Is it friday yet
[img]http://i.imgur.com/s1iyRcc.png[/img]
[I]is it friday yet[/I]
[img]https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/G/01/aplusautomation/vendorimages/9ee48739-4bfb-4f63-b02e-2139dd6e1395.jpg._CB273440689__SL300__.jpg[/img]
[I][B]is it friday yet[/B][/I]
[T]http://i.imgur.com/XVeeCTc.jpg[/T]
Got 3D Printed stuff all over the frickin' house now.
Assembled mini magnum, Oculus Touch rifle stock and my new spool holders.
Any suggestions on painting prints? I just got this done through Shapeways for my gal's bday / our 2 year.
[img]http://i.picpar.com/wunc.jpg[/img]
It'll be pastel colors. I'd also want to probably have some kinda glossy finish to help protect it and make it pop.
What kind of material is that? That, to me at least, would be the first step in deciding how to paint it.
Good point! It's their (unpolished) white strong and flexible plastic.
[QUOTE=DOG-GY;51836405]Good point! It's their (unpolished) white strong and flexible plastic.[/QUOTE]
That doesn't specify the plastic type (ABS, PLA, Nylon, etc etc etc) which is needed to recommend paints/primer
Ah my bad. It's nylon powder.
[editline]17th February 2017[/editline]
Actually when looking up the type of powder I found a forum post linking back to a tutorial on Shapeways:
[url]https://www.shapeways.com/tutorials/painting3dprintedsls[/url]
Does this all check out?
[QUOTE=DOG-GY;51834590]Any suggestions on painting prints? I just got this done through Shapeways for my gal's bday / our 2 year.
[img]http://i.picpar.com/wunc.jpg[/img]
It'll be pastel colors. I'd also want to probably have some kinda glossy finish to help protect it and make it pop.[/QUOTE]
thats an sls print?
yup yup
So I finally just finished setting up a inductive sensor, spent 3 days due to the first sensor being DOA and a whole BATCH of dead resistors. Fml.
But my god, print accuracy has gone though the frickin' roof. I no longer have worries about getting too close to the bed, auto stops when the sensor is triggered. :sax:
Next step is to start porting all my settings over to the latest release of marlin. Still using a version from late 2015.
Can anyone recommend some good brands? I've been using Hatchbox so far and while its cheap it seems to have a lot of air bubbles in the filament. I also want some more subtle coloured PLA.
Edit: Here is the result of the auto-levelling, able to print really awkward overhangs now. 20mm diameter.
[T]http://i.imgur.com/YlYxH7D.jpg[/T]
So I did some research and found that primer is probably unnecessary due to it being an SLS print. However I'm gonna do it anyways as I don't want my paints seeping into the surface, and found a Rust Oleum spray primer that should do the trick. My plan is to start with that, do some light sanding to smooth out a couple spots (maybe do this first?), then jump into acrylics and finish off with (perhaps both glossy and matte for different areas) varnish.
Does all this sound solid to those of you who've done these kinds of projects before?
[QUOTE=DOG-GY;51839131]So I did some research and found that primer is probably unnecessary due to it being an SLS print. However I'm gonna do it anyways as I don't want my paints seeping into the surface, and found a Rust Oleum spray primer that should do the trick. My plan is to start with that, do some light sanding to smooth out a couple spots (maybe do this first?), then jump into acrylics and finish off with (perhaps both glossy and matte for different areas) varnish.
Does all this sound solid to those of you who've done these kinds of projects before?[/QUOTE]
Currently in the middle of painting some parts I did, but my material is PLA. Acrylic shot through an air brush works great, but since your material is nylon you may need to do some extra digging - nylon is pretty slippery and paint doesn't stick well to it all the time.
Finished porting settings over to the newer version of marlin. 1.0.2-2
"z_min" won't report at all on m119, any ideas? (Config below, default delta style) I've likely missed a comment or something.
[T]http://i.imgur.com/p3aHyH6.png[/T]
[CODE]// Deltas never have min endstops
#define DISABLE_MIN_ENDSTOPS
[/CODE]
Edit: Found that, still not getting anywhere.
Edit: found the bastard.
[code]//#define USE_XMIN_PLUG
//#define USE_YMIN_PLUG
#define USE_ZMIN_PLUG
#define USE_XMAX_PLUG
#define USE_YMAX_PLUG
#define USE_ZMAX_PLUG[/code]
can anyone slice the shadow (named push) in this pack? [url]http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1083817/[/url] s3d wont slice it properly but the others like the krambit are ok, i want to print the smallest one first to see how the blade comes out
[QUOTE=waylander;51849157]can anyone slice the shadow (named push) in this pack? [url]http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1083817/[/url] s3d wont slice it properly but the others like the krambit are ok, i want to print the smallest one first to see how the blade comes out[/QUOTE]
All seem to slice just fine in Slic3r at 0.1mm layer height.
