[QUOTE=benjgvps;46018868]The horn was one of the few things we didn't hook up to the remote starter, mostly because I didn't want to be "that guy" who leans on the panic button (Well, holding down the lock button for about 2 seconds) and has his crappy car annoying the fuck out everyone.
And ideally, I would like this project to be somewhat easily-removable. The most I might connect directly to the car is the activation input for my remote starter, which just starts the car as if I pressed the button on the remote. Except it might be a tad more trustworthy than a hacked up remote. I don't want to fuck around with not having a warm car when I've gone through all that effort![/QUOTE]
Have you added an [url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mo8Qls0HnWo]array of low power red LEDs to the front of your car yet[/url]?
Also why are through-hole humidity sensors over twice the price of their identical SMD counterparts?
[t]http://i.imgur.com/B19nZGo.jpg[/t]
Designing speed and tach gauges for a driving simulator. Instead of going for continuous rotation or 360* servos, I picked up the cheapest servos I could find ($2.59 a piece from European hobbyking) and 3D printed some gears for it. It sort of works :D
[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;46023788]Have you added an [url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mo8Qls0HnWo]array of low power red LEDs to the front of your car yet[/url]?
Also why are through-hole humidity sensors over twice the price of their identical SMD counterparts?[/QUOTE]
For cheap humidity sensors the DHT22 has worked well for me, very cheap and pretty well documented. Can't really speak for accuracy but it at least responds as I would expect.
Is ebay the cheapest place to get Nixies? I feel like I've seen them for a lot cheaper than what I'm seeing on ebay.
I really want to build a nixie CPU usage & Temp Monitor for my computer but I need to find relatively cheap tubes.
I've been learning guitar for about a week, decided to turn my acoustic guitar into an electric one!
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=szovOqcKmeI[/media]
I tried learning. Sounded like utter shit no matter how will I did it, tuned my guitar, still sounded terrible.
[QUOTE=papkee;46025023]Is ebay the cheapest place to get Nixies? I feel like I've seen them for a lot cheaper than what I'm seeing on ebay.
I really want to build a nixie CPU usage & Temp Monitor for my computer but I need to find relatively cheap tubes.[/QUOTE]
Depends on the tubes, I think eBay is pretty good generally though there are some other stores but I cannot vouch for them. Personally, I haven't ordered Nixies but have ordered VFDs and numitrons. You'll do better looking for sets of 6, 12, 24 etc, it'll likely be much cheaper. Additionally, the end view tubes and the smaller tubes will likely be cheaper.
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IN-12B-NIXIE-Tube-NOS-TESTED-RUSSIAN-VINTAGE-6pcs-/271583263159?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3f3b9fb9b7[/url] for example
For reference the tubes I've been using are (mostly) cheaper still but they aren't Nixies:
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IV-21-Russian-VFD-Nixie-Tubes-Lot-of-5-NEW-/330918637294?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item4d0c49aeee[/url]
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ILC2-1-8-L-VFD-Lot-of-4-DIGIT-DISPLAY-CLOCK-NIXIE-Tube-New-FREE-SHIPPING-/250980498127?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a6f9a7acf[/url]
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IV-9-iv9-USSR-Numitron-Tubes-DIGIT-DISPLAY-NIXIE-FREE-SHIPPING-NOS-Lot-of-6-pcs-/251540302106?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a90f8691a[/url]
[QUOTE=alexaz;46024243][t]http://i.imgur.com/B19nZGo.jpg[/t]
Designing speed and tach gauges for a driving simulator. Instead of going for continuous rotation or 360* servos, I picked up the cheapest servos I could find ($2.59 a piece from European hobbyking) and 3D printed some gears for it. It sort of works :D[/QUOTE]
When I was replacing the motors in my car's instrument cluster, I looked up the part number (x27 168) with "Arduino" tacked onto the end and found that they're not too hard to drive and fairly cheap. I imagine that you could go to a scrapyard and find an actual instrument cluster and control the needles and warning lights pretty easily.
[t]http://u.limonene.net/IMG_20140919_184533.jpg[/t]
Lets get this on!
[t]http://u.limonene.net/IMG_20140919_185626.jpg[/t]
Well that was easy. Now, how do I go about removing the diode from the rest of the assembly? There is a [url=http://u.limonene.net/IMG_20140919_185223.jpg]ribbon cable[/url] connecting it to the PCB, but I'm unsure if its a good idea to cut it, is there a way to remove the ribbon cable safely?
