[QUOTE=nikomo;46668769]How much does one of those things draw anyways? A motor of any kind sounds like something I wouldn't want to directly drive off a microcontroller.[/QUOTE]
nah the microcontroller (arduino nano) isn't directly powering the servo's, it's on the same power supply as them. It seems the servo's draw too much power from the 6V battery pack or something causing it to turn off for a split second after which it sends a command to the servo's causing it to repeat.
[QUOTE=DrDevil;46668829]Did you think about running your application code on the ESP8266 yet? It has a 70 MHz or so CPU in it, which can be programmed with GCC. There's an SDK to handle all the IP-Stack stuff, so you can realistically still have something among the power of an arduino running concurrently.[/QUOTE]
I thought about it, I know it's possible, but I haven't really touched on it, and the Arduino environment is way easy to work with.
[QUOTE=scratch (nl);46668964]nah the microcontroller (arduino nano) isn't directly powering the servo's, it's on the same power supply as them. It seems the servo's draw too much power from the 6V battery pack or something causing it to turn off for a split second after which it sends a command to the servo's causing it to repeat.[/QUOTE]
Servo probably drawing so much current that the voltage dips.
A teacher of mine told to always put caps between VCC and GND of the microcontroller, as close as possible, to filter out spikes and other interference.
I was also thinking of using a cap to filter spikes. I'll try it out.
So after mucking around for two hours I now have control of my ESP8266.
I've got this strange problem, though. When I try and print a command, such as [QUOTE]AT+CWJAP="SSID","PASS"[/QUOTE] it comes back as [QUOTE]AT+CWJAP}"SSID","PASS"[/QUOTE]
No matter what serial terminal I use the "=" consistently gets replaced by a "}". Is this a problem with the connection or with my computer?
FYI I have the TX line running through a voltage divider as to not kill my ESP, could that be the issue?
[editline]8th December 2014[/editline]
Also "=" sometimes becomes a "y" in long commands.
[QUOTE=scratch (nl);46668576]I've got an issue with two servo's creating a power usage spike. As soon as I connect them and the microcontroller to power, they draw too much power trying to rush to a spot that they shut down the microcontroller and the process repeats itself. What is the solution to this besides using a seperate power source for the controller?[/QUOTE]
Try using a 470uF or bigger cap across the servo's power rail for each servo. That worked for me.
[QUOTE=papkee;46672699]So after mucking around for two hours I now have control of my ESP8266.
I've got this strange problem, though. When I try and print a command, such as it comes back as
No matter what serial terminal I use the "=" consistently gets replaced by a "}". Is this a problem with the connection or with my computer?
FYI I have the TX line running through a voltage divider as to not kill my ESP, could that be the issue?
[editline]8th December 2014[/editline]
Also "=" sometimes becomes a "y" in long commands.[/QUOTE]
'=' in binary ascii: 0b0111101
'}' in binary ascii: 0b1111101
'y' in binary ascii: 0b1111001
Seems to me like you're loosing bits there. You should try other level shifting methos, like a transistor.
[QUOTE=DrDevil;46673638]'=' in binary ascii: 0b0111101
'}' in binary ascii: 0b1111101
'y' in binary ascii: 0b1111001
Seems to me like you're loosing bits there. You should try other level shifting methos, like a transistor.[/QUOTE]
Yeah, I figured that would be the case. This is only my test circuit though, so hopefully it'll work fine when I pop it in the main board which runs at 3.3v. It'll just make debugging a little bit harder.
This is why I need to stock up on parts. I have no spare resistors or transistors and this project is due in a week.
[t]http://a.pomf.se/gktorh.jpg[/t]
Woohoo!
[QUOTE=DrDevil;46676489][t]http://a.pomf.se/gktorh.jpg[/t]
Woohoo![/QUOTE]
I love that scope, I have one myself :3
[QUOTE=scratch (nl);46669613]I was also thinking of using a cap to filter spikes. I'll try it out.[/QUOTE]
so I tried adding an elco to the Vin of the arduino or the vcc of the servo's, but the capacitor does not seem to transmit power, it transmits a little bit just after connecting (lights on the Arduino nano I use flashed up for a split second) after which it stops. Could it be charging or did I just not connect it the right way around (+ end receiving power, - end with white marking transmitting it)
[QUOTE=scratch (nl);46676535]so I tried adding an elco to the Vin of the arduino or the vcc of the servo's, but the capacitor does not seem to transmit power, it transmits a little bit just after connecting (lights on the Arduino nano I use flashed up for a split second) after which it stops. Could it be charging or did I just not connect it the right way around (+ end receiving power, - end with white marking transmitting it)[/QUOTE]
It should look something like this:
[T]http://u.limonene.net/Sketch9293611.jpg[/t]
[Sp]Yes, I did this on a phone[/sp]
[QUOTE=DrDevil;46676489][t]http://a.pomf.se/gktorh.jpg[/t]
Woohoo![/QUOTE]
So, what organs will I have to put on ice to afford such a thing?
