Made some custom supports for a rubiks cube piece, and they ended up looking unintentionally beautiful, even though I only paid attention to functionality.
[img]https://puu.sh/vnFrd.png[/img]
[t]https://puu.sh/vnqTK.png[/t] [t]https://puu.sh/vnGh4.png[/t]
No picture at the moment, but started printing a Ghost from Destiny in PLA today- likely going to have it done in a few days, then time for sanding+paint.
EDIT: First half of the shell done, gonna sand and paint it later as I wasn't planning on making it green.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/FbUsIwd.jpg[/t]
One [del]dinklebot[/del] Ghost from Destiny, fully-printed. Looking forward to getting the sand+paint job done on it.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/wVMTn5N.jpg[/t]
Also, that's a dry-fit pic. Took about 10-ish minutes of firm smacking on the front and back of the assembly to get the shell and core ball to fit together snugly, but now they're nigh-impossible to separate.
So the acrylic really is not holding up, got a big crack on the top plate (My fault for printing at stupid fast speeds all the time), managed to bodge it back together while I work on sourcing the materials for my next project. Going to convert over into a CoreXY style printer, with an aluminium extrusion frame. I already have everything I need other than a 200x200 print surface, Just arrived is one of the new Raspberry Pi Zero W to run OctaPrint and an E3D V6 as the main hot end.
If anyone else in the uk is looking for a decent price on 2020 Aluminium Extrusion, I found this on ebay after some considerable time hunting around. [URL="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20x20-Aluminium-Extrusion-Profile-5-x1m-Value-Pack-5mm-slot-Jigs-and-Frames-/272630685766?hash=item3f7a0e2046:g:VvUAAMXQuCdThmXF"]Link[/URL]
As for any kind of design? I'm just going to wing it and see what happens.
try [url]www.motedis.co.uk[/url] they have some kits that might work as well, if you just buy the extrusion your going to end up spending as much if not more of fixings
[QUOTE=waylander;52174851]try [url]www.motedis.co.uk[/url] they have some kits that might work as well, if you just buy the extrusion your going to end up spending as much if not more of fixings[/QUOTE]
Thanks for posting, these prices are actually better than buying from china, thanks!
So I'm finally able to upgrade my solidoodle 3. First thing I figure is an E3D V6 hotend, past that I think I'll upgrade the control board. I think it's a printrboard right now, but I want the option of multiple extrudes or an extrude fan.
Remember how I told you I wouldn't paint her? I lied
[t]http://i.imgur.com/1v9Y34m.jpg[/t]
[url]http://imgur.com/gallery/QY143[/url]
Its only taken me since August to get this far, but my slicer I've been writing at work is now 90% of the way there.
[URL="http://fuchstraumer.github.io/final_layer_1.html"]http://fuchstraumer.github.io/final_layer_1.html[/URL]
So far, its a hybrid of cura and slic3r with tons of the ugly torn out. No need for Perl like with Slic3r, and no odd bugs and memory leaks like Cura. Clean, simple Qt based UI. Cross-platform, so far. Easy config file setup with simple ".ini" files. The big feature is the functionally-defined infill. I don't have the scripting system hooked in yet, but eventual plan is to make it so you can define an infill shape in a python script and the slicer will call that when generating infill (right now you'd have to edit the C++ code). I take care of making sure it fits in the perimeters (although that clearly needs some tuning), you just fill a bounding box of points/lines for me. The hilbert curve stuff was just an example from Slic3r - and they did most of the work on making that possible, but they haven't really standardized the influence or opened that element up for scripting access afaik.
Admittedly, only problem is that I work for a private company and this is for a special gubmint contract so I probably can't immediately release it (I am quite insistent on it being open-sourced eventually, though). Its kinda like how NASA is running the competition to improve their FORTRAN code... but only US citizens are allowed to download the code and participate. I have submitted pull requests for a number of changes back into Slic3r though (which, by the way, has really recent builds despite not updating their bloody website) - I tried CURA but they were rude and just acted snobby when I tried to submit PRs. Which is unfortunate, because they could use some help. If you see an improved simplification algorithm in Slic3r though, that was from me! :D
I really wish I could share more about my work, this thread is probably one of the few places that would find my work cool. Most people kinda say "hunh?" when I talk about it (at best), or ask me about Made In Space ([I][B]UGH[/B][/I], so much UGH), so I don't usually get to share much of the cool shit I do with an interested audience.
