[QUOTE=Val67;36384887]It appears that NXP is producing an ARM microcontroller in a DIP package: [url]http://www.nxp.com/products/microcontrollers/cortex_m0/lpc1100_x_l/LPC1114FN28.html[/url][/QUOTE]
YES.
Someone needs to make an epic gameboy-like console that any idiot can assemble.
Here's a little tutorial on capacitors if anyone is interested:
[url]http://electrical-workbench.blogspot.co.uk/2012/06/capacitors-tutorial.html[/url]
Hey guys, I recently bought a nixie clock kit from [URL]glowingtech.com[/URL] and put it together. I seem to be having a short circuit somewhere though and I can't seem to find it.
Here's the link if you want to suggest any ways to trouble shoot it or any solutions you might want to offer me. Thanks guys!
Here's the thread: [URL]http://facepunch.com/showthread.php?t=1191819&p=36402927#post36402927[/URL]
I remembered that those parallel port switchboxes have one thing inside them: One massive rotary switch.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/100_2870.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/100_2872.jpg[/IMG]
Three sets of 12 linked contacts. Exactly what I was looking for to switch settings on my chip programmer. These on their own are $50+ but if you find one of the boxes you can essentially get one for free.
By the way, I got to borrow a dremel finally and got to mock up what the finished unit will look like.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/100_2873.jpg[/IMG]
Needs one more rotary switch for VPP settings but everything else is in place.
Sweet Jesus MIPS, how do you machine all that.
inb4 Dremel :v:
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/100_2874.jpg[/IMG]
They don't make the drill press rig anymore but if you have both it and a 70's/80's drill you got yourself a pretty okay drill press.
Thats fantastic, I still have my father's Dremel with its stand. Suppose with the right motors and time you could scrap together a basic X/Y CNC.
Man this thread is starved for content. Here, have some retro porn.
[t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/59112523/retroporn/2012-06-21%2014.26.15.jpg[/t]
[t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/59112523/retroporn/2012-06-21%2014.26.38.jpg[/t]
[t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/59112523/retroporn/2012-06-21%2014.27.04.jpg[/t]
[t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/59112523/retroporn/2012-06-21%2014.27.38.jpg[/t]
[t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/59112523/retroporn/2012-06-21%2014.31.50.jpg[/t]
[t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/59112523/retroporn/2012-06-21%2014.32.03.jpg[/t]
[t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/59112523/retroporn/2012-06-21%2014.32.44.jpg[/t]
[t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/59112523/retroporn/2012-06-21%2014.35.10.jpg[/t]
[t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/59112523/retroporn/2012-06-21%2014.35.51.jpg[/t]
[t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/59112523/retroporn/2012-06-21%2014.43.18.jpg[/t]
Toob glow is purple since the camera picks up IR light
[t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/59112523/retroporn/2012-06-21%2014.43.45.jpg[/t]
[t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/59112523/retroporn/2012-06-21%2014.43.56.jpg[/t]
Trace rotation and x-position is off
[t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/59112523/retroporn/2012-06-21%2014.45.07.jpg[/t]
[t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/59112523/retroporn/2012-06-21%2015.05.54.jpg[/t]
X-position and trace length adjusted to fit and align to the scale, trace rotation wasn't adjustable so I just rotated the crt.
[t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/59112523/retroporn/2012-06-21%2022.26.25.jpg[/t]
This now has a place on my shelf, though I'll probably not use it I'd rather have it take up my abundant shelf space than my limited drawer space.
If anyone's interested in it more or would like to take it off my hands for a small sum plus shipping, let me know.
[QUOTE=chipset;36430384]Man this thread is starved for content. Here, have some retro porn.
-snip-
Trace rotation and x-position is off
This now has a place on my shelf, though I'll probably not use it I'd rather have it take up my abundant shelf space than my limited drawer space.
If anyone's interested in it more or would like to take it off my hands for a small sum plus shipping, let me know.[/QUOTE]
Ah, gotta love the 30KHz bandwidth!
Posted mine before but here's mine:
[img]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/286964/CRTScope/Photo0098.jpg[/img]
And a spare "card"
[img]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/286964/CRTScope/Photo0097.jpg[/img]
Keep meaning to get round to it, but it desperately needs a recap.
Ah, Telequipment. Reminds me of the old bond films. Dr. No.
My project features a temperature sensors that outputs a voltage to indicate a temperature. If it is 0 degrees it will say 424 millivolts. So I am trying to get that reading on an arduino using AREF of 1.1 volts.
It gives me low readings compared to a multimeter, is there a default resistor on analog pins?
