Some stuff I printed a while ago. Haven't been doing much lately.
[T]http://i.imgur.com/SN9Z4eV.jpg[/T]
[T]http://i.imgur.com/OUjguHQ.jpg[/T]
[QUOTE=LegoGuy;47897945]So I posted a thread [URL="http://facepunch.com/showthread.php?t=1469657&p=4789794"]here[/URL], and someone told me that this place existed, so... here's what I posted.
Hey, guys. I'm getting a customized 3D printer that's based on the Prusa i3, (Just so you guys know what I'm working with) and I was thinking of what filaments I should use?
A friend of mine suggested PLA since it's less toxic(?) than ABS and said something about me not wanting to print using ABS in my room.
However, a guy I know who teaches robotics for a living suggested ABS since PLA dissolves in water, apparently. I don't know, I'm new to all this.
So, here are my questions.
What kind of filament should I use? What are the benefits and drawbacks of ABS and PLA?
Is it possible to get support material that dissolves?[/QUOTE]
ABS can smell pretty bad when printing (don't think there is anything harmful about it), can be a shade more expensive than PLA but I don't think there is much in it. The higher melting point can be desirable in some circumstances. It is much more difficult to get ABS to stick reliably to the bed, with PLA just a heated glass plate is sufficient but with ABS I have to use kapton tape or hairspray otherwise it starts to lift off the bed as it cools ruining the print.
I have not had any problems with PLA being water soluble.
I have come across your final question in aerospace 3d printers (expensive) where the parts are made from some form of UV cured resin. I don't know the ins and outs of it but eseentially yes but not in an extruded fillament printer to the best of my knowledge.
My advice would be to have both handy - they each have their own pros and cons, but perhaps start with PLA I find it a bit more forgiving when it comes to set up and calibration.
[url]http://www.protoparadigm.com/news-updates/3d-printer-filament-buyers-guide/[/url]
[QUOTE=LegoGuy;47897945]So I posted a thread [URL="http://facepunch.com/showthread.php?t=1469657&p=4789794"]here[/URL], and someone told me that this place existed, so... here's what I posted.
Hey, guys. I'm getting a customized 3D printer that's based on the Prusa i3, (Just so you guys know what I'm working with) and I was thinking of what filaments I should use?
A friend of mine suggested PLA since it's less toxic(?) than ABS and said something about me not wanting to print using ABS in my room.
However, a guy I know who teaches robotics for a living suggested ABS since PLA dissolves in water, apparently. I don't know, I'm new to all this.
So, here are my questions.
What kind of filament should I use? What are the benefits and drawbacks of ABS and PLA?
Is it possible to get support material that dissolves?[/QUOTE]
ABS is the same plastic Lego is made from. Yes the fumes it produces are nauseating, but as long as you keep a window or two open they are harmless.
PLA is essentially polymerized plant matter, in fact you can make home made filament that way (with a proper filament extruder).
Toxicity wise, neither of them are more dangerous than the other (fumes excluded). Do bare in mind neither polymer is considered food-safe in comparison to some of the filaments available from Taulman3D.
One thing to keep in mind that while ABS prints at a higher temperature, it also requires less force to extrude and is significantly less brittle. It does have a lower specific temperature so it will cool faster than PLA, which has its upsides and downsides. You can do a lot more with over hangs and the like whereas PLA will ooze more, on the flip side that means PLA will layer better, but it also runs the risk of jamming your printer more often.
I don't use PLA primarily because it jams my extruder every time I use it.
I'd say use PLA. Honestly Cakebatyr thats either a function of your extruder or the filament you have acquired; I've been around a fairly large printfarm and they actually have LESS problems with PLA but I'm blaming that on their extruders as well.
PLA is easier to start with and adheres so much easier, and if done right you won't even need a heated bed. Ultimachine makes really great stuff imo, matterhackers is decent their filament hasn't jammed or anything but the tolerances aren't the best. Nice colors though and great prices.
PVA is water soluble support material. Its bloody expensive, but otherwise it works quite well and is analogous to PLA. Some slight work may be needed to get it to work though, and you should still use Autodesk Meshmixer for making support structures. Don't use any of the slicers default support modes, they're all pretty fucking awful.
Here's slic3r support:
[t]http://i.imgur.com/qwRTv6i.png[/t]
And here's meshmixer with slic3r still slicing:
[t]http://i.imgur.com/l6EyHXt.png[/t]
Its so much easier to clean off as well.
