[QUOTE=Chezburger;36187274]Aren't you guys a bit scared to work with 230? I mean, I have my first project utilizing 230 planned, and I find it a bit scary with dem shocks and such.
Meanwhile: [B]donate all of your modulators (Will pay good for them)[/B][/QUOTE]
Scared of 230? 30kV is much more fun.
I've already shocked myself multiple times with upto 400V, you soon learn to be careful around high voltage although it's unlikely to kill you unless you do something stupid.
Three simple rules:
Keep one hand away from what your working on. (I.E in pocket)
Use a GFCI / RCD equipped socket when working directly on mains powered equipment.
Don't touch microwave ovens.
Most I worked with it 15 volts, so for this project in particular I nearly planned fuses for the fuses so if the fuses blow, the fuse will take over the fuses job.
Am I taking it too far?
One fuse will do the job.
Oh wait I am creating an unsafe situation by making spare fuses if one goes. lol.
[QUOTE=Chezburger;36187551]Oh wait I am creating an unsafe situation by making spare fuses if one goes. lol.[/QUOTE]
If you are intending to put multiple fuses in parallel you will just get a bigger light show if they do decide to blow.
Which is nice to see, but a complete utter waste of resources.
The oscillator itself draws 100 mA, and I intend to supply it with a ring core transformer, 230 VAC > 2x 15 VDC 2A, so what fuse would be good? 2A super fast (because I don't like to see my 50 euro rf power transistor go up in flames)
btw, does anyone know a circuit to design an UHF amplifier, aswell as a low pass filter for 600 MHz? The interwebs give me jack shit results on that.
Well, you increase the current at which the fuses blow by putting them in parallel.
At such high frequency you should be using microwave techniques such as striplines to build filters instead of passive components.
Kind of off-topic, but I'm wondering:
[QUOTE=Zero-Point;36186724]Can't see shit, cap'n.[/QUOTE]
The pictures are loading fine for at least 120 people - something must be wrong somewhere - are you behind a firewall that blocks port 8083? Please be aware, however, that you are causing page stretch.
Interesting statistic: Of the 122 people in the [i]latest[/i] log file (old logs are archived), 6 people reportedly use an Opera-based browser. The other 116 use a Mozilla-based browser.
At any rate, I want to know how accessible my web server is; please look at the following image and rate:
(Start image)
[img]http://eagle.undo.it:8083/img/cdwelder_06_schemsmall.png[/img]
(End image)
[img]http://www.facepunch.com/fp/ratings/box.png[/img] - You cannot see the above image
[img]http://www.facepunch.com/fp/ratings/rainbow.png[/img] - You can
[QUOTE=Night-Eagle;36190435]Kind of off-topic, but I'm wondering:
The pictures are loading fine for at least 120 people - something must be wrong somewhere - are you behind a firewall that blocks port 8083? Please be aware, however, that you are causing page stretch.
Interesting statistic: Of the 122 people in the [i]latest[/i] log file (old logs are archived), 6 people reportedly use an Opera-based browser. The other 116 use a Mozilla-based browser.
At any rate, I want to know how accessible my web server is; please look at the following image and rate:
(Start image)
[img]http://eagle.undo.it:8083/img/cdwelder_06_schemsmall.png[/img]
(End image)
[img]http://www.facepunch.com/fp/ratings/box.png[/img] - You cannot see the above image
[img]http://www.facepunch.com/fp/ratings/rainbow.png[/img] - You can[/QUOTE]
I can see the images if I copy-paste the address in Firefox's address bar, just not in the Facepunch page for some reason, and all the ports required are open. Madness.
Whoopie guys, heading off to electronics store in a minute, gonna get myself some 75 ohms coax and yet another shitload of coax plugs and then lets see how much this oscillator really radiates.
Fucking Alan KW 520.
I love my PWR meter.
Having a bit of trouble with this LCD I found. I managed to track down the datasheet for it, which is surprising considering a friend gave it to me from a project he did years ago. He said he'd lost all transaction data and couldn't even tell me what site it was
Alright so it's an LCD module with a serial interface. The serial interface looks like it just converts serial to parallel - it could be possible to use the parallel connection but the datasheet doesn't detail it. Infact the datasheet doesn't detail a lot at all!
Here is the datasheet for the serial interface module that piggybacks onto the actual LCD module, converting serial input to parallel input required for the LCD:
[url]http://www.milinst.co.uk/shop/LCDs/pdf/6_201.pdf[/url]
First off, I'd like to connect my arduino to it. I have confirmed the LCD works using the built in self-test feature. I setup a serial interface using arduino's libraries using the correct baud, however I'm unsure what the arduino format is - I assumed 8-N-1, as this is common. It also happens to be the format the board requires:
"Text for display on the LCD must be sent serially at either 2400 or 9600 baud, no parity, 8 bits, 1
stop bit and [b]inverted format.[/b]"
The part that confuses me is the inverted format. I assumed this meant literally inverting the bits before sending serially, however this didn't help either. I've tried using both Serial.print and Serial.write, neither make anything useful happen. Here's the output:
[quote]
[img]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/10518681/Camera/IMAG0067.jpg[/img]
[/quote]
Now, it could be that this LCD was only designed for Parallax BASIC Stamps, but could anyone verify? It would seem rather pointless to limit an LCD like that!
If it comes to it, I may just buy a new LCD - would be a bit of a shame to waste this one though!
So if anyone has any ideas or information of how arduino formats the serial communication or indeed if this LCD can even work without Parallax BASIC Stamps, it would be much appreciated!
