[QUOTE=No_Excuses;44849852]I've been curious lately as to why Arduino's are so massively popular. There's nothing really unique about them is there? Except for maybe the price now that they're so popular.[/QUOTE]
The entry level is almost zero, so everybody can use it as a stepping stone and get their feet wet. After that every sane person should move on to either pure AVR or other microcontrollers though.
[QUOTE=No_Excuses;44849852]I've been curious lately as to why Arduino's are so massively popular. There's nothing really unique about them is there? Except for maybe the price now that they're so popular.[/QUOTE]
I think marketing has a bit of the blame for it. When I started out, Arduino was the only one I'd heard of (no idea where from), so it was what I went for. Then there's also the popularity, there are a lot of libraries and documentation on how to do cool stuff with them.
[QUOTE=Tamschi;44849605]I wonder if we'd feel anything if he had succeeded with his power distribution scheme.
Probably not since the amount necessary for lighting up a fluorescent light is less than that... though it's definitely possible to feel the field of power lines where that occurs, under certain circumstances.
Hm...[/QUOTE]
Im actually very glad he didn't
If it did go that way, the amount of EMF and so on around -everywhere- would make mobile phones and any sensitive electronic device a nightmare to design and become very heavy due to shielding issues.
Could you imagine every metal object in your house having a small or not so small voltage across it?
Modern electronics would be so much more expensive and heavy i would think.
On another topic. Go around all your local companies and just walk in casually, say somthing about how your a hobbiest and your looking for electronics scrap and that you know companies often pay to despose and your happy to get rid of it for them. I just grabbed a huge box of stuff like servo and motor controllers from a few companies with high end heatsinks with the nice clips on them and so on.
Its really worth it.
DSEI 30-06A - 37A 600V 35ns Diode - 12 pcs
IXSH 35N100A - 1000v 75A IGBT - 1pcs
IXSH 40N60B - 600v 75A IGBT - 6pcs
Not bad.... along with a load of other stuff and some even more stuff in other controllers.
[QUOTE=nuttyboffin;44850051]Im actually very glad he didn't
If it did go that way, the amount of EMF and so on around -everywhere- would make mobile phones and any sensitive electronic device a nightmare to design and become very heavy due to shielding issues.
Could you imagine every metal object in your house having a small or not so small voltage across it?
Modern electronics would be so much more expensive and heavy i would think.
On another topic. Go around all your local companies and just walk in casually, say somthing about how your a hobbiest and your looking for electronics scrap and that you know companies often pay to despose and your happy to get rid of it for them. I just grabbed a huge box of stuff like servo and motor controllers from a few companies with high end heatsinks with the nice clips on them and so on.
Its really worth it.
DSEI 30-06A - 37A 600V 35ns Diode - 12 pcs
IXSH 35N100A - 1000v 75A IGBT - 1pcs
IXSH 40N60B - 600v 75A IGBT - 6pcs
Not bad.... along with a load of other stuff and some even more stuff in other controllers.[/QUOTE]
I got all kinds of circuit boards from the HVAC place I work at, everything from ice machine boards (loads of LEDs/relays on those), thermostats (several of which have re-usable microcontrollers, including some ATMegas from old Honeywell thermostats), out-door unit boards (not much in these besides relays, but sometimes you get extra stuff), damper controls (stepper motors/driver boards), furnace boards (fly-backs (sometimes), various ICs, LEDs, relays), and of course you get LOADS of discrete components out of them as well.
[QUOTE=nuttyboffin;44848053]Saaaayyyyy Would you know anything about driving such large IGBTs?[/QUOTE]
We didn't really look much at the gate drivers, they didn't look too complex either. I did design a pretty rad snubber circuit for my inverter legs though. (Around 99.1% efficiency of the system in simulated worst case values).
[QUOTE=BuG;44852817]We didn't really look much at the gate drivers, they didn't look too complex either. I did design a pretty rad snubber circuit for my inverter legs though. (Around 99.1% efficiency of the system in simulated worst case values).[/QUOTE]
hmmm, whats your steam username? i wouldn't mind talking to you :3
[QUOTE=nuttyboffin;44853338]hmmm, whats your steam username? i wouldn't mind talking to you :3[/QUOTE]
I added the account you've linked to your facepunch account. My name is Raxi.
I won't have that much time before friday, since my last exam is then. But feel free to contact me if I'm online.
[QUOTE=BuG;44854800]I added the account you've linked to your facepunch account. My name is Raxi.
I won't have that much time before friday, since my last exam is then. But feel free to contact me if I'm online.[/QUOTE]
Thats not my account, oops, and i can't find Raxi it seems. Try adding nuttyboffin.
