I'd go for the AVR if only for the well-supported FOSS toolchain. I think software is one place where the TI launchpads can't even hope to touch AVRs.
For starting out, the Arduino isn't a bad choice.
Starting out with AVRs could be a bit tough, especially with no prior programming knowledge.
If starting from ground zero then I would recommend something really basic, PICAXE or Arduino. PICAXE has a basic syntax, makes sense. For example I wrote a PICAXE program when I was 8, its a nice language.
I then moved to the arduino because of the huge community behind it.
[QUOTE=DrLuke;32179465]For starting out, the Arduino isn't a bad choice.
Starting out with AVRs could be a bit tough, especially with no prior programming knowledge.[/QUOTE]
Same shit.
The Arduino is just a fancy IDE and bootloader for the same chip, and the whole mess uses the same exact same toolchain. So when I say "AVR is awesome", Arduino is generally awesome by extension.
[QUOTE=ROBO_DONUT;32181494]Same shit.
The Arduino is just a fancy IDE and bootloader for the same chip, and the whole mess uses the same exact same toolchain. So when I say "AVR is awesome", [B]Arduino is generally awesome by extension[/B].[/QUOTE]
You should take a look into the sourcecode sometime, it's a bit messy here and there. (everywhere)
He should've increased the voltage until it burst into flames, just like that vacuum cleaner
[editline]9th September 2011[/editline]
Also, look what someone made:
[img]http://hackadaycom.files.wordpress.com/2011/09/audioino_programming_arduino_with_sound.jpg?w=470&h=344[/img]
[url]http://hackaday.com/2011/09/09/program-an-arduino-using-your-sound-card/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+hackaday%2FLgoM+%28Hack+a+Day%29[/url]
It basically let's you convert an arduino sketch into a soundfile and program it with that.
I need some help. I ordered a Usbasp for my arduino which I somehow bricked. The problem is that the wire from the programmer has 2x5 pins. The arduino only has 2x3 pins. What do I do?
You can make an adapter.
[IMG]http://www.lizarum.com/assignments/physical_computing/images/avr/target_board/avrtargetboards_1.jpg[/IMG]
You can buy adapter cables aswell, or make your own out of shrouded headers. Sparkfun for example is selling these. Also ebay.
I figured I would ask here as well. I am having problems re-burning the bootloader on my arduino with an atmega328p. What I did (being the impatent cheapskate I am) was I soldiered some wires to the underside of the ISCP pins on the arduino. I then plugged them ([b]correctly[/b]) into the corresponding pins on the 2x5 cable. When I plug it in (the programmer into the usb port that is) it lights up yellow, and the ON light goes on on the arduino. Using the arduino IDE I try to burn the bootloader. It tells me the board does not respond
[code]
avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00
[/code]
I tried another program called eXtreme burner recomended by the site that hosts the drivers for UsbASP. It manages to get some lights to flash (a green one on the usb piece and the 'L' led on the arduino) but it errors saying
[code]
Power on failed...
Cannot communicate with target chip!
[/code]
What do I do?
(chip is used (as opposed to new))
[QUOTE=bobthe2lol;32239052]I figured I would ask here as well. I am having problems re-burning the bootloader on my arduino with an atmega328p. What I did (being the impatent cheapskate I am) was I soldiered some wires to the underside of the ISCP pins on the arduino. I then plugged them ([b]correctly[/b]) into the corresponding pins on the 2x5 cable. When I plug it in (the programmer into the usb port that is) it lights up yellow, and the ON light goes on on the arduino. Using the arduino IDE I try to burn the bootloader. It tells me the board does not respond
[code]
avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00
[/code]
I tried another program called eXtreme burner recomended by the site that hosts the drivers for UsbASP. It manages to get some lights to flash (a green one on the usb piece and the 'L' led on the arduino) but it errors saying
[code]
Power on failed...
Cannot communicate with target chip!
[/code]
What do I do?
(chip is used (as opposed to new))[/QUOTE]
If you are sure everything is connected properly it could be that the chip has the incorrect fusebits or has the lockbits set.
[QUOTE=ddrl46;32240982]If you are sure everything is connected properly it could be that the chip has the incorrect fusebits or has the lockbits set.[/QUOTE]
How does one remedy this?
Also, another question. Are there things like breadboards (as in, have connected rows) but that you can solder to?
[QUOTE=bobthe2lol;32243522]How does one remedy this?
Also, another question. Are there things like breadboards (as in, have connected rows) but that you can solder to?[/QUOTE]
Yes, it's called veroboard / padboard / protoyping board.
