pick them apart from a technical perspective.
[editline]14th April 2015[/editline]
Nonetheless, $179 is unbelievably reasonable.
[editline]14th April 2015[/editline]
And at the very least, even if it isn't going to be as adaptable or fine-tunable as a more expensive kit build or something like a Printrbot or a Robo, its something that an entry-level user can buy to figure out the fundamentals, or that a slightly less tech-savy consumer might be able to figure out, without breaking the bank.
[QUOTE='Rain [Amber];47511122']Are 3d printers at the point yet where you can print detailed things and they look half decent? I always thought it'd be cool to print out 3d models I make of characters from games etc and in a very broad sense make my own figures and paint them
But I don't think that'll be a thing for a long while[/QUOTE]
If you just get a normal additive printer then you can get some fairly decent prints. My UP Mini's the cheapest and shittiest little printer you can get in NZ that isn't self made and it still managed to print with surprisingly good detail.
But shit gets stupid accurate if you have some place nearby with a sintering printer. Those are mostly for workshops and universities, but my local 3D lab has a little model radial engine and moving propeller, printed as one piece and accurate down to little millimeter-thick tubing.
For reference, this is a real radial engine.
[img]http://thumbs.dreamstime.com/x/radial-engine-1766693.jpg[/img]
Right, my Bfb3000 is outdated and now unusable.
Steppers are all screeching and jerky, electronics are rusty as anything after being put into storage while we build a new workshop. :(
Fails to even start its firmware roughly %80 of the time, takes nearly 30-40 mins just to get the damm thing to turn on.
Nuff of the text, I need a new machine. I've been away from the printing scene and need something that 's not gonna set me back another £1000, £500 at the most. Pre-built or kit.
Anyone care to enlighten me?
I'd go with a Printrbot Metal.
This was my first larger print (took around 3 days of solid printing).
[t]http://i.imgur.com/yIDiet0.jpg[/t]
[url]http://imgur.com/a/AcM2F[/url] (More pics)
Got the awesome model off thingiverse: [url]www.thingiverse.com/thing:44148[/url]
I just got blue filament in the mail.
I now know what I have to do.
[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;47540117]I just got blue filament in the mail.
I now know what I have to do.[/QUOTE]
gotta print fast
Here is one of the very first high detail prints I did about 4/5 years ago, It currently sits on display at my old academy.
18 hour print, and the cleaners thought it'd be a good idea to unplug when I was going through some test prints; rage insured.
[T]http://i.imgur.com/qq2NgkL.png[/T]
Couldn't have a sentry without a dispenser...
[t]http://i.imgur.com/OBQ4nTo.jpg[/t]
Did you print that as one piece then paint it or is it multiple pieces?
[QUOTE=Jonzky;47551404]Couldn't have a sentry without a dispenser...
[t]http://i.imgur.com/OBQ4nTo.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]
Looks really nice, other than those cylinders. Have you tried increasing the shell thinkness then sanding it down a bit to make them smoother?
Well it looks like the low-poly effect on the cylinders is a quality of the model itself. He could probably fix it if he wanted but personally I don't see why, I think it makes it feel more like TF2.
[QUOTE=joshjet;47552860]Well it looks like the low-poly effect on the cylinders is a quality of the model itself. He could probably fix it if he wanted but personally I don't see why, I think it makes it feel more like TF2.[/QUOTE]
I mean, 3D rendering has smooth shading, real life does not :v:
You could sand it down or just refine the model a bit to be more rounded there. To each their own, though.
Alternatively, do what I did and make a ghetto vaporbath out of a metal bucket, a handful of magnets, some tinfoil and a shitload of paper towels.
Makes smoothing easy as shit, plus it makes models printed with white filament look like fine china :v:.
I plan on stopping by a thrift shop nearby to grab a crock pot and use that, though I'm also thinking about retrofitting an aquarium. Probably hugely overkill though.
[QUOTE=joshjet;47552914]I plan on stopping by a thrift shop nearby to grab a crock pot and use that, though I'm also thinking about retrofitting an aquarium. Probably hugely overkill though.[/QUOTE]
Aquariums tend to be sealed with slicone, doesn't acetone affect silicone?
[QUOTE=Zero-Point;47552974]Aquariums tend to be sealed with slicone, doesn't acetone affect silicone?[/QUOTE]
Reading up on it, apparently extended exposure does indeed completely loosen silicone sealings, so if I were you I'd stick to metal.
It also apparently loosens half-dried epoxies, superglues and, obviously, completely melts anything made of ABS which is almost everything these days.
Also, I'd recommend making yourself some ABS putty. You do that by stuffing all your extra ABS shavings and scaffolding scraps into a big glass jar and then filling that up with acetone. If you get the ratio just right, you get a liquid with about the consistency of PVA glue that does wonders for sealing up seams and errors.
[QUOTE=Pilotguy97;47553121]Reading up on it, apparently extended exposure does indeed completely loosen silicone sealings, so if I were you I'd stick to metal.
It also apparently loosens half-dried epoxies, superglues and, obviously, completely melts anything made of ABS which is almost everything these days.[/QUOTE]
All those old ugly beige (which used to be a nice shade of grey before yellowing) computers were ABS as well.
[QUOTE=Pilotguy97;47553121]Reading up on it, apparently extended exposure does indeed completely loosen silicone sealings, so if I were you I'd stick to metal.
It also apparently loosens half-dried epoxies, superglues and, obviously, completely melts anything made of ABS which is almost everything these days.
Also, I'd recommend making yourself some ABS putty. You do that by stuffing all your extra ABS shavings and scaffolding scraps into a big glass jar and then filling that up with acetone. If you get the ratio just right, you get a liquid with about the consistency of PVA glue that does wonders for sealing up seams and errors.[/QUOTE]
ABS slurry is shit for smoothing though, I've tried it and it just ends up getting a really gooey ugly coating, and you get stuck between a thin white membrane type thing if you use too much acetone, to a clumpy mess if you use too much ABS. Same deal with trying a watered down acetone mix, white film if there's too much acetone, and it ends up not doing jack shit if there's too much water. It's better than the putty though, but you can never get an even coating. That's why I want to do a vapor chamber.
3D printer thread - what have you been printing?
