[QUOTE=DrLuke;34544981]How is that unfair if the old device is better than the new device?[/QUOTE]
That isn't the point at all. You're selecting the most irrelevant things to attack. I am not saying it is a substitute for a proper scope in many circumstances. My point, here, is that you are derailing the thread to make fun of someone's equipment [i]after[/i] they've already purchased it. Nobody was looking for or giving hardware recommendations. It isn't the least bit helpful. It's spiteful and it's stupid.
Pretty much found everything I need to get started making PCBs.
This is going to be fun.
I got an old comp psu, and I want to make it into a 12v benchtop thing. I tried following some tutorials online (never a good idea), so what I did was I separated all yellow and black wires, and stuck them into alligator clips. Then I took one black wire, and soldered it to one side of the power switch on the psu. Then I took the green wire (I think it was green), and soldered it to the other side. Then I plugged it in and turned it on. The 20A breaker for my room tripped. What did I do wrong?
[QUOTE=bobthe2lol;34549470]I got an old comp psu, and I want to make it into a 12v benchtop thing. I tried following some tutorials online (never a good idea), so what I did was I separated all yellow and black wires, and stuck them into alligator clips. Then I took one black wire, and soldered it to one side of the power switch on the psu. Then I took the green wire (I think it was green), and soldered it to the other side. Then I plugged it in and turned it on. The 20A breaker for my room tripped. What did I do wrong?[/QUOTE]
Seems like you used a PSU without a self-resetting fuse inside?
I hate eBay too.
Found a really good auction (100 RGB LEDs, free shipping, starting bid at 0.99$), so yeah, I bid on it.
I got overbid, so I decide to wait around for a bit. 30 seconds remain of the auction, I place a bid. For some reason eBay timed out and didn't register my bid. Fucking hell. The new auction that shop put up ends at March 5th, and he doesn't do free shipping anymore.
[editline]5th February 2012[/editline]
I wonder, are chinese suppliers from Alibaba.com reliable?
[QUOTE=bobthe2lol;34549470]I got an old comp psu, and I want to make it into a 12v benchtop thing. I tried following some tutorials online (never a good idea), so what I did was I separated all yellow and black wires, and stuck them into alligator clips. Then I took one black wire, and soldered it to one side of the power switch on the psu. Then I took the green wire (I think it was green), and soldered it to the other side. Then I plugged it in and turned it on. The 20A breaker for my room tripped. What did I do wrong?[/QUOTE]
If it was an old PSU from a brand-name PC (HP, Compaq, Dell, etc), then you need to double-check what the power-on wire is. They have a nasty tendency of switching wire colors on folks.
Buuuut reading what you typed more closely, it seems you wired it to the power-on switch on the PSU itself, meaning you just ran line voltage into the power-on wire of the PSU.
So, what you need to do is just take the green wire (if that really is your power-on wire) and any ground wire, and hook up its own, separate switch.
Managed to get my Commodore 1581 working again after some minor repairs!
[img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/cApn6.jpg[/img_thumb]
[img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/PAyjk.jpg[/img_thumb]
I think I'm going to solder some wires onto the flash of this thing and then manually dump/write it
Hardware hacking is awesome
I'm looking for an C++ AVR library which supports the ATMega2560, ideally it would support SPI, I2C, Uart, ADC, LCD, SD cards etc.
No point in writing all that if somebody else has already done so. The libraries I've found don't support the ATMega2560.
I'm also looking for suggestions on bootloaders for it. Any ideas ?
[QUOTE=Zero-Point;34551417]If it was an old PSU from a brand-name PC (HP, Compaq, Dell, etc), then you need to double-check what the power-on wire is. They have a nasty tendency of switching wire colors on folks.
Buuuut reading what you typed more closely, it seems you wired it to the power-on switch on the PSU itself, meaning you just ran line voltage into the power-on wire of the PSU.
So, what you need to do is just take the green wire (if that really is your power-on wire) and any ground wire, and hook up its own, separate switch.[/QUOTE]
Oh. Haha, that would be it then. Thanks :v:
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0eIYbomJqoo[/media]
Still have to rewrite the code, since I use delay(); everywhere but I will make this with IC's on my model train layout
[QUOTE=bobthe2lol;34557600]Oh. Haha, that would be it then. Thanks :v:[/QUOTE]
After having mains on the enable pin of the power supply I don't think it will work again.
[QUOTE=ddrl46;34557715]After having mains on the enable pin of the power supply I don't think it will work again.[/QUOTE]
Damn. At least it was only $10.
He said black cable... I though mains cables were blue and brown?
Need more info to be helpful!
[QUOTE=DrLuke;34557837]He said black cable... I though mains cables were blue and brown?
