[QUOTE=Zero-Point;46630191]I mean think about it: You can't get on with a [I]shampoo bottle or toe-nail clippers[/I], what makes you think they'll let you on with a non-mainstream electronic device?[/QUOTE]
I brought a 5.25" full height hard drive in my carry-on because I didn't to have it rough handled.
I also had two Fabulous Freak bothers magazines. The swab tested positive for THC but they let me take them anyways.
[QUOTE=DrDevil;46630544]It should be ok if you clear it with the airline beforehand. There are people who fly with a shitload of non-consumer electronics across the country all the time.[/QUOTE]
My roommate is a field engineer for a mining company, he keeps being sent down to mexico and south america with odd things like 40 padlocks and 10 shrinkwrapped bundles of electrical tape. I'm personally amazed he hasn't gotten cavity searched yet.
I have gotten swabbed for explosives damn near every time I've flown beyond my state.
I have a bad rap with the TSA, lets see my offenses:
-Shit tons of wires in my backpack. Pulled aside. Questioned. Almost missed flight
-Left plastic wrapped fudge in my bag. I wanted to eat that shit, damnit. Apparently it looked just [I]a little[/I] like C4 but idunno
-Magnetic putty. They really didn't like this. I think someone just never gave them fun putty.
-I may have done the fudge thing again
-One time not hours after literally cutting apart solid fuel rocket motors in my Aero class (meaning my hands were covered in [I]LITERAL EXPLOSIVES RESIDUE[/I]) they swabbed me. Came up clean but saying I was sweating bullets is an understatement. maybe their detectors suck.
So what can possibly go wrong bringing a bunch of mysterious components and intimidating seven-segment displays in a carry-on item? Maybe I can show them the Peltier effect, people love that
[QUOTE=pentium;46624984]I've run into the same issue several times. USB really does not like being run in long lengths unless the conductors are a heavier than normal gauge and the cable itself is well shielded.[/QUOTE]
The wires from the male plug seemed really thin to me (fine for a small cable, but probably not a good base for a 2m long cable). Seems to be working now although it doesn't like flash drives for some reason. My usb headset, keyboards etc seem to be working fine though which is good enough for me.
I reused my old pc as a media center so i can be lazy and watch movies and series from my bed. The usb ports are next to me so that i can use my headset when my parent's are sleeping.
The only thing that annoys me now is that i still have to get up to turn the tv off (it's a big crt one).
I've thought about messing around with my plc for some time now and i might use it as a cheap solution while i'm at it.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/iGeRMA7.jpg[/img]
All my.... Arduini?
I ordered 5 of the arduino Nanos from ebay to stock up for projects xD
I see your desk saw some action in Afghanistan.
[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;46632167]I see your desk saw some action in Afghanistan.[/QUOTE]
ever put 20 amps into a nano by accident? They explode spectacularly. Maybe he has a bad habit of mixing up the input/output of his MOSFET's like me
Packages from China in my mailbox are literally the greatest thing, it's like Asian Santa visited in the night and deposited 50 LEDs in my mailbox
I also found out there's a makerspace nearby, I might go over there to fiddle and chat up some people way better at electronics than I am
If you guys ever need a compact heat generator, plug a DS18B20 in the wrong way around.
In other, unrelated news, running cold water is the treatment for burnt fingers right?
Get some polyethylene glycol on your burns if possible.
[editline]3rd December 2014[/editline]
Polysporin also works.
When I picked up a 300°C aluminum block in the lab one I got some silver sulfadiazine, that stuff was amazing.
I consider burns from stuff like that to be proof that my power supply is, in fact, producing a healthy output of amperage
[QUOTE=nikomo;46634534]If you guys ever need a compact heat generator, plug a DS18B20 in the wrong way around.
In other, unrelated news, running cold water is the treatment for burnt fingers right?[/QUOTE]
Oh my god I did the exact same thing with the exact same part. I had a white circle on my fingertip for a good week. And yes, just keep running that fucker under cold water. If you're quick enough and run it under the tap for long enough, it won't even blister. My soldering iron burn and DS18B20 burn were fine after a few days.
Putting frozen peas (enveloped in a towel) on it can also help.
The microcontroller project I've been working on for the last 3-4 weeks just got turned into an Arduino shield project within 24 hours of me trying out the Arduino for the first time.
[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;46632167]I see your desk saw some action in Afghanistan.[/QUOTE]
Haha, the desk is made out of kitchen units. I brought a few for my room upstairs however I'm still in the guest bedroom (have been for 1 1/2 year now) Screwed on the side of another kitchen unit that my dad had scrapped on top of it as a temp desk.
There wore originally 6 holes in there, but I got bored and kept messing about with tools on my desk :L
Just received a call from the local FedEx office that there's a package waiting for me.
I assume its from China because the only time I use them is digikey shipments. And I haven't bought anything from digikey in a month.
I made a thing. Haven't powered it up yet, just finished soldering.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/EfytYn2.jpg[/t][t]http://i.imgur.com/blzHJJK.jpg[/t][t]http://i.imgur.com/5Pe3hVk.jpg[/t]
Need to cut it to shape at some point, somehow.
[QUOTE=bootv2;46660716]
Also I'm looking for a component that's much like a relay. It should be able to hande 230V AC. And the main point is that I want to be able to control how much resistance to apply instead of just having the on and off states. I'm sure there is a component out there that does this but I don't know what it's called.[/QUOTE]
What do you want to do with it? Dim lights or something like that? Try looking into solid state relays and pulse width modulation.
[QUOTE=bootv2;46660716]Hi, I'm pretty new to electrical engineering. I have an Arduino Uno, with a couple of LEDS, resistors, a breadboard, and an nxp shift register.
