[QUOTE=scratch (nl);45973550]Don't know if it's relevant for this thread, but I've been messing with an Arduino + ethernet shield, and got it to read txt files from the on-board sd slot and then put the data up online.
It seems to work just as I want, and succesfully uploads HTML. It's way easier than I ever though it'd be :v:[/QUOTE]
Its a pity that shield costs more than an entire Raspberry Pi B+.
My projects are always changing once I find a new chip, board or component. Then I have to wait three weeks for the part to come in since the project isn't that important. By that time, I've found a way to make that project a lot better.
I started a project a few months ago to remotely turn on my desktop and server. Pretty simple, get a few relays and hook them up to a cheap knockoff Arduino micro pro, then have some software running on another machine to fire off serial commands. Then, I wanted to combine another project (Wireless sensors and relays around the house), so I was going to add one of my NRF24L01 modules to make that board a "base station". Ordered some parts off ebay... Then tonight I came across the ESP8266. They're about $6 for a small, serial-controlled wifi board that has the TCP/IP stack onboard. It's cheaper than a W5100 shield from eBay (~$8)...
[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;45973941]Its a pity that shield costs more than an entire Raspberry Pi B+.[/QUOTE]
Yeah, I don't know why that thing is so fucking expensive :v:.
[URL="http://www.dx.com/p/ethernet-shield-with-wiznet-w5100-ethernet-chip-tf-slot-118061#.VBVVFvl_u9E"]T[/URL][URL="http://www.dx.com/p/ethernet-shield-with-wiznet-w5100-ethernet-chip-tf-slot-118061#.VBVVXvl_u9F"]hat's why you don't get the official one[/URL]. It's obviously lower quality, but it works fine.
[QUOTE=scratch (nl);45975940]Yeah, I don't know why that thing is so fucking expensive :v:.
[URL="http://www.dx.com/p/ethernet-shield-with-wiznet-w5100-ethernet-chip-tf-slot-118061#.VBVVFvl_u9E"]T[/URL][URL="http://www.dx.com/p/ethernet-shield-with-wiznet-w5100-ethernet-chip-tf-slot-118061#.VBVVXvl_u9F"]hat's why you don't get the official one[/URL]. It's obviously lower quality, but it works fine.[/QUOTE]
If it works fine.... how is it lower quality?
[QUOTE=nuttyboffin;45976106]If it works fine.... how is it lower quality?[/QUOTE]
Possibly a few bad solder joints you'll have to fix yourself and some other crap I guess.
Also, photonicinduction is back and this is bloody impressive:
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ka-LEcZaYqQ[/media]
[QUOTE=Fatfatfatty;45971591]Seems like my spare PSU has fucked off to godknowswhereville. Gonna have to get some croc clips and some wire and something to connect to my PSU with in case it shows up again. And one more little question, having too low ampage wouldnt hurt the PS2 would it?[/QUOTE]
I pulled a PS2 supply from a working unit a little while ago, if you want I can send you it for £15, it looks identical aside from many of the caps being through-hole rather than surface mount.
Great to see Photon/Andy back. Missed seeing his madness.
[QUOTE=ddrl46;45976681]Possibly a few bad solder joints you'll have to fix yourself and some other crap I guess.
Also, photonicinduction is back and this is bloody impressive:
[url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ka-LEcZaYqQ[/url][/QUOTE]
That's one comedically large plug
[QUOTE=DrDevil;45976946]That's one comedically large plug[/QUOTE]
I believe that size is the 3 Phase 125A Plugs.
Beyond that you generally have to go with PowerLock:
[img]http://www.ittcannon.com/Core/medialibrary/ITTCannon/website/Products/Powerlock/Powerlock_300.jpeg?width=300&height=300&ext=.jpeg[/img]
And those things cost a crapload...
(then again so do the 125A Sockets)
[url]http://uk.farnell.com/itt-cannon/pbx-nl-pd-eu-660/powerlock-box-no-lid-drain-660a/dp/2211244[/url]
Damn i would love to have a few of those...
