[QUOTE=Tw34k;35412523]Most people will disagree but I love disposable 15-30 dollar multimeters.
The first one I remember owning was given to me by my father and was craftsman brand. It was lost due to me checking voltage on a charged capacitor bank on the wrong mode (continuity IIRC)
Anyhow the moral of my story is cheap meters are great for beginners so you don't cry when you break one. Also when you buy cheaper meters you can afford more than one which is very handy when you need to do things like measure input and output or voltage and current simultaneously.[/QUOTE]
I'd just like to add that more expensive multimeters usually have protection so they don't break if you use them on the wrong mode. I agree though, beginners shouldn't spend hundreds of dollars on multimeters. One of the most valuable things I learned from DIYing is to buy tools and parts as you need them, not as you think you need them or you'll be out of money in no time.
[QUOTE=Mr.T;35403618][media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=moROeo5OOGE[/media]
Just something very basic I made with my Arduino.[/QUOTE]
Is that supposed to be the foundation of your [url=http://facepunch.com/threads/1092231]Oparta Energy Thorium Fusion Reactor[/url]?
[QUOTE=VistaPOWA;35413235]Is that supposed to be the foundation of your [url=http://facepunch.com/threads/1092231]Oparta Energy Thorium Fusion Reactor[/url]?[/QUOTE]
It's not funny anymore. Yes it was stupid of me to even think about something like that and bringing it up a few times is funny but now it's gone too far. Almost every post I make you comment about that thread. To be honest I think you are just trying to horde funny ratings while making a fool out of me. Cut it out already.
[QUOTE=supervoltage;35411992]I wish it would be that easy. The big problem with that is my father - he, for some reason, doesn't want me to get a bank account and he keeps telling me I'm neck-deep with all this radio shit (AKA he doesn't like what I do). So, yeah, impossible for now.[/QUOTE]
No offense, but your dad sounds like a grade-a douchekazoo.
Seriously, I'm tempted to just buy the damn chip FOR you and ship it direct to your house so I could say in a way "Fuck you for thinking it's stupid for your kid to broaden their horizons".
So I bought all the parts for my programmer save for two and they are going to be the bitch.
The reason is simple:
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/dammit.gif[/IMG]
Single configurations, multiple jumpers. I can go at this three ways.
1-Assload of toggle switches
2-Rotary knobs that set the mode depending on position
3-Transistors and Magic.
I don't want to do 1 because it means I have to make an additional chart that decodes the jumper settings in the manual to how the switches are set. I know pretty much nothing about transistors as well. I looked into the rotary knobs which sounded like they would work best but holy shit the prices skyrocket when you start stacking.
Any ideas?
[QUOTE=Mr.T;35411367]I don't have a multi-meter so I can't measure it. Any recommendations on a good one?[/QUOTE]
Like what Chryseus said, anything with AC/DC Voltage/Current, Resistance Range of 20-20M, Diode Test, would start you off. You'd probably be able to get one with those features for about $20-30(For a good quality one, I have an old Ideal multimeter and it's served me well: [URL="Ideal Test-Pro 360(Discont.)"]http://www.idealindustries.com/prodDetail.do?prodId=61-360[/URL])
Now, you should get one that can read capacitance sometime down the road(Especially if you wanna do RF or specific Audio work). And Transistor HFE would come in handy, temperature would be nice too. These are around the ranges of $50-$80
If you're interested in those ones that can connect to the computer then don't expect it to be realtime(Unless its a Fluke :v:), those are for low frequency or DC work, not replacements for true O-scopes.
And hey bro, if you've had interest in nuclear engineering, I'd recommend looking at this video. This IMO is the future of nuclear power before we get Fusion:
[URL="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uK367T7h6ZY"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uK367T7h6ZY[/URL]
Close friend of mine is planning to major in nuclear engineering, and he's been obsessed with this video. Luck to your future endeavours!
WEEE MY DEALEXTREME PACKAGE JUST ARRIVED!
It only took about a month and a half.
Anyways,
[img_thumb]http://dl.dropbox.com/u/59112523/EEP%20thread/080.JPG[/img_thumb]
[img_thumb]http://dl.dropbox.com/u/59112523/EEP%20thread/082.JPG[/img_thumb]
Yep, one hundred white LED's.
This was sort of a test order because despite hearing good things I didn't quite trust Dealextreme and it felt good to just order something small first and not have to sit and worry if that $100 order is gonna arrive or not.
Some of this is gonna light up some shelves on my workbench, some of it is gonna become an LED cube.
[QUOTE=Zero-Point;35416045]No offense, but your dad sounds like a grade-a douchekazoo.
Seriously, I'm tempted to just buy the damn chip FOR you and ship it direct to your house so I could say in a way "Fuck you for thinking it's stupid for your kid to broaden their horizons".[/QUOTE]
Holy crap, I didn't expect anyone to even think of that!
Anyways, I am doing this radio thing out of a small reason. Some kids at school think it's funny to force people around them to listen to a music genre the people hate. So, I decided to make a radio controlled speaker.
Hook the transmitter to my MP4 and place the speaker somewhere hidden near them. I suppose they won't like heavy metal or dubstep that much :p
[QUOTE=supervoltage;35428654]Holy crap, I didn't expect anyone to even think of that!
Anyways, I am doing this radio thing out of a small reason. Some kids at school think it's funny to force people around them to listen to a music genre the people hate. So, I decided to make a radio controlled speaker.
Hook the transmitter to my MP4 and place the speaker somewhere hidden near them. I suppose they won't like heavy metal or dubstep that much :p[/QUOTE]
So you were going to utilize something that I bought for you out of the goodness of my heart merely for cheeky shenanigans against a bunch of punks?
Address pl0x.
