[QUOTE=ryan1271;30321194]I suppose you could stick a transformer in every electrical box... But after all that work is it really worth it?[/QUOTE]
Not really no, I could just stop being a lazy bastard.
[QUOTE=samwilki;30314362]How long would a 9V battery last?[/QUOTE]
PP3 batteries are just 6xAAAA batteries. Typical alkaline AAAA batteries are about 600mAh.
[QUOTE=Xera;30326719]PP3 batteries are just 6xAAAA batteries. Typical alkaline AAAA batteries are about 600mAh.[/QUOTE]
Not always.
[img]http://i.cubeupload.com/4Y4bIi.jpg[/img]
Ok, it depends what type you buy. The most common ones (Alkaline) are 6 AAAA batteries.
[QUOTE=Xera;30327420]Ok, it depends what type you buy. The most common ones (Alkaline) are 6 AAAA batteries.[/QUOTE]
The one on the left is an alkaline, it purely depends on the brand if you get one solid battery or the AAAA cells.
But to be honest 9V batteries are pretty poor when it comes to energy density and should be avoided, if you need the voltage a few AA or AAA batteries and a small charge pump circuit will do the job much better.
More symbols done:
[img]http://i.cubeupload.com/qqPbRL.png[/img]
Hey guys!
I finally got my oscilloscope! It's a C1-94 manufactured 1987 in the UdSSR. I got it for free from a generous man living near my place.
It's a pretty old 1 channel scope with around 10 MHz, but it's probably all I'll ever need for analysing signals.
Here are some pictures:
A pwm signal generated by an arduino:
[quote]
[img_thumb]http://dl.dropbox.com/u/28079852/DSC04598.JPG[/img_thumb]
[/quote]
When I touch the probe with my hand:
[quote]
[img_thumb]http://dl.dropbox.com/u/28079852/DSC04606.JPG[/img_thumb]
[/quote]
Made in the UdSSR:
[quote]
[img_thumb]http://dl.dropbox.com/u/28079852/DSC04599.JPG[/img_thumb]
[/quote]
Now it's time to get some bitches
[QUOTE=DrLuke;30348958]Hey guys!
I finally got my oscilloscope! It's a C1-94 manufactured 1987 in the UdSSR. I got it for free from a generous man living near my place.
It's a pretty old 1 channel scope with around 10 MHz, but it's probably all I'll ever need for analysing signals.
Here are some pictures:
A pwm signal generated by an arduino:
When I touch the probe with my hand:
Made in the UdSSR:
Now it's time to get some bitches[/QUOTE]
Bitches love oscilloscopes :). I have one 20mhz but it's a bit de-tuned or something, but it's still useful :)
[QUOTE=DrLuke;30348958]Hey guys!
I finally got my oscilloscope! It's a C1-94 manufactured 1987 in the UdSSR. I got it for free from a generous man living near my place.
It's a pretty old 1 channel scope with around 10 MHz, but it's probably all I'll ever need for analysing signals.
Here are some pictures:
A pwm signal generated by an arduino:
When I touch the probe with my hand:
Made in the UdSSR:
Now it's time to get some bitches[/QUOTE]
Looks like it's a hell of alot more portable than my old 'scope, that thing weighs at least 50 lbs thanks to its aluminum frame and steel panels.
Alright, our tv started acting up a few weeks ago and I took it apart today...
Looking at the switch mode board...
[url=http://i.imgur.com/5pb1J.jpg][img]http://i.cubeupload.com/Zitegg.jpg[/img][/url]
All capacitors with a red mark on them look bulged or have leaked, going to check them later on.
[img]http://i.cubeupload.com/L7iHTK.png[/img]
A small selection of my latest symbols, in total 88 symbols but I still have
plenty more to do.
I will also be doing requests soon, if you would like a custom symbol for an IC just give me a link
to the datasheet.
[b]Moar[/b]
[img]http://i.cubeupload.com/EqKSpm.png[/img]
Just checked the output of the power supply with and without load. Without load it works perfectly fine and with a load the voltage drops down quite fast. When the TV itself is connected the voltage on the 12v or 5v lines drops down to about 2v. Time to order some parts :dance:.
Pretty much sounds like broken caps.
[QUOTE=DrLuke2;30393204]Pretty much sounds like broken caps.[/QUOTE]
That's why I have ordered some new caps.
