[QUOTE=pentium;46447223]Why a light? Use a buzzer.[/QUOTE]
A light is less annoying.
[QUOTE=pentium;46447223]Why a light? Use a buzzer.[/QUOTE]
Why a buzzer? Use an airhorn.
[QUOTE=DrDevil;46441898]I always used 2 generic 74hc595 shift registers. They're super cheap, so using 2 isn't that much of a waste. If you have 2 bargraphs, you could use 3 shift registers though.[/QUOTE]
I got two of those, and I think 10 LED's is enough for me. I'll go figuring things out now.
[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;46444336]Soldering coat hanger wire is a horrible idea. Even cleaned of its coating it doesn't adhear.[/QUOTE]
Dip it into molten tin, and then let the tin solidify.
Wetting action is for pussies.
Hehe, wetting action. I still giggle every time I use that term.
I was considering that, the n type coax thing I'm soldering to has a solder well down the center line for just that purpose.
Realizing the usefulness of an actual station right now.
Question about the 74hc595's, how do I link them up? the serial out and serial in on them is clear, but do I need to connect the 2 clock pins each of them has to the microcontroller? (also, is it fine to just connect the two different clock pins on each of them to the same pin? I got one in an old board and it works, but it's a clusterfuck so I can barely see how I did it back then)
[QUOTE=scratch (nl);46450207]Question about the 74hc595's, how do I link them up? the serial out and serial in on them is clear, but do I need to connect the 2 clock pins each of them has to the microcontroller? (also, is it fine to just connect the two different clock pins on each of them to the same pin? I got one in an old board and it works, but it's a clusterfuck so I can barely see how I did it back then)[/QUOTE]
Yes, just tie all the clock pins to the master clock pin on your microcontroller, its all CMOS so you wouldn't be affecting clock performance if you linked up a bunch to the same clock line.
Proteus doesn't include a TO263 with 5 connectors, only one with 3.
So I have to download an external program to have a nice package I can just place anywhere.
The damn thing, in order to download, first requires you to create an account on their website, which by the way has a maximum character amount of 14 on the password, so I had to get a shorter password.
After that, I had to join their mailing list, in order to download it.
Remind me to never give any money to these assholes.
[QUOTE=LoneWolf_Recon;46450254]Yes, just tie all the clock pins to the master clock pin on your microcontroller, its all CMOS so you wouldn't be affecting clock performance if you linked up a bunch to the same clock line.[/QUOTE]
ah yes, this worked. I've also realized I linked the LED's in the wrong order as it started counting bitwise from somewhere in the middle all of a sudden :v:
[editline]10th November 2014[/editline]
I also do notice all LED's making a faint flash when the it gets a new clock tick though (even ones of which the output) state does not change). Is this just a side effect of shift registers or something with the different clock pins being connnected?
$0.35/meter of 14 awg solid copper wire awww yeah
Course on microcontrollers started. Need to do a project.
Probably going to order up an ESP8266 and do something WiFi based.
I've figured out how to controll use the shift registers for the most part
[vid]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43645231/photos/electro/2014-11-10_17.webm[/vid]
I haven't tried the latest circuit with the shiftout() function. I'm using my own function right now and it works fine.
If I have an IC with a 5-lead bent and staggered lead setup, is it OK to just just unbend the bent leads with pliers?
[t]http://i.imgur.com/zcQPcVy.png[/t]
I personally don't see anything wrong with it, I don't think it'll cause any mechanical stress on the component.
[QUOTE=nikomo;46455660]If I have an IC with a 5-lead bent and staggered lead setup, is it OK to just just unbend the bent leads with pliers?
[t]http://i.imgur.com/zcQPcVy.png[/t]
I personally don't see anything wrong with it, I don't think it'll cause any mechanical stress on the component.[/QUOTE]
Sure, if you work the lead without stressing the base where it connects to the package. Not sure why you would want to bend the leads tho. Those pins are spaced out for a reason, since this looks like a switching regulator which will go out of spec or even batshit insane if there's some parasitic coupling.