Ok I struck upon this idea while chowing down me waffles for afternoon tea but had only a faint idea how to do it. I know Facepunch has a few wizards so that's why I made this the first place to get advice from.
I've got this [URL="http://fiio.com.cn/products/index.aspx?ID=100000038781911"]headphone amplifier[/URL] that runs on a BL-5B. The battery is charged by a micro-usb plugged into the side of the amp. My problem is that for the amp to be used, I can't be charging the battery with micro-USB plugged in the side or else my ears get assaulted with static.
I'm never actually gonna use it as a portable amp, so I wondered- Is it possible to forget the battery and wire up a riggo-jiggo mabobby to take power straight from a USB cable and feed it straight to those little prongs(?) where the battery would usually go?
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/111996868/2014/IMAG0198.jpg[/t]
I'm not too fond of [I]completely[/I] butchering the thing open and messing with everything, that pic is just the back panel removed. What little I know about electricity comes from a few years of building model railways. I'm an obsessive hoarder of scrap and there's a few electronics stores in town so there shouldn't be an issue with getting parts.
Have you tried just having the Micro USB plugged in, without the battery?
One of the first things I tried, device simply doesn't turn on that way.
[QUOTE=Tamschi;44849605]I wonder if we'd feel anything if he had succeeded with his power distribution scheme.
Probably not since the amount necessary for lighting up a fluorescent light is less than that... though it's definitely possible to feel the field of power lines where that occurs, under certain circumstances.
Hm...[/QUOTE]
Tesla said that when he was in presence of Tesla coil that he felt sense of well being, but this is tesla. Anything electric would make him happy :)
Haha yes, I imagine EMF would be a problem, if would use tesla coil for global power distribution.. but I still would like him see succeed.
Imagine quad copter flying forever because he got power from air :)
Nevermind, somebody did already similiar stuff:
[video=youtube;ee4Ab3w2hl8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ee4Ab3w2hl8[/video]
The hybrid-pi model makes BJT analysis so much easier than treating it as a current amplifier.
[img]http://i.stack.imgur.com/128ao.png[/img]
I'm thinking of DIYing an RC plane but I'm not sure what to buy. It does seem that [URL="http://www.dx.com/p/a1504-2700kv-brushless-motor-10a-bec-2-5g-steering-servo-3-4-1-4-1e-motor-shaft-set-45754#.U33V9Pl_t8E"]DX sells kits[/URL] with what I think all the components you'll need to controll the plane(including some kind of regulator?).
I got a tranceiver set at home already and a few ATtiny's to put into the plane. I'm just a bit clueless as if it's a good idea to controll the plane with an arduino or to just buy a remotr controll + receiver.
[editline]22nd May 2014[/editline]
Obviously a controller set is more fit for it, but if I make one myself I can add some fancy stuff and sensors so the plane can do some autonomous flying (mostly just circling around if it loses signal)
[QUOTE=scratch (nl);44876138]I'm thinking of DIYing an RC plane but I'm not sure what to buy. It does seem that [URL="http://www.dx.com/p/a1504-2700kv-brushless-motor-10a-bec-2-5g-steering-servo-3-4-1-4-1e-motor-shaft-set-45754#.U33V9Pl_t8E"]DX sells kits[/URL] with what I think all the components you'll need to controll the plane(including some kind of regulator?).
I got a tranceiver set at home already and a few ATtiny's to put into the plane. I'm just a bit clueless as if it's a good idea to controll the plane with an arduino or to just buy a remotr controll + receiver.
[editline]22nd May 2014[/editline]
Obviously a controller set is more fit for it, but if I make one myself I can add some fancy stuff and sensors so the plane can do some autonomous flying (mostly just circling around if it loses signal)[/QUOTE]
You say you have a transceiver set but you talk about controlling it with an arduino, not sure what you mean. For RC by far the best option is to get a set like this [url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-4G-FS-CT6B-6CH-Radio-Model-RC-Transmitter-Receiver-/130490549659?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e61d7c59b[/url] that's already configured to worktogether and has several pwm outputs. The little reviever goes in the plane and into it you plug the three pin connectors from those things in the DX link you posted, the two servos and the motor controller.
It's basically all plug and play, leaving you to then have fun with the actual plane build.