[QUOTE=LegoGuy;47897945]So, here are my questions.
What kind of filament should I use? What are the benefits and drawbacks of ABS and PLA?
Is it possible to get support material that dissolves?[/QUOTE]
To answer one question, if you use HIPS with ABS, you can dissolve the HIPS without damaging the ABS.
That said, HIPS doesn't bind very strongly to ABS, so you should be able to peel it off even without dissolving it (perhaps with a bit of sanding).
[video=youtube;Ow__9LWpCJA]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ow__9LWpCJA[/video]
[video=youtube;483KRJ7HgJA]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=483KRJ7HgJA[/video]
I'm looking for a 3D printer that can do semi-metallic filaments like bronzefill PLA and metallic ABS. What should I look for? Looking at spending up to $1200 AUD max.
You'll want heat for that, I'd tentatively suggest a Printrbot Metal w/heated bed,
I'd recommend something that you can easily swap out/replace the nozzle. It may not be Bronzefill, but there are a few metalic filaments that can wear down smaller nozzle diameters pretty fast.
Maybe look into how well you can fit an E3D hotend.
[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;47947573]You'll want heat for that, I'd tentatively suggest a Printrbot Metal w/heated bed,
I'd recommend something that you can easily swap out/replace the nozzle. It may not be Bronzefill, but there are a few metalic filaments that can wear down smaller nozzle diameters pretty fast.
Maybe look into how well you can fit an E3D hotend.[/QUOTE]
The Printerbot Metal looks good, I don't know where to get the version with the heated bed.
I was looking at one of the "assemble yourself" 3D printers like the "Geeetech Acrylic I3".
Are the printers you have to assemble going to be much of an issue for a beginner?
Can you just add a heated bed or does the printer need to be able to control it?
I'm cool with having a computer next to it. I can plug it into my file server and remote in.
I'm looking at this Arduino powered unit [url]http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SINTRON-3D-Printer-full-complete-Kit-for-Reprap-Prusa-i3-MK3-LCD-MK8-extruder-/161566132952?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item259e178ad8[/url]
Also this [url]http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-Makerbot-Replicator-2-3D-Printer-2-Extruders-1KG-ABS-or-PLA-filament-/331530611071?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item4d30c3a97f[/url]
Here's the [URL=http://printrbot.com/shop/assembled-simple-metal-with-heated-bed/]heated bed version[/URL].
I don't have any experience with Prusa i3s, but I know a lot of people have them. And the Sintron is controlled by a RAMPS unit, so you've got some good upgrade options.
Most "standardized" heated beds nowadays are 8"x8", so if you've got that set they're all plug and play from there.
And last but not least: check out [url=http://octoprint.org/]Octoprint[/url], and its pre-assembled Raspberry Pi version OctoPi. This is what I plug my printer into.
I'm finally printing again after starting with a fresh version of marlin, slic3r, and pronterface, some [url=http://i.imgur.com/2ro7sg0.jpg]z-probe issues[/url], octoprint crapping out on me, [url=http://i.imgur.com/ZreH0be.jpg]finally getting a cooling fan again[/url], and one [url=http://i.imgur.com/ZZlatnA.jpg]semi-bad head crash at the end of a print[/url]!
It's really nice to have the printer humming away next to me again, being able to make objects from files doesn't really get old. Now I just need to recalibrate the printer and extrusion to get accurately shaped holes, and maybe switch to a slicer that doesn't ignore the width of the extruded plastic so that I can print things that actually fit together without a whole shitload of sanding, or tweaking of hole sizes.
I also managed to print a key cover that fits closely enough not to feel like complete crap, although I'll need to redesign it a little because it's a very tight fit into the car, and I still don't have a spot to put it onto a keyring. It works pretty great as a proof-of-concept though!
[t]http://i.imgur.com/JejmSIu.jpg[/t]
Gave PLA a go again. Different spool, different maker.
It clogged within 10 minutes :(
[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;47999587]Gave PLA a go again. Different spool, different maker.
It clogged within 10 minutes :([/QUOTE]
Printer issue then. You probably have some weird nozzle. Sometimes the liner can be more sticky for pla, there are methods for cleaning it though. I have honestly never seen anyone have this many problems with pla though it's usually abs that is a pain in the ass for most people
[img]http://i.imgur.com/o3paTy5.jpg?1[/img]
This overhang is scaring me.
[editline]18th June 2015[/editline]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/F9qUfay.jpg?1[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/4v5xwVH.jpg?1[/t]
Hell yeah!
