3D printer thread - what have you been printing?

[Te Great Skeeve]

Can somebody tell me if this is any good? I am getting it for free so I don't care but I would like to know if it's actually usable.

[url]http://reprap.org/wiki/Smartrap_mini[/url]

[Mr Uber Ostrich]

The fifth floor of my university has quite a few 3d printers in a big multimedia lab for students to use. I absolutely cannot wait to start classes this fall and maybe try my hand at printing.

[Cakebatyr]

[QUOTE=ElectricSquid;48123537]Is it possible to 3D print transparent plastic like for a visor or something, or is that not feasible because of the way it's printed out?[/QUOTE]

ABS and PLA are naturally translucent. But if you want clear I recommend a Taulman3D product called T-Glase, its also foodsafe.

Well the plastic is before printing. If you heavily use other plastics in your printer it may not be...

[ElectricSquid]

[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;48124714]ABS and PLA are naturally translucent. But if you want clear I recommend a Taulman3D product called T-Glase, its also foodsafe.

Well the plastic is before printing. If you heavily use other plastics in your printer it may not be...[/QUOTE]

The intended application would be a visor for a cosplay helmet. So visibility would be nice, but it's not critical that I be able to see through with 100% clarity.

[ChristopherB]

[QUOTE=ElectricSquid;48125103]The intended application would be a visor for a cosplay helmet. So visibility would be nice, but it's not critical that I be able to see through with 100% clarity.[/QUOTE]

From what I've seen, even T-glass isn't going to have great optical clarity.

You might consider using [URL="http://www.worbla.com/?page_id=4013"]transparent Worbla[/URL] for your visor. It's a thermoplastic that should be perfectly transparent if treated correctly. You could possibly 3D print the positive mold for use with it.

[Zero-Point]

[QUOTE=ChristopherB;48125248]From what I've seen, even T-glass isn't going to have great optical clarity.

You might consider using [URL="http://www.worbla.com/?page_id=4013"]transparent Worbla[/URL] for your visor. It's a thermoplastic that should be perfectly transparent if treated correctly. You could possibly 3D print the positive mold for use with it.[/QUOTE]

Either that or traditional vacu-form with lexan/polycarbonate, with a 3d-printed positive.

[RoboChimp]

[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;48123384]Check out the [URL=http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3[/url]Prusa i3[/url] page on reprap.org.

All the printable parts are on that webpage. As well as a list of non-printable parts.[/QUOTE]Is that CTC Dual extruder printer any good?

This is what I'm looking at.
[url]http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3D-printer-dual-extruder-New-Extruder-Dual-nozzle-W-Abs-or-Pla-Spool-/331314636973?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item4d23e428ad[/url]

Mostly want to use it with PLA bronzefill.

[editline]6th July 2015[/editline]

[QUOTE=ElectricSquid;48125103]The intended application would be a visor for a cosplay helmet. So visibility would be nice, but it's not critical that I be able to see through with 100% clarity.[/QUOTE]Please tell me you're making an Iron Man helmet.

[ElectricSquid]

[QUOTE=RoboChimp;48127390]Is that CTC Dual extruder printer any good?

This is what I'm looking at.
[url]http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3D-printer-dual-extruder-New-Extruder-Dual-nozzle-W-Abs-or-Pla-Spool-/331314636973?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item4d23e428ad[/url]

Mostly want to use it with PLA bronzefill.

[editline]6th July 2015[/editline]

Please tell me you're making an Iron Man helmet.[/QUOTE]

Nope, looking to make this:

[t]http://img00.deviantart.net/05b2/i/2010/197/b/9/full_head_protection_by_talros.jpg[/t]

[RoboChimp]

[QUOTE=ElectricSquid;48127619]Nope, looking to make this:

[t]http://img00.deviantart.net/05b2/i/2010/197/b/9/full_head_protection_by_talros.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]Looks like it's up to me to make Iron Man if I ever get the funds together for a printer.

Who is that character?

[ElectricSquid]

Nobody, just some guy's concept art. I think it looks super fucking rad though, and I've been trying to design a full suit (but mostly I'm stuck on the helmet for now)

This one's of my own invention though:

[t]http://img01.deviantart.net/663b/i/2013/233/1/0/prop_helmet_by_e_squid-d6j556o.png[/t]

[woidoi]

so it turns out makerbot has been doing a pretty bad job at it. [URL="https://blog.adafruit.com/2015/07/09/the-class-action-lawsuit-of-makerbot-stratasys-begins-makerbusiness/"]So bad that there's a lawsuit now.[/URL]

[Van-man]

[QUOTE=scratch (nl);48183897]so it turns out makerbot has been doing a pretty bad job at it. [URL="https://blog.adafruit.com/2015/07/09/the-class-action-lawsuit-of-makerbot-stratasys-begins-makerbusiness/"]So bad that there's a lawsuit now.[/URL][/QUOTE]

Can't say I'm surprised, they're all kinds of awful.

