[QUOTE=metallics;46521478]Pretty sure yours is identical - you just don't have a ground pin. The only reason we have a "live" and "neutral" is because the live is one phase of a 3 phase system and the neutral is the common neutral point. I can't see off the top of my head how connecting it backwards would make any difference - it would still be a 50 HZ 230V sine wave.[/QUOTE]
This ought to shed some light on earth and neutral in relation to live.
[url]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_and_neutral[/url]
Generally swapping the live and neutral is fine, if it has a metal case then you want it tied to neutral (or a protective earth) since neutral is ~0V relative to earth, leaving the case floating is a serious shock hazard.
[QUOTE=alexaz;46521100]Ink transfer is inferior to photo-etching. You get a pre-sensitized board, place a transparency sheet with a pattern on it, blast it with a UV lamp ( could be LEDs, too ), dip the thing a developer solution. I'v gotten boards with 0.2mm traces.[/QUOTE]
[URL=http://ebay.com/itm/121351877171?_mwBanner=1]Hehehe[/url]
UV lamps are a better choice since it's more diffuse.
Okay, new project for tonight.
Going to rebuild the ALDL to serial adapter I built for my car.
[img]http://www.suzuki-forums.com/attachments/suzuki-sidekick-escudo-vitara-geo-tracker/7371d1241390627-aldl-connector-aldl-jtgh1.jpg[/img]
That schematic has a lot of inconsistencies and I had not gotten trace routing down pat the first time so it was so badly built I blew up my car's computer. :suicide:
This time we're going to try a few things differently.
Edited: oh look at that. Right off the bat I find that I was using a fake MAX232.
Completed. Took three hours.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/Computer%20related/IMG_7273.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/Computer%20related/IMG_7270.jpg[/IMG]
Changes:
-78L05 replaced with an L7805CV (much more suitable for in a car)
-Jumper powers device either from serial port or from car.
-Added LED to indicate power
-DB25 header replaced with DB9 header
I like the shape of that board
[editline]19th November 2014[/editline]
also is that hot glue you used? pretty sweet ass job you did if that's the case as my work with it always looks fucking terrible.
Yeah it's hot glue. I didn't want the connectors to move around.
Being able to design a PCB, print it, etch it, drill it and solder it, in 6-8 hours, really spoils you.
Anything outside making a custom PCB feels like going back into the stone age.
[QUOTE=pentium;46526222]Completed. Took three hours.
[THUMB]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/Computer related/IMG_7273.jpg[/THUMB]
Changes:
-78L05 replaced with an L7805CV (much more suitable for in a car)
-Jumper powers device either from serial port or from car.
-Added LED to indicate power
-DB25 header replaced with DB9 header[/QUOTE]
Might want to get rid of the socket and solder the ic directly on, you're gonna risk it falling out after a while if placed in a car.
Also, sockets tend to oxidize and cause loose connections.
[QUOTE=kokonut;46527833]Might want to get rid of the socket and solder the ic directly on, you're gonna risk it falling out after a while if placed in a car.
Also, sockets tend to oxidize and cause loose connections.[/QUOTE]
I've never had any problems with loose sockets, in fact if anything they are too tight and I have to use a screwdriver to lever the chip out.
I always use a tool, be it screwdriver or IC grabby thing to get them out of sockets. Doing it without any tools always fucks up the pins for me.
[QUOTE=scratch (nl);46527949]I always use a tool, be it screwdriver or IC grabby thing to get them out of sockets. Doing it without any tools always fucks up the pins for me.[/QUOTE]
I [I]always[/I] fuck up the pins, whether it's a flathead or the picker tool you can buy just for that purpose.
[QUOTE=Chryseus;46527895]I've never had any problems with loose sockets, in fact if anything they are too tight and I have to use a screwdriver to lever the chip out.[/QUOTE]
Probably don't use yours in a vibration environment though
Wow, the altera training tutorials are amazing, seriously. I've been watching through their FPGA introduction training course for the past 2 hours... really interesting (and free)
[editline]19th November 2014[/editline]
Was just having a look at Plymouth university.... Looked really great with nice facilities... heck, 6 layer board manufacturing lab at the place itself.... Then I looked at the software they use.... Proteus design suite.... well fuck that! Where are universities that use proper software like Eagle CAD or Altium.
[QUOTE=nuttyboffin;46529020]Was just having a look at Plymouth university.... Looked really great with nice facilities... heck, 6 layer board manufacturing lab at the place itself.... Then I looked at the software they use.... Proteus design suite.... well fuck that! Where are universities that use proper software like Eagle CAD or Altium.[/QUOTE]
There's nothing really wrong with Proteus, feature wise it's slightly better than Eagle, they're both still fucking awful compared to Altium.
hello EE friends i would like to introduce myself to the community. although i had very small experience with electronics in terms of high school robotics and personal arduino projects, i got accepted into the computer/electrical engineering program at UMass and right now we're balls deep in ENGIN112, the intro to ECE. i'm aiming for the computer engineering track but i thought i'd show a circuit i designed in lab recently
this took me four hours from getting the lab and looking at the specs to completion. we had to utilize pre-existing code to design a circuit that would sample temperature using a small temp gauge, convert and store that information in a shift register as BCD and then use it to light up two banks of 4 LEDs to each corresponding digit:
[img]http://i.imgur.com/qLEUCMX.png[/img]
it's certainly not much compared to the cool projects i browse in this thread but i'm really surprised at how much i've learned in a short two months and am excited to learn more. right now the temperature in my room is 0110 0111 fahrenheit.