I have some experience programming in java and c++ so the programming concepts were pretty simple to grasp. I can now play a short tune when I press a button on my breadboard, control every LED from a java application on my computer, and read analog values.
I've found this [b]old[/b] LED controller. It's a [url=http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/115895/ETC1/IR2E03.html]sharp[/url] chip. It's from the 80's I think since I ripped it from an old [url=http://www.hansgeltonvideo.com/audio_tape.gif]tape[/url] mixing deck. I have no idea how to connect it to my raspberry and how to control it. Any ideas?
Also I'm looking for a component that's much like a relay. It should be able to hande 230V AC. And the main point is that I want to be able to control how much resistance to apply instead of just having the on and off states. I'm sure there is a component out there that does this but I don't know what it's called.[/QUOTE]
Without any details besides the internal schematic/pin-out diagrams that IR2E03 is a mystery. I would not recommend connecting it to the Pi without any details as to it's electrical behaviour/attributes (i.e. Operating Voltage, Input Current, Input Voltage, etc. I could assume 5V control and maybe 5-12V operating as those common voltages for the time, but its a large assumption). Especially since the Pi has rather [URL="http://elinux.org/RPi_Low-level_peripherals#Introduction"]sensitive GPIOs[/URL].
I'd recommend just working with that shift register (I assume its a [URL="http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/74HC_HCT595.pdf"]74HC595[/URL]) as it's a pretty solid choice for LED multiplexing/control. For the brightness control you could attempt to apply a PWM ([URL="http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/PWM"]Pulse Width Modulation[/URL]) signal to the 595's OE (Output Enable) pin to change the brightness on all the LEDs. As for interfacing it with the Pi, these are [URL="http://wiringpi.com/extensions/shift-register-74x595/"]solid[/URL] [URL="https://pythonhosted.org/RPIO/pwm_py.html"]tutorials[/URL] to get you started.
Also, welcome to the thread/EE!
Would a MOSFET be more suited to that application? Admittedly working with mains still scares me so I'm not entirely sure what I'm talking about but I have seen a MOSFET dim a 110VAC bulb.
[editline]7th December 2014[/editline]
Also I keep thinking the 'V' in VDC and VAC stands for "variable" for some reason.
[QUOTE=bootv2;46662219]I think pulse width modulation could get the job done. Will any relay that supports 230V AC be able to be switched on and off again to create a dimming effect?
I'm going to use it with a dimmable light and connect it to my pc.[/QUOTE]
That's why I mentioned solid state relays. They work well in such applications. Just make sure to get one with the appropriate ratings for your application.
[editline]8th December 2014[/editline]
[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;46662430]Would a MOSFET be more suited to that application? Admittedly working with mains still scares me so I'm not entirely sure what I'm talking about but I have seen a MOSFET dim a 110VAC bulb.[/QUOTE]
A solid state relay is usually MOSFET's and other stuff inside one package.
A solid state relay is essentially just some MOSFETs, SCRs or a TRIAC, usually with some form of optical isolation, building your own without proper isolation is a good way to get your shit blown up (or yourself).
The traditional circuit uses an opto-triac, in any case you really want to have the switching synchronized with the AC mains rather than brute forcing it with PWM, unless you enjoy generating large amounts of EMI.
A simple rectifier and opto-coupler can be used to detect the AC mains phase.
[QUOTE=Chryseus;46662787]A solid state relay is essentially just some MOSFETs, SCRs or a TRIAC, usually with some form of optical isolation, building your own without proper isolation is a good way to get your shit blown up (or yourself).
The traditional circuit uses an opto-triac, in any case you really want to have the switching synchronized with the AC mains rather than brute forcing it with PWM, unless you enjoy generating large amounts of EMI.
A simple rectifier and opto-coupler can be used to detect the AC mains phase.[/QUOTE]
So I would assume this is the [URL="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phase_fired_controllers"]proper method[/URL] of AC-PWM?
The DS18B20 on my board is working fine now.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/U2V2GAG.jpg[/t]
Need to clean up code and then probably tackle the ESP8266.
Dave Jones took a Textronix TDS 220 through a mud run, and it survived.
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZCokbsTwmQ[/media]
I've got an issue with two servo's creating a power usage spike. As soon as I connect them and the microcontroller to power, they draw too much power trying to rush to a spot that they shut down the microcontroller and the process repeats itself. What is the solution to this besides using a seperate power source for the controller?
[QUOTE=scratch (nl);46668576]I've got an issue with two servo's creating a power usage spike. As soon as I connect them and the microcontroller to power, they draw too much power trying to rush to a spot that they shut down the microcontroller and the process repeats itself. What is the solution to this besides using a seperate power source for the controller?[/QUOTE]
A large inductor or NTC thermistor on the power rail.
A separate supply or its own regulator would be a better idea.
How much does one of those things draw anyways? A motor of any kind sounds like something I wouldn't want to directly drive off a microcontroller.
[QUOTE=nikomo;46668769]How much does one of those things draw anyways? A motor of any kind sounds like something I wouldn't want to directly drive off a microcontroller.[/QUOTE]
Anywhere from 250mA to nearly 2A
[url]http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/bhabbott/Servo.html[/url]
[QUOTE=nikomo;46666867]The DS18B20 on my board is working fine now.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/U2V2GAG.jpg[/t]
Need to clean up code and then probably tackle the ESP8266.[/QUOTE]
Did you think about running your application code on the ESP8266 yet? It has a 70 MHz or so CPU in it, which can be programmed with GCC. There's an SDK to handle all the IP-Stack stuff, so you can realistically still have something among the power of an arduino running concurrently.
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