[QUOTE=nuttyboffin;46592392]Wow.... I walked in and met everyone, got on really well. They seem to like me.... as....
Well... Job offer, day release, training etc.... and progression up the ladder.... *dances*
They asked me what kind of pay I expect.... I'm not sure what to say really. What do you guys think? £20-£23k seems like the industry standard... not sure.[/QUOTE]
I'd say "Pay doesn't matter to me, I'd rather get an unpaid internship for eternity!"
[QUOTE=nuttyboffin;46592392]Wow.... I walked in and met everyone, got on really well. They seem to like me.... as....
Well... Job offer, day release, training etc.... and progression up the ladder.... *dances*
They asked me what kind of pay I expect.... I'm not sure what to say really. What do you guys think? £20-£23k seems like the industry standard... not sure.[/QUOTE]
Depends what for precisely but somewhere in that region wouldn't be an unreasonable ask just starting out as an electronic engineer. I think grad average is about 24k a year.
[QUOTE=RoflKawpter;46594596]I'd say "Pay doesn't matter to me, I'd rather get an unpaid internship for eternity!"[/QUOTE]
unpaid internship for eternity..... Immortality included? I'd pay them a $
Apparently last month at one point, I got really sick of thinking about how to jump over stuff with SMD components, and I forgot about that entirely, up until now.
My 5000pcs reel of 0 ohm 0603 resistors came today.
[QUOTE=nikomo;46596492]Apparently last month at one point, I got really sick of thinking about how to jump over stuff with SMD components, and I forgot about that entirely, up until now.
My 5000pcs reel of 0 ohm 0603 resistors came today.[/QUOTE]
Why not just use a 2-layer board?
Because back then, I was trying to understand how an operational amplifier worked, board design and manufacturing was not in my mind. Also, two-layer boards are a pain in the ass to get done correctly with the equipment at my school, I've never done a two-layer board.
It's crazy how much stuff you can learn in 4-6 weeks.
I'm still in the part where you plan out a bunch of stuff you want to do but then have no clue how to do it.
I still have to google basic circuits.
When in doubt: Darlington pairs.
Doesn't matter what, just put a Darlington pair on it.
[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;46597575]When in doubt: Darlington pairs.
Doesn't matter what, just put a Darlington pair on it.[/QUOTE]
What about ULN2003s? I've got damn-near a pile of them from all the boards I've salvaged from work.
[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;46597575]When in doubt: Darlington pairs.
Doesn't matter what, just put a Darlington pair on it.[/QUOTE]
Bah Sziklai pair is better in many ways.
When in doubt, [URL="https://www.reddit.com/r/AskElectronics/comments/2np3l5/regulator_output_goes_to_0v_when_connecting/"]short Vout to ground[/URL].
[QUOTE=nikomo;46599800]When in doubt, [URL="https://www.reddit.com/r/AskElectronics/comments/2np3l5/regulator_output_goes_to_0v_when_connecting/"]short Vout to ground[/URL].[/QUOTE]
Those kind of hook ups irk me, I'd prefer the tab to either be connected to ground or the substrate of the junction. Especially with tight PCBs that I don't accommodate for any particular heat sink other than the copper pours.
That was seriously the first time where I've seen the tab being something other than ground.
[QUOTE=nikomo;46600658]That was seriously the first time where I've seen the tab being something other than ground.[/QUOTE]
It isn't unusual with regulators for the tab to be Vout.
Well.... I got the job! starting in on monday to begin and sort things out :)
I had went down to the bar at a -really- flash hotel with the boss to chat with my father and him. It went well and we ended up joining them for dinner (on the company) and he hired me there and then :D
Trying to fix my XBOX (2006 model, like in this video below), he's using a heat gun to heat the entire circuit, and then lets it cool for 30 minutes. I don't see the point for this, it looks like a waste of time.
Anyone know why?
[url]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oiXwA9T26W4#t=947[/url]
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oiXwA9T26W4#t=947[/media]
I think from what I've read he's trying to fix broken BGA joints in the graphics chip. I think that's the main cause of the red ring and by heating it up the joints expand enough for it to work for a while longer.
AFAIK Microsoft designed the console's cooling, and the prototypes worked fine, but they were using leaded solder on the prototypes.
Then it went to production, someone remembered RoHS became law in 2003, they used leadless solder, and suddenly the cooling wasn't enough.
So what you're saying is that the heatgun part is necesarry? :)
I was hoping I could be done today but unfortunately I don't own a heatgun myself, so I'll have to wait till school opens tomorrow.
Put it in the oven.
Some people have also had limited success by wrapping it in a towel + tinfoil and using a hairdryer.
[QUOTE=papkee;46606474]I think from what I've read he's trying to fix broken BGA joints in the graphics chip. I think that's the main cause of the red ring and by heating it up the joints expand enough for it to work for a while longer.[/QUOTE]
It's not about expanding the solder balls or anything like that. What you are doing by heating it up is melting the solder balls underneath, which causes broken joints to come together again. This is called reflow and will only work with temperatures that are above the 230 degrees C needed for lead-free solder to melt.
I still can't get my head around putting a pcb in the oven to resolder everything :v:, the logic behind it makes sense (stuff heats up and melts, not very complicated...) but it just sounds so silly as a legit solution.
Also as a chemist by training I have a big issue with using food preparation objects as stuff for PCB reworking.
I keep thinking "health and safety are gonna kill me".
And incidentally I've had a bunch of liquid flux sitting in my post office box in below freezing temperatures for the past three days..
I bought a shitty second hand toaster oven specifically for reflowing and mass depopulating boards. Some of the shit a hot PCB gives off is NOT what you want floating around.
Should I get a $14 heat gun with a set temp of 250°C or a variable Chinese one that is more than likely miswired for $68?
Atten 858D
Thinking about getting one myself.
Apparently half the 858Ds in existence are dangerously miswired, if EEVBlog and amazon reviews are to be believed.
[editline]1st December 2014[/editline]
Also I'm now looking to get my ham radio license.
The local ham radio club just so happens to be √2 blocks from me.
[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;46613466]Apparently half the 858Ds in existence are dangerously miswired, if EEVBlog and amazon reviews are to be believed.
[editline]1st December 2014[/editline]
Also I'm now looking to get my ham radio license.
The local ham radio club just so happens to be √2 blocks from me.[/QUOTE]
I have a Scotle 858D+, which is the same as the Atten 858D, except with a different label on the front. Has not blown my hands off yet. I suggest getting it, just check the insides before powering it on.
You should check the insides of everything before you turn it on.
As Dave says "Don't turn it on, take it apart!"
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