Just checked on my Rigol, won't ship until Dec. 31st. :/
Should've expected that I guess.
[editline]13th December 2014[/editline]
[QUOTE=Chryseus;46706946][t]http://u.cubeupload.com/Chryseus/0QIsWj.jpg[/t]
Am I the only one that prefers to work late at night ?[/QUOTE]
I used to tinker well into the late hours. Much to the chagrin of everyone at home, because most of my tinkering involved a Dremel.
Hmm. To 20 run a 25W VHF television transmitter, or to not.....
In other news I fucked the LED stripping under out kitchen cabinets. Remember those?
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/around%20the%20house/IMG_5371.jpg[/IMG]
Yes those. They're all incredibly dim now. I was told that limiting resistors were built into them. I guess either there were not or the LED's had a really terrible lifespan.
[QUOTE=Leestons;46707611]It's just as easy (or even easier) to help you in this thread. And you'll get more help as more people will see it.
What's your project?[/QUOTE]
Alright yea sorry thats a better idea. I'm trying to make a music visualizer with three 3w LEDs, that flash according to the music. I got the MSGEQ7 ([URL]https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10468[/URL]) I'm basically following this guide here [URL]http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-build-your-own-LED-Color-Organ-Arduino-MSGE/[/URL]
Now all would be well if the LEDs could run off the arduino, but they cant due to the high power use they have. So I'm hooking up an external power supply to the breadboard. After attempting to learn how the hell to do it (pretend the PNP is a MOSFET and the volt reg would be a lm317) I made this sketch
[thumb]http://i.imgur.com/5Jtpp8Y.png[/thumb]
I posted on the arduino forums and they said that looked alright, but I didn't tell them the power supply amount. Would that sketch work with a 9v 3a power supply, the three lights add up to 2.25a, but i have no idea what volts do in this.
The Specs of the lights:
Forward Voltage: 3.2-3.8V
Forward Current: 750mA
[QUOTE=DrDevil;46706969]MORE AMPS!![/QUOTE]
I tried, but I'm bad at these.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/5ZG540G.jpg[/img]
[QUOTE=Maksim;46708655]Alright yea sorry thats a better idea. I'm trying to make a music visualizer with three 3w LEDs, that flash according to the music. I got the MSGEQ7 ([URL]https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10468[/URL]) I'm basically following this guide here [URL]http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-build-your-own-LED-Color-Organ-Arduino-MSGE/[/URL]
Now all would be well if the LEDs could run off the arduino, but they cant due to the high power use they have. So I'm hooking up an external power supply to the breadboard. After attempting to learn how the hell to do it (pretend the PNP is a MOSFET and the volt reg would be a lm317) I made this sketch
[thumb]http://i.imgur.com/5Jtpp8Y.png[/thumb]
I posted on the arduino forums and they said that looked alright, but I didn't tell them the power supply amount. Would that sketch work with a 9v 3a power supply, the three lights add up to 2.25a, but i have no idea what volts do in this.
The Specs of the lights:
Forward Voltage: 3.2-3.8V
Forward Current: 750mA[/QUOTE]
The actual switching part looks fine, except you don't need a resistor in series with the gate since a MOSFET draws almost no current.
You need a resistor and trimmer for the voltage regulator to adjust the output voltage, although one thing to keep in mind is that the LED forward voltage varies between them so you won't get the exact same current through each one, if that's a problem for you I suggest using 3 LM317 regulator configured as current regulators like so:
[img]http://linear1.org/i/currentreg.gif[/img]
Replace the resistor with 2 ohms 1W.
Power dissipation per regulator will be around 4.3W so you will need to mount them to a heatsink, alternatively using a lower voltage supply (minimum is 6V) will reduce the power dissipation, if the LEDs are not on all the time the average power dissipation will of course be a good bit lower.
I still can't seem to get my new esp8266 boards working, though I seem to be getting some sort of garbage output occasionally. I don't think it's getting enough power, so I'll have to find some way of getting 3.3v from somewhere else and not frying the module, the arduino and my computer.
I made a quick voltage divider and once I attached it to the arduino's TX line, a continuous stream of characters only seemed to make the voltage hover around 0.36v, which doesn't seem like it would work.
I wish they had a 5V tolerant version of the part, it would save me so much stress trying to get [I]something[/I] out of these boards.
[QUOTE=benjgvps;46711522]I still can't seem to get my new esp8266 boards working, though I seem to be getting some sort of garbage output occasionally. I don't think it's getting enough power, so I'll have to find some way of getting 3.3v from somewhere else and not frying the module, the arduino and my computer.
