Turns out my filament rolls aren't the "standard" size, in particular the middle holes are far to small for this fancy multi-filament holder I've been printing. [url]http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1565886[/url]
[img]http://puu.sh/tv0hR.png[/img]
If you compare to the image of the above post, you'll notice the difference.
Anyways, turns out if you remove the cross-beam structure inside my rolls, they turn into standard-sized ones.
I went ahead with a knife and some pliers and brutally standarized it.
[img]http://puu.sh/tv1gN.png[/img]
but hey it fits now
did two test prints, they turned out ok.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/fN1Yp8h.jpg[/t]
Jesus it's been a while, I never got round to renovating my old printer let alone scrap it for parts. Then I started full time work and never thought of it again.
I'm looking into making a delta printer but all these kits floating around for about £160-£220 are really tempting. May just get one and swap out the crap bits as they degrade.
I more so want to make a brushless motored printer (geared for the lack of tourqe of course).
The xyz davinci is subpar, do not buy.
[QUOTE=Zombinie;51748569]The xyz davinci is subpar, do not buy.[/QUOTE]
Yeah, avoid that trash. Even the Bfb3000 Mk1 I had 5 years ago is better than that thing.
[URL="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sintron-3D-Printer-Kossel-Mini-Full-Kit-w-Auto-level-for-RepRap-Rostock-Delta-/151767800672"]Heres what I was looking at. (Ebay)[/URL]
Edit:
Just bumped into this one, has dual extruder.[URL="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Geeetech-Delta-Rostock-G2sPro-dual-extruder-AutoLevel-3D-Printer-shipped-from-UK-/282297617012"] [Ebay] [/URL]
Print Volume: cylindrical, D: 170mm , H:200mm
If I use an airbrush for 3d printing will I need to use a base to get rid of the layering or will just using it work?
[QUOTE=eirexe;51770991]If I use an airbrush for 3d printing will I need to use a base to get rid of the layering or will just using it work?[/QUOTE]
You'll definitely need to do some smoothing work before airbrushing, since I find that the layering actually gets more prominent if you spray paint.
It depends on the printer and how calibrated it is, but you might need anything from a thick primer coat to filler and sanding to get it properly smooth. You can also jury-rig yourself a vapour chamber to get nice smooth lines if you print in ABS, but you also lose any sharp edges or small details if you do that. Mind you I've never tried smoothing with paints alone, so I've no idea how well that'd actually work.
Incidentally, you guys should take a look at [URL=https://www.myminifactory.com/users/lilykill]Daniel Lilygreen[/URL]. He makes great designs and he's a master of sanding.
This printer any good for a first printer?
[url]http://www.auselectronicsdirect.com.au/arduino-3d-printer-kit-with-lcd-controller-and-hea?gclid=Cj0KEQiAzsvEBRDEluzk96e4rqABEiQAezEOoAMJynyODUpTE91qhbOqyhT__TRJLYxsmPK8K1ZvQRcaAp3w8P8HAQ[/url]
[QUOTE=Pilotguy97;51771190]You'll definitely need to do some smoothing work before airbrushing, since I find that the layering actually gets more prominent if you spray paint.
It depends on the printer and how calibrated it is, but you might need anything from a thick primer coat to filler and sanding to get it properly smooth. You can also jury-rig yourself a vapour chamber to get nice smooth lines if you print in ABS, but you also lose any sharp edges or small details if you do that. Mind you I've never tried smoothing with paints alone, so I've no idea how well that'd actually work.
Incidentally, you guys should take a look at [URL=https://www.myminifactory.com/users/lilykill]Daniel Lilygreen[/URL]. He makes great designs and he's a master of sanding.[/QUOTE]
My prints come pretty smooth out of the printer, the only visible artifact is the fact that straight vertical parts have vertical lines, but I think that's normal.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/6MNQCGn.png[/t]
[QUOTE=RoboChimp;51771211]This printer any good for a first printer?
[url]http://www.auselectronicsdirect.com.au/arduino-3d-printer-kit-with-lcd-controller-and-hea?gclid=Cj0KEQiAzsvEBRDEluzk96e4rqABEiQAezEOoAMJynyODUpTE91qhbOqyhT__TRJLYxsmPK8K1ZvQRcaAp3w8P8HAQ[/url][/QUOTE]
no dont buy a delta as your first printer
[QUOTE=waylander;51772094]no dont buy a delta as your first printer[/QUOTE]
I'd agree, delta printers are TERRIBLE for first timers. There is a lot of finer adjustments and it massively helps if you already know how a traditional pursa/carriage style printer works first. Get a pursa and learn the ins and outs before looking into delta and some of the more fine designs.
Speaking of deltas, I'm about 80% of the way through building my own right now. In the end I just brought a Geetech kit at £180 (at discount of course) and its actually OK quality. Some of the holes are a tiny bit too small but they even go as far as providing a file so you can enlarge the holes if need be, all I need to do is attach the top half of the printer and I'm done.
I managed to over tighten one of the stepper drivers mounting brackets, but alas some super glue is holding really well until I can get the printing running and print a new one to replace the acrylic one. (All my fault, the piece was at an angle when I was tightening the screws and it cracked).