Need more info to be helpful![/QUOTE]
No, I soldered a green wire to one side of the main power switch, and a black one to the other side. I think I probably fried it. There was some buzzing/sparks when I first tried it, then each time after it just tripped the breaker silently.
Uh, ok? Did you just take some switch or do you mean the switch inside the PSU on the backside...
[QUOTE=DrLuke;34557894]Uh, ok? Did you just take some switch or do you mean the switch inside the PSU on the backside...[/QUOTE]
The switch inside the psu, with some other bigass wires soldered to it.
I just realized I will have to upgrade the flash in this thing for this to run properly, fuck
I suck at soldering surface mounts
[editline]5th February 2012[/editline]
Okey, apparantly the bootloader had some second stage loaded at some random location inside that flash
I broke it, woop
Think I'm going to get one of these kits:
[url]http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=820[/url]
I will still use my AVR for smaller projects, but for larger ones (Especially those requiring graphical displays and Ethernet), the .Net platform will allow for much faster development and it has a nice library.
That and it's a full 32bit processor running at 72Mhz.
This page shows how nice the development process, especially for rapid prototyping:
[url]http://www.ghielectronics.com/downloads/Gadgeteer/Mainboard/Spider_GettingStarted/[/url]
When it comes time to making an actual product, they sell the main processing module separate:
[url]http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=846[/url]
At £54 it is quite expensive so it only really an option for larger projects - But if graphical LCDs and Ethernet are involved, chances are it comes under the category of "larger project".
In my opinion it's microsoft trying to make electronics a plug-and-play type of developing process, and I personally don't like this at all. It constrains you in your possibilites.
[QUOTE=DrLuke;34563738]In my opinion it's microsoft trying to make electronics a plug-and-play type of developing process, and I personally don't like this at all. It constrains you in your possibilites.[/QUOTE]
There are breakouts which allow you to use GPIO in a breadboard, or connect to other devices such as a Bluetooth modem or some I2C device.
While it has on-board hardware for Ethernet and WiFi, there's no reason why you have to use it.
It a way, I see it as being no more or less plug-and-play as Arduinos and their shields - The only difference being that if you do you the .Net Gadgeteer modules, you have the visual studio designer which produces a small amount of boilerplate code for you. (Basically just initialising an object for each device you've used with the correct pins specified.)
"Microsoft .NET Gadgeteer is an open-source toolkit for building small electronic devices using the .NET Micro Framework and Visual Studio/Visual C# Express."
Every time I read "Micrsoft" and "open-source" in the same sentence, I die a little inside. They've spent a very long time trying to shut down FOSS competition and undermine open standards whenever they have the opportunity. When it was obvious to them that this was impossible, when FOSS was finally gaining traction and had built a good reputation, they latched the fuck onto it as nothing more than a marketing gimmick. If they get some other people to do their work for them, then it's doubly-good as far as they're concerned.
They have absolutely no commitment to open-source/standards, regardless of what they put in huge print on the main page of their websites.
[url]http://iteadstudio.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=19_20&products_id=173[/url]
That's some cheap PCB manufacturing...
Obviously the quality will be far from perfect, but I believe this is nice for people running on a low budget like me.
Next month I will give this a try!
I've just checked shipping, and it's only 4$ to germany! It will most likely take a few weeks, but hey, it's cheap as hell!
[QUOTE=DrLuke;34565160][url]http://iteadstudio.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=19_20&products_id=173[/url]
That's some cheap PCB manufacturing...
Obviously the quality will be far from perfect, but I believe this is nice for people running on a low budget like me.
Next month I will give this a try!
I've just checked shipping, and it's only 4$ to germany! It will most likely take a few weeks, but hey, it's cheap as hell![/QUOTE]
Agreed, it looks good, EEVblog says it takes a while though and the boards aren't terrible or the best quality.
i gotta give it a go myself though.
Just finished repairing a digital radio, something was broken in the circuit that switches between AC power or battery so I just wired the AC power (rectified of course) to the regulator.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/TAj5I.jpg[/img]
The old man that owns it is now a very happy guy :-)
I did it for free of course.
But what if he wants to power it with batteries?!
Add a switch!
[QUOTE=DrLuke;34616177]But what if he wants to power it with batteries?!
Add a switch![/QUOTE]
The old man is too weak to even leave the house so battery power would serve no purpose.
[video=youtube;EoWMF3VkI6U]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EoWMF3VkI6U[/video]
Fun with ultracapacitors (2600 F)
Fun with ultralate
Got some nice [url=http://www.maxim-ic.com/datasheet/index.mvp/id/1700]MAX6350[/url] voltage references from Maxim, 5V with an initial 0.02% tolerance and a 0.5ppm/C tempco.
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