Everyone suggests something else. I suggested him the one I have, because it's pretty good for it's price.
[QUOTE=DrLuke;35243351]Everyone suggests something else. I suggested him the one I have, because it's pretty good for it's price.[/QUOTE]
And didn't catch fire after being left on for a week.
I think that was partially my fault, as I was doing my jacobs ladder thing pretty close to it. Maybe some RF emitting from that killed it.
[editline]22nd March 2012[/editline]
Look what was in the mail today
[t]http://i52.tinypic.com/33xinwh.png[/t]
[t]http://i52.tinypic.com/rws7qr.png[/t]
I see sparkfun goodies! My tayda package finally arrived, I was stalking the mailbox most of the day like a lioness watching a lone gazelle drinking from a lake.
Everyone loves parts pics!
[t]http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad84/tw34kpics/IMAG0402.jpg?t=1332456851[/t]
Oh god the Bus Pirate is so fucking awesome I'd have sex with it if it was a woman or even a man
[img]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-MGDp71oSLoU/T2y_BcIMWNI/AAAAAAAAAz4/i2KR_gdkHWA/s801/pcb1.jpg[/img]
5V PSU based around the MAX6350 precision 5V voltage reference.
I managed to do the layout in under 15 minutes and using only 3 jumpers, I'm pretty pleased.
The attempt at making the board did not go quite as well, I made my developer way too strong so it washed it all off, oh well 3rd time lucky I hope.
What store do you guys prefer to shop at in the US?
I'm looking at either SparkFun or Adafruit.
[QUOTE=Doritos_Man;35264227]What store do you guys prefer to shop at in the US?
I'm looking at either SparkFun or Adafruit.[/QUOTE]
Both are well known but horribly overpriced, I would go with Farnell / Mouser / Digikey / Ebay for any semi-decent order.
[QUOTE=ddrl46;35264464]Both are well known but horribly overpriced, I would go with Farnell / Mouser / Digikey / Ebay for any semi-decent order.[/QUOTE]
I'm going to be getting a Arduino UNO R3 but what should I get with it?
Breadboard, Jumper Wires, LEDs, Resistors and what else?
[QUOTE=Doritos_Man;35264679]I'm going to be getting a Arduino UNO R3 but what should I get with it?
Breadboard, Jumper Wires, LEDs, Resistors and what else?[/QUOTE]
Capacitors, electrolytic mostly but get a few lower value ceramic (I.E 100p, 1n, 10n, etc)
Transistors, get some general purpose NPN and PNP Bipolar Junction Transistors and a few MOSFETs
A few op-amps for general purpose use.
A few 555 timers since these come in handy in a number of projects.
DIP Switches
Rectifier and signal diodes (I.E 1N4007 and 1N4148)
Some 7400 and / or 4000 series logic, I.E inverters, logic gates, counters, shift registers, etc.
Potentiometers, get the cheap multiple turn cement ones and plenty of them.
Any fun sensors you like such as LDRs, thermistors, hall effect, electret microphone, etc.
This should cover a wide range of projects.
Soldering my GPS module went better than those LCDs with my new soldering iron, but it's still a little wonky.
[img]http://puu.sh/mbns[/img]
Unfortunately it doesn't respond at all yet at the moment. I held a cable against Vbackup for testing, but that made no difference.
I was told that all soldering should look like Vcc, but it's almost impossible to get to a good position with the soldering iron for the center pins. I basically just let the solder slide down from the pins on the PCB...
Maybe I'm just the type of person that should stick to higher level electronics and just use shields with easy to connect cables.
Tin your pad and wire then bring the two together apply heat and a dab of solder to get some fresh flux on the joint, remove heat and hold still untill the solder solidifies. Maybe find and old pcb and practice removing and re-installing components on it till you feel more comfortable. What heat/solder are you normally working with?
[QUOTE=Tw34k;35276231]Tin your pad and wire then bring the two together apply heat and a dab of solder to get some fresh flux on the joint, remove heat and hold still untill the solder solidifies. Maybe find and old pcb and practice removing and re-installing components on it till you feel more comfortable. What heat/solder are you normally working with?[/QUOTE]
S-Pb60Sn40 at 330 degrees Celsius and I didn't tin the pad at all, because I simply couldn't reach it. These pads are so small that the pins pretty much completely occupied them.