Ok guys I have an old PS/2 keyboard open and everything. I have the board that connects all the traces on to the one board, then sends it out the PS/2 cable. How can I test the circuit to make sure everything still works. Also, it is a model: RT7D20 Dell keyboard. I should find a multimeter...
[QUOTE=Zero-Point;35437991]So you were going to utilize something that I bought for you out of the goodness of my heart merely for cheeky shenanigans against a bunch of punks?
Address pl0x.[/QUOTE]
Are you serious?
The continuity test mode and the diode test mode should come in handy for that.
[QUOTE=DrLuke;35440520]The continuity test mode and the diode test mode should come in handy for that.[/QUOTE]
Sorry, was this an answer to my post?
[QUOTE=toaster468;35440532]Sorry, was this an answer to my post?[/QUOTE]
Yes, supervoltage ninja'd me...
Also you'll find those modes on even the shittiest multimeters
[QUOTE=DrLuke;35440605]Yes, supervoltage ninja'd me...
Also you'll find those modes on even the shittiest multimeters[/QUOTE]
Also, are these things safe to handle without like static protection, or something. I'm new to this.
[editline]5th April 2012[/editline]
I have a multimeter.
EDIT:
And I am guessing the setting on the multimeter that looks like a diode is the setting you are talking about?
->|-
yeah, just touch something grounded like a radiator or the kitchen sink, and then you're safe
[QUOTE=toaster468;35440489]Ok guys I have an old PS/2 keyboard open and everything. I have the board that connects all the traces on to the one board, then sends it out the PS/2 cable. How can I test the circuit to make sure everything still works. Also, it is a model: RT7D20 Dell keyboard. I should find a multimeter...[/QUOTE]
Shazzamm:
[URL="http://www.777simulator.com/dnn/TechnicalInformation/KeyboardHacking/tabid/59/Default.aspx"] http://www.777simulator.com/dnn/TechnicalInformation/KeyboardHacking/tabid/59/Default.aspx[/URL]
[URL]http://www.computer-engineering.org/ps2protocol/[/URL]
[B]EDIT:[/B]
I think I gave you too much :v:
DealExtreme is awesome, I ordered a Rigol DS1052E for £230~ and it arrived in perfect condition.
Ooops did not notice page 14.
[QUOTE=supervoltage;35440519]Are you serious?[/QUOTE]
Yeah sure, why not.
[QUOTE=DrLuke;35440736]yeah, just touch something grounded like a radiator or the kitchen sink, and then you're safe[/QUOTE]
2 questions. How many volts does this take? And, I thought this worked by checking if the circuit is open, right? It looks like the plunger things inhibit the current. So in that case, do I need to solder all the connections and toggle the current on which button I would like to press?
You can also get free samples from places like Maxim or Ti, you can't get everything but there is still some pretty nice ICs to be had, even some fairly expensive ones.
[quote]2 questions. How many volts does this take? And, I thought this worked by checking if the circuit is open, right? It looks like the plunger things inhibit the current. So in that case, do I need to solder all the connections and toggle the current on which button I would like to press?[/quote]
The diode test mode simply calculates the voltage drop you get with diodes, LEDs and transistors, it provides a quick way to verify said component is not shorted or open circuit, this usually works with most things with a voltage drop upto 3V, some of the cheaper meters however only provide 1.5-2V which is not enough for certain LEDs.
Continuity simply beeps on low resistance.
The easiest way to check if a switch is working is to put it on continuity and place the probes across the switch contacts, if the switch contact is normally open it will beep when pressed, if it's normally closed it will stop beeping when pressed.
[QUOTE=Chryseus;35443947]You can also get free samples from places like Maxim or Ti, you can't get everything but there is still some pretty nice ICs to be had, even some fairly expensive ones.
The diode test mode simply calculates the voltage drop you get with diodes, LEDs and transistors, it provides a quick way to verify said component is not shorted or open circuit, this usually works with most things with a voltage drop upto 3V, some of the cheaper meters however only provide 1.5-2V which is not enough for certain LEDs.
Continuity simply beeps on low resistance.
The easiest way to check if a switch is working is to put it on continuity and place the probes across the switch contacts, if the switch contact is normally open it will beep when pressed, if it's normally closed it will stop beeping when pressed.[/QUOTE]
Alternatively if you want to make sure a switch is worth using, measure across the terminals with Ohms. It should be as close to 0 as possible when closed, anything higher than 2-5 Ohms and you have a dirty-ass switch. If it stays closed/opened no matter what then obviously it's a bad switch.
Ok, I am making some progress. I am using the diode setting on my multimeter and I am hunched over this 4in piece of damned pcb testing each connection for the one I want.
[editline]5th April 2012[/editline]
Done. Finally. I even wrote up a little table to use later.
So I'm kind of new to this, can someone help me identify these components. I salvaged them from an old phone.
[img_thumb] http://filesmelt.com/dl/IMG_20120407_175300.jpg[/img_thumb]
[QUOTE=SteelReal;35473470]So I'm kind of new to this, can someone help me identify these components. I salvaged them from an old phone.
[img] http://filesmelt.com/dl/IMG_20120407_175300.jpg[/img][/QUOTE]
The three components on the right are crystal oscillators for 16.663 MHz, 16.656 MHz and 47.475 MHz.
[QUOTE=ddrl46;35473483]The three components on the right are crystal oscillators for 16.656 MHz and 47.475 MHz.[/QUOTE]
Thanks, do you have any guess as to what the black thing is?
[QUOTE=SteelReal;35473545]Thanks, do you have any guess as to what the black thing is?[/QUOTE]
How many pins does it have?
[QUOTE=ddrl46;35473571]How many pins does it have?[/QUOTE]
5
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