Been designing some LEGO compatible models to make up for their lack of giving historical topics the love they used to, but I'm having trouble removing some supporting wax from the bottom 1/5th of the model. This one is based on a Viking/Anglo-Saxon sword I had purchased a while back.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/A8OWiNr.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/K0LcFp1.jpg?1[/t]
[I]3D printed piece is the one directly next to the minifig[/I]
Most of the model is fine, and I can't tell if the white buildup is due to leftover wax or fucked up UV curing. (this was ordered through Shapeways rather than my home printer because my Makerbot just can't even get close to the resolution I wanted for a "little-to-no-touchups-required" master print)
[QUOTE=waylander;51772094]no dont buy a delta as your first printer[/QUOTE]Why not? The alternatives have really small print volume.
Like shadowboy303 said they are a lot harder to setup properly and even if you bought a prebuilt one it's not going to stay calibrated one the delivery guys are done throwing it around. You seem concerned about build volume most Cartesian printers are 200x200x200 which isn't really any smaller but for half the price of the one you linked to you can get a 200x280 and expanding the z is easy with an aluminium extrusion desing
[QUOTE=waylander;51774789]Like shadowboy303 said they are a lot harder to setup properly and even if you bought a prebuilt one it's not going to stay calibrated one the delivery guys are done throwing it around. You seem concerned about build volume most Cartesian printers are 200x200x200 which isn't really any smaller but for half the price of the one you linked to you can get a 200x280 and expanding the z is easy with an aluminium extrusion desing[/QUOTE]
This, Delta's only real advantage is they're better for tall prints when calibrated right.
But as long as you keep the shape fairly square all around (and not oblong), then Cartesians scale up well as long as the frame construction and carriage(s) are well made.
6 Hours later and it's alive! Still haven't fed any plastic yet but it moves around perfectly, in the process of leveling the bed and setting some custom scripts for checking deviation on the beds x and y axis. Motors are nearly silent too.
Edit: Just a side note on the GT2560 Mega/Ramps combo board, its actually decent quality and thus far I've had no issues with heat even on passive cooling. (Cant find the right header for the board fan, the version I have seems to be slightly newer than ALL the documentation I can find.)
Having issues with my feed steppers going in the wrong direction, yay.
:disgust::disgust::disgust:
[vid]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/71184478/ShareX/2017/02/2017-02-05_21-46-19.mp4[/vid]
:pcrepair::pcrepair::pcrepair:
First print, 15x15x15mm cube. 0.02mm Accurate on all axis, I'm ecstatic. I havent even fine tuned the ANY of the axis and its still damm accurate. :excited:
[vid]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/71184478/ShareX/2017/02/2017-02-05_21-42-18.mp4[/vid]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/Xsgg4pg.png[/t]
:toot:
So I'm using Repetier & Slic3r, can I increase the filament extrusion amount globally? It seems to only apply when it actually starts the second layer, making its really hard to get a print to actually start. As seen in the above vid the outside ring does not actually print at all because there simply is not enough coming out to match the speed of the machine atm.
[QUOTE=shadowboy303;51781227]:disgust::disgust::disgust:
So I'm using Repetier & Slic3r, can I increase the filament extrusion amount globally? It seems to only apply when it actually starts the second layer, making its really hard to get a print to actually start. As seen in the above vid the outside ring does not actually print at all because there simply is not enough coming out to match the speed of the machine atm.[/QUOTE]
It's been a while since I last touched my printer, but there are usually a bunch of modifiers for the first layer (I usually have my first layer 50% slower for one thing, seems to get better adhesion to the bed) also I always do a double outline. Doesn't matter what you do it always seems to take a moment or two to get up to speed (which is why the outline is done in the first place and on a print with such a small perimeter its probably only just got going by the time it starts on the piece itself.
i dont use slic3r but isnt there an option called extrusion multiplier?
Plastic primer wooo
[t]https://scontent-mad1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/16487652_1358587064216276_3801691187990429203_o.jpg?oh=92bb98e1ef042883e1ec82638950248f&oe=59499CEA[/t]
So I found out about the fact that my filament stepper was slipping but making no noise weird. I kinda sorted this out by making a insert for my spool holder so the reels can move very easily now. The printer works perfectly fine on the first layer, the print sticks down perfectly and the width of the extruded material is nice and wide but not translucent; exactly what I wanted. The issues come the moment I get to the second layer now. After the first layer everything goes tits up; it extrudes slower yet the head moves faster as told to by slic3r. If I give the filament stepper a hand by pushing the filament in a bit more it comes out just fine, so its not a back pressure related issue. I even made my PTFE tubes shorter in the hopes of easing the load on the filament stepper. I'm not too familiar with marlin firmware due to the only other printer I had was running closed source firmware and was all calibrated via the LCD Display and button controls. I've tried increasing the EvelMax and then increasing the rate but nothing seems to happen. I've increased the firmware limit of 45 to 60 and still get no change. :speechless:
I've changed slic3rs extrusion mult, it helped but is still not enough to keep up with the default speed of this printer. The head is plenty close to the bed.
