3D printer thread - what have you been printing? - Creationism Corner

Prototyped and built a plotter using aluminium profiles and 3d-printed parts. [t]https://d.maxfile.ro/qqcnbtheiv.jpg[/t]

tomorrow's project: [t]http://i.imgur.com/PFKPKMY.png[/t] in 1:160th scale (N scale, for us train guys). I'll be putting a fully functioning mechanism in it as well, as soon as I can make one that works :v: [editline]7th November 2015[/editline] N scale is really pushing the limits of what our DeltaMaker can do, fine detail wise. I'll probably have to remove most of the details and put those back on in etched brass, like the armor panels on the top sides. If I could get the Titan 1 working properly it'd have a much better job but that's not currently feasible.

[QUOTE=Trekintosh;49068206]tomorrow's project: [t]http://i.imgur.com/PFKPKMY.png[/t] in 1:160th scale (N scale, for us train guys). I'll be putting a fully functioning mechanism in it as well, as soon as I can make one that works :v: [editline]7th November 2015[/editline] N scale is really pushing the limits of what our DeltaMaker can do, fine detail wise. I'll probably have to remove most of the details and put those back on in etched brass, like the armor panels on the top sides. If I could get the Titan 1 working properly it'd have a much better job but that's not currently feasible.[/QUOTE] Good work, make sure you post the results!

Okay so using the actual HL2 model was unfeasible. It's either the original modeler or the exporter but the model was basically garbage. However now I've basically rebuilt it from scratch, one piece at a time (8 hours since I started screwing with it, that's how bad it was). It's printing now, however I think I might have accidentally set it to be less than a quarter as large as it should be. Should make for a good test of the DeltaMaker's fine fine detail ability. [editline]7th November 2015[/editline] Welp, the first version's printed!! [img]http://i.imgur.com/UErc3tF.jpg[/img] Yes, I know, I have a bad camera. Even so, the detail looks a little fuzzy. I would have thought the 3D printer would do a better job of it. Hey wait a minute... [img]http://i.imgur.com/5om5m8L.jpg[/img] Oh. I guess I should check the scale before getting excited and hitting the Go button

Boop [img]http://i.imgur.com/8Vm5mLi.jpg[/img]

This thread isn't active enough! Have some owls! [t]http://i.imgur.com/JglXEvO.jpg[/t] The larger one is 15cm tall, and nearly killed my printer once the main cable bundle to the hotend got under the level of the nozzle. The smaller one is printed at 25% scale and turned out way smaller than I thought it would somehow.

I haven't actually printed much lately but man when everything goes to hell it goes to hell fast. In our club our Makerbot 2 is down, as the fan wires on the cable harness side (the JST plug, to be even more precise) have gone bad. So no extruder fan. So that is down while we wait for the part to come in. Our super ghetto Flashforge is on the fritz too, and Kiloprint ([URL="http://i.imgur.com/5YBH4JZ.jpg"]this big mofo[/URL]) is having weird electronics issues (which sucks because we redid the z lift, repainted it, and added an e3d hotend over the summer). The Leapfrog Creatr is having terrible bed leveling issues too, a bunch of freshman kids who came in and toured were playing with and pressing all over the bed so now we have to really really relevel it and figure out what got fucked up. And we need all of these machines too. The UAV design-build-fly club on campus is having us print part of their fuselage, and the professor who leads that club is having us print airfoils with simulated ice on them to test in our wind tunnels on campus. Additionally, we have the department coming in for a tour shortly as clubs are being evaluated for how well they utilize their space, since there are tons of clubs who want space but don't get it. The good news is we start assembling our 1mx1mx1.5m printer in January- the dept gave us a 5k grant to build the machine, which we hopefully won't need all of. It should be the first machine of its scale under 20k, so yay! [editline]15th November 2015[/editline] also our head outreach guy made this fancy shmancy flowchart for use in his teaching workshops, its such a nice satisfying flowchart [img]http://i.imgur.com/uj9NRKo.png[/img]

I haven't done anything with my 3D printer in a few months either. I should get on with that.

[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;49119874]I haven't done anything with my 3D printer in a few months either. I should get on with that.[/QUOTE] My problem is I spend so much time at this club that 3D printing has become "work" for me. So its hard for me to want to work on my machine when I have to do leadership work for my club, take care of our website, and manage our contact with other clubs and stuff. Not to mention maintaining a bunch of printers is draining. I still haven't got my smoothieboard on my mendelmax 2.0 working either, I need to calibrate the thermistor because its not working with smoothies native thermistor configs

Doesn't help that printers are so loud and obnoxious when they are running you don't actually want to be in the same room as them. Or maybe that's just our DeltaMaker and the 40mm screamer sitting on the extruder.