So, with pcb-pool.com, you can get 100 pcbs, 10mm x 10mm for 44€ + shipping. That's pretty interesting!
What are you going to fit on a 10mm^2 board?
[QUOTE=Xera;32249665]What are you going to fit on a 10mm^2 board?[/QUOTE]
You can fit a lot of stuff on such a small pcb. An arduino clone, a simple power supply, you name it.
[QUOTE=DrLuke;32249899]You can fit a lot of stuff on such a small pcb. An arduino clone, a simple power supply, you name it.[/QUOTE]
You've gotta be joking, firstly 44 euro is fucking expensive you can easily get much cheaper and bigger boards from china, secondly who the hell needs 100 boards.
You don't seem to understand how small 1x1cm is, you would never be able fit an arduino clone or anything of real use on it.
If you want a PCB the only real option is to do it yourself unless you happen to be rich or are doing a large batch.
[QUOTE=Chryseus;32250452]You've gotta be joking, firstly 44 euro is fucking expensive you can easily get much cheaper and bigger boards from china, secondly who the hell needs 100 boards.
You don't seem to understand how small 1x1cm is, you would never be able fit an arduino clone or anything of real use on it.
If you want a PCB the only real option is to do it yourself unless you happen to be rich or are doing a large batch.[/QUOTE]
There's always batchpcb.
[QUOTE=DrLuke;32249899]You can fit a lot of stuff on such a small pcb. An arduino clone, a simple power supply, you name it.[/QUOTE]
I dunno, the smallest Arduino clone is still 20.7x15.2mm. You might be able to do nothing but break out the pins on a 1x1cm board, but that's not overly useful. [The picture is a link, click it!]
[url=http://www.varesano.net/projects/hardware/Femtoduino][img]http://www.varesano.net/files/imagecache/500width/Image426.jpg[/img][/url]
[QUOTE=Lapsus;32260421]I dunno, the smallest Arduino clone is still 20.7x15.2mm. You might be able to do nothing but break out the pins on a 1x1cm board, but that's not overly useful. [The picture is a link, click it!]
[url=http://www.varesano.net/projects/hardware/Femtoduino][img]http://www.varesano.net/files/imagecache/500width/Image426.jpg[/img][/url][/QUOTE]
It'd be like a fucking contact lens at that point.
"OH FUCK! Nobody move! I dropped my 'duino!"
I'd just gotten a ethernet shield for my birthday and I just remembered I only had only ethernet cord to my room. Dangit. I'll have to figure something out.
[QUOTE=Zero-Point;32263764]It'd be like a fucking contact lens at that point.
"OH FUCK! Nobody move! I dropped my 'duino!"[/QUOTE]
Perfect for a UAV, or anything else where size is a concern though.
[QUOTE=FoohyAB;32263898]I'd just gotten a ethernet shield for my birthday and I just remembered I only had only ethernet cord to my room. Dangit. I'll have to figure something out.[/QUOTE]
If you want to put it anywhere you wan then buys cheap router on eBay and find a way to set up bridging that's how I do my projects wirelessly.
[QUOTE=Zero-Point;32263764]It'd be like a fucking contact lens at that point.
"OH FUCK! Nobody move! I dropped my 'duino!"[/QUOTE]
You're calling it a Duino because you couldn't get all of the letters on, [i]right[/i]?
[img]http://i53.tinypic.com/1pxauc.png[/img]
I decided to continue with the creation of my own psu! Today I added the switches you can see.
The top row are On-Off-On switches for selecting power output and which voltage to display on the voltmeter, and the bottom row is an On-On switch for selecting input polarity (a protective diode is of course included)
[QUOTE=DrLuke;32269004][img]http://i53.tinypic.com/1pxauc.png[/img]
I decided to continue with the creation of my own psu! Today I added the switches you can see.
The top row are On-Off-On switches for selecting power output and which voltage to display on the voltmeter, and the bottom row is an On-On switch for selecting input polarity (a protective diode is of course included)[/QUOTE]
Why not just build a diode bridge instead of using a switch to select polarity?
[QUOTE=Xera;32269604]Why not just build a diode bridge instead of using a switch to select polarity?[/QUOTE]
Less voltage drop, also it's a good reason to add another switch (did I already mention that they're aweome?)
I'm going to make a wireless power prototype sorta like this.
[img]http://4hv.org/e107_files/public/1249943418_89_FT0_p1010049_large.jpg[/img]
I was wondering whats the difference between using a sine wave for this and a square wave?
I would really want to use a square wave because how easy it is to make , but maybe sine wave is more efficient?
Hotlinking that image is not allowed.
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