I just decided to stop being a pussy and just use 100% SMD components, so fuck that package.
Copying size values from a datasheet into a package library creator is about the least exciting thing in the universe though.
[editline]10th November 2014[/editline]
...
[t]http://i.imgur.com/5m3bBhd.png[/t]
I hear EAGLE's nice this time of the year...
I remember seeing some people rig up some LED's to acts as a speedometer for some racing game using a program which pulled raw data from the game. Does anyone perhaps know what program they used?
Just FYI, Aliexpress is having a -15% off sale in just a little under 6 hours.
Guess it's time I make an account, I'm going to buy some ESP8266s like your brother buys cocaine.
(ESP8266 is available for $2,7625 a piece during the sale)
Any other good deals vs ebay?
Weeeeelll.... Right now, I'm looking at what I could personally possibly need, but...
You can get a 10pcs lot of TO-220 LM2596T-ADJ for $4.55, and the surface mount version is $6.8 for a 10pcs lot.
Still looking.
Buying chips via aliexpress is a bit of a gamble wether you will get the real thing or not, most likely not.
I just saw that there's a new Raspberry Pi A+.
[t]http://www.raspberrypi.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/A-_Overhead.jpg[/t]
Admittedly I prefer having an ethernet jack.
I think the A model is designed for applications that don't require networking.
So, turns out the lighters with just a "switch" ([URL="http://www.dreamstime.com/stock-image-lighter-blue-plastic-isolated-white-image35380781"]these[/URL]) don't use flint, they use a spark to light the flame... Aaanywho, should I be worried about this headache I've got?
[QUOTE=Gulen;46461783]So, turns out the lighters with just a "switch" ([URL="http://www.dreamstime.com/stock-image-lighter-blue-plastic-isolated-white-image35380781"]these[/URL]) don't use flint, they use a spark to light the flame... Aaanywho, should I be worried about this headache I've got?[/QUOTE]
I'm surprised you didn't know that.
[url]http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piezoelectricity#High_voltage_and_power_sources[/url]
Microchip's free compiler doesn't let you use a variable to set the length of a delay.
Seriously?
Not to forget it's trivial to work around.
Still can't wet this copper, but I did manage to melt the PTFE separating the two conductors on one of my coax terminals before the solder melted somehow.
So, reevaluating my use of lead free solder in these situations (shouldn't make a difference really), and am currently contemplating buying a heat gun/rework station and some solder paste.
[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;46464796]Still can't wet this copper, but I did manage to melt the PTFE separating the two conductors on one of my coax terminals before the solder melted somehow.
So, reevaluating my use of lead free solder in these situations (shouldn't make a difference really), and am currently contemplating buying a heat gun/rework station and some solder paste.[/QUOTE]
Are you using good flux? Have you tried cleaning the copper with a light sand-paper/steel wool before hand? Are you possibly getting the wire TOO hot? (this is a thing, believe it or not)
Freshly stripped RW90 14/1, I have no incling as to whether my flux pen is good or not so let's assume not.
My [URL=https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12724]cheap soldering iron[/URL] is set to 300°C to avoid damage to the dielectric layer (that didn't work).
That iron looks a bit better quality than most cheap ones but I'd still recommend investing a small amount to get a decent soldering station such as an atten clone.
Also you really should use a quality leaded solder, it's better in practically every way and is perfectly safe as long as you don't eat it.
Finally when tinning wire it's a very good idea to have some liquid flux on hand since bare copper can oxidize faster than you can properly tin it, a well tinned wire should have no clumps of solder on it and should take less than 10 seconds to tin, you can make your own cheap flux by mixing powdered rosin with isopropyl alcohol.
300c is actually a little on the low side for tinning wire, I use 360c without any problems, you want it so you can get solder on it quickly rather than allow the insulation to start melting.
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