Finally got my Reprap printing :dance:
[IMG]https://www.dropbox.com/s/cfs0cw4v2akw95h/20140119_233947.jpeg?dl=1[/IMG]
[IMG]https://www.dropbox.com/s/r9xz90xqe7zssa5/20140119_232148.jpeg?dl=1[/IMG]
Any tips on how to improve stickyness of print surface?
I'm currently trying out hairspray on glass and kapton tape but the adhesion is so-so
[QUOTE=reeferdk;43598580]Finally got my Reprap printing :dance:
[IMG]https://www.dropbox.com/s/cfs0cw4v2akw95h/20140119_233947.jpeg?dl=1[/IMG]
[IMG]https://www.dropbox.com/s/r9xz90xqe7zssa5/20140119_232148.jpeg?dl=1[/IMG]
Any tips on how to improve stickyness of print surface?
I'm currently trying out hairspray on glass and kapton tape but the adhesion is so-so[/QUOTE]
For adhesion i used shapelock on a hot plate but im not sure it's ideal sense im the only one i know who does it.
[QUOTE=reeferdk;43598580]Finally got my Reprap printing :dance:
Any tips on how to improve stickyness of print surface?
I'm currently trying out hairspray on glass and kapton tape but the adhesion is so-so[/QUOTE]
I would just lose the polyimide tape and go with hairspray on glass. I assume your bed is heated? When I am having a really hard time with a specific print, I'll clean the glass really well with acetone, then glass cleaner, and give it a good 5-10 second misting of hairspray to get it really covered, then bake it on the hot bed for a while, then spray again, then print. It sounds complicated but it almost always works for me. The hairspray is more for increasing surface area from the tiny bumps it creates than actually being sticky IIRC. Baking a layer on and then applying a fresh layer seems to be the best IMO.
and of course, make sure your bed is perfectly level in relation to your hotend, and the distance between your hotend and bed is correct. This needs to be really precise, as I'm sure you already know, so using a dial gauge is recommended
Finally got a slightly newer version of skeinforge working. Last time everytime I tried to slice with anything other than solidoodle's skeinforge it just comes out as an empty code.
For the first time in about a year I get to print support materials. :suicide:
[QUOTE=frozensoda;43611415]I would just lose the polyimide tape and go with hairspray on glass. I assume your bed is heated? When I am having a really hard time with a specific print, I'll clean the glass really well with acetone, then glass cleaner, and give it a good 5-10 second misting of hairspray to get it really covered, then bake it on the hot bed for a while, then spray again, then print. It sounds complicated but it almost always works for me. The hairspray is more for increasing surface area from the tiny bumps it creates than actually being sticky IIRC. Baking a layer on and then applying a fresh layer seems to be the best IMO.
and of course, make sure your bed is perfectly level in relation to your hotend, and the distance between your hotend and bed is correct. This needs to be really precise, as I'm sure you already know, so using a dial gauge is recommended[/QUOTE]
Yeah I was actually having problems with the heated bed not staying level (The screws holding it doesn't have lock nuts, its impossible to find M3 locknuts around here...)
hmm I haven't been able to print with the ninjaflex yet, but I have it and it's not plastic like soft pla.
[QUOTE=Ithon;43636256]hmm I haven't been able to print with the ninjaflex yet, but I have it and it's not plastic like soft pla.[/QUOTE]
im really interested to see how the extruder handles the softness of it. I can't even print with Laywoo-D3 cause it's too... gummy when it melts.
Extruder got clogged for the very first time in a year.
I'm guessing its because of the black filament. The ones povided by solidoodle had many clog up case reviews.
Also I got bored, so I thought why not. Took me the whole day to come out with a four piece design only to found out someone already made one at thingiverse. :v:
[img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32814946/1557609_10202899141101045_1161209486_n.jpg[/img]
I entrusted my baby to a girl I know so that she could set it up for a science expo tomorrow. I'm going to be there talking about 3D printing. Also, on the topic of getting parts to stick, supposedly [url=http://www.garnierusa.com/_en/_us/our_products/product-struct.aspx?tpcode=OUR_PRODUCTS%5EPRD_STYLING%5EFRUCTIS_STYLE%5ESTYLE_DISCOVER%5ESTYLE_FULL_CONTROL%5ESTYLE_FULL_CONTROL_RTN1&prdcode=P60106]this[/url] hairspray does really well with a good application to the print bed, it's what my school uses, but I haven't gotten around to trying it yet.
