I just went out and bought a Dewalt variable-temp gun from Lowes sometime earlier this year, makes removing SMDs a breeze I tell you hwhat. (but as pentium pointed out not too pleasant to smell)
Only downside is that it's capable of well over the safe limit for most (if not all) SMD components and it doesn't have a temperature readout, it only has a dial for control with no real indication of how hot the out-going air actually is (not even numbers on the dial! C'mon Dewalt get your shit together!). One of these days I might try to rig up a temperature-out display with a thermocouple tagged onto the outlet of the nozzle(s).
I mean Dewalt makes a version that's p. much the same thing as this but with digital control/readout but it's likely $40-50 more expensive and where's the fun in that?
[url]http://i.imgur.com/liuDONa.gifv[/url]
Looks interesting :)
Isn't this how railguns work?
Got a 14 pin DIP footprint but you only have 16 pin sockets in stock?
No problem.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/Computer%20related/IMG_7383.jpg[/IMG]
Go grab the hacksaw! :v:
[QUOTE=Fourier;46621345][url]http://i.imgur.com/liuDONa.gifv[/url]
Looks interesting :)
Isn't this how railguns work?[/QUOTE]
No, the projectile doesn't carry it's own energy source in a railgun.
i've been trying to extend an old usb hub so that it has a reach of about 2m. When i had it wired up windows didn't seem to recognize any devices i plugged into it (it does know that something is plugged in).
After that i tried to just add a single female usb port instead of the hub and i get the same thing.
It recognized my headset for a split second but since then it does the same thing as the hub no matter what i plug in.
The connections are good and i'm reading a solid 5V on the end.
The only thing i can think of is that i left about 0.5m of the old cable (salvaged a usb to mini usb cable) which has pretty thin wires. Should i make that piece of cable shorter?
[QUOTE=0lenny0;46621755]i've been trying to extend an old usb hub so that it has a reach of about 2m. When i had it wired up windows didn't seem to recognize any devices i plugged into it (it does know that something is plugged in).
After that i tried to just add a single female usb port instead of the hub and i get the same thing.
It recognized my headset for a split second but since then it does the same thing as the hub no matter what i plug in.
The connections are good and i'm reading a solid 5V on the end.
The only thing i can think of is that i left about 0.5m of the old cable (salvaged a usb to mini usb cable) which has pretty thin wires. Should i make that piece of cable shorter?[/QUOTE]
Best bet would be to get rid of that 0.5m stretch at all. Data transmission cables are sensitive to things like noise and crosstalk. The longer the cable is, the better the shielding must be.
[QUOTE=DrDevil;46621727]No, the projectile doesn't carry it's own energy source in a railgun.[/QUOTE]
True.
[QUOTE=alexaz;46621799]Best bet would be to get rid of that 0.5m stretch at all. Data transmission cables are sensitive to things like noise and crosstalk. The longer the cable is, the better the shielding must be.[/QUOTE]
Thanks it's working now. I knew it could make a difference but i've never actually had a problem with it before.
[QUOTE=Fourier;46621345][url]http://i.imgur.com/liuDONa.gifv[/url]
Looks interesting :)
Isn't this how railguns work?[/QUOTE]
This is what Hexbugs [I]should be[/I], plus it'd be super educational for kids.
My Tenma soldering station's tips arrived today, along with some really, really cheap-ass 0.3mm 63/37 eutectic solder Chinese solder, and a hygrometer.
The tips are really good, even though they arrived over 2 weeks after last shipping estimate, the solder is really good too (oh God, I think I'm love with 0.3mm now), and the hygrometer is brilliant.
And I played tons of video games, and drank way too many energy drinks. Today was a good day.
Oh and, the Tenma 21-10115 station, brilliant after you get good tips for it.
I put the chisel tip on, 390°C, took out an old board from some other dude's project that had been sitting around at the school for 5+ years, the solder didn't put up any resistance.
Then I tried out some of my old solder, no problem with that either, and I could control the amount going to the work pretty damn precisely.
Then I tried the 0.3mm Chinese stuff, so good, I could actually coat the tip carefully with the exact amount of solder I wanted on it, no sticking the solder in and waiting for the damn thing to melt it.
(0.3mm solder probably melts tons faster than the 0.7mm stuff I used before, so, take that into consideration)
Hell, the Weller stations I use at school don't heat that well. Makes me wonder if the calibration on my station is off, and it was actually running at like 2000°C.
But I love this thing now.
[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;46580502]My new soldering station arrived!
Also I received a package from china, could be n type connectors, could be cables, certainly can't be the 100-odd ICs and 1000 LEDs, its a tad small for that.[/QUOTE]
Remember how I said this?
Well I finally got around to opening that box up... Turns out I was wrong!
[t]http://u.limonene.net/IMG_20141202_125134.jpg[/t]
50x 555 timers
20x Shift registers
10x 7805s
50x Photoresistors
And a buttload of LEDs, the coloured stick-on dots in the photo look like I've photoshopped them in :V:
[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;46622518]Remember how I said this?