I think my old as fuck J-Head Mk V is nearing the end of its life. I am looking to upgrade the hot-end/extruder combo on my Prusa i3. I currently have a 3mm Greg's Wade extruder, but its all heat-warped and barely holding together. Any suggestions on what hotend/extruder I should look into?? EDIT: Also, is it worthy to look at a Bowden extruder on a Prusa i3? I remember a year ago people talking that there's no advantage over direct drive on a Prusa i3, as the Y carriage is the biggest bottleneck for speed anyway.

[QUOTE=paindoc;49119880]My problem is I spend so much time at this club that 3D printing has become "work" for me. So its hard for me to want to work on my machine when I have to do leadership work for my club, take care of our website, and manage our contact with other clubs and stuff. Not to mention maintaining a bunch of printers is draining. [/QUOTE] Damn dude, sounds like you need to delegate some of that shit so you can relax a little. Is there noone else that can help to at least maintain the machines or something? [QUOTE=Trekintosh;49123517]Doesn't help that printers are so loud and obnoxious when they are running you don't actually want to be in the same room as them. Or maybe that's just our DeltaMaker and the 40mm screamer sitting on the extruder.[/QUOTE] I have mine on the desk just to the left of me [[url=http://i.imgur.com/95altK4.jpg?1]Old photo, but it's in the same spot.[/url]], I guess it'd be a different situation if I had more 'open' headphones though. I am planning on getting another table to put it on, as I really feel a little cramped sometimes, but it is nice to be able to hear, and in my case, feel through the desk, that everything is going smoothly. [QUOTE=alexaz;49123688]I think my old as fuck J-Head Mk V is nearing the end of its life. I am looking to upgrade the hot-end/extruder combo on my Prusa i3. I currently have a 3mm Greg's Wade extruder, but its all heat-warped and barely holding together. Any suggestions on what hotend/extruder I should look into?? EDIT: Also, is it worthy to look at a Bowden extruder on a Prusa i3? I remember a year ago people talking that there's no advantage over direct drive on a Prusa i3, as the Y carriage is the biggest bottleneck for speed anyway.[/QUOTE] I would look into 1.75mm filament, just because it seems to be becoming more and more common, but I've never used 3mm stuff, so I'm not too sure. As far as extruder/hotend combos, I'm currently running a [url=http://i.imgur.com/l4YU6dB.jpg]Greg's Wade's Whatever the fuck[/url] extruder with the gears, feeding [url=http://i.imgur.com/seAZSdE.jpg]a bowden tube to an e3d v6[/url]. As far as running a bowden setup vs not running one, all of the calibration issues that I was having when I first set mine up turned out to be thanks to some spectacularly shitty filament, and I haven't really had any trouble at all since then. It's really nice to have the extruder stationary and mounted near the spool, because at least in my case, it just feeds from the spool straight down into the top of the extruder and doesn't pull or push or tangle on anything. As far as difficulties with it goes, I'll probably never be able to print flexible filament without converting back to direct drive, and I needed to increase retraction by kind of a whole lot, compared to what I was using with a direct setup. I also needed to up the print temperature for my pla to 210c to eliminate some mystery stringing issues thanks to the added resistance from the bowden tube. It's also a little weird that it takes a second sometimes for a manual extrude to propagate down the tube if things aren't primed and ready, and it takes a bit more effort to prime at the start of a print [More skirt loops!], and likes to drool a little during heating. I also printed a couple more random things, a [working!] gear bearing, and a nice, single walled rocket to test out my new filaments. The gear bearing has rather more play in it than I'd like, so I've got a lot more tuning to do to make it so that things don't fuse together. [t]http://i.imgur.com/fuAmQgi.jpg[/t] [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDY5c6cid08[/media]

[t]http://i.imgur.com/0OvnxqI.jpg[/t] Nothing super special but the hat is removable which is kinda neat.