I found some small 2W speakers at Princess Auto (I fucking love that store) for $2.99 and hooked them up to a $1 5V 3W amp from eBay.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/kNqCZmE.jpg[/t]
They sound significantly better than the full sized PC speakers I have hooked up to the computer on my workbench. I may have to go back there on Monday and buy a few more pairs...
I might hook up another one of my bluetooth modules and throw everything into a project box. If I find a battery holder around here, I could make it run off AAs and it would be perfect for listening to podcasts at our camp.
So I have two power transistors. Both were in a circuit which received a reversed DC voltage (which blew a 7805 elsewhere in the circuit). Need to confirm if they have blown or not. It's a ZTX213 and ZTX650. Not really easy to replace unless I want to substitute with TIP31C and TIP32C's.
In diode check mode my DMM reads nothing between collector and emitter both ways, a reading between of .057 between collector and base both ways (that MUST mean it's blown) and nothing both ways between base and emitter on the 650.
The 213 reads nothing between collector and emitter both ways, a reading of .680 one way between collector and base and a reading of .681 one way between base and emitter.
Figured out how to detach the ribbon cables, I now have a bunch of 2" ribbon cables.
Now the issue becomes: my screw driver is too large for the final screws.
Wooooo think I just killed two ESP8266 modules because I trusted the description of a USB->UART from a Chinese eBay seller, 5V on TX/RX, not 3.3V.
[QUOTE=ben1066;46034080]Wooooo think I just killed two ESP8266 modules because I trusted the description of a USB->UART from a Chinese eBay seller, 5V on TX/RX, not 3.3V.[/QUOTE]
Thought I read somewhere recently that the 8266 is 5v tolerant on TX/RX
[img]http://i.imgur.com/3u57sqS.png[/img]
Oooh look, the power section of a DC motor controller.... complete with current sensing, PWM speed control AND reverseability.
What compelled you to make your own H-Bridge over using a ready to go motor driver IC?
[QUOTE=DrDevil;46035159]What compelled you to make your own H-Bridge over using a ready to go motor driver IC?[/QUOTE]
The fact that a motor driver IC can't handle over 3-4 amps usually... this thing can handle 20A and up to 40V.... :)
Im redoing it now to make it on a miniture custom PCIE board ;)
Making my own little automation kit because im bored xD
Oooh sexy!
[url]http://uk.farnell.com/vishay-siliconix/sqm200n04-1m7l-ge3/mosfet-n-ch-40v-200a-to-263/dp/2364133[/url]
Im gonna change my 40A ones to those, with those, even at 20A i will only be dissapating 1/2 W on each FET that is active. :)
Todays song im listening to while working
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PjXAGORF9JI[/media]
[QUOTE=papkee;46034644]Thought I read somewhere recently that the 8266 is 5v tolerant on TX/RX[/QUOTE]
That does not appear to be the case. I can't get anything out of them now. Pulling CR_PD high causes even the RXD led to stop so.
I'm a newb to electricity so bear with me, but I have a few questions:
I have a couple of things I'm trying to work with, just out of boredom to see if they work before I try to make anything even remotely interesting. I have an LED, to start with, 2 batteries, and some uninsulated copper wire. I know the batteries still have juice in them, that's not a problem. Given the very long lifespan of LED's and the fact that I got these from an old, deconsructed toy, I doubt they burnt out. The LED's will not light however. I COULD solder the wires to it, since right now I'm just holding the wires to the battery and to the LED metal extensions, and I'm not sure if that physical contact affects the current/circuit. I do have a couple insulated wires (I'd be hijacking them off other deconstructed things) but I'd need to unsolder them. I could do it, but I'd like to ask here first if I can get around this first before doing that.
Thanks :)
[QUOTE=An Draoi;46040132]I'm a newb to electricity so bear with me, but I have a few questions:
I have a couple of things I'm trying to work with, just out of boredom to see if they work before I try to make anything even remotely interesting. I have an LED, to start with, 2 batteries, and some uninsulated copper wire. I know the batteries still have juice in them, that's not a problem. Given the very long lifespan of LED's and the fact that I got these from an old, deconsructed toy, I doubt they burnt out. The LED's will not light however. I COULD solder the wires to it, since right now I'm just holding the wires to the battery and to the LED metal extensions, and I'm not sure if that physical contact affects the current/circuit. I do have a couple insulated wires (I'd be hijacking them off other deconstructed things) but I'd need to unsolder them. I could do it, but I'd like to ask here first if I can get around this first before doing that.