Personally just use heated bed at around 63*C. If I have issues with it lifting, it's usually because there is dust or grease on the glass plate. Quick wipe down with acetone fixes it.
have u ever considered 3d printing guns? I was reading about it a couple months ago and its apparently a new thing and there are very few laws regarding them.
[video=youtube;g3eDSGVsLQU]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g3eDSGVsLQU[/video]
[url]https://defcad.com/[/url]
search liberator (name of a 3d printable pistol). there are very interesting plans on this site, definitely not limited to weaps. I was mind blown discovering you can make a functional firearm with 3d printer plastic. I dont have a printer of my own so I couldn't make this
[QUOTE=noh_mercy;43694680]have u ever considered 3d printing guns? I was reading about it a couple months ago and its apparently a new thing and there are very few laws regarding them.
[video=youtube;g3eDSGVsLQU]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g3eDSGVsLQU[/video]
[url]https://defcad.com/[/url]
search liberator (name of a 3d printable pistol). there are very interesting plans on this site, definitely not limited to weaps. I was mind blown discovering you can make a functional firearm with 3d printer plastic. I dont have a printer of my own so I couldn't make this[/QUOTE]
It's not particularly new,the news is going on for a year old. And no, for one it's not suitable for my printer, I'd be more likely to injure myself if I built one of these. The one in the video doesn't look like it's been made by extruding like most of us use, probably a blown powder method or other industrial grade print, and finally it's highly illegal in the UK since it's a firearm.
Finally, on a personal level, it just doesn't appeal to me. I'm more of an electronics electromechanical type, I'd rather print casings for my electronics or keyrings.
[QUOTE=metallics;43681350]Personally just use heated bed at around 63*C. If I have issues with it lifting, it's usually because there is dust or grease on the glass plate. Quick wipe down with acetone fixes it.[/QUOTE]
Yeah i found out that it must be REALLY clean if you only use a heated glass plate.
Im using sanded kapton at the moment, it sticks REALLY well and the surface looks OK (I use 220grain sandpaper, rougher would probably be better, but its all i got) Plate can be reused till you tear the kapton, which will happen over time as the print sticks really well.
[QUOTE=reeferdk;43697684]Yeah i found out that it must be REALLY clean if you only use a heated glass plate.
Im using sanded kapton at the moment, it sticks REALLY well and the surface looks OK (I use 220grain sandpaper, rougher would probably be better, but its all i got) Plate can be reused till you tear the kapton, which will happen over time as the print sticks really well.[/QUOTE]
Not sure about really clean, I just give it a quick wipe every few prints. Sticks really well (I can never shift a print till the bed has dropped down to about 40*C) Lifting problems I find are more often to do with z axis issues (poor calibration, loosing calibration, printhead axis of x travel not parallel to bed due to issues with z axis runners etc)
Z-Axis issues have led to some headeaches, hopefully it is a thing of the past as I found some proper locknuts to hold my bed in place and printed some better endstops.
I might give clean glass another go soon, but so far that sanded kapton is really working out well.
Print of the day:
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/u9wdcovwpj3cuxb/20140128_230551.jpg?dl=1&token_hash=AAHMOvWbXATJE6GX9PcoKUVKHxld0x1BEOQI4gGCox2UZA[/t]
A part for a simple arduino robot, I'm going to add a mount for a smartphone and some wheel of course :-)
[QUOTE=noh_mercy;43694680]have u ever considered 3d printing guns? I was reading about it a couple months ago and its apparently a new thing and there are very few laws regarding them.