[QUOTE=duno;36445068]My project features a temperature sensors that outputs a voltage to indicate a temperature. If it is 0 degrees it will say 424 millivolts. So I am trying to get that reading on an arduino using AREF of 1.1 volts.
It gives me low readings compared to a multimeter, is there a default resistor on analog pins?[/QUOTE]
The reading will not be perfect due to the ADC resolution, with a 1.1V reference that will give you a maximum resolution of 1.08mV, although I assume your problem is a bit worse than that.
What sensor are you using, what type of multimeter and please provide schematic.
[QUOTE=Chryseus;36446826]The reading will not be perfect due to the ADC resolution, with a 1.1V reference that will give you a maximum resolution of 1.08mV, although I assume your problem is a bit worse than that.
What sensor are you using, what type of multimeter and please provide schematic.[/QUOTE]
It's an [URL="http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/snis119c/snis119c.pdf"]LM60 Temperature sensor[/URL], Vs connected to 5v, ground to ground, and Vout to an analog pin. My multimeter reads room temperature so there is no fault with it but my arduino says its around 2 degrees celsius.
[QUOTE=duno;36457881]It's an [URL="http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/snis119c/snis119c.pdf"]LM60 Temperature sensor[/URL], Vs connected to 5v, ground to ground, and Vout to an analog pin. My multimeter reads room temperature so there is no fault with it but my arduino says its around 2 degrees celsius.[/QUOTE]
How about you use your multimeter to measure the voltage on the output of the LM60 to see if it's actually working?
[QUOTE=duno;36457881]It's an [URL="http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/snis119c/snis119c.pdf"]LM60 Temperature sensor[/URL], Vs connected to 5v, ground to ground, and Vout to an analog pin. My multimeter reads room temperature so there is no fault with it but my arduino says its around 2 degrees celsius.[/QUOTE]
Are you sure you're reading the ADC data correctly, a room temperature of 25c should read as roughly 537 (580mV / 1.08mV).
The only other thing I can think of is voltage drop due to the input impedance, I would suggest adding a simple op-amp buffer.
[url]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Operational_amplifier_applications#Voltage_follower_.28Unity_Buffer_Amplifier.29[/url]
[img]http://i48.tinypic.com/vxjk2d.png[/img]
[img]http://i45.tinypic.com/14jyrmw.png[/img]
That isn't the problem
[QUOTE=DrLuke;36460675]
That isn't the problem[/QUOTE]
Then I'll assume he's reading the data wrongly, most likely by thinking ADC value = voltage.
Also double check you're using the 1.1V reference.
Please send in the next patient DrLuke.
Sunny for two whole days. These should be ready for reprogramming now.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/Computer%20related/100_2879.jpg[/IMG]
[QUOTE=MIPS;36491719]Sunny for two whole days. These should be ready for reprogramming now.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/Computer%20related/100_2879.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]
According to some article I read, it could take as long as 3 weeks to completely erase an EPROM with direct sun exposure, which says something about the UV lamps that take 20 minutes to do the same.
Just take them to the solarium
[QUOTE=MIPS;36491719]Sunny for two whole days. These should be ready for reprogramming now.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/Computer%20related/100_2879.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]
You'd think that you of all people would have a UV lamp.
[QUOTE=Zero-Point;36492621]According to some article I read, it could take as long as 3 weeks to completely erase an EPROM with direct sun exposure, which says something about the UV lamps that take 20 minutes to do the same.[/QUOTE]
I was told by the guys on the vintage Computer Forum that two days of good direct sunlight was all you needed.
Right now I'm pulling my hair out over a damn speed transducer. Pull the equipment its attached to out and test the thing and it reads fine (+5V obstructed and +3V when unobstructed) but after I reinstall everything and test it it only dips down to +4.82v. What the fuck?
Maybe a short or something
Why are there holes in the middle of those chips?
It's a window to let in UV light for erasure.
[QUOTE=MIPS;36505900]I was told by the guys on the vintage Computer Forum that two days of good direct sunlight was all you needed.
Right now I'm pulling my hair out over a damn speed transducer. Pull the equipment its attached to out and test the thing and it reads fine (+5V obstructed and +3V when unobstructed) but after I reinstall everything and test it it only dips down to +4.82v. What the fuck?[/QUOTE]
From Wikipedia:
[quote]Erasure of the EPROM begins to occur with wavelengths shorter than 400 nm. Exposure time for sunlight of 1 week or 3 years for room fluorescent lighting may cause erasure. The recommended erasure procedure is exposure to UV light at 253.7 nm of at least 15 W-sec/cm2 for 20 to 30 minutes, with the lamp at a distance of about 2.5 cm.[/quote]
I've checked ebay, and some eraser go for under 20€.
or you could just buy some UV LEDs and light them up?
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