[QUOTE=Val67;34528826][URL="http://about.maxwell.com/microelectronics/products/ned/index.asp"]I hope they make an Arduino shield out of those[/URL] :smile:[/QUOTE]
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HTTP Error 404. The requested resource is not found.
And whatever it is, hook it up yourself. You don't learn anything from using other people their "shields".
[QUOTE=ddrl46;34530357]Not Found
HTTP Error 404. The requested resource is not found.
And whatever it is, hook it up yourself. You don't learn anything from using other people their "shields".[/QUOTE]
Looks like the site crashed :(
It was a "Nuclear Event Detection Device", which tells you about the incoming radiation
[URL="http://www.extremetech.com/computing/102633-how-to-make-sure-your-computer-and-the-internet-survives-a-nuclear-holocaust"]Here's a new link[/URL]
[editline]3rd February 2012[/editline]
[URL="http://www.maxwell.com/products/microelectronics/product.aspx?pid=SPACE-NUCLEAR-EVENT"]Manufacturer link[/URL]
[QUOTE=Val67;34530445]Looks like the site crashed :(
It was a "Nuclear Event Detection Device", which tells you about the incoming radiation
[URL="http://www.extremetech.com/computing/102633-how-to-make-sure-your-computer-and-the-internet-survives-a-nuclear-holocaust"]Here's a new link[/URL]
[editline]3rd February 2012[/editline]
[URL="http://www.maxwell.com/products/microelectronics/product.aspx?pid=SPACE-NUCLEAR-EVENT"]Manufacturer link[/URL][/QUOTE]
That's just a switch, shutting off when a huge amount of ionizing radiation goes through it (like, after a nuclear explosion). $150 for a piece, not re-usable.
That is no Geiger-Müller tube or Geiger-counter, it's a countermeasure against EMP.
[editline]3rd February 2012[/editline]
Why in hell would ANYONE make an Arduino shield out of that?
[editline]3rd February 2012[/editline]
[QUOTE=Val67;34530445][B]which tells you about the incoming radiation[/B][/QUOTE]
Also, I think everyone would know in an instant if a nuclear bomb exploded somewhere.
[QUOTE=VistaPOWA;34530963]
Also, I think everyone would know in an instant if a nuclear bomb exploded somewhere.[/QUOTE]
The point is to immediately cut the power to EMP-sensitive equipment before the EM-Pulse arrives at the equipment and destroys it. This is not meant to warn humans, although it can also be used for that.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I though you also had to shield something to protect it from an EMP.
Also if a bomb did go off, I doubt you'd want to be sitting around playing with your still functioning equipment.
[QUOTE=Chryseus;34531682]Correct me if I'm wrong but I though you also had to shield something to protect it from an EMP.
Also if a bomb did go off, I doubt you'd want to be sitting around playing with your still functioning equipment.[/QUOTE]
I guess it's to disconnect devices from the power grid, as there could be a potentially destructive impulse coming through it.
Also, if a nuke explodes in low earth orbit, you'd create an EMP pulse that would affect big parts of the USA (yes, a single nuke), thus you wouldn't get any radioactive fallout or direct blastwave damage, but all electronic equipment would be of course destroyed if it's not shielded.
[QUOTE=Chryseus;34531682]Correct me if I'm wrong but I though you also had to shield something to protect it from an EMP.
Also if a bomb did go off, I doubt you'd want to be sitting around playing with your still functioning equipment.[/QUOTE]
My guess is it's to protect from the secondary effects. You'd still need to shield the thing to protect it from the initial surge of EM radiation, but my guess is that there will be a short delay before you get the full effect from long transmission/signal lines, since electrons in metal conductors don't propagate as fast as EM waves in free space.
So, such a device would probably be mounted outside the shielded area, get triggered upon the initial EMP, and cut the connections to any transmission/power lines before any electrical surges hit. Transmission lines, I think, are the real problem because they cover so much physical area. Small circuits which aren't interconnected might be able to survive the initial effects.
That's just my guess, though.
According to Wikipedia the voltage from a nuclear detonation at an altitude of 400km will range from 25 to 50 kV per square meter over a very large area depending on bomb yield, altitude and your distance from detonation (your actually safer in terms of EMP closer to the detonation).
Assuming an area of 1sq cm this results in an induced voltage between 250 and 500V, more than enough to damage any sensitive electronics, so in order to completely protect something besides isolating it from the power line you'd also need to fully shield the device and provide full isolation (I.E optical) for any externally connected devices.