I have an old 3d printer that has a fried arduino board, I was thinking of re-making the frame of it in aluminum and expanding the work area, anyone know of a good way to start doing that?
This is the printer kit that I bought: [url]http://q3dprinter.com/twoup.htm[/url]
It doesn't have much use and everything worked fine until the board shorted out.
[QUOTE=S31-Syntax;51831980]Is it friday yet
[img]http://i.imgur.com/s1iyRcc.png[/img]
[I]is it friday yet[/I]
[img]https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/G/01/aplusautomation/vendorimages/9ee48739-4bfb-4f63-b02e-2139dd6e1395.jpg._CB273440689__SL300__.jpg[/img]
[I][B]is it friday yet[/B][/I][/QUOTE]
Think you can tell me how well that printer works when you get it? been looking at the same one.
[QUOTE=TheHANGOVER;51850086]Think you can tell me how well that printer works when you get it? been looking at the same one.[/QUOTE]
Things I have learned in ~4 days with the MP Select Mini
ABS is satan's piss. Fuck that whole chemical formula. Don't even [I]try[/I] printing ABS.
I'm giving PETG a try next change I get. Sampler thing or something.
It does indeed work out of the box with no calibration.
[I]however[/I] the prints have little pimples all over em where the outer layer as its extruding kinda pops out the sides, and it looks kinda bad.
Some slicer tweaks will make that thing print like a dream though.
First and foremost, use these for layer thickness.
[quote]Layer Height (mm)
0.04375 (results may vary)*
0.0875
0.13125
0.175
0.21875
0.2625
0.30625[/quote]
I'll update this when I get home to add the rest of the slicer tweaks.
TL:DR, Its a fantastic little printer and I've loved every minute of learning about it.
Get it off Jet.com, use coupons, I paid $178.
[editline]21st February 2017[/editline]
[QUOTE=ultra_bright;51850048]I have an old 3d printer that has a fried arduino board, I was thinking of re-making the frame of it in aluminum and expanding the work area, anyone know of a good way to start doing that?
This is the printer kit that I bought: [url]http://q3dprinter.com/twoup.htm[/url]
It doesn't have much use and everything worked fine until the board shorted out.[/QUOTE]
The design looks -somewhat- similar to a mendlemax or a prusa. Could start there.
Alternatively you could salvage every working part, steppers, hot-end, etc, and just redesign it around already established scalable printer designs.
[url]http://www.thingiverse.com/explore/popular/3d-printing/3d-printers[/url]
I have recently purchased an Anet a8, and was wondering if anyone here owns one or has some experience with them? If so, could I get some slicer setting recommendations? I use slic3r and simplify 3D, depending on the print. If I remember correctly it's a Prusa i3 clone but the print settings for the two seem to be different.
[B]Edit:[/B] Not sure if the post below was directed towards me, but I forgot to mention I print PLA
you need an enclosure for abs, its pretty easy to make one for low cost using ikea lack table/s and a bit of perspex
[QUOTE=S31-Syntax;51854069]Things I have learned in ~4 days with the MP Select Mini
ABS is satan's piss. Fuck that whole chemical formula. Don't even [I]try[/I] printing ABS.
I'm giving PETG a try next change I get. Sampler thing or something.
It does indeed work out of the box with no calibration.
[I]however[/I] the prints have little pimples all over em where the outer layer as its extruding kinda pops out the sides, and it looks kinda bad.
Some slicer tweaks will make that thing print like a dream though.
First and foremost, use these for layer thickness.
I'll update this when I get home to add the rest of the slicer tweaks.
TL:DR, Its a fantastic little printer and I've loved every minute of learning about it.
Get it off Jet.com, use coupons, I paid $178.[/QUOTE]
Thanks for the info man. IT looks great for a sub $200 printer. I'm torn between this and a lathe so it might be awhile before i pick it up.
I took my 3D printer into work under the guise of getting it fixed - and it did, to a point. New smoothieboard, fancy new cyclops hot end (single nozzle, dual filament-feed), general tune-up by me and our other printer gurus, and so on. I completed the research for the contract I was working on with it, and then went back to work on my software dev stuff.
I go back into our lab last week and its been used for spare parts. Its like a bloody 3D printer chop-shop back there!
So I decide to ask to use our resin printer to print something since mine is down, but one of our line managers sees me preparing a print and then tries to pass a company policy that we can't use company printers for personal prints. My boss, being the head of the additive manufacturing division here, pretty quickly shut that down, but he still managed to convinced upper management that we shouldn't use the resin printer because resin is expensive
I was going to make a ship from Star Citizen, and resin was the only way to do it :c
[editline]21st February 2017[/editline]
also wish I could get a photo of it, but I'm not sure if its covered under NDA (I can mention it but photos are always iffy because of ITAR stuff in our lab space), but we have a printer literally the size of a car. It uses parts from an oven to heat the build volume, and has support for up to 8 extruders. it looks more like a fancy enclosed CNC machine than a 3D printer, tbh
[QUOTE=paindoc;51854605]I took my 3D printer into work under the guise of getting it fixed - and it did, to a point. New smoothieboard, fancy new cyclops hot end (single nozzle, dual filament-feed), general tune-up by me and our other printer gurus, and so on. I completed the research for the contract I was working on with it, and then went back to work on my software dev stuff.