[editline]25th May 2017[/editline]
[QUOTE=joshjet;52177950]So I'm finally able to upgrade my solidoodle 3. First thing I figure is an E3D V6 hotend, past that I think I'll upgrade the control board. I think it's a printrboard right now, but I want the option of multiple extrudes or an extrude fan.[/QUOTE]
Duet seems nice, we use them on most of our machines at work. Whatever it is, there's plenty of reasons to get off of printrboard and onto something newer. Duet lets you do Wifi printing stuff fairly easily (and fairly securely too), so that's pretty neat.
Can't go wrong with e3d hardware. They're pretty much all we have on our dozen and change machines at this point (and these machines range from RepRaps to car-sized machines to refurbed Dimension boxes)
Does anyone know if there is software to check a model for print issues like wall thickness? I'm going nuts trying to do it via a web tool with my shitty connection.
Getting my latest sculpt printed!
[T]http://i.imgur.com/rmm6rdQ.jpg[/T]
Sadly the supports failed and will need to be adjusted. But I can't wait to have the finished thing.
Been playing around with this Pi Zero W i've had sitting about for a while, it's fantastic being able to remotely reprogram my GT2560 over wifi using an arduino interface via the pi's SSH. (And of course octoPrint etc etc)
[T]http://i.imgur.com/AD6LfBk.jpg[/T] [T]https://vgy.me/Fy0lGm.png[/T]
T Slot brackets printed in clear PETG, no way in hell am I paying nearly £6 for each one of these made of aluminium.
Rock solid, no twist whatsoever.
[T]http://i.imgur.com/8ilhDhB.jpg[/T]
Meanwhile I just need to finish printing the stepper motor mounts for the HyperCube design and I should be good to go on dismantling the delta in the background. Showing some sings of wear and tear around the rose joints being sloppy as hell, not to mention the E3D v6 mount being... less than adequate... A hacksaw has had its way.
[T]http://i.imgur.com/S2sF6Ka.jpg[/T][T]http://i.imgur.com/9NdWHrx.jpg[/T]
Nothin' a cheap ziptie cant keep in place.
What would you say is the most robust and ''reliable'' 3D printer out there currently? At work we are selling off redundant machinery in order to buy a 3D printer for students to use. Whilst it will be used and operated by myself, we will be introducing it to Year 11, 12 and 13 students. In terms of bed size, what's the maximum you could get? Reason why I'm asking as we would like to 3D print on textiles. I've done a few laser cut samples (see image below) but we want to print ontop of fabrics to give it structure. From the sale of the redundant machinery we could get around £2000 towards a 3D printer.
[thumb]http://i.imgur.com/ArMmcDW.jpg[/thumb]
In terms of software what is one the east one to use? I've used Autodesk 123D make and sketchup. I was considering using Autodesk fusion 360, especially since we can get it free as we are an educational faculty.
Shit these prints are so cool, The made me jealous. I would love to 3d print a Majora's Mask...
I got too excited when I was converting my A8 to a 2040 extrusion frame that I broke my m5 tap in one of the holes. :c
Decided to model and print an alien i draw quite a lot, feel i got my style down pretty well
[t]https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/t51.2885-15/s480x480/e35/20214347_1429156907166629_1876659580298067968_n.jpg[/t]
Going to make a set of all three eventually
[t]https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/t51.2885-15/s750x750/sh0.08/e35/19121211_128587117720541_8032071786822631424_n.jpg[/t]
i want to get into 3d printing but i don't have a lot of money to buy higher-end ones, are there better options than the anet a8?