Some exclusive footage of the battlefield:
[t]http://puu.sh/mbQr[/t]
Or how I bought a 20 euro GPS module that I can't get to work.
Use smaller wire.
[QUOTE=Chryseus;35277132]Use smaller wire.[/QUOTE]
Yeah, something like RJ-45/Cat-5 maybe.
Finally repaired my father's Philips N4510 tape player/recorder, the belts were all rotten away and left a horrible black residue inside of the thing which was a bitch to clean out.
[IMG_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/VggxP.jpg[/IMG_thumb]
[img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/aPs7N.jpg[/img_thumb]
[img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/5cP7w.jpg[/img_thumb]
Also, 330C is a tad hot if you're using 60/40 solder. It melts at ~200C. I usually keep my iron around 260C.
Retro equipment repair is the best kind of repair.
Yeah 330 is way too hot, you can see all the flux has gone black.
Or you was heating it for too long, don't stand around get the solder on right away.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/t97CN.jpg[/t]
Having problems getting the developing process right at the moment, it keeps eating my traces.
never fucking mind, fucking semicolon ( ; ) took 2 hours of my life
[editline]24th March 2012[/editline]
fuck
[QUOTE=ROBO_DONUT;35278613]Also, 330C is a tad hot if you're using 60/40 solder. It melts at ~200C. I usually keep my iron around 260C.[/QUOTE]
I use 400C with lead-free silver solder. I find that if I use a lower temperature, the heat doesn't transfer fast enough.
[QUOTE=yngndrw;35279880]I use 400C with lead-free silver solder. I find that if I use a lower temperature, the heat doesn't transfer fast enough.[/QUOTE]
>lead-free< silver solder
I have this fm transmitter:
[t]http://i.imgur.com/Vo1wN.jpg[/t]
so I know I have to make the antenna bigger, but how do I also jack up the power?
Anyone got any ideas on what can be done with a Newvicon tube (black and white image sensor) or a Saticon tube (color image sensor)?
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/100_2655.jpg[/IMG]
Where do you even get all that crap from?!
Also make an analog camera or something and display the image on that tiny crt tube
He has a huge collection of vintage computer stuff and whatnot.
I picked it up from my local "dealer" who offers me their junk for a good price. $7 got me those two tubes and a full Panasonic camera.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/100_2642.jpg[/IMG]
Camera is total TTL discrete logic but I can't get it to display an image. Waveform monitor is also saying something is wrong but I was never really good at troubleshooting cameras.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/newvi.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/newvi2.jpg[/IMG]
Gives me a lot of parts though so at least I can try and make something from it. Just don't know what.
Hey I've decided to get into electronics a bit.
I currently have no knowledge of anything, but I'm wondering what should I buy in order to get a start?
'Electronics' is very general. What, specifically, are you interested in?
building circuits
[editline]27th March 2012[/editline]
Ultimately what inspired me was my longing to build a nixie tube clock.
I'd start by getting an Arduino and some LEDs. Build a simple LED binary clock optionally w/ a precision RTC (Maxim makes a few, I think?). Of course, you'll probably want the usual assortment of resistors, capacitors and diodes.
Move onto building a high-voltage supply (boost converter) with a 555.
I'm pretty sure you can still buy the old BCD nixie tube driver ICs online. Not sure how much they cost or where to get them, but it's probably easier than building your own driver. Once you've gotten comfortable with your Arduino and RTC, built the HV supply, and acquired the driver ICs and tubes, it shouldn't be too terribly difficult to put it all together.
It's going to be a long (maybe expensive?) process though, since you're going to be learning along the way. When you order parts, make sure you get through-hole (DIP or axial/radial) lead packages. TO-92, TO-220, DIP/PDIP are all things to look for. Avoid anything weird like TQFP or BGA, since you won't have the equipment to work with that stuff just yet. Get a breadboard, plenty of wire (~24 AWG), a good iron, fine 60/40 rosin-core solder, copper scrubbies, and a good multimeter.
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