I go back into our lab last week and its been used for spare parts. Its like a bloody 3D printer chop-shop back there!
So I decide to ask to use our resin printer to print something since mine is down, but one of our line managers sees me preparing a print and then tries to pass a company policy that we can't use company printers for personal prints. My boss, being the head of the additive manufacturing division here, pretty quickly shut that down, but he still managed to convinced upper management that we shouldn't use the resin printer because resin is expensive
I was going to make a ship from Star Citizen, and resin was the only way to do it :c
[editline]21st February 2017[/editline]
[B]also wish I could get a photo of it, but I'm not sure if its covered under NDA (I can mention it but photos are always iffy because of ITAR stuff in our lab space), but we have a printer literally the size of a car. It uses parts from an oven to heat the build volume, and has support for up to 8 extruders. it looks more like a fancy enclosed CNC machine than a 3D printer, tbh[/B][/QUOTE]
Oh ham please ask if you can. Or at least get a model number to google.
[QUOTE=S31-Syntax;51854069]
[I]however[/I] the prints have little pimples all over em where the outer layer as its extruding kinda pops out the sides, and it looks kinda bad.[/QUOTE]
Check out your slicing software to see if it supports coasting, and tinker with your retraction. I've always wondered why slicing software doesn't prefer interior corners for perimeter adjustments, but those two settings can get me preeetty smooth prints.
[QUOTE=S31-Syntax;51854838]Oh ham please ask if you can. Or at least get a model number to google.[/QUOTE]
It was built entirely in-house, designed from scratch. Same guy has designed numerous printers for a range of the customers we serve in our R&D work.
I'll see if I can get a photo, though.
[QUOTE=ramirez!;51855047]Check out your slicing software to see if it supports coasting, and tinker with your retraction. I've always wondered why slicing software doesn't prefer interior corners for perimeter adjustments, but those two settings can get me preeetty smooth prints.[/QUOTE]
I'm not at home atm so I can't see what exactly I changed, but when I dorked with the settings last night the change was literally night and day. The pimpling was reduced to [I]only[/I] a small area on the backside where it picks up and moves over to a teensy tiny area to do a small perimeter and then back.
I'm going to upgrade the fan shroud next and throw one of my 40mm enterprise server screamers on it to see how much better it cools the filament.
Ehhh pheck. had to many issues with the latest stable release of marlin. Moved to RC8.
Much better, extrusion problems also seem to be solved even with the same values as last time. Weird. Must have been some changes in how steps are dealt with.
[QUOTE=shadowboy303;51856063]Ehhh pheck. had to many issues with the latest stable release of marlin. Moved to RC8.
Much better, extrusion problems also seem to be solved even with the same values as last time. Weird. Must have been some changes in how steps are dealt with.[/QUOTE]
So my main job at work is writing a slicer from the ground up, and one of the things that has been driving me crazy is some of the minute but crucial differences in between firmwares. It scares me too, because I'm terrified that I'll forget to think of this at some point and cause an unsafe or damaging move or something.
It has continued to validate my dislike of makerware though. Its the only firmware that doesn't let you set a cooling fan's speed, its either on or its off. They also have a weird way of handling preheat commands.
[editline]21st February 2017[/editline]
When it comes to writing 'exceptions' for gcode writing, marlin has required the fewest of them. I don't think I've even had to write one yet, it's easily the easiest firmware to deal with.
Repetier is cool because of things like mixing extruder support, though. it reminds me of marlin with a couple extra features. Mixing extruders hurt my head, even though my research over the summer was all about them :v
Here is a plant pot I designed for my mum: [URL="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2118556"][Thingiverse]
[/URL]
[T]http://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/20/d1/3f/54/a0/0c89add36d5164cf7c87e9d37ac4aa9d_preview_featured.jpg[/T]
I made about 9 of them so far, found them handy for holding my printers screws in different size pots so I did not get things mixed up. Fusion 360 feels like solidworks but less daunting.
Edit: so during my troubles with auto leveling/tramming (still having issues :/), excel makes a great way of visualising the output of G29!
[T]http://i.imgur.com/BPLDyo3.png[/T]
The results are wildly wrong for some reason, they seem exaggerated on the Z axis. And then there is that wild bump near the right side. You can actually watch the print head follow that in reality also.
[T]http://i.imgur.com/VQMa9W8.jpg[/T]
[T]http://i.imgur.com/sZeziO0.jpg[/T]
Printed at 0.3mm layer height with 0% support.
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3D printer thread - what have you been printing?
