[QUOTE=LoneWolf_Recon;35995500]One of the best Electronics sites on the net. Might wanna share these sites too:
[URL="http://www.robotroom.com/"]http://www.robotroom.com/[/URL]
[URL="http://www.societyofrobots.com/"]http://www.societyofrobots.com/[/URL]
And don't abuse this list:
[URL="http://www.dutchforce.com/~eforum/index.php?showtopic=13348"]http://www.dutchforce.com/~eforum/index.php?showtopic=13348[/URL][/QUOTE]
Society of Robots is a cool site but GOD this one robot butler project I was looking at made me wanna punch the kid. SO MUCH HOT GLUE!
[QUOTE=DrLuke;35997501]Yes, I do, I am going to give PCB etching another try[/QUOTE]
Might also want to get a hot air gun, no way you are going to get it on with a soldering iron.
[QUOTE=ddrl46;36001768]Might also want to get a hot air gun, no way you are going to get it on with a soldering iron.[/QUOTE]
I disagree, even though the lead does not stick out of the package simply putting a little solder on the iron tip and touching the pad should be sufficient, although you really want to be using additional flux as well to ensure you don't get a cold solder joint.
[QUOTE=Chryseus;36002755]I disagree, even though the lead does not stick out of the package simply putting a little solder on the iron tip and touching the pad should be sufficient, although you really want to be using additional flux as well to ensure you don't get a cold solder joint.[/QUOTE]
Good luck with a package this small.
[img]http://www.newark.com/productimages/farnell/standard/GE10LFCSP-40.jpg[/img]
It's very hard + the bottom pad has to be soldered too.
I have found one of these in my attic, and I'll use it together with solder paste:
[img]http://www.kochplatten.info/media/images/severin-kochplatte.jpg[/img]
[QUOTE=ddrl46;36002829]Good luck with a package this small.[/quote]
That's not small, it's about the same size as a TSSOP.
Assuming you don't shake like an old man or have a massive tip it should be no problem.
Pre-tin the pads.
Add some flux
Apply iron
Done
You don't need solder paste, unless your doing BGA.
That's half a millimetre from pad to pad.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/EVlh3.png[/img]
Basically my solder iron tip is almost as big as the ic.
[QUOTE=DrLuke;36002900]That's half a millimetre from pad to pad.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/EVlh3.png[/img]
Basically my solder iron tip is almost as big as the ic.[/QUOTE]
I soldered these (some accelerometer / gyro ICs in the same package) with a normal soldering iron. You'll manage :v:.
If anyone cares/remembers, a while ago I started an Electronics engineering course at Uni, and I was expressing doubt about it (I wasn't sure if I'd have preferred comp. sci.)
After learning a LOT of new stuff in the past academic year, I've started to love it! :v:
I'm still more keen on the digital components, but I can now really appreciate the analogue stuff, too. How you can make a lot happen from fairly basic bits of metal and silicon is mind blowing, and learning how (smaller versions of) these components combine to make ICs and sophisticated analogue circuits is fascinating
So uh...thanks for the motivation a while back and I guess I'll be joining you lot in future discussions :v:
make something cool and post it here
[QUOTE=DrLuke;36009575]make something cool and post it here[/QUOTE]
I have a small project lined up for when I finish these exams, I'll be sure to post it here if it's cool
Don't expect anything amazing, though, what I plan to do isn't exactly original or from scratch but if it works it will be cool
I'm thinking of what I should start with making when I get my Arduino Uno, I was thinking a led cube, but I think that's maybe abit too hard, any other suggestions?
[QUOTE=Staneh;36009632]I'm thinking of what I should start with making when I get my Arduino Uno, I was thinking a led cube, but I think that's maybe abit too hard, any other suggestions?[/QUOTE]
A 3x3x3 cube is pretty simple stuff, just a bit of soldering then tons of messing about in software to make cool animations. When you got a taste for it move on to making larger cubes, It gets really awesome when you get to the big ones (8x8x8 and larger)
well, the most important thing to watch out for is that you need transistors or shift registers (easier on the hardware, gives you more pins to control, slightly more difficulty in software) to be able to deliver enough power to all LEDs.
[url=http://electrical-workbench.blogspot.co.uk/2012/05/bipolar-transistor-switch-design-part-2.html] Switching transistor design - Part 2[/url]
I should write a textbook and get lots of $$$$
[QUOTE=chipset;36009785]A 3x3x3 cube is pretty simple stuff, just a bit of soldering then tons of messing about in software to make cool animations. When you got a taste for it move on to making larger cubes, It gets really awesome when you get to the big ones (8x8x8 and larger)[/QUOTE]
Alright, I'll try and make a 3x3 led cube and go from there then.
[QUOTE=DrLuke;36002900]That's half a millimetre from pad to pad.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/EVlh3.png[/img]
Basically my solder iron tip is almost as big as the ic.[/QUOTE]
Buy a desoldering iron and jury-rig it into a hot-air iron.
[url]http://www.piclist.com/techref/hotairpencil20usd.htm[/url]
[QUOTE=chipset;36009785]A 3x3x3 cube is pretty simple stuff, just a bit of soldering then tons of messing about in software to make cool animations. When you got a taste for it move on to making larger cubes, It gets really awesome when you get to the big ones (8x8x8 and larger)[/QUOTE]
Alright, I'll try and make a 3x3 led cube and go from there then.