[video=youtube;g3eDSGVsLQU]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g3eDSGVsLQU[/video]
[url]https://defcad.com/[/url]
search liberator (name of a 3d printable pistol). there are very interesting plans on this site, definitely not limited to weaps. I was mind blown discovering you can make a functional firearm with 3d printer plastic. I dont have a printer of my own so I couldn't make this[/QUOTE]
3D printers are for creating works of art and innovating industry, not killing people. There are much cheaper and easier ways of making a gun if you really want to do so.
I have printed here some things with my Velleman K8200 :smile:
Warhammer 40k logo
[t]http://abload.de/img/img_10441djap.jpg[/t]
Kingdom Hearts: Keyblade
[t]http://abload.de/img/img_1045bgkcd.jpg[/t]
Wrench (working :P)
[t]http://abload.de/img/img_1046gbjvx.jpg[/t]
VW logo keychain
[t]http://abload.de/img/img_1047efkb3.jpg[/t]
Ninja Star
[t]http://abload.de/img/img_104890kim.jpg[/t]
Half-Life logo
[t]http://abload.de/img/img_1049hzjfv.jpg[/t]
Lego bricks
[t]http://abload.de/img/img_1050nckwo.jpg[/t]
Face-ring
[t]http://abload.de/img/img_10512dj40.jpg[/t][t]http://abload.de/img/img_1052vdjuw.jpg[/t]
Fallout Stimpack
[t]http://abload.de/img/img_1053otkkv.jpg[/t][t]http://abload.de/img/img_1054mtjw3.jpg[/t]
Batarang
[t]http://abload.de/img/img_1055nyk8e.jpg[/t]
I love that Batarang, man. Very nice work on everything!
[QUOTE=frozensoda;43707652]3D printers are for creating works of art and innovating industry, not killing people. There are much cheaper and easier ways of making a gun if you really want to do so.[/QUOTE]
looking at guns as purely tools of murder is a very very narrow way of looking at them. Not only that, but using 3d made guns commit crimes or hunt is also extremely inefficient because that weak plastic is likely to explode if not constructed correctly. You insult many people by saying this.
P.s. guns are a work of art too, and 3d printing is definitely one of the cheapest ways to make one.
[QUOTE=noh_mercy;43720831]looking at guns as purely tools of murder is a very very narrow way of looking at them. Not only that, but using 3d made guns commit crimes or hunt is also extremely inefficient because that weak plastic is likely to explode if not constructed correctly. You insult many people by saying this.
P.s. guns are a work of art too, and 3d printing is definitely one of the cheapest ways to make one.[/QUOTE]
3d printing is not nearly the cheapest way to make a gun, and I never said that they were [I]only[/I] a tool for killing people, but that's what defcad is. defcad is run by insane people who think that a 3d printed gun will start some revolution. I appreciate guns as much as any other american, but 3d printers simply are not meant for this. If you want to spend $1,500 to make a hand-remover, be my guest.
if you can successfully hunt with that thing, you are a true master. That gun has no other intended purpose than to maim(I would say kill, but you'd have to be really lucky to pull that off with it)
frankly I'm getting kind of sick of every discussion about 3d printers ending up about plastic guns.
[QUOTE=frozensoda;43721606]3d printing is not nearly the cheapest way to make a gun, and I never said that they were [I]only[/I] a tool for killing people, but that's what defcad is. defcad is run by insane people who think that a 3d printed gun will start some revolution. I appreciate guns as much as any other american, but 3d printers simply are not meant for this. If you want to spend $1,500 to make a hand-remover, be my guest.
if you can successfully hunt with that thing, you are a true master. That gun has no other intended purpose than to maim(I would say kill, but you'd have to be really lucky to pull that off with it)
frankly I'm getting kind of sick of every discussion about 3d printers ending up about plastic guns.[/QUOTE]
Ok, I understand that guns aren't your favorite way to spend plastic, however it certainly sounded that you were implying that guns = tools of destruction/murder by saying "3D printers are for creating works of art and innovating industry, not killing people". Defcad run by insane people starting to start a revolution w/ a 3d gun? debatable. But I will say that gun models make up a fraction of all the models they have there and its all uploaded by random people, kinda like a "pirate bay" of models (just without being illegal). As for the purpose of the gun, its definitely not to maim or injure (that could easily be accomplished with a fist or rock + its free), that gun marks a historical milestone, being the first fully functional 3d printed gun, and one of those liberators are sitting in the V&A Museum now. [url]http://www.dezeen.com/2013/09/15/va-museum-acquires-first-3d-printed-gun/[/url] . That gun just underlines near limitless possibilities of 3d printing. I assumed that people here were in college or something cause I could easily get access to a 3d printer without spending +1k at my college. I don't understand how anyone can say "3d printers are not meant for ____" that makes 0 sense to me. Anyway "to each his own" is what I say.
