I'm not one to spend months painting a figure, I spend a few hours at most. and that covered in blood look is pretty much exactly what I was going for. Camera on the first bloodied picture highlighted it a lot. this one is more accurate.
https://feen.us/oow1uv.png
it takes 10 additional seconds to thin your paints
Practice on Army Men. Seriously. The model looks like it has some interesting details but they're all muddied up and blend into everything else because none of the details stand-out.
Can anyone tell me what causes this? It happened to a few of my prints, it's long strands of disconnected plastic. I feel like it might have something to do with temperature maybe? I usually print this PLA around 200c, so maybe I need to bump it up to 210 or something. I can't seem to find anything on those "Print issue troubleshooting" pages about it, and being new to this whole thing I'm totally lost, and it only happened a few times.
Definitely sounds like an extrusion temperature problem or failing that dirty filament. Try bumping it up a bit as well as keeping your bed heated.
Unfortunately I don't have a heated bed, I'm using a Flashforge Finder. I'll print at slightly higher temps from now on to see if that fixes it. It's tough because everything before prints fine, then part way into the print it happens but I don't notice it until the print is finished.
Why are you printing at lower than the default 220°C?
I've seen this happen a few times. I believe increasing extrusion ratio would also help solve it.
My first print that I did at the default 220 turned out weird so I thought lowering the temperature would fix things. I'm still learning, so I'm just going through different settings and experimenting really. I also kept reading that 220 was a high temperature for PLA, but I guess it's a very case-by-case thing. My extrusion ratio is at 109% right now, I think it's the default. Everything I've printed so far has been at 109% and some things turned out great while others not so much. It's frustrating, but kind of fun learning different settings to tweak to change how a print turns out.
I've never strayed from 220°C, and it's been pretty solid for me.
I used to have some stringing, but I upped the retraction setting from 1.3mm to 2mm, and that fixed it entirely.
Add me on Steam if you want to chat about the Finder. Steam Community
http://puu.sh/zXLk6.png
http://puu.sh/zXLn0.png
Simple monitor stand for speakers.
https://puu.sh/zX3Li.png
So a really nice Redditor sent me some filament he was giving away for free
https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/619/1e50651c-0254-4323-98ce-627d01d646d7/IMG_20180406_164436220.jpg
Protip: add tiny supports to stuff like hair manually to make it much more printable
https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/619/95b419a3-d452-458a-9a0d-f31f2d606b34/cc51164.png
Custom supports are a must in many cases.
In Fusion 360, I tend to use the "web" function to turn a line path into supports with some height and width equal to printer nozzle (0.4mm).
http://puu.sh/zYdzi.png
Do you have to clip off the supports or something? My printer differentiates between support material and the body of the model and builds each in a different way, and does the supports in such a way that they don't (usually) strongly connect to the body of the print.
I make sure there's a space between the supports and the structure. Somewhere around 0.2mm.
That's pretty much how your printer program builds supports.
No dice, I think it just merges/loses detail at that kind of scale.
I print some PLA at as low as 195 and as high as 230. It depends entirely on the quality of the filament, the dye and the manufacturer. Don't bash the kid for experimenting, playing with temp is valid to try and get a better print.
Not bashing him at all. Was just asking, as I'd never found a need to change the temp.
Friend of mine suggested leveling the bed carefully or cleaning the extruder assembly
Well that figures, I guess.
I bought this Tevo Tarantula when I still had a job, thinking things were looking up for me. Then I got fired for what I can only perceive as a horse-shit reason, meaning that I effectively blew $285~ of potential bill money on a 3D printer.
But fine. Maybe I can make something of it and get some money printing knick-knacks.
So it comes in today, and sure enough, it comes with every single possible tool I could need, EXCEPT for a measurement device.
I have a tape-measure, but I can't find it. It's not in my tool-bag, it's not in my Warmachines box (the last place I remember seeing it), and turning the place upside-down hasn't yielded anything but a tiny, inches-only (the instructions measure in millimeters) and faded-as-fuck tape-measure. My calipers don't go nearly far enough to measure the distance I need to finish the very first god-damn page of instructions.
Me: Well things look bleak but maybe at least putting this neat machine together will lift my spirits...
Life: Sit the fuck down, bitch, you're behind on this year's quota of feeling like shit!
Ordered a Creality Ender-2 last month. It arrives, I build it. Install stepper dampers, replace the loud power supply and print a fan shroud. Prints perfectly. Very happy with it.