[ARitz Cracker]

Can someone tell me how to fix a Prusa i3 variant which has an extruder that retracts when it's supposed to extrude and vise versa that doesn't involve me flipping some wires?

[editline]15th July 2015[/editline]

...or tediously editing GCode?

[Cakebatyr]

Flip some wires.

[paindoc]

[QUOTE=LegoGuy;48215677]Can someone tell me how to fix a Prusa i3 variant which has an extruder that retracts when it's supposed to extrude and vise versa that doesn't involve me flipping some wires?

[editline]15th July 2015[/editline]

...or tediously editing GCode?[/QUOTE]

literally just flip the stepper driver around, or in some cases you can change your firmware to say you have an inverted stepper on that axis

[Halite]

[T]http://i.imgur.com/y35WH0B.png[/T]
It begins. Can't even calc the remaining time :c

[woidoi]

I never bothered with a model from a game, but I can't imagine all the little details helping.

[Halite]

It's going through a cured printer. True torture test for it.

[ithon]

[url]http://spectrum.ieee.org/automaton/robotics/robotics-hardware/harvard-3d-printed-explosive-jumping-robot[/url]

check out how it was printed, mixed ratios of rigid and soft material.

[media]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JhX5LxK4Gws[/media]

[Taipan]

So im a Mechanical engineer specialising in plastics. We 3d print (leapfrog Creatr) every new item we want to injection mold, a few times, before making the molds. The cost savings caused by this are hilarious, since you can buy 3 fdm printers for the price of a small mold change.

This thing has saved us a shitload of money.

Not to mention that you can have an idea in the morning, and have it in your hand just after lunch.

Besides the stuff I print for work (this thing is on about 4 days a week staight, I also print and design some stuff for coleagues or for myself.
Go pro lens caps, window blind holders, car door handles. etc.

Some pictures of non work stuff:
Headphone holder:
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/j38LXl3.jpg[/IMG]
Custom pinguin KOBO GLO e-reader case.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/LaJwFi1.jpg[/IMG]
Raspberry PI case.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/YcqNpl7.jpg[/IMG]

If you need something drawn in 3d, feel free to ask.

[editline]24th July 2015[/editline]

[QUOTE=shadowboy303;48238623][T]http://i.imgur.com/y35WH0B.png[/T]
It begins. Can't even calc the remaining time :c[/QUOTE]

Open it in a 3d program and save it with a lower ammount of accuracy/triangles.
Most good 3d programs allow you to change these values when saving as .STL

[Taipan]

[QUOTE=LegoGuy;47897945]
Hey, guys. I'm getting a customized 3D printer that's based on the Prusa i3, (Just so you guys know what I'm working with) and I was thinking of what filaments I should use?
A friend of mine suggested PLA since it's less toxic(?) than ABS and said something about me not wanting to print using ABS in my room.
However, a guy I know who teaches robotics for a living suggested ABS since PLA dissolves in water, apparently. I don't know, I'm new to all this.

So, here are my questions.
What kind of filament should I use? What are the benefits and drawbacks of ABS and PLA?
Is it possible to get support material that dissolves?[/QUOTE]

Neither of them are really toxic unless you burn them. Actually, most polymers are non toxic. Its also a pro for the chemical plants that make them to get the FDA and EG 1935,2004 approval for it, so it can be used in food containers and stuff. Even near injection molding machines that process a years worth of spools every minute, no special precautions are needed for PLA or ABS.
having said that, I wouldnt reccomend printing in an enclosed space either way due to micro particles.

In my experience, ABS is really finnicky to print. Its hard to get it to adhere to the bed, and it warps alot when cooling causing delamination. However, it is a bit more impact resistant than PLA and is easier to sand and tool.
I usually use this material for parts that need to actually do work on on the machines we design (live testing)
Use painters tape with a coating of ABS slurry (look it up) to get your prints to adhere to the bed.

PLA is easier to print. Just make sure your nozzle is 100% clear of ABS before printing, or it will clogg. (soak it in pure acetone for a day if it cloggs). Its also alot harder and stiffer, but less impact resistant. It also looks a bit better imho, but is harder to rework by sanding etc. This is more for run of the mill, and show and tell prints.

[Halite]

[QUOTE=taipan;48283250]
Open it in a 3d program and save it with a lower amount of accuracy/triangles.
Most good 3d programs allow you to change these values when saving as .STL[/QUOTE]

The stupid high poly count was deliberate, some 75,000 polys.

[woidoi]

perhaps there are lower LOD models available too. I remember ripping some stuff out of Planetside 2, with a bunch of different models for different distances.