[t]http://i.imgur.com/98MZaCY.png[/t]
I printed some handles for a foosball table I'm trying to make.
Left is first version (too big) and right is second revision.
Still learning how to use fusion 360.
I'm very pleased with the Malyan M200 I got, only cost me £200 from [url=https://hobbyking.com/en_us/malyan-metal-3d-printer-m200.html]Hobbyking[/url] and it fits nicely on my desk, print quality seems to be quite good as well once I did a little tweaking.
I did consider getting a larger one but to be realistic how often do you need to print larger than 120x120x120, the full color LCD on it is also very nice.
[media]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MzAxYirqU_A[/media]
[t]https://us.v-cdn.net/5021068/uploads/editor/mq/inkac16sai3n.jpg[/t] [T]https://us.v-cdn.net/5021068/uploads/editor/2w/usyqnwn5vjyz.jpg[/T] [T]https://us.v-cdn.net/5021068/uploads/editor/bz/g1m0rxbmzaqp.jpg[/T]
I'm gonna 3d print this in 1/32 scale, so it should come out at 2ft long buffer to buffer. Wish me luck.
For those unaware, a recent stable release of marlin now includes the G33 command for delta style machines. This command has to be used with some kind of probe such as a inductive sensor bl touch etc and is able to spit out all the calibration information needed including Delta_Radius, a very important value for getting the correct calculations when translating on the X and Y axis. (This used to be calculated based on the rod length a few other variables but has always proved somewhat rough.)
TLDR: Setting up delta machines is really easy now with automatic calibration, even to the point of creating software offsets for the endstops.
My first thing on thingiverse is now finished!
[url]https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2502623[/url]
So apparently phosphorescent PLA is a thing
[img]https://puu.sh/xJ8zR.jpg[/img]
I don't know why I bought it :v:
I'm hyped to start making some printed objects more now since my college is getting a proper 3D-printing lab for students soon, complete with a resin printer...
Already got so many ideas.
[QUOTE=Paul-Simon;52718630]So apparently phosphorescent PLA is a thing
I don't know why I bought it :v:[/QUOTE]
You should print a dummy lightbulb that you can actually screw into places.
I still haven't finished building my CoreXY printer yet, but I managed to get my rostock delta to be really accurate after sorting out some loose bearing joints on the effector arms to the point where I'm having issues with the effector tilting when making X or Y moves. I've pined it down to the carriages tilting or twisting and sending the tilt down the arms into the effector of course the slightest effect on the carriages makes a huge change down below at the bottom of the effector. I've been trying to brain storm a few means of solving this, one of them was using double length bearings or stacking a set of two, or it could be just down to ALL of the bearings becoming worn out and the fact they were cheap cheap cheap.
Hey guys, would anyone here be willing to help me out by making some replacement parts for a retro air hockey table I bought? I'll gladly pay for your plastic+shipping.
[QUOTE=Grenadiac;52757253]Hey guys, would anyone here be willing to help me out by making some replacement parts for a retro air hockey table I bought? I'll gladly pay for your plastic+shipping.[/QUOTE]
I'm pretty experienced with Fusion 360.
I've shipped 3D printed to the US before, it's not too costly for light stuff like this.
If intercontinental stuff is an issue, that's fine. Otherwise, hit me up on Steam or PM's.
Added you!
I got an anet a8 just a couple of days ago and it's been working like a charm (after many hours of configuration) up until a print yesterday where the x motor decided to freak out (brief loud grinding noise before every print) and then start printing everything in the lower left corner rather than in the center like it did for the first 10 or so prints. It still prints fine, it's just offset, and that loud grinding noise is pretty scary. Problem is with it offset like this I can't really print anything reasonably large.
I haven't really changed anything, same settings in Cura, didn't touch anything on the printer really (I tightened both belts and straightened out the z rods but I did that well before this happened). Anyone got any ideas?
Couldn't find anything helpful from forums, not sure what keywords to use here other than "printing is offset" and "grinding noise" which is extremely ambiguous :why:
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3D printer thread - what have you been printing?
