Electrical Engineering V2 - Developers

[QUOTE=RoflKawpter;45867302]It works. Really. Why the hell would that pin out diagram be different? D:[/QUOTE] It's not that it's different, it's just that in the arduino IDE pins are refferred to by their digital or analog number, not their actual number on the chip. So D3 is pin 3, D7 is pin 7 and so on.

[QUOTE=Zero-Point;45867418]So I was asked to look at a tablet for a friend of mine, said it wouldn't charge by USB. Took it apart and the USB connector had somehow sheared clean off of its spot, no pins or traces damaged or broken at all, how the fuck? Anyway so I re-soldered the thing back on and- I'm not sure of the industry term for this package, but the mini-USB SMD connectors, with the REALLY short and tiny itty bitty little pins? Pain in the ass to do with a Radioshack soldering station, lemme tell ya. :v:[/QUOTE] [I]Mini[/I]-USB? There's a tablet that uses mini-USB?

[QUOTE=Zero-Point;45867418]So I was asked to look at a tablet for a friend of mine, said it wouldn't charge by USB. Took it apart and the USB connector had somehow sheared clean off of its spot, no pins or traces damaged or broken at all, how the fuck? Anyway so I re-soldered the thing back on and- I'm not sure of the industry term for this package, but the mini-USB SMD connectors, with the REALLY short and tiny itty bitty little pins? Pain in the ass to do with a Radioshack soldering station, lemme tell ya. :v:[/QUOTE] Apply flux. And then some more flux.

[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;45868845][I]Mini[/I]-USB? There's a tablet that uses mini-USB?[/QUOTE] It's one of those cheap Chinese tablets, I think. Only name on the thing is "ZEKI". [editline]2nd September 2014[/editline] [QUOTE=DrDevil;45868938]Apply flux. And then some more flux.[/QUOTE] Don't think that would've helped much, the pins were probably .25mm apart, if not smaller.

[QUOTE=Zero-Point;45868959]It's one of those cheap Chinese tablets, I think. Only name on the thing is "ZEKI". [editline]2nd September 2014[/editline] Don't think that would've helped much, the pins were probably .25mm apart, if not smaller.[/QUOTE] Flux helps a lot in that situation. It makes the solder magically flow to the pins.