It's quite amazing at how much energy is produced in a nuclear explosion.
Wouldn't a Faraday cage work well enough? Or would it have to be so thick to ground all the emp without any induced currents occurring inside the cage?
You don't have to ground a faraday cage in order for it to work
[QUOTE=ROBO_DONUT;34530050]Yeah, fuck Ebay if they actually condone this sort of thing. That's just dishonest.
Starting bids should [i]always[/i] be the minimum amount a seller is willing to settle for. If it's not, then it has absolutely no meaning whatsoever, and it's a farce, not a proper auction.
At that point, there's no reason not to set your starting bid to $0.01 for every single item just to have it at the top of the list when sorted by price.[/QUOTE]
It sounds like he didn't set a reserve price (AFAIK, It always shows "Reserve not met" near the price if there is a reserve set.), but instead he just cancelled the auction before the end and re-listed it. Contact eBay and follow this up.
I always thought it only was possible to cancel an auction when nobody has put a bid on it yet...
Let's clear things up:
-The auction wasn't on eBay
-The seller didn't back out, he set the minimal/reserve price to $150
-The minimal/reserve price was hidden.
[QUOTE=DrLuke;34542650]Nice toy-scope you have there[/QUOTE]
Its actually a good scope, for some reason is displays that awful image in the background all the time though
Also use [noparse][t][/t][/noparse] or resize your images please.
I broke it
fuck
I just messed the horrid bootloader's settings up though, can still change them, time to figure out how the hell to get it to load properly again
[QUOTE=opisafag;34542670]Its actually a good scope, for some reason is displays that awful image in the background all the time though[/QUOTE]
That scope is good for audio at most.
[QUOTE=VistaPOWA;34543227]That scope is good for audio at most.[/QUOTE]
Reading the specs, it's good enough for most low-speed serial communication, sensors, PWM, etc. That's all generally in the 100kHz range. If he's not interested in RF, then it's probably good enough.
It wasn't too long ago that we were using 56K modems, and the carrier for those is audio frequency. There's definitely some neat stuff you could do if you think about it a little bit.
It's not the scope I would buy (I'd try to get something >= 20MHz bandwidth), but I think you guys are being just a little bit over-critical.
I think it's too expensive though
[QUOTE=DrLuke;34543680]I think it's too expensive though[/QUOTE]
It's $100. The 50MHz Rigol is $400, if purchased [i]new[/i], and that's relatively low for such a scope. (This is an apples-to-oranges comparison, because of the differences in functionality, but there really aren't any other options at the absolute bare-minimum entry level, aside from used equipment)
And even if it was unreasonably priced (which it isn't), that's still no reason to go "durr hurr, nice toy". You weren't giving useful input, you were being a cunt.
[QUOTE=ROBO_DONUT;34543809]It's $100. The 50MHz Rigol is $400, if purchased [i]new[/i], and that's relatively low for such a scope. (This is an apples-to-oranges comparison, because of the differences in functionality, but there really aren't any other options at the absolute bare-minimum entry level, aside from used equipment)
And even if it was unreasonably priced (which it isn't), that's still no reason to go "durr hurr, nice toy". You weren't giving useful input, you were being a cunt.[/QUOTE]
You can get older DSOs for 150$.
[i]USED[/i]
I'm not saying used is a bad thing. I'd totally go for a used scope. But it isn't fair to compare the price of a new device with an old used device.
Dammit
Its like this thing was never intended to be hacked
[QUOTE=ROBO_DONUT;34544119][i]USED[/i]
I'm not saying used is a bad thing. I'd totally go for a used scope. But it isn't fair to compare the price of a new device with an old used device.[/QUOTE]
How is that unfair if the old device is better than the new device?
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ajl21ne6JaU[/media]
It's only useful to about 100kHz, and you pay a lot more per MHz compared to the rigol.
[editline]4th February 2012[/editline]
[QUOTE=opisafag;34544717]Dammit
Its like this thing was never intended to be hacked[/QUOTE]
Because it is.
[url]http://stores.ebay.com/Thai-Shop-Etc[/url] Nice shop for cheap components.
As for scopes like the DSO Nano they are totally not worth the price, the bandwidth and sampling memory is pretty horrible, overall barely adequate even for audio.
And really if you're willing to spend $100 on such junk you might as well save up another $200 and get a new good quality scope, or simply buy a used scope, otherwise it's just wasted money.
DSO Nano cost per 100kHz = $100
Generic 20MHz analog scope cost per 100kHz = $0.2 (or less)
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