3D printer thread - what have you been printing? - Creationism Corner

[QUOTE=boats;52781509]I got an anet a8 just a couple of days ago and it's been working like a charm (after many hours of configuration) up until a print yesterday where the x motor decided to freak out (brief loud grinding noise before every print) and then start printing everything in the lower left corner rather than in the center like it did for the first 10 or so prints. It still prints fine, it's just offset, and that loud grinding noise is pretty scary. Problem is with it offset like this I can't really print anything reasonably large. I haven't really changed anything, same settings in Cura, didn't touch anything on the printer really (I tightened both belts and straightened out the z rods but I did that well before this happened). Anyone got any ideas? Couldn't find anything helpful from forums, not sure what keywords to use here other than "printing is offset" and "grinding noise" which is extremely ambiguous :why:[/QUOTE] Any gears that could potentially grind (or "jump" a tooth or more) or belt-on-gear that could? Alternative is the stepper motor or stepper motor driver about to croak.

Maybe it is trying to move too quickly and jumps the teeth, that's kinda what it looks like, though I'm not sure and have no idea how to solve that. Going to print a belt tensioner later today though I'm not convinced I'll get it working because I already cut the belts mostly to size.

Is the stepper motor gear responsible for driving the belt plastic? could be that it's sub-par quality.

Yeah nevermind that "printing is fine" part, just did a quick print and ... [IMG]http://chry.me/up/5h5d9.jpg[/IMG] [QUOTE=Van-man;52781541]Is the stepper motor gear responsible for driving the belt plastic? could be that it's sub-par quality.[/QUOTE] I'm sorry but I'm quite the dum dum and am really not sure what that means. It's an anet a8, if that helps. Adjusted the belts some more and re-levelled the bed, and changed to a different profile in cura. Seems like it's for the most part fixed, let's see how this next one comes out.. edit: And it's fixed, for the most part. Some imperfections, but I think that's because the belt doesn't run entirely smoothly. There's always some artifacting in one edge or corner. As per usual, problem in chair, not in computer :v: [IMG]http://chry.me/up/5G3J7.jpg[/IMG]

Printed and painted a Bill Cipher now that I've got everything calibrated [IMG]https://orig00.deviantart.net/ef98/f/2017/292/4/6/bill_cipher_model_v3_by_chrypie-dbr2r25.jpg[/IMG]

Has anyone had any success printing models from games? I made an airtight and (hopefully) print-ready version of a ship I ripped from a game but I'm wondering if I could just chuck the original model into a printer and see if it interprets everything well enough.

[QUOTE=ElectricSquid;52822145]Has anyone had any success printing models from games? I made an airtight and (hopefully) print-ready version of a ship I ripped from a game but I'm wondering if I could just chuck the original model into a printer and see if it interprets everything well enough.[/QUOTE] I would chuck the model into a slicer (I use Cura) and just browse through the layers and see if it looks right, should be pretty obvious [editline]26th October 2017[/editline] I'm working on this [IMG]https://i.imgur.com/hBSs1Jt.jpg[/IMG]

I'll try that, but I'm new to 3D printing in general, I'm not sure what counts as "obvious" or not. [editline]27th October 2017[/editline] And Cura crashes on me every time I open it. Great.

So I just got my first 3D printer, and after a couple weeks of messing around with it at night, I think i've started to get the hang of it. These were my first successful print: [t]http://s.hruhf.in/2017-10/IMG_20171029_104047.jpg[/t] And this was my second: [t]http://s.hruhf.in/2017-10/IMG_20171029_104203.jpg[/t] [t]http://s.hruhf.in/2017-10/IMG_20171029_104828.jpg[/t] I'm really impressed with the level of detail this thing has, and I'm still using default layer settings. [QUOTE=ElectricSquid;52822145]Has anyone had any success printing models from games? I made an airtight and (hopefully) print-ready version of a ship I ripped from a game but I'm wondering if I could just chuck the original model into a printer and see if it interprets everything well enough.[/QUOTE] My second print there is a model from WoT. I'm still very inexperienced myself, but things that choked me up were: Thin surfaces: The sideskirts and stowage boxes are so thin that they deformed during cleaning and are breaking off. I should have thickened them a bit. Internal details: Things like some of the wheels inside the tracks were technically floating and hence needed supports [I]inside[/I] the model, and they're easy to miss since they're hidden away. I didn't notice it until I went through the layers one by one for verification.

Holy shit what printer is it?

[QUOTE=~ZOMG;52834121]Holy shit what printer is it?[/QUOTE] It's the Duplicator 7, which is a DLP resin printer.

Been working on some camera shit lately, and yesterday a friend of mine asked if I wanted to join him and build a "shaky cam" rig. Having no idea what that meant, he sent me this picture: [img]http://puu.sh/ybmUz.png[/img] :v: After he explained his abstract artwork, I threw together this in Fusion 360: [img]http://puu.sh/ybmS5.png[/img] Basically it's a 2-man camera rig, meant to be held between two people which makes it possible to do otherwise difficult camera movements (i.e. swooping over a car) Other than the handles & red mountings in the middle, it uses a clamp I made recently for holding Arca Swiss camera plates. The design can be viewed here: [url]http://a360.co/2z08xKo[/url]

you could probably turn that into a slider really easy as well

[QUOTE=waylander;52840163]you could probably turn that into a slider really easy as well[/QUOTE] Oh i'm sure. I guess i have to invest in some ball bearings. [editline]31st October 2017[/editline] Holy shit ball bearings are cheap on eBay

[QUOTE=Paul-Simon;52840219]Oh i'm sure. I guess i have to invest in some ball bearings. [editline]31st October 2017[/editline] Holy shit ball bearings are cheap on eBay[/QUOTE] Everything's cheap when you buy from Cheapistan! Top quality $1 lead-based paint included! :v:

[QUOTE=Paul-Simon;52840219]Oh i'm sure. I guess i have to invest in some ball bearings. [editline]31st October 2017[/editline] Holy shit ball bearings are cheap on eBay[/QUOTE] Next step is stepper motors (hurr) and controller for them. Feature creep.