I made a quick voltage divider and once I attached it to the arduino's TX line, a continuous stream of characters only seemed to make the voltage hover around 0.36v, which doesn't seem like it would work.
I wish they had a 5V tolerant version of the part, it would save me so much stress trying to get [I]something[/I] out of these boards.[/QUOTE]
What resistors are you using? Next time you buy a devboard, make sure its a 3.3V one. 5V is becoming a thing of the past.
[QUOTE=Chryseus;46710174]The actual switching part looks fine, except you don't need a resistor in series with the gate since a MOSFET draws almost no current.
You need a resistor and trimmer for the voltage regulator to adjust the output voltage, although one thing to keep in mind is that the LED forward voltage varies between them so you won't get the exact same current through each one, if that's a problem for you I suggest using 3 LM317 regulator configured as current regulators like so:
[IMG]http://linear1.org/i/currentreg.gif[/IMG]
Replace the resistor with 2 ohms 1W.
Power dissipation per regulator will be around 4.3W so you will need to mount them to a heatsink, alternatively using a lower voltage supply (minimum is 6V) will reduce the power dissipation, if the LEDs are not on all the time the average power dissipation will of course be a good bit lower.[/QUOTE]
Ok i bought heatsinks for the voltage regulators, and I did order 3 mosfets and 3 lm317s so we are good with that. Now when you say you suggest using 3 LM317s, you are saying one lm317 and one mosfet per led right? Also I understand the schematic except for one part, why is the adj going infront of the resistor, i though it was supposed to go to ground (also V Out is positive, so how is a negative connecting)? Sorry I'm just new to this, I really really appreciate the help though, thank you.
(what i got from the schematic, just confused about the ADJ)
[thumb]http://i.imgur.com/dbXQHoq.png[/thumb]
Is my sketch right according to the schematic?
It's so much easier to get 5v though :(
[editline]14th December 2014[/editline]
I've never heard of a 7803.3
[QUOTE=Leestons;46711794]It's so much easier to get 5v though :(
[editline]14th December 2014[/editline]
I've never heard of a 7803.3[/QUOTE]
There's more than enough cheap 3.3V regulators, not to mention even more dc-dc-regulators.
[QUOTE=Leestons;46711794]It's so much easier to get 5v though :(
[editline]14th December 2014[/editline]
I've never heard of a 7803.3[/QUOTE]
The 78xx / 79xx series isn't the only voltage regulator out there.
I figured I'd link to a Digikey search of a massive list of 3.3V fixed output linear regulators, but I could only find three with fixed output.
[url="http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?pv48=22&FV=fff40027%2Cfff8029a&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25"]Switching seems to have more results[/url], might as well get those power savings.
[QUOTE=nikomo;46712114]I figured I'd link to a Digikey search of a massive list of 3.3V fixed output linear regulators, but I could only find three with fixed output.
[url="http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?pv48=22&FV=fff40027%2Cfff8029a&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25"]Switching seems to have more results[/url], might as well get those power savings.[/QUOTE]
[url=http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?pv48=22&FV=fff40027%2Cfff80182&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=100001&page=1&k=&filterAlwaysExpand=1&quantity=1&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=100&akamai-feo=off]???[/url]
[QUOTE=DrDevil;46712161][url=http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?pv48=22&FV=fff40027%2Cfff80182&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=100001&page=1&k=&filterAlwaysExpand=1&quantity=1&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=100&akamai-feo=off]???[/url][/QUOTE]
... What the hell, I selected 3V3 fixed output when I searched and it found three.
Now it shows a ton. I must have clicked on something.
But yeah, there's a ton of options. Just need to poke at the parametric search.
[QUOTE=Maksim;46711792]Ok i bought heatsinks for the voltage regulators, and I did order 3 mosfets and 3 lm317s so we are good with that. Now when you say you suggest using 3 LM317s, you are saying one lm317 and one mosfet per led right? Also I understand the schematic except for one part, why is the adj going infront of the resistor, i though it was supposed to go to ground (also V Out is positive, so how is a negative connecting)? Sorry I'm just new to this, I really really appreciate the help though, thank you.
(what i got from the schematic, just confused about the ADJ)
[thumb]http://i.imgur.com/dbXQHoq.png[/thumb]
Is my sketch right according to the schematic?[/QUOTE]
The LM317 is connected to ground through Vout, essentially you can think of it as a variable resistance which is controlled by the adjust pin, the output is adjusted so Vout is 1.25V with the adjust pin grounded, by adding resistors you can change the internal reference voltage to whatever you like, in the case of the current regulator 2 ohms with 750mA through it drops 1.25V.