Guys, I have a question.
Background:
I want to control a 24V bipolar 4-wire stepper motor, so I drew a circuit with a bunch of transistors, positive power line and negative power line. There are 10 PNP and 2 NPN transistors so the MCU only needs two wires: Ain (0/5V) and Bin (0/5V) which in turn control the four wires: A (0V/24V), B (0V/24V), !A(0V/-24V), !B(0V/-24V).
Question:
Will bad things happen if I connect my MCU to Ain and Bin? Do I need any resistors, and if so, why/where/how resistive? Is using 12 transistors a sign of dumb?
PS: Is Electronics more of a "practice makes perfect" or "measure trice, cut once"? I wonder if I'll end up getting electrocuted....
[QUOTE=Nikita;30406349]Guys, I have a question.
Background:
I want to control a 24V bipolar 4-wire stepper motor, so I drew a circuit with a bunch of transistors, positive power line and negative power line. There are 10 PNP and 2 NPN transistors so the MCU only needs two wires: Ain (0/5V) and Bin (0/5V) which in turn control the four wires: A (0V/24V), B (0V/24V), !A(0V/-24V), !B(0V/-24V).
Question:
Will bad things happen if I connect my MCU to Ain and Bin? Do I need any resistors, and if so, why/where/how resistive? Is using 12 transistors a sign of dumb?
PS: Is Electronics more of a "practice makes perfect" or "measure trice, cut once"? I wonder if I'll end up getting electrocuted....[/QUOTE]
Electronics is all about experimenting, even if you happen to blow something up (I have myself several times).
As for your circuit I'll need to see the schematic, I am interested in seeing what you've done with them 10 PNP transistors.
Electronics is like magic:
[img]http://l.yimg.com/eb/ymv/us/img/hv/photo/movie_pix/warner_brothers/harry_potter_and_the_sorcerer_s_stone/_group_photos/daniel_radcliffe8.jpg[/img]
Here is the schematic for what I'm trying to do.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/7Jb3c.png[/img]
I'm pretty noob at polarity right now... Normal transistors indicate those that let current through when there is +5v, and circled ones are those that let it through at 0v and stop it at 5v or more.
PS: I just made a working rectifier/voltage doubler without knowing which end of a diode is which :D I feel awesome and derp at the same time.
I'm not even sure that circuit will work, also your schematic is useless, you did not mark the emitter leads.
Also [url]http://opencircuitdesign.com/xcircuit/goodschem/goodschem.html[/url]
So I'm pretty sure my computer PSU is acting up because of a blown cap. I checked and the 3.3v rail is <2V, opened it up and I can see one cap (2200uF 6.3v) that looks to have a bulging top. Could a single cap cause this? When in the machine the motherboard will turn on and off repeatedly when the power button is pressed. Tested it with another PSU and it works fine. Just wondering if it's worth trying to repair this or if it could be something else causing the problem.
[QUOTE=Xera;30408092]So I'm pretty sure my computer PSU is acting up because of a blown cap. I checked and the 3.3v rail is <2V, opened it up and I can see one cap (2200uF 6.3v) that looks to have a bulging top. Could a single cap cause this? When in the machine the motherboard will turn on and off repeatedly when the power button is pressed. Tested it with another PSU and it works fine. Just wondering if it's worth trying to repair this or if it could be something else causing the problem.[/QUOTE]
Yes it is most likely the cap, another way to test is switching the PSU on when not connected to the mobo (short power-on to ground), the 3.3V should then be close to normal.
[QUOTE=Xera;30408092]So I'm pretty sure my computer PSU is acting up because of a blown cap. I checked and the 3.3v rail is <2V, opened it up and I can see one cap (2200uF 6.3v) that looks to have a bulging top. Could a single cap cause this? When in the machine the motherboard will turn on and off repeatedly when the power button is pressed. Tested it with another PSU and it works fine. Just wondering if it's worth trying to repair this or if it could be something else causing the problem.[/QUOTE]
Sounds like you have overloaded your PSU to me.
[QUOTE=benjojo;30408149]Sounds like you have overloaded your PSU to me.[/QUOTE]
Caps can and usually do fail through normal use, of course more heat also reduces their
life span somewhat.
