[QUOTE=ddrl46;36019838]Well the raspberry pi it's processing power is kind of comparable to the processing power you would get out of a Pentium I / II.[/QUOTE]
Okay, thanks.
[QUOTE=DrLuke;36019942]I think it has roughly 700 MHZ, so go figure.[/QUOTE]
Frequency != processing power.
Well, you're right, but the ARM is a RISC CPU so it probably going to boast something around 700 MIPS (assuming it's running at 700 MHZ).
Unfortunately I don't know about the MIPS of Intel Pentiums, but I can imagine that the thinkpad linked above will be faster than a RPi.
Do you guys think I can do something with this? I found an old calculator and thought i'd strip it, and I salvaged this:
[img]http://i.imgur.com/TpfCQ.jpg[/img]
Can I use this as a simple screen for an Arduino, or is this impossible?
Most likely it uses a display controller for which you just won't find a datasheet, so you don't know how to control it
I assume that's the display driver board ?
Probably the only way you would get that to work would be to see it working in the actual calculator, you can then probe around and figure out how how it communicates to the display driver, of course you'd need to know what you're looking at and have a scope / logic analyser.
Ultimately you'd be better off getting a cheap display off of ebay that contains a driver supported by the Arduino library.
[QUOTE=Staneh;36022516]Do you guys think I can do something with this? I found an old calculator and thought i'd strip it, and I salvaged this:
[img]http://i.imgur.com/TpfCQ.jpg[/img]
Can I use this as a simple screen for an Arduino, or is this impossible?[/QUOTE]
Actually I think that all segments are just connected to the wires coming out of it, try a few different combinations and figure out what pin does what.
Edit: Oh wow that IC is really hidden with the green epoxy over it.
Ugh, the Arduino I bought failed, and I got my money back, now I bought a genuine board, which was about 26 euros, now I'm getting it in like 2 days instead of 2 weeks. Woohoo.
I got one more question, I am trying to power this laser diode:
[img]http://i.imgur.com/3epKm.jpg[/img]
But, how do I actually put power on it and turn it on? I mean, there is only a spring, and no + and - to connect to.
[QUOTE=Staneh;36032732]I got one more question, I am trying to power this laser diode:
[img]http://i.imgur.com/3epKm.jpg[/img]
But, how do I actually put power on it and turn it on? I mean, there is only a spring, and no + and - to connect to.[/QUOTE]
GND serves as your -, though I am unsure how you'd connect to it (unless there is something on the back or you solder it straight on)
Connect + to the spring (assuming the spring connects to Vcc)
Looks like a very application-specific module
Ahh, I got it, the + was the spring, and the - was the big screw thing... Weird, but okay, it works.
[QUOTE=Staneh;36032732]I got one more question, I am trying to power this laser diode:
[img]http://i.imgur.com/3epKm.jpg[/img]
But, how do I actually put power on it and turn it on? I mean, there is only a spring, and no + and - to connect to.[/QUOTE]
Solder a Red lead onto the VCC pad in the top corner, then solder a black lead onto the GND pad in the bottom corner, the red lead will take the positive of the power (generally 3v)
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OqNbFQCQSQE[/media]
When I'm bored in class
Just bought a soldering kit, pretty cool.
[QUOTE=Staneh;36039069]Just bought a soldering kit, pretty cool.[/QUOTE]
Don't be a boob, share pics!
[QUOTE=Staneh;36032838]Ahh, I got it, the + was the spring, and the - was the big screw thing... Weird, but okay, it works.[/QUOTE]
The reason the ground is connected to the big screw thing is that the battery's negative terminal is connected to the metal case of the laser pointer which screws into it.
[QUOTE=ddrl46;36039427]The reason the ground is connected to the big screw thing is that the battery's negative terminal is connected to the metal case of the laser pointer which screws into it.[/QUOTE]
Actually the case is positive, while the spring is the negative terminal.
[QUOTE=chipset;36039161]Don't be a boob, share pics![/QUOTE]
It's nothing special, but here:
[img]http://i.imgur.com/SJQcC.jpg[/img]
[QUOTE=Staneh;36039509]It's nothing special, but here:
[img]http://i.imgur.com/SJQcC.jpg[/img][/QUOTE]
Jesus christ man, you can solder boats with solder wire that thick. Get something waaay thinner for anything electronics-related.
[QUOTE=Staneh;36039509]It's nothing special, but here:
[img]http://i.imgur.com/SJQcC.jpg[/img][/QUOTE]
Jesus that solder is thick.
For fine soldering you'll want the thinnest you can get.
Myself I have a 250g roll of 0.54mm solder.
I failed completely in trying to solder headers to one of those Sparkfun LCD displays. I accidently soldered two headers together and due to my shitty soldering iron I think I fired the chip as I can't regulate the temperature on it.
You learn by mistakes though.
[B][U]LESSONS LEARNED[/U][/B]
1. Never solder small electronics with a thick solder
2. Don't use a too high temperature when soldering, especially when soldering on PCBs as you risk frying the chip.
3. Use a thinner soldering iron tip when soldering small electronics e.g PCBs.
Also you want 60/40 tin/lead solder which is meant for electronics, 40/60 will not work nearly as good.
63/37 is the best if you can find a good seller.
A simple plug in iron works as long as you're careful but really you should get a decent temperature controlled iron with a selection of tips, preferably a chisel tip for general use and a small pencil tip for smaller jobs.
[QUOTE=DrLuke;36039454]Actually the case is positive, while the spring is the negative terminal.[/QUOTE]
If you took at the board the spring is connected to Vcc.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/bpFFN.jpg[/img]
Multicore 0.54mm solder - 500g roll. relatively expensive (I think mine was about £20?) but will last a lifetime :v: - I've also got a roll of 1.2mm cheap-o solder for silly high current joints and stuff.
Going from a standard thermostatic iron to a fully temperature controlled one with decent bits has made my soldering much more consistent.
hey fellos.. does anyone here knows why i keep getting black squares at my 16x2 charcter lcd?
i used at89c5131 development board, btw I'm Studying for "Practical Engineer" degree and i think arduino is pathetic.
[QUOTE=Lyoko2;36041374]hey fellos.. does anyone here knows why i keep getting black squares at my 16x2 charcter lcd?
i used at89c5131 development board, btw I'm Studying for "Practical Engineer" degree and i think arduino is pathetic.[/QUOTE]
One of your data/control lines isn't working. The one-black-line screen is the default state of a HD44780-based screen. Use a logical analyzer to debug your code.
[QUOTE=Lyoko2;36041374]hey fellos.. does anyone here knows why i keep getting black squares at my 16x2 charcter lcd?
i used at89c5131 development board, btw I'm Studying for "Practical Engineer" degree and i think arduino is pathetic.[/QUOTE]
Do you mean that you can only print black squares or that you have a row of black squares on your screen?
If it's the latter, try adjusting the contrast of the screen.
[QUOTE=Lyoko2;36041374]i think arduino is pathetic.[/QUOTE]
Out of curiosity, why do you think they're pathetic? They are indeed very nice and simple to work with but that doesn't necessarily mean they're pathetic (unless you intend to do some serious stuff with them, in which case you shouldn't be using an arduino!)
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