[Blastel]

Can anyone recommend a good-ish quality cheap 3d printer?

Like maybe something that's the best of both worlds?

[paindoc]

[QUOTE=Pastel;48301559]Can anyone recommend a good-ish quality cheap 3d printer?

Like maybe something that's the best of both worlds?[/QUOTE]

Wanhao Duplicator has been good to several members of our club so far

Good news, we get to probably present our clubs 3d printing project at that big huge 3d printing conference in California this year. Pretty excited, our project leader is pretty big in the engineering industry and it should be an awesome opportunity to network. I'm vouching for other group members who are older and contributed more to go, but we still want to get everyone down there. So I'm hoping it works out :D

[ARitz Cracker]

[QUOTE=Pastel;48301559]Can anyone recommend a good-ish quality cheap 3d printer?

Like maybe something that's the best of both worlds?[/QUOTE]

Do you want something pre-built or something that you need to build yourself? I got all the parts for mine for $500-600, in the process of calibrating it now. (I'll be sure to post pics soon) As long as you don't wire it wrong you'll be fine :v:

[Lapsus]

I got my printer back in place after a few weeks of downtime, and I needed something to print to make sure that everything was working again, and decided that some [url=https://www.youmagine.com/designs/z-isolation-for-makerfarm-i3v]Z isolation for my printer[/url] would be a good idea thanks to my wobbly-ass leadscrews.

[t]http://i.imgur.com/95altK4h.jpg?1[/t]

As I was waiting for that all to print, I found these awesome little [url=http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:910216]shark clips[/url]! I printed a couple little ones to see how they worked and if my printer could handle it, and then got a bit lost in tweaking flow rates and temperatures, and needed something more interesting than a cube when I got it dialed in.

I might have gotten a little carried away.

[t]http://i.imgur.com/PfT0TrY.jpg[/t]

[Zero-Point]

[QUOTE=Lapsus;48318675]I got my printer back in place after a few weeks of downtime, and I needed something to print to make sure that everything was working again, and decided that some [url=https://www.youmagine.com/designs/z-isolation-for-makerfarm-i3v]Z isolation for my printer[/url] would be a good idea thanks to my wobbly-ass leadscrews.

[t]http://i.imgur.com/95altK4h.jpg?1[/t]

As I was waiting for that all to print, I found these awesome little [url=http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:910216]shark clips[/url]! I printed a couple little ones to see how they worked and if my printer could handle it, and then got a bit lost in tweaking flow rates and temperatures, and needed something more interesting than a cube when I got it dialed in.

I might have gotten a little carried away.

[t]http://i.imgur.com/PfT0TrY.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]

It's not "carried away" until you make one big enough to ride into battle.

[ARitz Cracker]

[QUOTE=Lapsus;48318675]I got my printer back in place after a few weeks of downtime, and I needed something to print to make sure that everything was working again, and decided that some [url=https://www.youmagine.com/designs/z-isolation-for-makerfarm-i3v]Z isolation for my printer[/url] would be a good idea thanks to my wobbly-ass leadscrews.

[t]http://i.imgur.com/95altK4h.jpg?1[/t]

As I was waiting for that all to print, I found these awesome little [url=http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:910216]shark clips[/url]! I printed a couple little ones to see how they worked and if my printer could handle it, and then got a bit lost in tweaking flow rates and temperatures, and needed something more interesting than a cube when I got it dialed in.

I might have gotten a little carried away.

[t]http://i.imgur.com/PfT0TrY.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]

Duuude, [url=http://www.voxelfactory.com/collections/tools/products/3dlac-tapes-replacement-to-make-abs-pla-and-_xt-stick-properly-to-heated-glass]you should get this, it washes off with water[/url]

Also, first duel extruder calibration print! Woot!
[vid]http://www.aritzcracker.ca/uploads/aritz/printshort.mp4[/vid]

[Lapsus]

[QUOTE=LegoGuy;48319464]Duuude, [url=http://www.voxelfactory.com/collections/tools/products/3dlac-tapes-replacement-to-make-abs-pla-and-_xt-stick-properly-to-heated-glass]you should get this, it washes off with water[/url][/QUOTE]
I'm certainly interested in getting my prints to actually stick to glass, but I'll have to stick with the tape and crossed fingers for now, as I'm broke as heck! Plus I've got a lot of tape stockpiled in the meantime.

In other news;
[t]http://i.imgur.com/XcC9xyV.jpg[/t]
Sharks!

[t]http://i.imgur.com/hlKWHvd.jpg[/t]
Bridging tests!

Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can tone down the weird rippling between layers as z increases? I've isolated my leadscrews as best as I can, but I think my hotend is mounted maybe too loosely or something? I can't really figure it out.