€ 360,- and a few months with the massive lead time due to how popular they are.
I'd love a scope but I just can't afford one, have no need for one and have no clue how to use one.
[QUOTE=ddrl46;46677887]€ 360,- and a few months with the massive lead time due to how popular they are.[/QUOTE]
I had to wait 1 month additionally to the initially declared 3 weeks lead time... this thing really is selling like sliced bread!
Also [url]http://gotroot.ca/rigol/riglol/[/url]
[editline]9th December 2014[/editline]
[QUOTE=Leestons;46678376]I'd love a scope but I just can't afford one, have no need for one and have no clue how to use one.[/QUOTE]
Well, that's what I thought 3 years ago, but then comes the moment when you DO need a scope. It's that moment when you're completely stuck because you can't see if the signal you're outputting is correct or not.
I have a fogging machine (Martin Magnum 850). Online, you can find the manual for the fogging machine and it states that it is possible to get a remote with a timer / adjustable output level. This remote, however, costs 125 euro, that's more than I spent on the fogging machine itself.
An issue I have with this fogging machine though, is that unlike a lot of other fogging machines, it doesn't use DMX. It uses a RJ45 connector to turn itself on/off.
Now, I have the maybe idiotic idea to create a DMX -> RJ45 converter using an Arduino. I'm not entirely sure where to start. There is no technical documentation about what pins cause what action, so I have no way to find out setting which pin to high will do what.
A friend of mine has an Arduino I can borrow, so I might use that to send signal to my fogging machine to find out it's functions.
Now my questions are:
1. Is it safe to just send some signal over the UTP wire into my fogging machine?
2. Is there a smart way to reverse engineer the behavior of the fogging machine, without missing things (so, fail proof)
3. Is there a way to read the output from my already working controller (which only has an on/off button) without breaking it apart?
edit:
I can supply pictures tomorrow if needed
[QUOTE=Cyberuben;46679510]
1. Is it save to just send some signal over the UTP wire into my fogging machine?
2. Is there a smart way to reverse engineer the behavior of the fogging machine, without missing things (so, fail proof)
3. Is there a way to read the output from my already working controller (which only has an on/off button) without breaking it apart?[/QUOTE]
1. It should be
2. You can buy the remote, read the data packets for all kinds of different commands, and then return the remote. Alternatively borrow one.
3. You can buy an RJ45 extension cable and plug it inbetween the two, and rip open the cables and read the datapackets going through the wires.
[QUOTE=DrDevil;46679787]1. It should be
2. You can buy the remote, read the data packets for all kinds of different commands, and then return the remote. Alternatively borrow one.
3. You can buy an RJ45 extension cable and plug it inbetween the two, and rip open the cables and read the datapackets going through the wires.[/QUOTE]
The remote is 125 euro and as far as I know, it is barely used, so I'm out of luck when it comes to that.
How is it possible though, to [url=http://i.imgur.com/rpK9gzK.png]do all this[/url] over just an Ethernet port? I thought you are limited to 4 pins, so, 4 bits (values 0-7)?
[QUOTE=Cyberuben;46679857]The remote is 125 euro and as far as I know, it is barely used, so I'm out of luck when it comes to that.
How is it possible though, to [url=http://i.imgur.com/rpK9gzK.png]do all this[/url] over just an Ethernet port? I thought you are limited to 4 pins, so, 4 bits (values 0-7)?[/QUOTE]
A cheap microcontroller using serial or some other simple communcations.
Even just I2C to an I/O expansion chip.
there are many ways you could do it :)
Power + 2 coms pins. thats all you would need.
[QUOTE=nuttyboffin;46679998]A cheap microcontroller using serial or some other simple communcations.
Even just I2C to an I/O expansion chip.
there are many ways you could do it :)
Power + 2 coms pins. thats all you would need.[/QUOTE]
I have no idea what you just said o.o
[QUOTE=ddrl46;46677887]€ 360,- and a few months with the massive lead time due to how popular they are.[/QUOTE]
Normally I'd ask you what that is in backwards redneck money but thankfully I have my old buddy Google here to inform me that 360 Euros = "Maybe you better wait on that a bit..."
[QUOTE=Zero-Point;46680120]Normally I'd ask you what that is in backwards redneck money but thankfully I have my old buddy Google here to inform me that 360 Euros = "Maybe you better wait on that a bit..."[/QUOTE]
The Rigol 1052D was $800 when it first came to the market, but the 1054Z is starting at US$329.