[QUOTE=benjgvps;45974218]My projects are always changing once I find a new chip, board or component. Then I have to wait three weeks for the part to come in since the project isn't that important. By that time, I've found a way to make that project a lot better.
I started a project a few months ago to remotely turn on my desktop and server. Pretty simple, get a few relays and hook them up to a cheap knockoff Arduino micro pro, then have some software running on another machine to fire off serial commands. Then, I wanted to combine another project (Wireless sensors and relays around the house), so I was going to add one of my NRF24L01 modules to make that board a "base station". Ordered some parts off ebay... Then tonight I came across the ESP8266. They're about $6 for a small, serial-controlled wifi board that has the TCP/IP stack onboard. It's cheaper than a W5100 shield from eBay (~$8)...[/QUOTE]
That serial communication looks a tad unwieldy without a library inbetween the arduino and the radio.
With this I might very well build some wireless temp+humidity sensors and scatter them about my apartment.
[editline]b[/editline]
Ok, quick and dirty library built, now to await China Post's not-so-imminent arrival.
I'm in the early stages of a new project that will have to be completed quickly once parts arrive. It's nothing too complicated electrically, though the goal is to make this winter suck a lot less. I recently put a remote starter into my car (04 Chevrolet Cavalier), though the signal won't reach the parking lots at my college.
To fix this, I'm making my car respond to text messages. I impulse bought an Arduino clone with a GSM shield for $35 last night, plus $10 in other components. I have three spare remotes for my remote starter system since the first one was a dud, so I'm going to use some optoisolators to trigger the four remote buttons based on a text message from my phone. For fun, I could throw on a DS18B20 temperature sensor and see how warm it is inside the car to see if it could use another cycle.
My main concern is idle power, since I don't want drain my car battery. Especially in the winter... So I'll have to be pretty tough on sleeping the GSM module and the Arduino. Or just hook up a good ol' physical power button to completely switch it off when I don't need it.
[QUOTE=ddrl46;45976681]Possibly a few bad solder joints you'll have to fix yourself and some other crap I guess.
Also, photonicinduction is back and this is bloody impressive:
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ka-LEcZaYqQ[/media][/QUOTE]
Whose cock did he have to suck to get those two massive Mercury Arc Rectifiers?
Continuing on with my new plan for Pro Mini controlled wireless temperature sensor, I'm now looking into real time clocks.
Currently looking at the [url=http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/20002292B.pdf]MCP7940M[/url] to act as an alarm interrupt. My question, given the oscillator (page 11) requires a CL of 6-9pF, how do I calculate stray capacitance of chinese perfboard? Is that even a concern?
Or since the micro controller is just going to be bouncing off a [url=sensors.limonene.net]web server[/url], should I just make it query every ten seconds and set a web based semaphore?
[QUOTE=benjgvps;45991835]I'm in the early stages of a new project that will have to be completed quickly once parts arrive. It's nothing too complicated electrically, though the goal is to make this winter suck a lot less. I recently put a remote starter into my car (04 Chevrolet Cavalier), though the signal won't reach the parking lots at my college.
To fix this, I'm making my car respond to text messages. I impulse bought an Arduino clone with a GSM shield for $35 last night, plus $10 in other components. I have three spare remotes for my remote starter system since the first one was a dud, so I'm going to use some optoisolators to trigger the four remote buttons based on a text message from my phone. For fun, I could throw on a DS18B20 temperature sensor and see how warm it is inside the car to see if it could use another cycle.
My main concern is idle power, since I don't want drain my car battery. Especially in the winter... So I'll have to be pretty tough on sleeping the GSM module and the Arduino. Or just hook up a good ol' physical power button to completely switch it off when I don't need it.[/QUOTE]
Do you really need optoisolators? usually the buttons will have a simple pull up/pull down configuration and it should be perfectly possible to drive it directly with the AVR pins. That would reduce power consumption by a big amount. Otherwise an AVR consumes something like 10mA in full operation (not accounting for loads driven with pins).
Also look up the datasheet of the GSM module and see what they state the maximum current consumption to be. With that you can estimate a worst case scenario for how long your battery will last. Don't be surprised if it's days.
