Holy shit I'm going to buy these jumper cables.
[img]http://img.dxcdn.com/productimages/sku_131727_2.jpg[/img]
Just look at that shit.
Too bad the delivery time of Dealextreme is like 1 month.
I've heard it can be as good as 2 weeks.
Those resistors look useful, I've got a couple thousand 5% carbon resistors.
I've never bought off DealExtreme before. I tend to buy in bulk off ebay, farnell or rapid.
DealExtreme is good though, I've bought from it alot of times, it all shipped well, and they were all good products.
[url]http://www.dealextreme.com/p/hk3ff-dc12v-shg-5-pin-power-relay-black-5-piece-134092[/url]
oooooo I like relays
My last order at DX disappointed me, because they took 2 months until they shipped, and then another 2 months until it arrived.
What'd you order?
[QUOTE=Staneh;36083049]What'd you order?[/QUOTE]
2x 18650 batteries + a battery holder, tweezers, butane torch
I'm confuse.
DX has like 4-5 different kinds of 4mm binding posts, most of them are "audio" binding posts which are really short, much shorter than normal binding posts.
ex: [url]http://www.dealextreme.com/p/diy-4mm-audio-speaker-binding-post-terminal-red-20-piece-pack-128819[/url]
Then there are the longer ones,
[url]http://www.dealextreme.com/p/diy-binding-post-terminals-red-silver-20-piece-pack-131165?item=40[/url]
these are however somewhat more expensive.
My fear is that if I buy the shorter ones I find they're too small for a reliable and sturdy connection and/or they don't isolate to the case (can't tell for sure if any of these isolate) so I'm a bit lost here.
Help?
I'm not 100% certain, but it could be that the smallers ones are made for audio plugs (the 3,5mm ones), and the bigger one is made for banana plugs, which is why I'd go with the bigger ones.
[QUOTE=DrLuke;36086492]I'm not 100% certain, but it could be that the smallers ones are made for audio plugs (the 3,5mm ones), and the bigger one is made for banana plugs, which is why I'd go with the bigger ones.[/QUOTE]
Yeah that's what I decided.
Also my DX order is up to $100, I just discovered their selection of servos and I still haven't looked through their high power LED section.
I'm gonna go poor.
[editline]25th May 2012[/editline]
[url]http://www.dealextreme.com/p/0-1mm-copper-wires-50-piece-set-30321[/url]
A kilometer of copper wire anyone?
That's like, not expensive at all.
It would be more interesting if it was in one piece.
My tesla coil has roughly 400m of wire on it.
Can someone tell me what I'm doing wrong?
I have a 555 timer in astable with R1 , R2 at 39K and C = 0.01uf.
I put a speaker to output pin and I hear a square wave.
I connected a transistor to the output pin, ( to Base ) and I just can't get any sound anymore from that transistor, I've many NPN transistors and some N-Channel Mosfets but I can't get it to work, please help.
of course the transistor is connected to ( - ).
or am I missing something and I should use PNP?
Like this?
[img]http://i50.tinypic.com/xkrskk.png[/img]
The resistor should be something between 100 - 1k Ohm. Although it isn't really necessary on 555 timers, it is a good practice.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/RATD8.png[/img]
Can a servo-motor like this spin like, really fast?
[img]http://iprototype.nl/images/products/839_big.png[/img]
[QUOTE=Staneh;36092466]Can a servo-motor like this spin like, really fast?
[img]http://iprototype.nl/images/products/839_big.png[/img][/QUOTE]
What do you define as really fast? Some can certainly go faster than others, while some are pretty slow.
[editline]27th May 2012[/editline]
Also generating audio with an AVR is fun:
[img]http://i50.tinypic.com/2ni4075.png[/img]
I am trying to build something like a 4-channel synth.
The four channels will be 2 square waves, one triangle wave and one noise channel, while only the 2 square waves will have different volume levels, and the other 2 will play at full volume all the time.
[QUOTE=Staneh;36092466]Can a servo-motor like this spin like, really fast?
[img]http://iprototype.nl/images/products/839_big.png[/img][/QUOTE]
Generally they have ratings for their speed, they can get pretty fast though
[QUOTE=DrLuke;36092583]What do you define as really fast? Some can certainly go faster than others, while some are pretty slow.
[/QUOTE]
Ah, here, the speed rating is 60° in 0.16sec, so that's around 1 second for a full 360 degree turn. Not sure how fast that is though, probably not so fast.
I'm looking for a DC that can make a pretty quick RPM, with still some strength, not one like this, but stronger:
[img]http://iprototype.nl/images/products/889_big.png[/img]
Any suggestions?