A week later the Ender-3 is announced, Pre-sale of £113. Obviously at that price I have to buy it.
I have since sold my Ender-2 for a little more than I paid for it including all the upgrades and have been waiting for two weeks for my new printer to ship. It's killing me.
In the mean time i've managed to order £70 worth of upgrades for my new printer which has yet to arrive: 2x Noctua Fans, 1x Silent Fan for PSU, Borosilicate glass bed, Stepper Dampers, Capricorn PTFE tubing, V6 Chinese All-metal hotend, Rubber feet, Voltage regulators etc the list goes on.
That's 60% of the cost of my printer ffs
Went to Hazard Fraught, got a ruler.
Made it to the X-axis carriage stage of the instructions (which are pretty bad IMO, there's inconsistencies between the video instructions and the written ones )when I found a particularly stubborn T-nut that refused to thread. Turns out this was because it didn't have any threads. :why:
Thankfully I have a metric tap and die set.
Oh hey I never saw this thread. A colleague of mine does a loooot of 3D printing. He's working on parametric lego-compatible stuff, open source and all that:
https://github.com/LEGO-compatible-gadgets/PELA-parametric-blocks
He even printed flexible blocks, that was quite interesting.
So now that I have this Tarantula mostly assembled (just need power/firmware updates), couple of things about it I think Tevo could do much, much better in the future.
1) Better written instructions. Yeah, they "have a video", but honestly the mechanical parts of this thing are simple enough that you just need to know where they go, and the written manual fails hard on that front, as I've noted a few inconsistencies between the manual and the video.
2) Better QC. That nut lacking in any threads would be a major inconvenience to anyone who didn't happen to have a metric tap and die set on hand. This could also be easily alleviated by just including a bag of "spare parts" that includes things like few bolts, some of those nuts, and washers.
3) The main circuit board has a strange lay-out. It seems like they want you to orient it one way, but the USB port would then be facing inward, making it awkward to hook up a cable to update firmware/send print files, if one so chose to, but flipping it around the other way means you're limited in how low you can mount it. Plus the bolts they included to mount the cooling fan literally don't fit through the holes quite right, but at least they thread into them because there's not enough of the tiny nuts in this bag to mount the fan otherwise.
4) They could have included electrical connectors for the power connections (the crimp-on pieces they mention as required in the video), because like hell I can find something like that locally, and I don't feel like buying more shit on eBay. Surely it wouldn't add much to the cost to include them?
5) Packing could be better, particularly for the electronics. There were two stepper-drivers with smashed pins, as well as several smashed pins on the main control board. But the two free rolls of PLA were also packed in such a way that there were already holes in the bags by the time I got them out of there (hope it wasn't from the factory like that, the piddly amount of silica gel they include in the bags wouldn't keep them dry enough). Thankfully none of the plastic bits were broken, at least.
6) What is with this power supply switch?! I've messed with a handful of power supplies in my day, and this is the first one I've seen that requires you to poke into it, most give every warning to stay the fuck out of them.
https://imgur.com/dpVDlV0
Does not sound like a well designed or manufactured printer
I printed a Lucoa for commission
Sorry for rediculous proportions but I was proud of my paint job
https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/619/422ad9c8-5b9c-4ade-ac1a-2d96c0c3432d/IMG_20180411_203029599.jpg
https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/619/47eca2dc-6a6b-4af5-be9b-4a5d13b1a1cf/IMG_20180411_202921885.jpg
Design-wise it's fine sans that Z-axis bracket (they could have just as easily made it out of thin aluminum and it'd be sturdier, in fact if I can get appropriate dimensions I may just try that), but assembly is a bitch because the instructions are garbage. It's like trying to assemble the K'Nex roller-coaster with only half of the directions.
Update:
Despite the suggestions from the included booklet and from various users in the Facebook group, turns out the recommended E-steps/mm settings were WAY too low for this thing, resulting in massive under-extrusion. Booklet suggested starting with 376.14, other users say they use 416.summat, I ended up having to use 710.
But the prints are now turning out MUCH better despite the wobbly-ass print bed and insensitive (indifferent? ) induction sensor bumping the print every so often (gonna have to dig up some optocouplers from my Empire of Scrap I guess).
https://i.imgur.com/RDxX96w.jpg
new to 3d printing, what's causing this on some builds?
some are perfect, some spaghettify like this
dremel 3d40
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3D printer thread - what have you been printing?