Now go find a 3D printer and make it battery portable.
only issue is the digispark only having that USB connector. i haven't been taught anything about voltages other than how they apply to circuits and how to look at them on oscilloscopes and shit so this may seem like a silly question, but would hacking some sort of 9V battery to USB adapter together cause issues if the arduino is expecting 5V from a typical USB port? because i could totally do that
also i can get an almost infinite amount of free chips and parts and hardware from the school so i plan on trying to design and build a synthesizer :v:
Right, so the whole reason I built that adapter was because the guy selling the software package it uses pulled all documents pertaining to building your own adapter and instead offered the finished adapter for $160, plus $30 shipping form the UK. I still got a copy of his old beta software but noticed his site was down so I couldn't access the newer version 1.1 so I asked about.
[quote]There have been a lot of changes since v0.84, I have invested several thousand dollars in securing the protocol definitions for the majority of Suzuki ECUs and the latest software uses a new direct USB driver that is six times faster than the old Virtual Com Port driver. Because of copyright issues I have had to remove some of the data from the website and forum and [B]I have had to lock the software to my interfaces[/B]. [/quote]
Yeah, after the shit you pulled on not allowing us to build our own FTDI based adapters, I'm totally believing your story. Dick.
[quote]Might want to get rid of the socket and solder the ic directly on, you're gonna risk it falling out after a while if placed in a car.[/quote]
Unless your socket is really old or worn out that chip isn't falling out.
[QUOTE=FFStudios;46530347]would hacking some sort of 9V battery to USB adapter together cause issues if the arduino is expecting 5V from a typical USB port? because i could totally do that[/QUOTE]
Yes, it would cause issues, but,
[QUOTE=FFStudios;46530347]also i can get an almost infinite amount of free chips and parts and hardware from the school so i plan on trying to design and build a synthesizer :v:[/QUOTE]
Get a 7805 from the school. Connect 9V battery plus to input terminal, and minus to ground terminal. Connect output to USB cable's +, and ground to cable's -.
If you can freely order parts, you can also look for a drop-in switch-mode replacement for the 7805, and it'll give you more battery life.
You could also connect the 9V battery to a barrel jack and plug it in via the DC power input.
That will take up to 12V DC input and convert to both 5V and 3V3.
That is, assuming you're running on an Arduino Uno.
If there's no regulation on the input, feeding 9V to something that wants 5V, would be bad.
I'd look into what's on the board. I see a DPAK with three legs on there, could be a linear regulator.
So last week i finished my "Wheel of Fortune" project. (International Module)
I know this maybe fits more into the WAYWO thread, but eh.
Running on a STM32F411 @ 100 Mhz with 230400 baudrate to PC using ST-Link.
[video=youtube;JyfTj274xfw]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JyfTj274xfw[/video]
(No players connected over i2c during this video, so I just set the array to enable some players)
I'm using noise on a floating ADC pin to generate the 'random' seed.
The resistance of the wheel, time before the wheel begins to stop and the definition of a stopped wheel is using rand.
There's 6 states:
Boot
Players connect (I2C slaves responds with a pushed button or not)
Choose numbers (I2C slaves responds with a pushed button or not) (Number starts at 10, just to show that it works going from 12 to 1, as a number can only be applied to one player)
Wheel spins
Wheel number and winner is displayed
Scoreboard is updated and shown.
The printf/UART communication to PC was way more powerful than I thought it would be. I'm going to use this way more in upcoming projects.
//Mads Stark
[QUOTE=nikomo;46531738]If there's no regulation on the input, feeding 9V to something that wants 5V, would be bad.
I'd look into what's on the board. I see a DPAK with three legs on there, could be a linear regulator.[/QUOTE]
Or if he wishes to make it battery powered, he can use a 4xAAA pack. Most 5V devices can handle 6V just fine IIRC, though if he wants to be extra careful he can use NiMH cells instead of alkaline, which would make it 4.8V. (still within tolerance)
9V batteries are so easy to work with, though, lots of voltage and pretty decent current capability.
As long as you have one of those handy little 9V battery connector things with two wires coming out of it.
[QUOTE=Zero-Point;46532918]Or if he wishes to make it battery powered, he can use a 4xAAA pack. Most 5V devices can handle 6V just fine IIRC, though if he wants to be extra careful he can use NiMH cells instead of alkaline, which would make it 4.8V. (still within tolerance)[/QUOTE]
4 full AAA batteries would approach 7V. That will fry 99% of all 5V devices.
[QUOTE=nikomo;46534544]9V batteries are so easy to work with, though, lots of voltage and pretty decent current capability.
As long as you have one of those handy little 9V battery connector things with two wires coming out of it.[/QUOTE]
Decent current capability from a 9V? Ha.
[QUOTE=DrDevil;46534796]4 full AAA batteries would approach 7V. That will fry 99% of all 5V devices.[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=Zero-Point;46532918]if he wants to be extra careful [b]he can use NiMH cells instead of alkaline[/b], which would make it 4.8V. (still within tolerance)[/QUOTE]
Or just get a DC-DC-regulator. They're not that expensive.
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