DIYing the radio probably isn't a good idea unless you know what you're doing. Starting with the traditional transmitter/receiver set lets you then learn and modify from that.
yeah, I might go with all flight electronics done and perhaps add a 2nd system onto the plane using and arduino to log data. and I guess one servo is for lift, the other for roll (and perhaps a third for yaw?), I don't remember the names of the controll surfaces :v:
Aileron, Elevator, Rutter
Aslo for a transmitter, I recommend spending slightly more and getting the flysky 9x. Very good radio for the price with a ton of aftermarket support and all sort of custom firmware to be flashed.
[QUOTE=Tw34k;44879238]Aileron, Elevator, Rutter
Aslo for a transmitter, I recommend spending slightly more and getting the flysky 9x. Very good radio for the price with a ton of aftermarket support and all sort of custom firmware to be flashed.[/QUOTE]
don't you mean the turnigy 9x by any chance? I only get results on that.
[QUOTE=scratch (nl);44879433]don't you mean the turnigy 9x by any chance? I only get results on that.[/QUOTE]
Its the same thing, the turnigy one is the hobbyking brand copy.
There are a few copies actually, they are all based off of an old JR radio IIRC.
Just make sure you don't get the new turnigy 9x R. It's kind of a pile in my opinion.
[url]http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1623267[/url]
[url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/110919526329?lpid=82[/url]
I repair electronics and PC's and all that good stuff for a living. I got this fancy, remote controlled oscillating fan from a customer that didn't work straight from the box. Decided to open it up and check it out:
[thumb]http://i.imgur.com/b7ztaPh.jpg[/thumb]
That's the pad where the live wire runs from the board to the motor. Somehow it's completely electrically isolated from trace running into it, from the left. I didn't believe my multimeter at first but it was true. I scraped some copper off the trace and ran the wire back through the bottom and it works fine now.
[QUOTE=No_Excuses;44886452]I repair electronics and PC's and all that good stuff for a living. I got this fancy, remote controlled oscillating fan from a customer that didn't work straight from the box. Decided to open it up and check it out:
[thumb]http://i.imgur.com/b7ztaPh.jpg[/thumb]
That's the pad where the live wire runs from the board to the motor. Somehow it's completely electrically isolated from trace running into it, from the left. I didn't believe my multimeter at first but it was true. I scraped some copper off the trace and ran the wire back through the bottom and it works fine now.[/QUOTE]
It happens, I've had intermittent solder joints without any visible signs of damage, those you can at least find by poking the board but a fully open joint can be an absolute nightmare.
I often just reflow the entire thing with a little lead solder if it's a small board, fuck shitty lead-free solder.
[QUOTE=Chryseus;44886720]It happens, I've had intermittent solder joints without any visible signs of damage, those you can at least find by poking the board but a fully open joint can be an absolute nightmare.
I often just reflow the entire thing with a little lead solder if it's a small board, fuck shitty lead-free solder.[/QUOTE]
The behaviour was odd though. I reflowed it initially and it didn't make a difference. It's like the trace wasn't even contacting the pad. And I second the lead free solder part. Such a pain in the ass.
A friend of mine bought me a new roll of solder one time because he had been using mine a lot to learn/practice his skills at my house. This was a few years ago now.
It was lead free.
I still haven't let him live it down to this day as the still practically untouched roll sits on my bench.
Is anyone working with PLC's ? I'm working with ABB 800xa / ABB ac450 and Siemens PCS7. I'd have some questions. Or if you would like to know something.
So I got two different things working at the same time instead of just having standalone elements and I also found an alternative to that piece of shit software I kept complaining about!
[vid]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S_RGzout-Es[/vid]
I'm designing a product and I accidental found a way to quickly add a number of test points to a breadboard circuit. Dressmaking pins! (No I don't make dresses... :v:) They're even colour coded.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/286964/2014-05-25%2010.44.27.jpg[/t]
I might get some thinner ones though.
Hello, what is this notation on PCB '01u', is this 1uF or 0.1uF? For green capacitor
[QUOTE=HeatPipe;44903448]Hello, what is this notation on PCB '01u', is this 1uF or 0.1uF? For green capacitor[/QUOTE]
I would say 0.1u, but if you're really unsure you can always stick it in a 555 timer circuit and measure the frequency.
[QUOTE=Chryseus;44904505]I would say 0.1u, but if you're really unsure you can always stick it in a 555 timer circuit and measure the frequency.[/QUOTE]
The PCB is in digital form (.pcb file), and I don't remember site I got it from. Well I can always just change it if it doesn't work :)
[QUOTE=HeatPipe;44906494]The PCB is in digital form (.pcb file), and I don't remember site I got it from. Well I can always just change it if it doesn't work :)[/QUOTE]
Oh PCB I though you was on about a component, that will teach me for not reading.
Depending on what the cap is used for it may not cause any harm at all.
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