[img]http://u.cubeupload.com/Chryseus/VRAF4d.png[/img]
[IMG]http://www.rcdude.com/images/RCDudeHobbies/HP-LG325-0180-1S2.jpg[/IMG]
[URL]http://www.rcdude.com/servlet/the-1603/Hyperion-G3-CX--dsh-/Detail[/URL]
The battery on an old airhogs mini helicopter I have died a long time ago. It is a little 140mAh LiPo battery. Someone on the internet said the pic above was a good replacement and it should work with the airhogs charger. Is there any way of knowing for sure that this will charge with the charger I have now?
I have one issue though, in the picture there does not seem to be a red and black wire to connect where the old battery is. To my (untrained) eye it just looks like a metal tab and some hollow heat shrink tubing. Can I just solder some wires on the end of the tabs and connect to the helicopter?
As you can probably tell I am not an expert on this topic so if I missed some information just ask.
EDIT:
Here is some more info on the old battery that came with the heli
[img]http://puu.sh/dvbHS/a236bf6d4f.png[/img]
Found it on the instruction manual: [url]http://international.airhogs.com/en/products/sharpshooter/at_download/instructions[/url]
[QUOTE=Chryseus;46712586]The LM317 is connected to ground through Vout, essentially you can think of it as a variable resistance which is controlled by the adjust pin, the output is adjusted so Vout is 1.25V with the adjust pin grounded, by adding resistors you can change the internal reference voltage to whatever you like, in the case of the current regulator 2 ohms with 750mA through it drops 1.25V.
[IMG]http://u.cubeupload.com/Chryseus/VRAF4d.png[/IMG][/QUOTE]
Ok let me make sure I'm understanding everything, so by default when the V-Adj is hooked to ground it allows only 1.25v to V-out, or allows the original power supply voltage minus 1.25v?
I tried to order my components at farnell.com, but they do not take orders below €50, and I only need about €20 worth of parts.
Does anyone know where to get a lot of different components? Farnell has a LOT of them with really detailed search, but I can't find any other shop like this. I don't mind if the parts have to be shipped, as long as they have a all the parts I need.
[QUOTE=Cyberuben;46716940]I tried to order my components at farnell.com, but they do not take orders below €50, and I only need about €20 worth of parts.
Does anyone know where to get a lot of different components? Farnell has a LOT of them with really detailed search, but I can't find any other shop like this. I don't mind if the parts have to be shipped, as long as they have a all the parts I need.[/QUOTE]
Tayda?
[editline]15th December 2014[/editline]
[QUOTE=Maksim;46715074]Ok let me make sure I'm understanding everything, so by default when the V-Adj is hooked to ground it allows only 1.25v to V-out, or allows the original power supply voltage minus 1.25v?[/QUOTE]
It will only output 1.25v
[QUOTE=Cyberuben;46716940]I tried to order my components at farnell.com, but they do not take orders below €50, and I only need about €20 worth of parts.
Does anyone know where to get a lot of different components? Farnell has a LOT of them with really detailed search, but I can't find any other shop like this. I don't mind if the parts have to be shipped, as long as they have a all the parts I need.[/QUOTE]
Digikey?
Mouser?
[QUOTE=Cyberuben;46716940]I tried to order my components at farnell.com, but they do not take orders below €50, and I only need about €20 worth of parts.
Does anyone know where to get a lot of different components? Farnell has a LOT of them with really detailed search, but I can't find any other shop like this. I don't mind if the parts have to be shipped, as long as they have a all the parts I need.[/QUOTE]
Dickbest.nl is a pretty good parts supplier, farnell, digikey and mouser aren't really an option (in the Netherlands) unless you are a company or you have a LOT of stuff to order.
[QUOTE=toaster468;46715041][IMG]http://www.rcdude.com/images/RCDudeHobbies/HP-LG325-0180-1S2.jpg[/IMG]
[URL]http://www.rcdude.com/servlet/the-1603/Hyperion-G3-CX--dsh-/Detail[/URL]
The battery on an old airhogs mini helicopter I have died a long time ago. It is a little 140mAh LiPo battery. Someone on the internet said the pic above was a good replacement and it should work with the airhogs charger. Is there any way of knowing for sure that this will charge with the charger I have now?