Thanks for any help
Three things I can think of:
Your not sending the data correctly
The baud rate is not accurate enough (if I remember correctly the baud rate is derived from the oscillator frequency)
Your output signal is very noisy or otherwise distorted (unlikely)
Also by inverted I assume it could also mean the data is send in the reverse order: so instead of stop bit + bit 1 + bit 2, etc. It could be stop bit + bit 8 + bit 7, etc.
I'd suggest trying it with your PC if you have a serial port available, although you'd need to reduce the voltage.
Also I forgot to mention the RS-232 standard requires a negative voltage swing, your Arduino cannot do this so the output is not RS-232 compliant, perhaps the original device it was meant for has a proper RS-232 communication chip such as the MAX232 which can provide a compliant signal output.
Apparently your board is using an Hitachi HD44780 which is a very common LCD driver with an additional serial to parallel converter chip.
[url]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hitachi_HD44780_LCD_controller[/url]
From the number of connection pins on your LCD it looks like you can probably directly drive the HD44780 and ignore the serial input, of course being parallel this will use many more pins on your controller.
Thanks very much for the information. I'll go away and try reversing the order of bits, though the fact it isn't RS-232 compliant is probably going to make it a futile attempt. I'll let you know if I have any luck!
Side question: If the inversion did refer to 1->0 and 0->1 rather than endianness, would the stop bits be inverted?
Thanks
[QUOTE=ddrl46;36194571][url=http://i.imgur.com/oihJr.jpg][img]http://i.imgur.com/oihJrl.jpg[/img][/url]
[url=http://i.imgur.com/WWUJr.jpg][img]http://i.imgur.com/WWUJrl.jpg[/img][/url]
[url=http://i.imgur.com/nN3eg.jpg][img]http://i.imgur.com/nN3egl.jpg[/img][/url][/QUOTE]
Can I ask what that beautiful thing is?
(I have 0 eletricity/electronics knowledge).
[editline]horses[/editline]
[url=http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nixie_tube]Found it :3[/url]
[QUOTE=Kirth;36196237]Can I ask what that beautiful thing is?
(I have 0 eletricity/electronics knowledge).
[editline]horses[/editline]
[url=http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nixie_tube]Found it :3[/url][/QUOTE]
This is indeed a nixie tube, this one in specific is a Hitachi CD 79.
[QUOTE=DrLuke;36188100]Well, you increase the current at which the fuses blow by putting them in parallel.[/QUOTE]
I've read somewhere that putting fuses in parallel is a bad idea - if one of the legs of the parallel fuses corrode slightly (increasing resistance), the blowout current will drop significantly as most of the current will be going through a single fuse.
I read nixie tubes require a higer voltage than LEDs to operate (which makes sense); but how much would that be?
170V DC. That stuff can fry you easily.
LEDs operate at the 2-4V range.
This one ignites at about 135-140v and will then run down to ~120v.
Well fuck, that's a huge amount of voltage (thought it'd be lower). Speaks bookparts on why they moved to LEDs and fluorecent display.
Some new goodies from Dealextreme I stumbled upon lately.
30-piece pack of multiturn trimmer pots, different values - [B]$5.50[/B]
[url]http://www.dealextreme.com/p/3296w-trim-pot-trimmer-potentiometer-blue-30-piece-pack-133610[/url]
DC 4~40V to DC 1.5~35V Step Down adjustable LM2596 based SMPS complete module, [B]$3.50[/B]
[url]http://www.dealextreme.com/p/dc-4-40v-to-dc-1-5-35v-voltage-step-down-transformer-126108[/url]
They also added banana plugs to go with the 4mm binding posts they started selling for $5-8 per pack of 20, these are [B]$4.90[/B] for a pack of 20
[url]http://www.dealextreme.com/p/loudspeaker-cable-banana-plugs-connectors-red-silver-lantern-20-piece-pack-133073[/url]
and last but not least, 20 piece pack of 1w ~90LM LEDs, they come in white, warm white, blue, yellow, red and possibly green as well. [B]$6.80[/B]
[url]http://www.dealextreme.com/p/1w-6300-6700k-90lm-white-led-light-bulbs-20-piece-pack-133082[/url]
The DIY parts and components section has also been updated with various connectors, mostly audio.
[QUOTE=Kirth;36200690]Well fuck, that's a huge amount of voltage (thought it'd be lower). Speaks bookparts on why they moved to LEDs and fluorecent display.[/QUOTE]
VFDs aren't that low voltage either with their 40 - 70v supplies (depends on size).
Even the ones used in alarm clocks?
btw whats the fucking deal with ceramic capacitors, are the producers too retarded to put the values normally on them, I mean what the fuck am I supposed to do with a ceramic capacitor which value has been worn of by the miraculous forces of time.
Also where do I find sets of capacitors, different values, good quality with the fucking value printed on good enough to actually read it?
[editline]5th June 2012[/editline]
I swore 3 times.
[QUOTE=Chezburger;36208271]btw whats the fucking deal with ceramic capacitors, are the producers too retarded to put the values normally on them, I mean what the fuck am I supposed to do with a ceramic capacitor which value has been worn of by the miraculous forces of time.
Also where do I find sets of capacitors, different values, good quality with the fucking value printed on good enough to actually read it?
[editline]5th June 2012[/editline]
I swore 3 times.[/QUOTE]
[url]http://www.bitsbox.co.uk/compkits.html[/url]
Or you could pick values yourself in the capacitor category, shipping is only a couple of pounds to all of Europe.
If you're in america I can't help you there.
[QUOTE=Kirth;36207972]Even the ones used in alarm clocks?[/QUOTE]
If you are talking about the classic red display, those are LEDs.
Ddrl convinced me to go with the Toolcraft ST80-D instead of the fake but fairly well made Hakko FX-888 on dealextreme, I can't wait!
[img]http://i.imgur.com/N8fyD.png[/img]
Now I just need a bigger desk before it decides to collapse.
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