[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;45992545]Continuing on with my new plan for Pro Mini controlled wireless temperature sensor, I'm now looking into real time clocks.
Currently looking at the [url=http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/20002292B.pdf]MCP7940M[/url] to act as an alarm interrupt. My question, given the oscillator (page 11) requires a CL of 6-9pF, how do I calculate stray capacitance of chinese perfboard? Is that even a concern?
Or since the micro controller is just going to be bouncing off a [url=sensors.limonene.net]web server[/url], should I just make it query every ten seconds and set a web based semaphore?[/QUOTE]
tell me your secrets :v:. As posted above, I've been messing around with arduino+ethernet shield a bit. I'm interested in how you transmit data to your server and then make fancy graphs from it.
The arduino is 5v and the remote is 3.3v, I thought it would just simplify things a little. Since I have the time when I'm waiting for the other stuff to arrive, I'll play around with it a little more and try to find a level shifter circuit that doesn't require too many parts.
[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;45992545]Continuing on with my new plan for Pro Mini controlled wireless temperature sensor, I'm now looking into real time clocks.
Currently looking at the [url=http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/20002292B.pdf]MCP7940M[/url] to act as an alarm interrupt. My question, given the oscillator (page 11) requires a CL of 6-9pF, how do I calculate stray capacitance of chinese perfboard? Is that even a concern?
Or since the micro controller is just going to be bouncing off a [url=sensors.limonene.net]web server[/url], should I just make it query every ten seconds and set a web based semaphore?[/QUOTE]
Do you need an RTC? You can get an approximate interval based upon your main clock and a timer and then if you're making a web request you can get a timestamp at that point.
[QUOTE=ben1066;45995693]Do you need an RTC? You can get an approximate interval based upon your main clock and a timer and then if you're making a web request you can get a timestamp at that point.[/QUOTE]
I was just planning on having it run on battery power. Didn't want to have to constantly change the batteries.
[editline]16th September 2014[/editline]
[QUOTE=scratch (nl);45994826]tell me your secrets :v:. As posted above, I've been messing around with arduino+ethernet shield a bit. I'm interested in how you transmit data to your server and then make fancy graphs from it.[/QUOTE]
I'll send you.my code after work.
[QUOTE=benjgvps;45994869]The arduino is 5v and the remote is 3.3v, I thought it would just simplify things a little. Since I have the time when I'm waiting for the other stuff to arrive, I'll play around with it a little more and try to find a level shifter circuit that doesn't require too many parts.[/QUOTE]
Are the buttons connecting the pin to ground? If so, you don't need a levelshifter, just have the pin output either "LOW" or set as an input. That'll let the magic of tristate do it's work.
[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;45995847]I was just planning on having it run on battery power. Didn't want to have to constantly change the batteries.
[editline]16th September 2014[/editline]
I'll send you.my code after work.[/QUOTE]
Not sure about AVRs but the MSP430 can run for a [URL="http://blog.thelifeofkenneth.com/2010/09/msp430-low-power-experiment.html"]very long time[/URL] from a supercap. The AVR has power down states too right?
[QUOTE=ben1066;45996053]Not sure about AVRs but the MSP430 can run for a [URL="http://blog.thelifeofkenneth.com/2010/09/msp430-low-power-experiment.html"]very long time[/URL] from a supercap. The AVR has power down states too right?[/QUOTE]
Yes. Some AVRs can go with a handfull of µA when completely powered down.
[QUOTE=ben1066;45996053]Not sure about AVRs but the MSP430 can run for a [URL="http://blog.thelifeofkenneth.com/2010/09/msp430-low-power-experiment.html"]very long time[/URL] from a supercap. The AVR has power down states too right?[/QUOTE]
Add a joule ringer and things get even better :D.
[QUOTE=ben1066;45996053]Not sure about AVRs but the MSP430 can run for a [URL="http://blog.thelifeofkenneth.com/2010/09/msp430-low-power-experiment.html"]very long time[/URL] from a supercap. The AVR has power down states too right?[/QUOTE]
Its a good thing I drunkenly bought 2 400F 2.5V supercaps two days ago.
haha :D how much does each cap costs by the way?