So I bought a butane soldering iron, the gap between where you light it and the tip is too small so you end up getting a flame that doesn't even touch the tip even on the lowest setting.
I'm returning it..
You shouldn't get a flame at all.
There should be a catalyst and the flame should appear to extinguish and it should eventually glow red hot heating up the metal round it and eventually the tip.
Also, anyone needing good budget temperature controlled iron in the UK and can't find a suitably priced Hakko fx-888:
[url]http://labtronix.co.uk/drupal/shop/soldering/898bdplus[/url]
I've had mine for roughly 4 months now and it's fantastic, Uses a Hakko heating element and can take Hakko tips, for a small iron is has a massive thermal capacity, it will happily reflow a large solder joint on the tab of a TO-220! Bought a few replacement chisel tips and did some SMD work with it, just so much easier when you have the correct kit.
So yeah, pleased with that purchase.
[QUOTE=Staneh;36011189]Alright, I'll try and make a 3x3 led cube and go from there then.[/QUOTE]
Check instructables.com, there are plenty of great guides there, and not just for led cubes.
[QUOTE=Tezzanator92;36013219]You shouldn't get a flame at all.
There should be a catalyst and the flame should appear to extinguish and it should eventually glow red hot heating up the metal round it and eventually the tip.
Also, anyone needing good budget temperature controlled iron in the UK and can't find a suitably priced Hakko fx-888:
[url]http://labtronix.co.uk/drupal/shop/soldering/898bdplus[/url]
I've had mine for roughly 4 months now and it's fantastic, Uses a Hakko heating element and can take Hakko tips, for a small iron is has a massive thermal capacity, it will happily reflow a large solder joint on the tab of a TO-220! Bought a few replacement chisel tips and did some SMD work with it, just so much easier when you have the correct kit.
So yeah, pleased with that purchase.[/QUOTE]
[url]http://www.dealextreme.com/p/hanko-fx-888-70w-soldering-station-ac-220v-126505?item=2[/url]
And yes it's genuine, a few guys on the EEVBlog forum have bought them and verified that.
I know what to get for my birthday now :-D
It looks really cute
How do you think a Raspberry PI would compare to an old R51 Thinkpad [url]http://www.thinkwiki.org/wiki/Category:R51[/url] .
I have a Thinkpad with a 1.5 GHz celeron and an Intel accelerator. My guess is that the celeron will be better than the ARM processor, while the PI's GPU would be slightly better than the Intel accelerator, at least for HD-video playback due to the MPEG acceleration?
Well, the laptop has a monitor, keyboard and touchpad built in, aswell as a battery.
We're making a line follower for some contest and currently all sensors work and motor controller works properly also.
We were wondering how we could make the motors have a higher max speed (with the same wheels), at the moment we have 4 x AA batteries in series, meaning ~6 volts to the motor controller.
We read that our motors can handle 9 volts so does that mean we can simply add 2 AA batteries in series which will result in 9 volts and faster motors?
[URL="http://www.dfrobot.com/wiki/index.php?title=MD1.3_2A_Dual_Motor_Controller_(SKU:_DRI0002)"]MD 1.3 2A motor controller[/URL]
[URL="http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1093"]30:1 HP motors 1000RPM[/URL]
I realize this probably sounds really newbish, but I'd really appreciate it if someone could help us with this
shit quality but yea it's something:
[img]http://i.snag.gy/aIcKx.jpg[/img]
[QUOTE=XeNo;36018463]We're making a line follower for some contest and currently all sensors work and motor controller works properly also.
We were wondering how we could make the motors have a higher max speed (with the same wheels), at the moment we have 4 x AA batteries in series, meaning ~6 volts to the motor controller.
[b]We read that our motors can handle 9 volts so does that mean we can simply add 2 AA batteries in series which will result in 9 volts and faster motors?[/b]
[URL="http://www.dfrobot.com/wiki/index.php?title=MD1.3_2A_Dual_Motor_Controller_(SKU:_DRI0002)"]MD 1.3 2A motor controller[/URL]
[URL="http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1093"]30:1 HP motors 1000RPM[/URL]
I realize this probably sounds really newbish, but I'd really appreciate it if someone could help us with this
shit quality but yea it's something:
[img]http://i.snag.gy/aIcKx.jpg[/img][/QUOTE]
Yes.
[QUOTE=DrLuke;36017413]Well, the laptop has a monitor, keyboard and touchpad built in, aswell as a battery.[/QUOTE]
Wow thanks, I never knew.
What I meant was: How much power (as in raw performance) should I expect from a Raspbery PI? Would it be way less than that thinkpad or roughly the same?
I know the Raspberry PI is no "G4m3r 1337"-system, I am just trying to get an idea about what it is capable of.
[QUOTE=drblah;36019587]Wow thanks, I never knew.
What I meant was: How much power (as in raw performance) should I expect from a Raspbery PI? Would it be way less than that thinkpad or roughly the same?
I know the Raspberry PI is no "G4m3r 1337"-system, I am just trying to get an idea about what it is capable of.[/QUOTE]
Well the raspberry pi it's processing power is kind of comparable to the processing power you would get out of a Pentium I / II.
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