50x 555 timers
50x Photoresistors
[/QUOTE]
50 timers and photoresistors? Are you planning on building some weird, massive, psychedelic light-sensitive synth? :D
[QUOTE=alexaz;46622599]50 timers and photoresistors? Are you planning on building some weird, massive, psychedelic light-sensitive synth? :D[/QUOTE]
[url=http://www.ebay.ca/itm/50PCS-NE555-555-DIP-8-IC-Timers-NEW-GOOD-QUALITY-/300927614595?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4610aefe83]They're really cheap[/url]
I remembered when I was thinking about buying a couple different types of resistors on eBay, just basic bullshit 5-10% tolerance Chinese cheap-ass ones.
Then I saw how much they cost. I'll probably run out of shitty resistors somewhere around 2050.
[QUOTE=nikomo;46622783]I remembered when I was thinking about buying a couple different types of resistors on eBay, just basic bullshit 5-10% tolerance Chinese cheap-ass ones.
Then I saw how much they cost. I'll probably run out of shitty resistors somewhere around 2050.[/QUOTE]
You know they're good when even the tolerance has a tolerance.
[QUOTE=nikomo;46622783]I remembered when I was thinking about buying a couple different types of resistors on eBay, just basic bullshit 5-10% tolerance Chinese cheap-ass ones.
Then I saw how much they cost. I'll probably run out of shitty resistors somewhere around 2050.[/QUOTE]
Reminds me of when I needed some 1.5M resistors for a project, wanted just 100 or so but it was literally cheaper (not just per-piece but seriously over-all) to get a reel of one thousand of them.
On a completely unrelated note, anyone need some 1.5M resistors?
[QUOTE=0lenny0;46622141]Thanks it's working now. I knew it could make a difference but i've never actually had a problem with it before.[/QUOTE]
I've run into the same issue several times. USB really does not like being run in long lengths unless the conductors are a heavier than normal gauge and the cable itself is well shielded.
[QUOTE=Zero-Point;46624921]Reminds me of when I needed some 1.5M resistors for a project, wanted just 100 or so but it was literally cheaper (not just per-piece but seriously over-all) to get a reel of one thousand of them.
On a completely unrelated note, anyone need some 1.5M resistors?[/QUOTE]
I've never been clear on what megaohm resistors are used for, I assume pull-ups and pull-downs, but is that it?
For the application I got them for, it was BEAM robots.
But what did they do? Where were they in the circuit?
If I had the patience, I'd put a thousand cheap-ass One Hung-Low 1K resistors in parallel, just to see how close to 1ohm it would get.
I'm trying to decide if I can sneak my box of goodies onto a plane. Seeing as how I won't have access to a desktop over break I'm thinking of buying some smaller components and working on a temp-controlled peltier cooler over break.
They're all benign components (4x peltiers, resistors, 2x mega 2560s, 1x nano, a bunch of wires, a shitton of mosfets, shift registers, opto isolators, and a few rgb leds) but not sure if i can smuggle them
[editline]3rd December 2014[/editline]
that or a coilgun but i will not be taking those components anywhere near the TSA
My Arduino Uno came in the mail. Or, well, you know, Chinese non-official stuff, so it's an "NHduino".
I'd never seen an Arduino before, didn't realize these things were so small.
Oh, and the bloody analog pin alignment. Ahahahaha. Talk about a good ol' legacy fuckup. That's just funny when you see it the first time.
[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;46626155]But what did they do? Where were they in the circuit?[/QUOTE]
They were used alongside .22uF capacitors to create the oscillations that those circuits run on.
[editline]3rd December 2014[/editline]
[QUOTE=paindoc;46627045]I'm trying to decide if I can sneak my box of goodies onto a plane. Seeing as how I won't have access to a desktop over break I'm thinking of buying some smaller components and working on a temp-controlled peltier cooler over break.
They're all benign components (4x peltiers, resistors, 2x mega 2560s, 1x nano, a bunch of wires, a shitton of mosfets, shift registers, opto isolators, and a few rgb leds) but not sure if i can smuggle them
[editline]3rd December 2014[/editline]
that or a coilgun but i will not be taking those components anywhere near the TSA[/QUOTE]
As paranoid as airlines are these days, you might be better off just mailing it to yourself at your destination.
You think it's a safe decision to substitute a Signetics N8881 quad two input positive NAND gate with a 74LS01? They seem to be the same component but I keep hearing rumors that the LS01 is not rated for the tasks the old 8881 was designed for.
Edited:
[url=http://www.ebay.com/itm/ELCO-EDAC-38-Pin-Male-Connector-Hood-and-Gold-Pins-NEW-FREE-SHIP-/221619598682?&autorefresh=true][i]"Hi, I'm selling an unobtanium item on ebay for a great price. I ship globally. Except Canada. Fuck you Canada. Don't even ask me questions. I've specifically locked Canadian buyers out."[/i][/url]
Airplanes aren't smart, they see anything looking like a wire and freak out.
I mean think about it: You can't get on with a [I]shampoo bottle or toe-nail clippers[/I], what makes you think they'll let you on with a non-mainstream electronic device?
[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;46630050]Airplanes aren't smart, they see anything looking like a wire and freak out.[/QUOTE]
Knowing how little holds most aircraft in the air, I can totally understand why
It should be ok if you clear it with the airline beforehand. There are people who fly with a shitload of non-consumer electronics across the country all the time.
I might try to talk to them then, its a 45 minute flight from one side of my state to another on a tiny turboprop I doubt security would be that pressing
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