[QUOTE=DrDevil;45764317]Since everyone was playing with high powered LEDs here, I thought I'd also give this whole thing a shot, although my approach was a little bit different: [t]http://i.imgur.com/g6z9lAV.jpg[/t] More: [url]http://imgur.com/a/IZVbM[/url][/QUOTE] Interessting, i made some too. But cant find them anymore, will post it soon. Today i made some highspeed videos -> gif of my "BURNING EVERYHING WITH A SIZE OF A PENNY!!11" device.[I] Acutually a flyback transformer, 30V 7A powersupply and ZVS circuit[/I] [T]http://s14.directupload.net/images/140902/jamg3dvs.gif[/T] [T]http://s7.directupload.net/images/140902/wljf5vt6.gif[/T] Edit: I made something a while a ago, but havent reported about it. Ha... Ok there it is, i got an old Speedster 3 shit ps2 wheel with shitty plastic pedals. After connecting it to PC with an 5€ adaptor, the pedals were digital signal, not analog. totally useless Ok, so i looked around the internet. i saw that arduino leonardo can send HID signals directly. Awesome, im a arduino fan since long time but havent seen this before. Bought 2 of them ( because i need more than 7 Analog pins, and want it more modular, and i didnt know about the arduino micro :( ) i replaced the control board of the wheel with the arduino, coding was no problem done in an hour. works [T]http://s14.directupload.net/images/140902/nbtyn7v5.jpg[/T] [T]http://s1.directupload.net/images/140902/kkst3rqa.jpg[/T] But the pedals was still butthurt, so i bought electrical pedals used in cars ( drive by wire ) and made some quick tests about the pinout.. its just 2 potentiometers inside. Built some small wood frame thats stable enough to play euro truck simulator multiplayer with all that russians learning how to drive a truck. Done, works... Fine.. [T]http://s14.directupload.net/images/140902/cvd5urlp.jpg[/T] [T]http://s1.directupload.net/images/140902/perjwv9d.jpg[/T] ok Uhh what about a gear lever? hmm g27 has such a small nipple for switching, and its plastic ... alll plastic... I go to my chamber to find some old speakers i can use (the wood housing, because i was too lazy to make one) yay found an old heco subwoofer that broke. Cut some holes in it and though about the mechanism i use for switching gears.. first idea was 7 pushbuttons.. wah no too much work. Hmm, what about hall effect sensors.. no was not an option..... So i thought about somethng i made in gmod, it reads 2 angles from X and Y axis.. So, why not use this? :D After some woodworking ive done it, it looks very unstable.. It would fit into russian safety standards, but does not win a design award. what ever, the point is that i works. few lines of code later, ive done it. [T]http://s1.directupload.net/images/140902/tq9hpbke.jpg[/T] [T]http://s14.directupload.net/images/140902/52fmlw2e.jpg[/T] Next thing was the switching pattern. made one out of wood, wobble wobble.. nothing stable, so i dont want it.. I remember that i bought a laser cut piece from cutworks.de made out of steel. was pretty accurate, fast shipped and cheap. cool made a model in sketchup, uploaded, and checked price.. 16€ wasnt that expensive.. bought it 15 days later, it arrived and fit perfectly awesome. just some paint and its done. [T]http://s7.directupload.net/images/140902/n55qxf6j.jpg[/T] [T]http://s1.directupload.net/images/140902/tndqotep.jpg[/T] Now i know, that i can use different switching patterns made of steel for different gearboxes, like automatic, 9 gear or 12 gear (ets2 haha) Last thing i wanted to do is a panel with all buttons needed for games like hazard lights, light mode, start engine (with key), screen wiper etc.... So i ordered some buttons from china, its made out of metal, it looks good and it has led lightning. Wow, after another 20 days it arrived.. what the fuck, is it made for childrens? or does chinese people have very small hands.. could be some playmobile shit. not even my small finger can press it.. wah damn wasted 20€... [T]http://s1.directupload.net/images/140902/cb33y63a.jpg[/T] Made i finish it someday with some real man buttons, BIG ASS BUTTONS.

[QUOTE=DrDevil;45869132]Flux helps a lot in that situation. It makes the solder magically flow to the pins.[/QUOTE] Nah dude, you're not getting it: They were literally so tiny I could barely put a fine-tipped iron on them, and the slightest dab of solder would flow across 2-3 pins at a time.

[QUOTE=Zero-Point;45873422]Nah dude, you're not getting it: They were literally so tiny I could barely put a fine-tipped iron on them, and the slightest dab of solder would flow across 2-3 pins at a time.[/QUOTE] I've seen people do smaller pin pitches, the trick is to get one of the soldering irons with a near pin like tip along with 0.25mm solder. Another thing that helps is bluetack and a steady hand.

Even with a wide tip, applying flux and just touching the pins with a tinned soldering iron tip will probably work.