[t]https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/372893880451989510/375026577899126785/JPEG_20171031_170130.jpg?width=415&height=553[/t] Started 3D-printing a replica of the Exotic hand cannon Sunshot from Destiny 2 today; first batch of parts should be done and ready for assembling tomorrow afternoon...

Cross-posting from the Halo thread, I finished my Pillar of Autumn print: (Open the pics in a new tab so they're oriented the right way up) [t]https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/194331573003223041/375138836768096257/image.jpg[/t] [t]https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/194331573003223041/375138762226925568/image.jpg[/t]

Gonna be trying out the college's 3D printer today. Hopefully it's alright enough to make at least medium-quality D&D miniatures. Wish me luck

Ugh, my Sunshot print got paused overnight because the Makerbot jammed and now I have to go fix it whenever the lab opens up again today. Is there any way short of manually respooling an entire thing of filament to make sure it doesn't jam/pull out of the extruder?

[t]http://chry.me/up/35422.jpg[/t] Been working on this over the past couple of days. Need to figure out a less flimsy stand and touch up some of the paint. It's about 40cm long, printed in a whole bunch of individual parts.

[QUOTE=ScriptKitt3h;52843856]Ugh, my Sunshot print got paused overnight because the Makerbot jammed and now I have to go fix it whenever the lab opens up again today. Is there any way short of manually respooling an entire thing of filament to make sure it doesn't jam/pull out of the extruder?[/QUOTE] Jams are relatively rare in my experiece. It's happened about 3-4 times during my 1 year of owning a 3D printer and using it nearly daily. To avoid them, I recommend checking the outer layers of the spool and see if you see any potential knot formations. If you see the end bit of the filament go under some of the deeper filament, pull it out. Simple knots like that can occur just from moving the spools around, and in my experience only happen on the outer, loose thread layers. [editline]1st November 2017[/editline] [img]http://puu.sh/yclBr.png[/img] finished it

[QUOTE=Paul-Simon;52843958]Jams are relatively rare in my experiece. It's happened about 3-4 times during my 1 year of owning a 3D printer and using it nearly daily. To avoid them, I recommend checking the outer layers of the spool and see if you see any potential knot formations. If you see the end bit of the filament go under some of the deeper filament, pull it out. Simple knots like that can occur just from moving the spools around, and in my experience only happen on the outer, loose thread layers.[/QUOTE] I wound up having to unjam it again after I cleared the overnight jam and it had the same issue while I kept an eye on it- wound up having to unwind almost half the spool since the Makerbot folks or whomever had set it up for that student lab printer left a bunch of kinked/overlapped sections that the filament feed was getting stuck due to. Ran just fine after.

Is there any reason to keep excess print material, like the scaffolding bits I've removed? I don't know if they can be melted back down into additional filament or what.

[QUOTE=ElectricSquid;52846468]Is there any reason to keep excess print material, like the scaffolding bits I've removed? I don't know if they can be melted back down into additional filament or what.[/QUOTE] PLA can be melted down and respooled, but the equipment is kinda expensive at the moment. I still recommend keeping the stuff until a machine like that becomes cheaper.

[QUOTE=ElectricSquid;52846468]Is there any reason to keep excess print material, like the scaffolding bits I've removed? I don't know if they can be melted back down into additional filament or what.[/QUOTE] If you print in ABS, you can throw your scaffolding or your failed prints in a jar of acetone and it'll melt down into a gel that you can then you as a filler. Just do note that unless your jar has a perfect seal, the acetone will eventually evaporate and you'll end up with a jar of plastic that you need to rehydrate with fresh acetone, so it might be better to only make it when you need it.

Just bought a CR10 from gear best. Says its been shipped. Cant wait to post in this thread with things i'll be making!

I've been messing around with the College's 3d printer, which is a Makerbot Replicator Z18, and I think it's pretty cool. Prints are alright for the D&D models, but I feel like I want something more high-resolution. I saw last page those Duplicator 7 prints and goddamn do they look fine, resin printing seems to have some high-quality stuff, and at around 500$ that printer seems like a steal for it's quality. Probably some horrible issue to it though. Can't get quality and cheap without some issues.

[QUOTE=Pilotguy97;52846965]If you print in ABS, you can throw your scaffolding or your failed prints in a jar of acetone and it'll melt down into a gel that you can then you as a filler. Just do note that unless your jar has a perfect seal, the acetone will eventually evaporate and you'll end up with a jar of plastic that you need to rehydrate with fresh acetone, so it might be better to only make it when you need it.[/QUOTE] ...Filler? If it's a gel, how does a printer use it?

[QUOTE=ElectricSquid;52850089]...Filler? If it's a gel, how does a printer use it?[/QUOTE] It doesn't. Unless you buy a machine as Paul-simon said, there's no way to reuse your offcuts in the printer itself. The filler is for post-print touchups, like for example if you have a multi-part print and you either need to cover a seam, or you need to basically weld the two parts together. Just be careful with it though. Obviously the filler works because ABS plastic melts in acetone, so if you slather too much on, you'll mar the print itself.