12.5 hours of printing later, I've got myself a nice T-rex skull!
[QUOTE=Lapsus;48000914][img]http://i.imgur.com/o3paTy5.jpg?1[/img]
This overhang is scaring me.
[editline]18th June 2015[/editline]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/F9qUfay.jpg?1[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/4v5xwVH.jpg?1[/t]
Hell yeah!
12.5 hours of printing later, I've got myself a nice T-rex skull![/QUOTE]
Since it's snot green it BETTER glow in the dark.
Ordered nine 8mm rods from VXB, 2/3rds of them come bent out of spec by like 1-3mm.
bah
[QUOTE=Lapsus;48000914][t]http://i.imgur.com/4v5xwVH.jpg?1[/t]
Hell yeah!
12.5 hours of printing later, I've got myself a nice T-rex skull![/QUOTE]
Holy shit I am now jealous of 3D printing, that is absolutely great. Decorative.
[QUOTE=ramirez!;48007359]Ordered nine 8mm rods from VXB, 2/3rds of them come bent out of spec by like 1-3mm.
bah[/QUOTE]
Yeah, I was considering getting some from them but most of the reviews said that they came bent.
[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;48007801]Yeah, I was considering getting some from them but most of the reviews said that they came bent.[/QUOTE]
Emailed their support and apparently they're sending another set out after double checking them, and with a return sticker for the bent ones.
Is this printer any good? [url]http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-Makerbot-Replicator-2-3D-Printer-2-Extruders-1KG-ABS-or-PLA-filament-/331530611071?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item4d30c3a97f[/url]
What's the advantage to Cylindrical 3D printers?
[url]http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Kossel-Delta-3D-Printer-Kit-2020-linear-rails-geared-extruder-Green-/361296019796?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item541eebc154[/url]
[QUOTE=RoboChimp;48016311]Is this printer any good? [url]http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-Makerbot-Replicator-2-3D-Printer-2-Extruders-1KG-ABS-or-PLA-filament-/331530611071?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item4d30c3a97f[/url]
What's the advantage to Cylindrical 3D printers?
[url]http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Kossel-Delta-3D-Printer-Kit-2020-linear-rails-geared-extruder-Green-/361296019796?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item541eebc154[/url][/QUOTE]
[url]http://printspace3d.com/cartesian-vs-delta-printers-work/[/url]
Long story short: if you're gonna be printing wide objects then Cartesian, if it's tall objects then Delta.
They have some other differences, but that's the essential knowledge.
Finally cooled down enough for me to get about declogging.
If you don't own a set of [url=http://www.amazon.ca/US-Forge-Welding-Cleaner-No-00802/dp/B000UVR0NO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1435880349&sr=8-2]welding tip cleaners[/url] I highly recommend them for getting into the hot end.
so, turns out Repetierhost 1.0.6 freaks out when I turn the heatbed on (printer works fine and goes to set temperature, but repetierhost stops receiving data, does not happen when I turn anything else like nozzle on)
To see if it was consistend, I tried installing repetierhost 0.95F, but that one crashes on launch :v:
tl;dr what software do you guys use for printing besides repetierhost and pronterface (as last time I tried it it sucked balls)
I have [url=http://octoprint.org/]OctoPrint[/url] running on a Raspberry Pi model B.
Everything is done via a web interface on my local network.
Set up octoprint and it works, except it decided it was done with a print when in reality it was at 50% of said print. It didn't lose conection, it showed that it was 100% done, and continued doing the normal final steps like nothing was wrong.
Okay, so I've got a question for you guys. I've got access to a free 3D printer at my university. I've got a Raspberry Pi. I'm reasonably decent with a soldering iron. What's the cheapest way I can get a 3D printer for myself, and what sort of budget am I looking at?
Check out the [URL=http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3[/url]Prusa i3[/url] page on reprap.org.
All the printable parts are on that webpage. As well as a list of non-printable parts.
So I'm still looking at about $500 even with the printed parts? At those prices, I could consider a full kit instead.
Is it possible to 3D print transparent plastic like for a visor or something, or is that not feasible because of the way it's printed out?
I'm going to buy a Makerfarm 8" i3v kit soon, will this power supply work?
[url]http://www.amazon.com/Switching-Power-Supply-Strip-Light/dp/B007MWNF5Q[/url]
Also I need to buy an 8"x8" piece of glass, will regular window glass do? Or do I need something special for the heat that the heated bed will generate?
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3D printer thread - what have you been printing?