[url]http://imgur.com/a/FJOBN[/url]
Got my peltier sandwiched between heat sinks, according to my arduino temp sensor, the cold side got to -3 degrees :D
[QUOTE=Staneh;36092751]Ah, here, the speed rating is 60° in 0.16sec, so that's around 1 second for a full 360 degree turn. Not sure how fast that is though, probably not so fast.
I'm looking for a DC that can make a pretty quick RPM, with still some strength, not one like this, but stronger:
[img]http://iprototype.nl/images/products/889_big.png[/img]
Any suggestions?[/QUOTE]
I think you're looking for a gearmotor.
[QUOTE=BMCHa;36092953]I think you're looking for a gearmotor.[/QUOTE]
Encoded gear motor too maybe?
Hmm, any idea where I can buy those, with a not too harsh delivery time and costs?
[url]http://iprototype.nl/products/robotics/servo-motors/dc-geared-motor[/url]
How about this one? it has 1.92kg/cm, 200 RPM.
[QUOTE=Staneh;36093077]Hmm, any idea where I can buy those, with a not too harsh delivery time and costs?
[url]http://iprototype.nl/products/robotics/servo-motors/dc-geared-motor[/url]
How about this one? it has 1.92kg/cm, 200 RPM.[/QUOTE]
It all depends entirely on what you're using it for, what kind of load you're moving and such.
[QUOTE=DrLuke;36088672]Like this?
[img]http://i50.tinypic.com/xkrskk.png[/img]
The resistor should be something between 100 - 1k Ohm. Although it isn't really necessary on 555 timers, it is a good practice.[/QUOTE]
I did not have a resistor going from output to Base, could that be the problem?
[QUOTE=marcin1337;36095554]I did not have a resistor going from output to Base, could that be the problem?[/QUOTE]
It shouldn't be the problem, just put one in and try it out. Also the diode across the speaker is very important, otherwise you can destroy your transistor.
Found one of those demo units Monster Power has setup in places like Best Buy and Future Shop to demonstrate that AC line noise is bad and that you should buy their overpriced shit.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/100_2829.jpg[/IMG]
Red button gives a percentage value on the display of how much noise there is and a speaker spits out noise. In my case I was hearing the weak side of a local radio station. The green button apparently runs the same AC line through their filter and is dead silent and the display reads 0.01.
Okay, so it's doing something here. Lets take the top off.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/100_2830.jpg[/IMG]
Oh, so only the Analog Filter channel is actually used for the demo unit. They just snipped and heatshrunk the ends off I guess to prevent shorting. Lets remove the board.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/100_2831.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/100_2832.jpg[/IMG]
Well done Monster Cable. You made a complicated looking line filter unit worth hundreds to you in fact really be three capacitors, two coils, and a resistor. Not only did you not bother adding traces in for anything else but you WASTED money just populating the board instead of being shady assholes and only having the one set of parts that ARE used visible through the transparent cover. I have 15 year old surge strips that are better than this.
Anyways, the rest of the logic resides here.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/100_2833.jpg[/IMG]
Everything seems to come from this board and while it looks far more respectable, I can find no mention of Alphalabs or this particular board.
[QUOTE=MIPS;36104871]Found one of those demo units Monster Power has setup in places like Best Buy and Future Shop to demonstrate that AC line noise is bad and that you should buy their overpriced shit.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/100_2829.jpg[/IMG]
Red button gives a percentage value on the display of how much noise there is and a speaker spits out noise. In my case I was hearing the weak side of a local radio station. The green button apparently runs the same AC line through their filter and is dead silent and the display reads 0.01.
Okay, so it's doing something here. Lets take the top off.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/100_2830.jpg[/IMG]
Oh, so only the Analog Filter channel is actually used for the demo unit. They just snipped and heatshrunk the ends off I guess to prevent shorting. Lets remove the board.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/100_2831.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/100_2832.jpg[/IMG]
Well done Monster Cable. You made a complicated looking line filter unit worth hundreds to you in fact really be three capacitors, two coils, and a resistor. Not only did you not bother adding traces in for anything else but you WASTED money just populating the board instead of being shady assholes and only having the one set of parts that ARE used visible through the transparent cover. I have 15 year old surge strips that are better than this.
Anyways, the rest of the logic resides here.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/100_2833.jpg[/IMG]
Everything seems to come from this board and while it looks far more respectable, I can find no mention of Alphalabs or this particular board.[/QUOTE]
It's hilarious and at the same time infuriating that a company would stoop so low. Hooray for the free market.
But seriously dude, I'm worried now that they're gonna show up at your house and break your legs now that you've revealed their dirty little secret.
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