[QUOTE=gamerpaddy;45869363]Interessting, i made some too. But cant find them anymore, will post it soon. Today i made some highspeed videos -> gif of my "BURNING EVERYHING WITH A SIZE OF A PENNY!!11" device.[I] Acutually a flyback transformer, 30V 7A powersupply and ZVS circuit[/I] [T]http://s14.directupload.net/images/140902/jamg3dvs.gif[/T] [T]http://s7.directupload.net/images/140902/wljf5vt6.gif[/T] Edit: I made something a while a ago, but havent reported about it. Ha... Ok there it is, i got an old Speedster 3 shit ps2 wheel with shitty plastic pedals. After connecting it to PC with an 5€ adaptor, the pedals were digital signal, not analog. totally useless Ok, so i looked around the internet. i saw that arduino leonardo can send HID signals directly. Awesome, im a arduino fan since long time but havent seen this before. Bought 2 of them ( because i need more than 7 Analog pins, and want it more modular, and i didnt know about the arduino micro :( ) i replaced the control board of the wheel with the arduino, coding was no problem done in an hour. works [T]http://s14.directupload.net/images/140902/nbtyn7v5.jpg[/T] [T]http://s1.directupload.net/images/140902/kkst3rqa.jpg[/T] But the pedals was still butthurt, so i bought electrical pedals used in cars ( drive by wire ) and made some quick tests about the pinout.. its just 2 potentiometers inside. Built some small wood frame thats stable enough to play euro truck simulator multiplayer with all that russians learning how to drive a truck. Done, works... Fine.. [T]http://s14.directupload.net/images/140902/cvd5urlp.jpg[/T] [T]http://s1.directupload.net/images/140902/perjwv9d.jpg[/T] ok Uhh what about a gear lever? hmm g27 has such a small nipple for switching, and its plastic ... alll plastic... I go to my chamber to find some old speakers i can use (the wood housing, because i was too lazy to make one) yay found an old heco subwoofer that broke. Cut some holes in it and though about the mechanism i use for switching gears.. first idea was 7 pushbuttons.. wah no too much work. Hmm, what about hall effect sensors.. no was not an option..... So i thought about somethng i made in gmod, it reads 2 angles from X and Y axis.. So, why not use this? :D After some woodworking ive done it, it looks very unstable.. It would fit into russian safety standards, but does not win a design award. what ever, the point is that i works. few lines of code later, ive done it. [T]http://s1.directupload.net/images/140902/tq9hpbke.jpg[/T] [T]http://s14.directupload.net/images/140902/52fmlw2e.jpg[/T] Next thing was the switching pattern. made one out of wood, wobble wobble.. nothing stable, so i dont want it.. I remember that i bought a laser cut piece from cutworks.de made out of steel. was pretty accurate, fast shipped and cheap. cool made a model in sketchup, uploaded, and checked price.. 16€ wasnt that expensive.. bought it 15 days later, it arrived and fit perfectly awesome. just some paint and its done. [T]http://s7.directupload.net/images/140902/n55qxf6j.jpg[/T] [T]http://s1.directupload.net/images/140902/tndqotep.jpg[/T] Now i know, that i can use different switching patterns made of steel for different gearboxes, like automatic, 9 gear or 12 gear (ets2 haha) Last thing i wanted to do is a panel with all buttons needed for games like hazard lights, light mode, start engine (with key), screen wiper etc.... So i ordered some buttons from china, its made out of metal, it looks good and it has led lightning. Wow, after another 20 days it arrived.. what the fuck, is it made for childrens? or does chinese people have very small hands.. could be some playmobile shit. not even my small finger can press it.. wah damn wasted 20€... [T]http://s1.directupload.net/images/140902/cb33y63a.jpg[/T] Made i finish it someday with some real man buttons, BIG ASS BUTTONS.[/QUOTE] Wow, nice job. Reminds me of that time I was thinking of building a "cockpit" for Euro Truck Simulator. Didn't go much further than my shitty ass steering wheel made of scrap wood, few angle pieces and a metal rod from an old printer. [t]http://i.imgur.com/DQkI348.jpg[/t] Needless to say, it didn't end up like the vision I had in my mind. Funny thing is I actually got it to work. Instead of using HID, I used the MSP430 to read the pot values and send it over serial to the PC, then simulate a joystick with vJoy C# library. Now that I got a 3D printer ( it's a reprap, so I'v been fucking around trying to get this thing to print nicer and more reliably ) I'm thinking of either trying to continue the driving cockpit, or start a 737-800 build ( just the MCP panel for starters ). [editline]2nd September 2014[/editline] Sorry for quoting the whole post with pictures, trying to edit, but shit's not working out.

[QUOTE=Zero-Point;45873422]Nah dude, you're not getting it: They were literally so tiny I could barely put a fine-tipped iron on them, and the slightest dab of solder would flow across 2-3 pins at a time.[/QUOTE] Look up drag soldering. With [U]the right amount[/U] of good solder, plenty of flux and a little bit of confidence you can solder tiny pin pitch chips in seconds.