[QUOTE=Chryseus;30407964]I'm not even sure that circuit will work, also your schematic is useless, you did not mark the emitter leads.
Also [url]http://opencircuitdesign.com/xcircuit/goodschem/goodschem.html[/url][/QUOTE]
Umm, the emitter is where electrons leave the transistor, and collector is where they enter it, right? For both PNP and NPN?
speaking of circuit designers what was that program where you could drag components around and draw the wires and stuff? it was really nice and professional to use
[QUOTE=PyromanDan;30408952]speaking of circuit designers what was that program where you could drag components around and draw the wires and stuff? it was really nice and professional to use[/QUOTE]
Eagle CAD?
[QUOTE=PyromanDan;30408952]speaking of circuit designers what was that program where you could drag components around and draw the wires and stuff? it was really nice and professional to use[/QUOTE]
I'm pretty sure you're searching for [url]http://fritzing.org/[/url]
[QUOTE=DrLuke;30409074]Eagle CAD?[/QUOTE]
not quite, Ill look at it though
[QUOTE=AGMadsAG;30409104]I'm pretty sure you're searching for [url]http://fritzing.org/[/url][/QUOTE]
bingo. thanks
Eagle CAD is pretty advanced and is usually used by people in the undustry.
[QUOTE=Nikita;30408668]Umm, the emitter is where electrons leave the transistor, and collector is where they enter it, right? For both PNP and NPN?[/QUOTE]
Electrons flow from negative to positive, current (conventionally) flows from positive to negative.
In NPN transistors current normally flows from collector to emitter, with the base being positive WRT emitter, with
PNP transistors current flows from the emitter to collector with the base being negative WRT collector.
Have a look at [url=http://www.falstad.com/circuit/#%24+1+5.0E-6+10.20027730826997+45+5.0+50%0At+240+144+272+144+0+1+-4.215442223939027+0.7845577760609729+100.0%0Ag+272+192+272+224+0%0AR+272+128+272+96+0+0+40.0+5.0+0.0+0.0+0.5%0Av+176+176+176+144+0+0+40.0+5.0+0.0+0.0+0.5%0Aw+272+192+176+192+0%0Aw+176+192+176+176+0%0Aw+272+192+272+160+0%0Ar+240+144+176+144+0+100.0%0Ar+416+144+352+144+0+100.0%0Aw+448+192+448+160+0%0Aw+352+160+352+144+0%0AR+448+128+448+96+0+0+40.0+5.0+0.0+0.0+0.5%0Ag+448+192+448+224+0%0At+416+144+448+144+0+-1+4.195942028932162+-0.8040579710678379+100.0%0Av+352+160+352+192+0+0+40.0+5.0+0.0+0.0+0.5%0Aw+352+192+448+192+0%0At+336+384+368+384+1+-1+4.195942028932162+-0.8040579710678379+100.0%0AR+368+400+368+432+0+0+40.0+5.0+0.0+0.0+0.5%0Ar+336+384+272+384+0+100.0%0Av+272+368+272+336+0+0+40.0+5.0+0.0+0.0+0.5%0Aw+272+384+272+368+0%0Aw+368+368+368+336+0%0Aw+368+336+272+336+0%0Ag+368+336+368+304+0%0Ax+168+270+280+274+0+14+NPN+Current+Flow%0Ax+266+467+378+471+0+14+PNP+Current+Flow%0Ax+354+276+521+280+0+14+PNP+Inverted+Current+Flow%0A]this.[/url]
A simple method to remember the correct arrow direction on the BJT transistor symbol is to remember NPN = 'Not Pointing In'.
[QUOTE=Chryseus;30408139]Yes it is most likely the cap, another way to test is switching the PSU on when not connected to the mobo (short power-on to ground), the 3.3V should then be close to normal.[/QUOTE]
I measured the voltages outside of the system, using a PSU tester and a multimeter. The only other way to test it would be to use software, which I can't do as the system doesn't POST with this PSU. I've ordered a new PSU as I need it soon, but I'll pick up a replacement cap from work tomorrow and try fixing it myself.
[QUOTE=benjojo;30408149]Sounds like you have overloaded your PSU to me.[/QUOTE]
I doubt it, it's been running fine for three and a half years. 650W running a stock i7 930 and a 5850, 3 HDDs.
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