[QUOTE=HiddenMyst;46413913]Is it cycling on and off itself or does it just shut off completely?[/QUOTE]
Completely. PC shut off last night during a game of CS:GO and all I could smell was burning (similar to burnt toast, infact) and hasn't been staying on for longer than 6 seconds since.
[QUOTE=Dorkslayz;46414340]Completely. PC shut off last night during a game of CS:GO and all I could smell was burning (similar to burnt toast, infact) and hasn't been staying on for longer than 6 seconds since.[/QUOTE]
Remove your toast from the computer.
It sounds like the PSU, open it up and have a look.
[QUOTE=Chryseus;46415309]Remove your toast from the computer.
It sounds like the PSU, open it up and have a look.[/QUOTE]
I agree, it might well be the capacitors, in which case, buy some new capacitors and replace them, for under £10 of caps you can save like....£70-120 for a new decen psu
Well I bought a new PSU (~£45) and cleaned the dust from the heatsink (there was a solid 1mm of compact dust between the fan and the heatsink) and now everything is working fine :)
You'd have to be crazy to start picking through random resistors, hoping to find the correct one, even without being colorblind. Well, you might get lucky or close enough if you just need 1K and 10K resistors, but other than that.
Organization is key.
Also, my soldering station arrived just as I was finishing up setting up a "table" for it.
[url]http://imgur.com/a/OCZuw[/url]
Could you give your impressions on that station once you've used it for a bit? I've been considering getting the same one and want to hear what people have to say about it.
It ships with a tiny conical tip by default, and I made the mistake of not ordering any other tips yet.
Mostly because on Farnell's sites, they cost over 30€, whilst somewhere like Newark, they're like 6USD, but that doesn't take into account tax or shipping I believe, so I'll have to shop around etc.
Station itself seems good, temp is accurate with the tip when I tested is, but it takes about 10 minutes until you get used to the button layout + how it all works.
I'll post how it feels to actually use when I get some proper tips for it.
Another question: I've been asked to fix a Yamaha clavinova (basically a keyboard) that had really bad distortion from the speakers. I've opened it up, and nothing looks broke, popped, etc. Power supply outputting good voltage (right around 15v) and while I suspected the amps may be bad they both looked perfectly alright with heatsinks that looked far too large to be sensible.
Would there be any visible defects if it was the amps, or would they simply just stop working properly?
Just buy Hakko 936 tips instead, cheaper I recommend the Hakko 1.2d as a general purpose tip including generic smd work.
Pretty much the station I've been using for about a year or two now, except I have the analog version in a older style case. Works pretty well.
Are tips trivially interchangable?
Do they just have a standard barrel size?
That station has been cloned so many times you can get tips for it pretty much anywhere, most tips that are branded Hakko or Atten are compatible, although if you're not sure just check the datasheet.
As a side note you may be interested to know that your station doesn't actually measure the tip temperature, it simply makes an estimate, probably based on the resistance of the heating element, still a good station though I have one myself.
[t]http://u.cubeupload.com/Chryseus/fPIps5.jpg[/t]
Slightly different as you can see but it's more or less the same.
[QUOTE][IMG]http://i.imgur.com/wkw4R3d.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]
Hey guys! Congrat me! My 'Hello world' in the electronic world :D
Welcome! You've started out right by starting with AVR chips, definitely check out the OP for all the copious information we've accumulated if you're interested.
I got a new battery :D
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43645231/photos/electro/2014-11-08%2018.17.35.jpg[/t]
[editline]8th November 2014[/editline]
similair models (4R25-2) got 33000 mAh, I should calculate how long an LED can run on that :v:
[QUOTE=scratch (nl);46440054]I got a new battery :D
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43645231/photos/electro/2014-11-08%2018.17.35.jpg[/t]
[editline]8th November 2014[/editline]
similair models (4R25-2) got 33000 mAh, I should calculate how long an LED can run on that :v:[/QUOTE]
You should open it up, there's like 300 AA batteries in there!
[QUOTE=DrDevil;46440158]You should open it up, there's like 300 AA batteries in there![/QUOTE]
Either that or a decent amount of flour. :v:
Any way to be sure it's really not some fake piece of shit without destroying it?
[editline]8th November 2014[/editline]
bottom shows 8 circles in a 2X4 setup, probably cells of some kind (or batteries :v:)
[editline]8th November 2014[/editline]
Do you guys have an idea on what to do with these things?
[t]http://media.digikey.com/photos/Lite On Photos/LITE-ON INC- LTA-1000G.jpg[/t]
It's nothing else than 10 induvidual LED's in one package (I wish it was 8 because displaying bits is nice)
I've got two lying around but got no real plan for them. Some bar graph for i.e. temprature could work but that's so basic.
Voltage indicator for battery.
VU-meter
Binary Clock
Cylon ping-pong light
Slider indicator for setting the level of something
Cylon thingy gets my vote.
[QUOTE=nikomo;46441093]Voltage indicator for battery.[/QUOTE]
adding this as a module for my huge battery would be nice yeah.
[QUOTE=scratch (nl);46441339]adding this as a module for my huge battery would be nice yeah.[/QUOTE]
Make sure that it only lights up when a button is pressed, or else you'll drain your battery needlessly.
So far the way to do it (with i.e. 10 LED's) seems to be using the LM3914. Would you guys have any other suggestions? I've seen some circuits involving the use of diodes, but not with clear explanation.
[QUOTE=scratch (nl);46441833]So far the way to do it (with i.e. 10 LED's) seems to be using the LM3914. Would you guys have any other suggestions? I've seen some circuits involving the use of diodes, but not with clear explanation.[/QUOTE]
I always used 2 generic 74hc595 shift registers. They're super cheap, so using 2 isn't that much of a waste. If you have 2 bargraphs, you could use 3 shift registers though.
[QUOTE=DrDevil;46441898]I always used 2 generic 74hc595 shift registers. They're super cheap, so using 2 isn't that much of a waste. If you have 2 bargraphs, you could use 3 shift registers though.[/QUOTE]
That would require him to use a microcontroller, using a LM3914 he can do it all analog.
[QUOTE=ddrl46;46442521]That would require him to use a microcontroller, using a LM3914 he can do it all analog.[/QUOTE]
And that is a problem how?
There is no 'right' way to do something, it all depends on your requirements such as performance, cost, ease of use, board space, etc.
[QUOTE=Chryseus;46442645]There is no 'right' way to do something, it all depends on your requirements such as performance, cost, ease of use, board space, etc.[/QUOTE]
A microcontroller + shift register solution would be the best in every point but board space.
Soldering coat hanger wire is a horrible idea. Even cleaned of its coating it doesn't adhear.
Time to get some solid 14awg copper wire from somewhere.
[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;46444336]Soldering coat hanger wire is a horrible idea. Even cleaned of its coating it doesn't adhear.
Time to get some solid 14awg copper wire from somewhere.[/QUOTE]
Just take a couple pennies and pull really REALLY hard!
In other news, my ISP is a load of poop due to me not being able to receive sent packets half the bloody time and there's no one I can really switch to (that and they don't believe me), so I've decided to put my raspberry pi to use! Gonna try and make a script that runs every minute or so, and dumps the ping to a file and to a database and then have it generate graphs and display them on a webserver page! Gonna be fuuuun!
Maybe even have an LED that lights up if I get a "request timed out" :O
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