[QUOTE=DrDevil;45996014]Are the buttons connecting the pin to ground? If so, you don't need a levelshifter, just have the pin output either "LOW" or set as an input. That'll let the magic of tristate do it's work.[/QUOTE]
It appears that the pins are being connected to the positive battery terminal when the buttons are pressed.
Though I might be in luck, on a whim I pulled up the datasheet for the IC on the board:
[url]http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/devicedoc/21137f.pdf[/url]
[B]2.0V - 6.3V operation
[/B]
Whelp, that makes things [I]too[/I] easy.
I really should get myself a supercap upgrade from my 1F 5.5v
[QUOTE=Fourier;45996963]haha :D how much does each cap costs by the way?[/QUOTE]
[Url=http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/XB3560-2R5407-R/283-4176-ND/3721393]$15[/URL].
Supercaps aren't necessarily something I understand, if I have them in serial to provide 5V, can I run 5V through them to charge them?
[QUOTE=scratch (nl);45994826]tell me your secrets :v:. As posted above, I've been messing around with arduino+ethernet shield a bit. I'm interested in how you transmit data to your server and then make fancy graphs from it.[/QUOTE]
Here is the arduino code for it.
[code]
EthernetClient client;
// This function copied verbatum from the arduino example
void setup() {
// Open serial communications and wait for port to open:
Serial.begin(9600);
// start the Ethernet connection:
if (Ethernet.begin(mac) == 0) {
Serial.println("Failed to configure Ethernet using DHCP");
// no point in carrying on, so do nothing forevermore:
// try to congifure using IP address instead of DHCP:
Ethernet.begin(mac, ip);
}
// give the Ethernet shield a second to initialize:
delay(1000);
Serial.println("connecting...");
HttpPost( "DataIn.php", "thisisavalue=butts" );
}
//Data is in key=value pairs.
//ex: Machine=Butts&Temperature=3.14
void HttpPost(String file, String data) {
if (client.connect(SERVER, 80)) {
Serial.println("connected");
// Make a HTTP request:
client.print("POST /");
client.print(file);
client.print("?");
client.print(data);
client.println(" HTTP/1.1");
client.print("Host: ");
client.println(SERVER);
client.println("Connection: close");
client.println();
}
else {
// No connection to the server.
Serial.println("connection failed");
}
}
void loop()
{
// if there are incoming bytes available
// from the server, read them and print them:
if (client.available()) {
char c = client.read();
if(c == '\n') {
Serial.println("Server Response: " + currentLine);
foo(currentLine);
currentLine = "";
} else {
currentLine += c;
}
}
}
[/code]
The graphs are made from straight JSON with the Google Charts API. The JSON is made from a web based MySQL database with a .php script.
[code]
//Following will echo repeat anything you send to it.
<?php
//Warning: I'm not typing any sanitization/validation in here because I'm lazy.
if(filter_has_var("POST", "thisisavalue")) {
echo $_POST["thisisavalue"];
}
?>
[/code]
[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;45999575]
Supercaps aren't necessarily something I understand, if I have them in serial to provide 5V, can I run 5V through them to charge them?[/QUOTE]
I think you mean series, if you put capacitors in series the maximum voltage rating adds but the capacitance is reduced by the reciprocal sum.
V = VC1 + VC2 + VCn
Ctotal = C / number_of_caps (assuming all the capacitors in series have the same capacitance)
Ctotal = 1 / ( (1/C1) + (1/C2) + (1/Cn) )
[QUOTE=Chryseus;46002955]I think you mean series, if you put capacitors in series the maximum voltage rating adds but the capacitance is reduced by the reciprocal sum.
V = VC1 + VC2 + VCn
Ctotal = C / number_of_caps (assuming all the capacitors in series have the same capacitance)
Ctotal = 1 / ( (1/C1) + (1/C2) + (1/Cn) )[/QUOTE]
Yep, meant series. So running a regulated 5V power supply to charge them up is safe correct?
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