[QUOTE=ddrl46;36154522]You could try putting a resistor in series with the ground lead.[/QUOTE]
I'm just more nervous with the screwdrivers. Cheap chinese screwdrivers do have plastic handles but they don't seem to insulate as well when you are working with voltages over 220v
Also, Hitachi has a niche for them in hell for fucking gluing the anode caps to their CRT's.
[QUOTE=MIPS;36157312]I'm just more nervous with the screwdrivers. Cheap chinese screwdrivers do have plastic handles but they don't seem to insulate as well when you are working with voltages over 220v
Also, Hitachi has a niche for them in hell for fucking gluing the anode caps to their CRT's.[/QUOTE]
Ground the screwdriver, then you don't have to worry.
I already did that. They're discharged now.
[QUOTE=MIPS;36157312]I'm just more nervous with the screwdrivers. Cheap chinese screwdrivers do have plastic handles but they don't seem to insulate as well when you are working with voltages over 220v
Also, Hitachi has a niche for them in hell for fucking gluing the anode caps to their CRT's.[/QUOTE]
As long as it's grounded it won't take the path through your body.
A capacitor blew in my router and I want to replace it. It was 100uF 16V and I only have a 100uF 25V one. How much does this matter?
It's perfectly OK.
Make sure you take note of the polarity when removing the original and put the new one in the same way.
[QUOTE=ROBO_DONUT;36160373]It's perfectly OK.
Make sure you take note of the polarity when removing the original and put the new one in the same way.[/QUOTE]
Thanks, I replaced it and no problems so far. Lets hope it stays that way.
[QUOTE=DrLuke;36156685][img]http://i48.tinypic.com/1zld668.png[/img]
It's an amazing feeling to hold my own PCB in my hands :)
[editline]1st June 2012[/editline]
[img]http://i45.tinypic.com/fm2zyr.png[/img]
I hope the MOSFET-drivers can survive without a heatsink, because I just noticed that I forgot to took their size into account, as in I'd have to cut one in half.[/QUOTE]
Nice, what function will they have?
Also, what is the recommended way to go about making a PCB? When I was in college (UK college, not University) we used to print out the layout on an acetate sheet and use a UV box to transfer the layout, then use an etching tank
It was all horribly crude, we had to drill the holes and we couldn't apply any labels to the PCB and the holes weren't nicely coated
So how do you make them?
[QUOTE=Trumple;36161327]Nice, what function will they have?
Also, what is the recommended way to go about making a PCB? When I was in college (UK college, not University) we used to print out the layout on an acetate sheet and use a UV box to transfer the layout, then use an etching tank
It was all horribly crude, we had to drill the holes and we couldn't apply any labels to the PCB and the holes weren't nicely coated
So how do you make them?[/QUOTE]
He ordered them at a place called Seeedstudio.
[url]http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/fusion-pcb-service-p-835.html?cPath=185[/url]
Took apart an old 215W ATX supply and got some good loot:
3 high frequency transformers
2 680uF 200V caps
pile of large inductors including 2 coupled inductors
thermistors
various capacitors
2 E13007F2 400V BJTs
SBL3040PT 30A! Schottky barrier rectifier
KBL407 4A bridge rectifier
SF1002G super fast 10A rectifier
STPS2045CT 10A Schottkey barrier rectifier
5A glass fuse
1H0165R off-line SMPS regulator
KA3511 intelligent voltage mode PWM controller
PC817 photocoupler
2 nice heatsinks
Also got a Stannah optical switch used in elevators which is a bit broken but I should be able to fix it, has some very cool PVT412 optically isolated 400V switches in ceramic DIP.
[QUOTE=ddrl46;36161373]He ordered them at a place called Seeedstudio.
[url]http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/fusion-pcb-service-p-835.html?cPath=185[/url][/QUOTE]
Nice, thanks.
They seem much cheaper than the ones I've seen
[QUOTE=Trumple;36161480]Nice, thanks.
They seem much cheaper than the ones I've seen[/QUOTE]
Prepare to wait forever for them to ship though.
[QUOTE=ddrl46;36161493]Prepare to wait forever for them to ship though.[/QUOTE]
Yeah considering the waiting time, perhaps paying a little more is worth it
[QUOTE=Chryseus;36161467]Took apart an old 215W ATX supply and got some good loot:
3 high frequency transformers
2 680uF 200V caps
pile of large inductors including 2 coupled inductors
thermistors
various capacitors
2 E13007F2 400V BJTs
SBL3040PT 30A! Schottky barrier rectifier
KBL407 4A bridge rectifier
SF1002G super fast 10A rectifier
STPS2045CT 10A Schottkey barrier rectifier
5A glass fuse
1H0165R off-line SMPS regulator
KA3511 intelligent voltage mode PWM controller
PC817 photocoupler
2 nice heatsinks
Also got a Stannah optical switch used in elevators which is a bit broken but I should be able to fix it, has some very cool PVT412 optically isolated 400V switches in ceramic DIP.[/QUOTE]
ATX power supplies are a veritable treasure trove of components, especially since older ones are considered garbage. I probably salvaged and took apart close to half a dozen of the suckers.