Anyone here using a formlabs Form 1+? Been using it recently and need to cure the printed resin (clear resin), made myself a little tinfoil box with a UV bulb in it, but not sure how long to leave the parts curing for. This is the bulb I have [url]http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/energy-saving-15w-compact-uv-bulb-es-l31af[/url] and each of the parts is no bigger than 30x30x30mm. I would just leave it out in the sun but you don't get a lot of that this time of year in england. As a side note, it's a really nice printer to use, not very loud and is pretty quick compare to FDM machines. A bit pricey though, especially the resin. [t]http://t.s-ul.eu/pVruiT8R.png[/t]

[QUOTE=rampageturke 2;49878847]Anyone here using a formlabs Form 1+? Been using it recently and need to cure the printed resin (clear resin), made myself a little tinfoil box with a UV bulb in it, but not sure how long to leave the parts curing for. This is the bulb I have [url]http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/energy-saving-15w-compact-uv-bulb-es-l31af[/url] and each of the parts is no bigger than 30x30x30mm. I would just leave it out in the sun but you don't get a lot of that this time of year in england. As a side note, it's a really nice printer to use, not very loud and is pretty quick compare to FDM machines. A bit pricey though, especially the resin. [t]http://t.s-ul.eu/pVruiT8R.png[/t][/QUOTE] I think I saw in a video where they were reviewing one of these that exposing the parts to pure UV light can cause the parts to warp, so it might be best to just leave it under a fluorescent light or some such.

[QUOTE=Zero-Point;49881757]I think I saw in a video where they were reviewing one of these that exposing the parts to pure UV light can cause the parts to warp, so it might be best to just leave it under a fluorescent light or some such.[/QUOTE] Do you still have the link? The only thing I can think of causing the warping was potentially heat if the bulb is a high wattage. The one I'm using doesnt radiate much heat at all, and the parts are around 6cm away from the bulb at a minimum, the parts don't get warm to touch either. The box itself is pretty large to be honest compared to the area occupied by the bulb and the parts.

Oh forgot about this thread. Decided to abandon my solidoodle 2, never got around to ordering an E3D for it and I have a couple printers that I can use free at work anyway, all I have to do is bring my own filament. Anyway a friend of mine decided to pitch an idea of starting a local 3d printer company at Startup Weekend. They won 3rd place and is now in the running to win $20k. They've started building the printer and here is a picture of it 3 weeks ago, [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32814946/IMG-20160225-WA0066.jpg[/t] -Arduino Mega + RAMPS -E3D Extruder -Modular heatbed carriage Currently it prints 200x200x300 but is expandable to 300x300x300. They also have a dual extruder bracket ready. They want the final product to be about $1000 USD. And afaik prototyping has already gone beyond $1500. I challenged them to build a 300^3 printer with dual direct extruders and 24v heatbed (since the current one takes like an hour to get into temperature). If they can build it for $1200 I'll buy it on the spot. Currently they expect production cost to be under $400 but that might be hard.

Which way do I turn the little screw on the stepper drivers to decrease the voltage? My extruder motor gets really really hot during long prints and I think it's because I messed with the voltage back when I had no idea what I was doing. Looks like this: [IMG]http://img.dxcdn.com/productimages/sku_186465_1.jpg[/IMG]

[QUOTE=thefreemann;49920215]Which way do I turn the little screw on the stepper drivers to decrease the voltage? My extruder motor gets really really hot during long prints and I think it's because I messed with the voltage back when I had no idea what I was doing. Looks like this: [IMG]http://img.dxcdn.com/productimages/sku_186465_1.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE] That limits the current going to the stepper motor. Should be a guide on the reprap wiki for calibrating/adjusting your particular stepper driver IC, requires a good multimeter though.

I printed and designed this myself :) [url]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k_zTgN8aXaI[/url]

Hey guys, can anyone recommend a 3D printing shop that takes 3D models? I'd like to print a couple Dark Souls figures (and if possible have lights built in), but I'm not really knowledgeable on 3D printing shops. I'd like to print this scene: [t]http://orig04.deviantart.net/22f6/f/2013/245/a/3/elite_knight_by_alo81-d6ktxbg.jpg[/t] With the bonfire having red lights on it. Any help is appreciated.

I mean, Shapeways is kind of pricy but usually gets the job done with detailed color 3D prints like what you're describing. If you're going to print the bonfire, there's the bonfire model without the flames on thingiverse and then you could just use papercraft or similar for the flames. Otherwise it might be a bit tricky to print

what experience do you have with modeling and 3D miniatures? I would say make a mold for resin or some other epoxy casting, that way you and get the clear fire (which you would have to 3D model, unless it's volumetirc) and paint the amor in a nice glossy texture.