I've been working on a Star Wars inspired prop gun for a while now in Sketchup and I kinda want a real life version of it, so is there maybe someone who can help me prep a Sketchup model for 3d printing ?
For those curious: [url]http://imgur.com/a/kJ5dg#0[/url]
What are you planning on printing it on?
Made a few adjustments to my printer last night. I had the extruder mounted backwards so I had approximately 6cm less movement on X-axis. Now i can finally print big things :-)
Like this glow-in-the-dark octopus tablet holder thingy
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/otnck9er042mqcc/20140202_214427.jpg?dl=1&token_hash=AAF9ml86ROKmdJBJFaSniRJ48nSNn6tOu6ljXlu3tq52MQ[/t]
I don't know a lot about the printer in question but I do know it has a printing area of 20cm by 20cm.
Are there more things I need to know?
I did an experiment with soft pla last month, nothing fancy just proof of concept.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/nCt7mWo.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/zl6jCVm.jpg[/IMG][IMG]http://i.imgur.com/IKJfqcu.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/DOolEOY.jpg[/IMG]
[QUOTE=SubZero;43771033]I don't know a lot about the printer in question but I do know it has a printing area of 20cm by 20cm.
Are there more things I need to know?[/QUOTE]
Well I was just wondering if you'd be sending it off to shapeways or something, but I guess not. All you really have to do is make sure the model is manifold (can exist in real life, I suggest using [url=http://www.netfabb.com/]this[/url] software, it has a free version. You need to split it into parts so that it can be printed in sections. I don't know what else to say. Support material (material that's put down to help support overhangs) can help most things, but I would suggest positioning it so that it uses as little of it as possible.
I've been printing some different Ocarinas and recorders, ill upload some pics and maybe a video of how they sound a little later. So far they aren't great but they work(ish)
[T]http://i.imgur.com/0fgKUGu.jpg[/T]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/uLDh5ut.jpg[/T]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/Ea7NErs.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/rqXacVn.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/j3GNuxq.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/wKJVQ0z.jpg[/t]
The two halves of the print came out beautifully initially, the outer quality was great. There was some stringy stuff on the tops inside but you can't see it when assembled, and it doesn't seem to have affected the quality of the sound. It works much better than the last one I printed. I can't actually play it, but this is a "traditional" one so there are plenty of fingering guides and whatnot. Hopefully I'll learn to play with this.
I printed this solid on 0.1mm layers with infill every 2nd layer. Because of this it has a nice weight to it, it feels good in my hand.
One side warped slightly, so you see a gap. I filled that with a pvc sealant and used acetone to melt it together. It is totally sealed even though it doesn't look like it. There is also a bit of dirt from my fingers on the seam, once it is painted you won't see any of that. I'm gonna do a bit of really fine grain sanding to the holes to clear out some of the junk, but overall i'm extremely satisfied with the quality of the print. It should be easy cleanup.
video:
[video=youtube;nL9_KmvDo8E]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nL9_KmvDo8E[/video]
(keep in mind that my fingering sucks, so the tone is off)
it really sounds quite nice I think.
[url]www.thingiverse.com/thing:234512[/url]
I wanted to print one of those too, but im too busy with work and my dad just got hospitalized (I have the printer at his place)
Also robots!
[t]http://imgur.com/UAAtQzV.jpg[/t]
[t]http://imgur.com/tnf275F.jpg[/t]
The parts didn't come out right so i had to warm it up with a lighter hence the black stains on the plastic. Hope I can print again soon.
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3D printer thread - what have you been printing?
