A fresh canvas
[img]http://i53.tinypic.com/35k7vit.png[/img]
I was needing some high voltage for something, and I couldent find my brick sized HV transformer (how the fuck did I misplace this)
So as a quick and dirty soloution I ripped a flyback transformer out of an old CRT
Now to figure out the pinout of this
[QUOTE=DrLuke;34728934]A fresh canvas
[img]http://i53.tinypic.com/35k7vit.png[/img][/QUOTE]
Your puny canvasses are nothing compared to my sheets of uncut pcb
Oh do you mean this?
[IMG]http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1C-2266451w345.jpg[/IMG]
Just finished shopping, bought:
100 UV LEDs
Tweezers set from dealextreme
Alcohol dispenser
Small flux container bottle
Solid rosin flux (for ultra cheap homebrew flux)
Samsung ML-1865 mono laser printer
Pack of ten 0.8mm drill bits
1L of isopropanol
500gr of sodium metasilicate pentahydrate
1kg of ferric chloride hexahydrate
two 100ml cans of positive spray photoresist
five single sided copper clad boards
20m roll of 90gsm tracing paper
All for £115, pretty good I think.
Time to get making them PCBs :-D
WIP
[img]http://i52.tinypic.com/3531i4p.png[/img]
What's on the blue board? Is that an Analog Devices' IC?
[QUOTE=LoneWolf_Recon;34749157]What's on the blue board? Is that an Analog Devices' IC?[/QUOTE]
DDS func gen.
Anyone know where I can get a good hobbyist Smartcard Reader/Writer, all I find a commercial ones which I'm afraid won't give me full access to the serial interface.
[QUOTE=LoneWolf_Recon;34749157]What's on the blue board? Is that an Analog Devices' IC?[/QUOTE]
It's a board for the AD9850, it can generate sinewaves from 0 to 125 MHz with a precision of 0.0291 Hz/lsb.
[editline]18th February 2012[/editline]
[QUOTE=TVC;34753291]Anyone know where I can get a good hobbyist Smartcard Reader/Writer, all I find a commercial ones which I'm afraid won't give me full access to the serial interface.[/QUOTE]
Sparkfun carries one, but of course it's pretty expensive.
After much thinking and testing I've come to the conclusion that the strange step in my oscillator is due to the rather low slew rate of about 8us per V, add the parasitic effects of my breadboard to that and it's going to be much worse.
Now I just need a BiJFET or JFET op-amp with a fast slew rate to verify I'm right.
Wouldn't a BiCMOS op-amp work? Or is it just not as fast as a BiJFET?
POWER..UNLIMITED POWERRRR:
[img_thumb]https://sites.google.com/site/lonewolfscircuits/sitefiles/TeleTalk2_Powerup_1.JPG[/img_thumb]
[img_thumb]https://sites.google.com/site/lonewolfscircuits/sitefiles/TeleTalk2_Powerup_3.JPG[/img_thumb]
It was a pain in the butt to find that panel mount DC jack...
I've got a full box of 2x110V / 2x12V Transformers, I should build myself a rail to rail PSU.
It's been a week since i ordered on Sparkfun and the order is still on «Invoice Printed», Is it normal that it's this long ?
You should contact them I guess
[QUOTE=LoneWolf_Recon;34777361]Wouldn't a BiCMOS op-amp work? Or is it just not as fast as a BiJFET?
POWER..UNLIMITED POWERRRR:
It was a pain in the butt to find that panel mount DC jack...[/QUOTE]
Yes BiCMOS would work as well but as far as I'm aware they are not as common as BiJFET, JFET or CMOS, I might just be talking out of my ass however.
Anyway
What is the battery for ?
That's where the power comes from duh
[QUOTE=DrLuke;34784784]That's where the power comes from duh[/QUOTE]
Then what is the DC jack for ? :v:
[QUOTE=Chryseus;34784850]Then what is the DC jack for ? :v:[/QUOTE]
That's the overdrive injector for more power :v:
If in the case I wanted a standalone or mobile transmitter. The theoretical current draw from the circuit will be bout 90mA in which the battery wont last more than two hours.. I've finished half of the overall transmitter board but I think I may have broken the tuning cap by turning it too much.. :/
Oh and Chryseus, would this work? Its slew is averaging bout 4uS, or is that still too slow?
[URL="http://www.ti.com/product/tlc272"]http://www.ti.com/product/tlc272[/URL]
What is the easiest way to cut square holes in project boxes?
I bought a metal box for my chip programmer and need to make one large square opening for the TEXTOOL and PLCC sockets to stick through but I can't think of a way to cleanly cut the hole. I used a Dremel with plastic boxes in the past and the finished project looked like shit.
Uh. Try drilling holes at the corners, then connect the holes with the Dremel (I think this might be the wrong tool for the job :\). Clean up the edges with a file. Make the hole smaller than you need it, since you'll probably have to remove a lot of material with the file.
A square rule, mark the lines with a sharpie(Or a white marker for that matter), and cut four holes at the corners. Then take your Dremel and cut along the lines. If its a plastic project box, I recommend hand sanding to smooth it out..The Dremel's been too powerful on plastics(For me atleast) :/
EDIT:
You could adapt and follow this Tut:
[URL="http://www.robotroom.com/WaterSoftenerMonitor2.html"]http://www.robotroom.com/WaterSoftenerMonitor2.html[/URL]
[QUOTE=MIPS;34796781]What is the easiest way to cut square holes in project boxes?
I bought a metal box for my chip programmer and need to make one large square opening for the TEXTOOL and PLCC sockets to stick through but I can't think of a way to cleanly cut the hole. I used a Dremel with plastic boxes in the past and the finished project looked like shit.[/QUOTE]
Might have to get a nibbler, but be warned, those things are a pain in the ass. Prepare for blisters.
[url]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nibbler[/url]
Basically as everyone's already suggested, do the rough work with a drill and dremel and finish up with some tiny files.
Dremels tend to get a little loose on plastic, they're pretty powerful, they do metal nicely as long as you don't rush and not trying to get the most out of your cutting discs (it suck's cause they're expensive)
[QUOTE=SubbyV-2;34800259]Dremels tend to get a little loose on plastic, they're pretty powerful, they do metal nicely as long as you don't rush and not trying to get the most out of your cutting discs (it suck's cause they're expensive)[/QUOTE]
I don't buy Dremel brand accesories, yeah the quality difference is quite noticeable but I find the savings more than make up for it.
If cutting a piece of metal takes two dremel cutting wheels and 6 cheap-ass ones, and the cheap ass ones cost 1/4 of the dremel wheels, it equals quite a bit of money saved in the long term, only downside is changing the damn things is quite annoying.
Also cutting plastic isn't a problem unless you cheaped out and got a rotoraty tool without variable speed. I got a Dremel 4000 so I just turn the revs down to about 5k-10k and use a pistol grip handle for extra control, as well as using both hands on the dremel and using a vice to hold whatever I'm cutting.
I think my dremel is broken, it randomly changes it's RPM every few seconds
[QUOTE=LoneWolf_Recon;34795048]Oh and Chryseus, would this work? Its slew is averaging bout 4uS, or is that still too slow?
[URL="http://www.ti.com/product/tlc272"]http://www.ti.com/product/tlc272[/URL][/QUOTE]
I think you mean 4V per μs, but yes that would probably do the job.
Although I'd go for something a bit faster such as the BiFET THS4631 which has a slew rate of 1000V per μs, probably overkill but meh.
Toooob
[img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/fVN5W.jpg[/img_thumb]
[img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/yy4Ab.jpg[/img_thumb]
Yes I know my sensor is dirty, I found out after I took these pictures
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