So its a fantastic deal.
[editline]9th December 2014[/editline]
Also Rigol doesn't acknowledge Canada's existence.
So in the most recent adventures of my "how the hell am I going to finish this project by finals?" I'm stuck with another dilemma.
I've got one of those clamp current sensor things that has a ferrite core and a transformer. I've got a working circuit for it and everything, but the problem is I have no way to test it as every wire in my house is 2-core wire, meaning that the magnetic fields cancel themselves out.
How would I go about testing this thing if I have no access to any type of load that does not have split AC wires? I was thinking about tapping into the house input at the breaker box but 1) I don't want to kill myself and 2) I don't know if the sensor can handle that large a voltage.
Any suggestions?
[QUOTE=Cyberuben;46680053]I have no idea what you just said o.o[/QUOTE]
Perhaps a cheap USB to DMX cable will work?
[url]http://www.amazon.com/KEDSUM%C2%AE-Interface-Converter-Computer-Controller/dp/B009B5II8G/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1418184981&sr=1-1&keywords=usb+to+dmx[/url]
Last night I realized my fundamental flaw in the synth I had designed. There was no resistor from the microcontroller pins to the transistor base pins, causing it to overload the transistor (that's a thing, right?).
Anyway, this is just the proof of concept board to test out a sort of pseudo chording by pulsing through a number of notes in quick succession.
I think the sweet spot is around 10ms per note, which gives a heartwarmingly retro sound.
Anyway, you can hear the results here [url]http://instagram.com/p/wY8RiKt6Oc[/url]
[QUOTE=Tw34k;46681178]Perhaps a cheap USB to DMX cable will work?
[url]http://www.amazon.com/KEDSUM%C2%AE-Interface-Converter-Computer-Controller/dp/B009B5II8G/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1418184981&sr=1-1&keywords=usb+to+dmx[/url][/QUOTE]
No, my fogging machine doesn't take DMX.
Edit:
Oh wow, Martin sent me literally everything I could possibly need. They sent me the entire schematics for the remote control, both the on/off controller and the controller that has a timer / output regulation. Now get someone to help me decipher it so I can start programming!
[QUOTE=DrDevil;46678838]I had to wait 1 month additionally to the initially declared 3 weeks lead time... this thing really is selling like sliced bread![/QUOTE]
Yeah it's crazy, people ordering now are going to be waiting until late January, glad I didn't wait until Christmas to order :v:
[QUOTE=papkee;46680376]So in the most recent adventures of my "how the hell am I going to finish this project by finals?" I'm stuck with another dilemma.
I've got one of those clamp current sensor things that has a ferrite core and a transformer. I've got a working circuit for it and everything, but the problem is I have no way to test it as every wire in my house is 2-core wire, meaning that the magnetic fields cancel themselves out.
How would I go about testing this thing if I have no access to any type of load that does not have split AC wires? I was thinking about tapping into the house input at the breaker box but 1) I don't want to kill myself and 2) I don't know if the sensor can handle that large a voltage.
Any suggestions?[/QUOTE]
A current transformer doesn't output a high voltage as long as it's connected to a current meter, since V = I/R, if you was to disconnect the current meter while there is current going through the CT then it would produce high voltage which is why CT's are kept shorted when measurements are not being made.
Hi there, smart people, I'm making some RGB LED strips for my car, which are going to acting as a sort of fog light, with an indicator mode. So, because of this, it'll have to use a varying voltage (12-~14), and take a 12V input, as well as a 12V output, controlled by an Arduino. Here's my current design:
[t]http://i.imgur.com/hRmQ15X.jpg[/t]
First of: is there something that's obviously not going to work here? Second: How could I best read the input from the car?
I know I'm missing the voltage regulator for the Arduino, reset button, etc. I'd also like to add bluetooth functionality to this if possible, but I have no idea how to start.
[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;46676673]It should look something like this:
[T]http://u.limonene.net/Sketch9293611.jpg[/T]
[Sp]Yes, I did this on a phone[/Sp][/QUOTE]
I have tried this setup with various capacitors (100, 470 and even 1000 uf), but none of them seem to help enough to fix the reset issue. I tried putting one from my V+ rail to the Vin pin onto the arduino nano as well but that just results in a short pulse of power to the nano after which it stays off.
could it be due to them having dried up? Is there an easy way to check this (without an ESR meter)? They aren't stored in particulary high temprature places, just in plastic bags within a wooden box.
Hmmmm.
How to drive ten eight segment numerical displays from one microcontroller.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/clock_concept.png[/IMG]
Edited: or we find a way to have the microcontroller spit out IRIG timecode so I don't have to gut this beautiful clock.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/CGS_0827.jpg[/IMG]
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