Edit: DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT was what I was looking for, been uping the E side of it and still having issues. I think its down to the extruder drive gear not being man enough to keep hold of the filament
Edit 2 "A 3DPrinter Boogaloo": So been having a look at the extruder mounts, took the springs and stretched them a bit so they would apply just a bit more force; hey fukin' presto it now prints way better. Still having some missed layer parts. But its good enough on larger prints to make a better extruder now.
[T]http://i.imgur.com/VmhsxyT.jpg[/T][T]http://i.imgur.com/r2bOFZk.jpg[/T]
Edit 3:
Had retraction disabled, not enough cooling. Making a fan shroud now.
[T]http://i.imgur.com/fmpaFNf.jpg[/T]
I've been trying to get a good first layer, and finally managed to get the most annoying shits ever to stick: circles. I print outer perimeters first, so it results in the printer doing circles without anything around them, often causing them to let lose and fuck the whole print.
Still the first layer is not perfect, and that's where I ask you guys for help
here's the top side
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43645231/photos/electro/printer/firstlayer2.png[/t]
and here's the bottom
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43645231/photos/electro/printer/firstlayer1.png[/t]
(now I don't know, but to me it looks as if the infill paths are too squished into eachother)
What is messing up the infill? too high flowrate? too wide an extrusion? nozzle too close to printbed?
[editline]9th February 2017[/editline]
I increased the distance between nozzle and printbed by a tiny bit and reprinted it
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43645231/photos/electro/printer/2017-02-09 14.17.34.jpg[/t]
the difference is huge :v:, the brim was also removeable, wheras the old one was firmly stuck to the model. I do still have bumps wherever the lines change direction though.
My printbed is convex though, so printing further from the centre also increases the distance, so right now it becomes kinda tricky when printing far from the centre.
Infill looks ok to me on the first one? If anything not quite smushed up enough, but only by a fraction. Possibly considering raising your extruder temp by a degree or so?
[T]http://i.imgur.com/xAfAIiB.jpg[/T]
A Mini Halo 3 Magnum
Cleaned up the model and it printed with minimal warping. :joy:
Next up is a full size AR, gonna paint it also.
[editline]10th February 2017[/editline]
[QUOTE=scratch (nl);51798724]
My printbed is convex though, so printing further from the centre also increases the distance, so right now it becomes kinda tricky when printing far from the centre.[/QUOTE]
Have a look into "AutoLeveling", its actually just supplying offsets to the firmware and will compensate for any flex in your print surface.
I'd recommend an inductive sensor for this.
i think a bltouch or clone is the best system for autoleveling especially if you print on glass. i have one of the little green sensors but its a pain in the ass so i dont have it installed atm
I've printed a couple things so far, namely this Wingman revolver prop from Titanfall:
[t]http://i.imgur.com/Jjyjy2s.jpg[/t]
As well as a few smaller test prints/trinkets (I had some pictures, but my smartphone decided to up and brick itself on me this week, making them inaccessible).
Thinking about doing some more full-scale props in the future.
[T]http://i.imgur.com/7CLJMPx.jpg[/T]
Testing in PLA before printing in max scale on grey ABS. :shh:
[QUOTE=waylander;51774789]Like shadowboy303 said they are a lot harder to setup properly and even if you bought a prebuilt one it's not going to stay calibrated one the delivery guys are done throwing it around. You seem concerned about build volume most Cartesian printers are 200x200x200 which isn't really any smaller but for half the price of the one you linked to you can get a 200x280 and expanding the z is easy with an aluminium extrusion desing[/QUOTE]It's got to do with availability, I can't seem to find a cheap cartesian printer for $499 AUD from an aussie retailer with decent build size.
[url]https://www.jaycar.com.au/duinotech-mini-3d-printer/p/TL4076[/url]
just get one from ali or banggood. [url=https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2016-Newest-TEVO-Tarantula-I3Aluminium-Extrusion-3D-Printer-kit-printer-3d-printing-2-Rolls-Filament-8GB/32596996503.html?spm=2114.30010308.3.45.TfKFhj&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_2_10065_10068_10501_10000074_10503_10000032_119_10060_10062_10056_10055_10000062_10054_10059_10099_10000013_10103_10102_10000016_10096_10000056_10000059_10052_10053_10107_10050_10106_10051_10000097_10000094_10000053_10000007_10000050_10084_10000100_10083_10000047_10080_10082_10081_10110_10111_10112_10113_10114_10115_10000041_10000044_10078_10079_10000038_10073_10000035_10122_10121-10050_10503_10501_10112,searchweb201603_10,afswitch_3_afChannel,ppcSwitch_5,single_sort_2_default&btsid=7201cafa-0ab1-4960-af4f-dacc6ebf1f6e]this[/url] is what i have its pretty good and only $320 aud for the base version plus they will declare the value at whatever you need to avoid import duty
[url]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=viEU7fLrVRI&t=6s[/url]
for £700 i wouldnt mind the pain of a delta for 340x500
Sorry, you need to Log In to post a reply to this thread.