Does anybody know the name of those sliding buttons like those you usually see on a mixing board? I want to use them for a project but i can't recall their name.
[QUOTE=0lenny0;36162011]Does anybody know the name of those sliding buttons like those you usually see on a mixing board? I want to use them for a project but i can't recall their name.[/QUOTE]
Sliding potentiometer is what you're looking for.
[url]http://iteadstudio.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=19_20[/url]
They only took 3 weeks to ship
[QUOTE=0lenny0;36162011]Does anybody know the name of those sliding buttons like those you usually see on a mixing board? I want to use them for a project but i can't recall their name.[/QUOTE]
Even sparkfun has a wide variety of them [url]http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9119[/url]
Just got in my samples shipment from TI, I plan to make my bench top logic power supply with some [URL="http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/slvs638b/slvs638b.pdf"]switching regulators[/URL](I've already killed off all my other 7805s...)
[QUOTE=Chryseus;36161467]Took apart an old 215W ATX supply and got some good loot:
3 high frequency transformers
2 680uF 200V caps
pile of large inductors including 2 coupled inductors
thermistors
various capacitors
2 E13007F2 400V BJTs
SBL3040PT 30A! Schottky barrier rectifier
KBL407 4A bridge rectifier
SF1002G super fast 10A rectifier
STPS2045CT 10A Schottkey barrier rectifier
5A glass fuse
1H0165R off-line SMPS regulator
KA3511 intelligent voltage mode PWM controller
PC817 photocoupler
2 nice heatsinks
Also got a Stannah optical switch used in elevators which is a bit broken but I should be able to fix it, has some very cool PVT412 optically isolated 400V switches in ceramic DIP.[/QUOTE]
That sounds like the contents of a Deer or Sparkle/SPI power supply from the early days of ATX.
[QUOTE=MIPS;36165960]That sounds like the contents of a Deer or Sparkle/SPI power supply from the early days of ATX.[/QUOTE]
I don't think it's that old, around 2001 if my memory is correct, maybe they based it on an older design.
Just fixed a Nikon SB-600 flash that someone managed to break the base off of, had to solder back on a tiny SMD connector that was also ripped off.
[img_thumb]http://i.cubeupload.com/VgRu6D.jpg[/img_thumb]
Probably looks worse than it actually looks in real life due to the light.
I don't quite understand why you need to tape a dildo to a soldering iron to successfully solder SMD parts? In what way does that help...?
[b]Edit:[/b]
[quote]The vibrator is there to show you that even with the most SHAKY of hands, you too can do SMD soldering.[/quote]
Right, get it now... He should have added that in the video, though. Couldn't figure out at all why a vibrating soldering iron would help.
[QUOTE=Lapsus;36167807][video=youtube;4xcEG_c0uaM]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4xcEG_c0uaM[/video][/QUOTE]
Ehh, you can solder 0604 and SOIC 8 fine without taping a dildo/vibrator to your soldering iron.
[QUOTE=ddrl46;36167931]Ehh, you can solder 0604 and SOIC 8 fine without taping a dildo to your soldering iron.[/QUOTE]
That's a vibrator, actually. Which brings up the question: why do you even own one?
[QUOTE=Kirth;36168036]That's a vibrator, actually. Which brings up the question: why do you even own one?[/QUOTE]
I didn't say that I own one?
So...much...interesting...projects..
Why do I need to make my own Yagi-antenna in order to continue my research program on homebuilt tv transmitters..
In other news, I bought a kit of some Audio/Video modulator, and will build it in in a 19" rack with proper filtering and an amplifier to serve as a transmiter that could cover the whole block with Chezburger-tv. UHF is mad fun when you're at it
[QUOTE=Chezburger;36168260]So...much...interesting...projects..
Why do I need to make my own Yagi-antenna in order to continue my research program on homebuilt tv transmitters..
In other news, I bought a kit of some Audio/Video modulator, and will build it in in a 19" rack with proper filtering and an amplifier to serve as a transmiter that could cover the whole block with Chezburger-tv. UHF is mad fun when you're at it[/QUOTE]
Have fun getting a license and other stuff to transmit legally :v:.
fuq da polies
No, in all seriousness, my creations generally do not create more then 250 mWatts of power, I am not the big kWatt pirate you'd encounter in the east, merely a lone attic engineer.
I do consider getting my N and F license for operating a Ham radio set though, then gettin' one of these
[IMG]http://www.g3ngd.talktalk.net/ft-101e.jpg[/IMG]
Oh and by the way, if any of you have these fuckers in storage:
[IMG]http://www.electronix.com/images/rf7.jpg[/IMG]
Let me know, I am highly interested in UHF Modulators, especially if there origins are old VCR sets.
Btw, ddrl, didn't you take apart some old set some time ago? I remember a photo with a nicely looking modulator in the pile of rubble that came out of it!
Sorry, you need to Log In to post a reply to this thread.