Thanks :)[/QUOTE]
Make sure that you're matching the correct terminals(?) of the LED to the right terminals of the battery. LED's are DIODES, allowing current to flow through one way, the only thing special is that they're LIGHT EMITTING (:O AMAZING :O). Since you've ripped them off a toy, I doubt the leads are in such a way that you can tell by the length which side is positive and negative. If you have a multimeter, put it on continuity, and put the leads onto each terminal on the LED. if it doesn't beep, try the multimeter wires in the other order. If it beeps, you know what way to put current through it. Or you could just put the wires the opposite way you have them now from the LED to the Battery... I'm not an expert, but depending on the current output from the battery, you might want to put a resistor in series, but what resistor you use depends on the color (I think?)
[QUOTE=RoflKawpter;46040178]Make sure that you're matching the correct terminals(?) of the LED to the right terminals of the battery. LED's are DIODES, allowing current to flow through one way, the only thing special is that they're LIGHT EMITTING (:O AMAZING :O). Since you've ripped them off a toy, I doubt the leads are in such a way that you can tell by the length which side is positive and negative. If you have a multimeter, put it on continuity, and put the leads onto each terminal on the LED. if it doesn't beep, try the multimeter wires in the other order. If it beeps, you know what way to put current through it. Or you could just put the wires the opposite way you have them now from the LED to the Battery... I'm not an expert, but depending on the current output from the battery, you might want to put a resistor in series, but what resistor you use depends on the color (I think?)[/QUOTE]
I think I have a multimeter, I'll have to poke around the basement though. I tried just flipping the LED terminals relative to the battery, it didn't seem to change anything though. However, all three time I could have sworn I felt the LED warm a bit, but I'm not sure. I doubt it could produce a significant amount of heat in such a short time, especially given that no light was output.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/sH1hNF2.png[/img]
Just fixed up my power supply so it has outputs on the front :)
[QUOTE=nuttyboffin;46040366][img]http://i.imgur.com/sH1hNF2.png[/img]
Just fixed up my power supply so it has outputs on the front :)[/QUOTE]
Still waiting for one of the higher voltage, lower current models to go up on eBay, I'm yet to see one this side of the Atlantic though.
[QUOTE=ben1066;46040390]Still waiting for one of the higher voltage, lower current models to go up on eBay, I'm yet to see one this side of the Atlantic though.[/QUOTE]
I have a second one of these, i need to order up the terminals to make the mod on that one too.
I haven't seen any higher voltage lower current ones pop up at a decent price for a while.
when i need a higher voltage, generally a Variac will do fine (0-380VDC @ 40A anyone?)
I also have a 0-1200V 0-20mA PSU for other stuff, i haven't had a chance to power it up yet. but i think it will be good for any vacuum tube testing ;)
[QUOTE=nuttyboffin;46040508]I have a second one of these, i need to order up the terminals to make the mod on that one too.
I haven't seen any higher voltage lower current ones pop up at a decent price for a while.
when i need a higher voltage, generally a Variac will do fine (0-380VDC @ 40A anyone?)
I also have a 0-1200V 0-20mA PSU for other stuff, i haven't had a chance to power it up yet. but i think it will be good for any vacuum tube testing ;)[/QUOTE]
Yeah, I think I'd want at least 30V from a power supply, that's the highest voltage I've been using so far. I normally just need 3.3V and 5V though.
[QUOTE=ben1066;46041021]Yeah, I think I'd want at least 30V from a power supply, that's the highest voltage I've been using so far. I normally just need 3.3V and 5V though.[/QUOTE]
Well that PSU i have is 0-30V 0-5A X3
Wait no, they are 20V 5A. derp
Can someone help me with this problem? I dont have a text book and I cant find any information online.
[quote]Q-3) the current carrying capacity of a wire is measured in terms of wire gage which is determined
by the copper wire diameter and tables of current capacity vs wire gage are provided in textbooks
as well as on the web.
In certain applications the current capacity of a wire is calculated using the area of the copper wire
and the allowable current density of the wire.
Assume that the average diameter of Q-2 is the expected value of the diameter of the copper wire
and that the current density is 6A/mm
2
. Calculate the average current carrying capacity of this
wire and the tolerance on this current capacity of the wire based on the above measurements in %.
[/quote]
The average diameter of Q-2 is 2.19mm.
Well if the avg diameter is 2.19mm, then the area would be expressed as 2π(d/2)*L, where L is how long the wire is.