[QUOTE=fishyfish777;50098618]I mean, Shapeways is kind of pricy but usually gets the job done with detailed color 3D prints like what you're describing. If you're going to print the bonfire, there's the bonfire model without the flames on thingiverse and then you could just use papercraft or similar for the flames. Otherwise it might be a bit tricky to print[/QUOTE] Luckily the bonfire model doesn't contain the flames, the flames are just a nice particle effect. [QUOTE=Ithon;50098678]what experience do you have with modeling and 3D miniatures? I would say make a mold for resin or some other epoxy casting, that way you and get the clear fire (which you would have to 3D model, unless it's volumetirc) and paint the amor in a nice glossy texture.[/QUOTE] I have no experience in 3D printing, but I do have experience in 3D modelling and texturing, but considering that the models I'll be using are straight from Dark Souls, I won't really have to do much.

Anyone here know enough to fill me in on some motor-ey stuff? I'm building up my Printrbot Simple, and I don't really want to split the header connection between two motors for the X and Z. Was hoping I'd be able to split just the signal wire between each set, and then have the power come from somewhere else.

I hope it's the right place to ask, but my head of department at work is considering buying a 3D printer. The main reason is that a new course curriculum will come into effect next term and it's based around rapid prototyping and production. I'll admit, I know diddly squat about 3d printing, so any advice would be greatly appreciated. We've been using the laser cutter at work to make 3d models for quite some time, but as new ways of manufacturing progress and continue, we need to keep up with it. If anyone can suggest a low-end budget model and a high end budget model that would be great. Ideally the low-end to be around £500-1000, and a high end model around £2-3000.

So I went to a customer's house this afternoon to replace a thermostat (I do HVAC work), and he happens to do a lot of 3D printing stuff as well as teaching a course on it at a local Christian school. Two cool things happened as a result. 1) He presents me with a 3D-printed object and says if I can identify it, it's mine. (it was a Mojoptix sundial) 2) He had a 3D Systems CUBE partially disassembled in his garage, said the printer reported the hot-end as damaged and he couldn't find a replacement part. After talking about it for a while, he said if I could fix it, I could have it for $50. Turns out the thermal fuse was open, so I bought 5 replacements on eBay for $12 including shipping. Kinda psyched, even if it's one of those bullshit "proprietary cartridge" types, because there's a hack you can do that allows you to use any filament you want. :excited:

Presenting the most complex thing to leave my printer: [img]http://i.imgur.com/IRnaxDk.jpg[/img] Made part-for-part as per the original blueprints by [URL=https://www.myminifactory.com/users/lilykill]this dude[/URL]. It cycles exactly like the real thing and [I]in theory[/I] it's almost fully functional, since the only parts missing are the firing pin and the actual trigger assembly, which I might model and make next week. I am using my 3D printer responsibly :v:.

Replaced that thermal fuse, now to get the dumb thing to print something, which brings me to a mini-rant: This printer has three notable features: 1) It is silver. 2) It is, in fact, a 3D printer. 3) It is, in fact, a piece of shit. Not that I'm ingrateful with the cheap printer that took a whole 20 minutes of labor and $2 in parts to repair, I'm over-joyed. It's just that the printer, as-is, is a piece of shit. By design. :v: Examples: 1) Proprietary cartridges. These goofy little cartridges have a small circuit board inside of them that either has a tiny flash chip embedded somehow and it tells the cartridge how much has been used based on the number of printer steps used to advance the filament, or something, I don't know. Point is, whoever made this design choice needs to be shot. 2) The software requires you to activate your printer in order to use it, and so far as I can see (unless anyone has any helpful info, haven't had much time to look around for it yet), there's no useful information on how to set it up to use Cura or the like instead. 3) It has an option to connect via Wifi as a sort of networked printer, but attempts to configure this option through the machine's UI have proven fruitless as it refuses to even let you open the WiFi menu to begin with.

Man its been a while. Ended up finishing the mask and doing a cosplay with it. I went to c2e2 and didn't like the fact that i didn't have anything in my hand so i ended up making a stun stick. [img]http://i.imgur.com/I6Btunn.jpg[/img] [img]http://i.imgur.com/aXnEla0.jpg[/img] I used the inside of a light saber and added some sounds to the stun stick aswell. [video]https://vid.me/nW7M[/video]