[QUOTE=Zero-Point;45873422]Nah dude, you're not getting it: They were literally so tiny I could barely put a fine-tipped iron on them, and the slightest dab of solder would flow across 2-3 pins at a time.[/QUOTE] Surface tension work in magical ways. Together with the solder rejection of the soldermask (The green stuff on a PCB), the solder will only stick to the pins and the pads, especially with a good amount of flux. Techniques like Wave soldering rely on this property aswell. With wave soldering the entire PCB basically gets flooded by a progressing wave of solder.

[QUOTE=chipset;45879891]Look up drag soldering. With [U]the right amount[/U] of good solder, plenty of flux and a little bit of confidence you can solder tiny pin pitch chips in seconds.[/QUOTE] It's not the pitch alone, it's the length of the pins. When I first saw the USB port bouncing around inside the tablet, at first glance it looked like the pins were broken completely off, that's how short they were. :v: [QUOTE=DrDevil;45882298]Surface tension work in magical ways. Together with the solder rejection of the soldermask (The green stuff on a PCB), the solder will only stick to the pins and the pads, especially with a good amount of flux. Techniques like Wave soldering rely on this property aswell. With wave soldering the entire PCB basically gets flooded by a progressing wave of solder.[/QUOTE] I appreciate the pep-talk, but this ain't my first rodeo, cowboy.

Give us some pics, or we won't leave you at peace with this :v:

[QUOTE=DrDevil;45882298]Surface tension work in magical ways. Together with the solder rejection of the soldermask (The green stuff on a PCB), the solder will only stick to the pins and the pads, especially with a good amount of flux. Techniques like Wave soldering rely on this property aswell. With wave soldering the entire PCB basically gets flooded by a progressing wave of solder.[/QUOTE] You don't need a solder mask to solder small pitch devices. I have done from TSSOP's to 3x3 mm QFN20's (0.40 mm pin pitch, 0.26 mm pin width) on a homemade PCB. Its all about the right amount of solder, flux and fine alignment.

[QUOTE=alexaz;45883763]You don't need a solder mask to solder small pitch devices. I have done from TSSOP's to 3x3 mm QFN20's (0.40 mm pin pitch, 0.26 mm pin width) on a homemade PCB. Its all about the right amount of solder, flux and fine alignment.[/QUOTE] A good quality solder mask sure as hell makes the job easier!

[QUOTE=metallics;45883858]A good quality solder mask sure as hell makes the job easier![/QUOTE] When you get down to a really fine pitch solder mask isn't going to help much since there will be no mask between the pads.

[QUOTE=DrDevil;45882498]Give us some pics, or we won't leave you at peace with this :v:[/QUOTE] He's already picked it up, and I have a shit camera anyways, so have at it I guess.

[QUOTE=Zero-Point;45885818]He's already picked it up, and I have a shit camera anyways, so have at it I guess.[/QUOTE] Put flux on the camera

What's with the price differences on DX on some stuff? Arduino micro fakes: [URL]http://www.dx.com/p/atmega328p-5v-16m-board-module-w-pin-header-connectors-blue-310017#.VAjUXfl_u9E[/URL] [URL]http://www.dx.com/p/funduino-pro-mini-atmega328p-borad-works-with-official-arduino-board-blue-black-244969#.VAjU1vl_u9E[/URL] [URL]http://www.dx.com/p/produino-atmega328p-improved-pro-microcontroller-circuit-board-works-with-official-arduino-boards-300824#.VAjVBvl_u9E[/URL] Arduino nano fakes: [URL]http://www.dx.com/p/nano-3-0-atmel-atmega328p-mini-usb-board-w-usb-cable-for-arduino-152052#.VAjVdPl_u9E[/URL] [URL]http://www.dx.com/p/funduino-nano-3-0-atmel-atmega328p-mini-usb-board-w-usb-cable-for-arduino-deep-blue-304528#.VAjVgfl_u9E[/URL] [URL]http://www.dx.com/p/arduino-nano-v3-0-81877#.VAjXD_l_u9E[/URL] (normally 10 bucks) Is it just the build quality or...?

[QUOTE=scratch (nl);45892899]What's with the price differences on DX on some stuff? Arduino micro fakes: [URL]http://www.dx.com/p/atmega328p-5v-16m-board-module-w-pin-header-connectors-blue-310017#.VAjUXfl_u9E[/URL] [URL]http://www.dx.com/p/funduino-pro-mini-atmega328p-borad-works-with-official-arduino-board-blue-black-244969#.VAjU1vl_u9E[/URL] [URL]http://www.dx.com/p/produino-atmega328p-improved-pro-microcontroller-circuit-board-works-with-official-arduino-boards-300824#.VAjVBvl_u9E[/URL] Arduino nano fakes: [URL]http://www.dx.com/p/nano-3-0-atmel-atmega328p-mini-usb-board-w-usb-cable-for-arduino-152052#.VAjVdPl_u9E[/URL] [URL]http://www.dx.com/p/funduino-nano-3-0-atmel-atmega328p-mini-usb-board-w-usb-cable-for-arduino-deep-blue-304528#.VAjVgfl_u9E[/URL] [URL]http://www.dx.com/p/arduino-nano-v3-0-81877#.VAjXD_l_u9E[/URL] (normally 10 bucks) Is it just the build quality or...?[/QUOTE] Nothing really. They work just as well to be honest. I can find them on ebay for less then £2 sometimes.

it's ridicilous when you remember that the official nano is 40 euro's. I think I'll just buy like two nano's/micro's but I'm not sure which :v:. I think the nano's are fine and easier as they got a micro USB connector. I don't think I'll go so small that a micro is the only way any time soon.

[QUOTE=scratch (nl);45892988]it's ridicilous when you remember that the official nano is 40 euro's. I think I'll just buy like two nano's/micro's but I'm not sure which :v:. I think the nano's are fine and easier as they got a micro USB connector. I don't think I'll go so small that a micro is the only way any time soon.[/QUOTE] I know right? I have no clue why Ardiuno itself charge so much for their boards considering how much you pick them up off ebay.

[QUOTE=nuttyboffin;45893008]I know right? I have no clue why Ardiuno itself charge so much for their boards considering how much you pick them up off ebay.[/QUOTE] It's because they produce their boards in europe instead of china. And yes, that can make that much of a difference.

[QUOTE=DrDevil;45893121]It's because they produce their boards in europe instead of china. And yes, that can make that much of a difference.[/QUOTE] I bet i could still produce it cheaper then them in the UK, and you now how expensive things are to get made in the uk (Hint: Expensive)

[video=youtube;jHHJMYy6CZM]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jHHJMYy6CZM[/video] Got around to powering up one of the VFDs I got, an IV 21. Really neat VFD, very small and at least before multiplexing will run at fairly low voltages (video is at 17V). Currently just mapping out the pins as the datasheet is in Russian and I understand little more than the voltages. [editline]5th September 2014[/editline] [QUOTE=nuttyboffin;45893140]I bet i could still produce it cheaper then them in the UK, and you now how expensive things are to get made in the uk (Hint: Expensive)[/QUOTE] For the dumbs and disagrees the Raspberry Pi is produced in the UK for example and ends up costing less.

[QUOTE=scratch (nl);45892899]What's with the price differences on DX on some stuff? Is it just the build quality or...?[/QUOTE] From my experience yes, think I've bought 5-7 arduino clones from aliexpress/ebay and 2 of them needed some resoldering to work as inteded, for example the aref was short to ground at the processor etc. so from now on I'll always check the soldering on the cheap boards I get from china.

[QUOTE=Ramdac;45897189]From my experience yes, think I've bought 5-7 arduino clones from aliexpress/ebay and 2 of them needed some resoldering to work as inteded, for example the aref was short to ground at the processor etc. so from now on I'll always check the soldering on the cheap boards I get from china.[/QUOTE] Also pretty much slave labour.

[QUOTE=ben1066;45894144] For the dumbs and disagrees the Raspberry Pi is produced in the UK for example and ends up costing less.[/QUOTE] Interesting, didn't knew that. But it makes sense because of shipping cost from China. (I think?)

[QUOTE=DrDevil;45898901]Also pretty much slave labour.[/QUOTE] Who cares as long as it's cheap.