I have one issue though, in the picture there does not seem to be a red and black wire to connect where the old battery is. To my (untrained) eye it just looks like a metal tab and some hollow heat shrink tubing. Can I just solder some wires on the end of the tabs and connect to the helicopter?
As you can probably tell I am not an expert on this topic so if I missed some information just ask.
EDIT:
Here is some more info on the old battery that came with the heli
[img]http://puu.sh/dvbHS/a236bf6d4f.png[/img]
Found it on the instruction manual: [url]http://international.airhogs.com/en/products/sharpshooter/at_download/instructions[/url][/QUOTE]
The lead with the shrinktube is probably positive and is shrinktube'd to prevent any possible shorting f the terminals during transport. Just use a voltmeter. One way with give a positive voltage, the other way will have a negative voltage. Also yes, you just solder to the tabs.
Why are micros so cheap on eBay compared to more "legit" suppliers?
I'm aware that the risk of getting a rebadged hunk of shit is exponentially higher if you order random microcontrollers from eBay, but I see ATMega2560s for less than 5€ on eBay, and 13.40€ on Digikey (sort by price, first one that allows 1pc order).
ATMega328 is more reasonable, 2.63€ single-order on Digikey vs "ATMega328" on eBay for 1.33€
Then again, all you need to do is buy one shit fake and you've removed any cost benefit you had.
Good thing I don't need to think about those more powerful micros, 2560 is a bit overkill for anything I'd do, right now, I think.
Any of you ever order ICs from eBay and get shit instead of the real thing?
Probably to do with the cost of a legit business having to declare everything and pay import fees and tariffs, then factoring that into the price.
They also hold supply contracts with larger companies which have to buy from them. A fantastic example of this is [URL=https://us.vwr.com/store/catalog/product.jsp?catalog_number=470020-814]$27.50 for ten Styrofoam cups[/URL] from a laboratory supplier.
[editline]15th December 2014[/editline]
Where as Chinese suppliers can pretty much buy everything at cost, stuff it in a padded envelope and toss it in the mail box.
[editline]15th December 2014[/editline]
Speaking of China, I just got the mail and got what can only be described as a garbage bag with a postage stamp addressed to me.
Then again, I did get a bit over 300€ in tax returns last week.
I could do a bit of chip lottery.
The garbage bag had 5*100 single row male headers and 5*100 double row male headers.
Woooo!
[editline]15th December 2014[/editline]
Compared to the DHL package that also came, which was completely smashed.
Fuck DHL.
I just ordered a 858D. A WEP model, not Atten, but it's pretty much the same thing, I think it's actually a direct clone, the nozzles are interchangable, the hot air gun part is the same etc.
Does anyone have any experience with the AS3935 lightning sensor breakout boards you see around at different vendors? I kinda want to buy and play with one, not sure if they work worth a damn though
[editline]16th December 2014[/editline]
also now that a think about it maybe orderikng one of those in the dead of winter isn't the best idea
Got my evalution done on my first microcontroller project, got a 3. (The scale goes from 1 to 3, 3 is best)
[t]http://i.imgur.com/HxmruEM.jpg[/t]
No flicker at all, even when it updates the value, it's pretty.
[QUOTE=pentium;46718722][QUOTE=toaster468;46715041][IMG]http://www.rcdude.com/images/RCDudeHobbies/HP-LG325-0180-1S2.jpg[/IMG]
[URL]http://www.rcdude.com/servlet/the-1603/Hyperion-G3-CX--dsh-/Detail[/URL]
The battery on an old airhogs mini helicopter I have died a long time ago. It is a little 140mAh LiPo battery. Someone on the internet said the pic above was a good replacement and it should work with the airhogs charger. Is there any way of knowing for sure that this will charge with the charger I have now?
I have one issue though, in the picture there does not seem to be a red and black wire to connect where the old battery is. To my (untrained) eye it just looks like a metal tab and some hollow heat shrink tubing. Can I just solder some wires on the end of the tabs and connect to the helicopter?
As you can probably tell I am not an expert on this topic so if I missed some information just ask.
EDIT:
Here is some more info on the old battery that came with the heli
[img]http://puu.sh/dvbHS/a236bf6d4f.png[/img]
Found it on the instruction manual: [url]http://international.airhogs.com/en/products/sharpshooter/at_download/instructions[/url][/QUOTE]
The lead with the shrinktube is probably positive and is shrinktube'd to prevent any possible shorting f the terminals during transport. Just use a voltmeter. One way with give a positive voltage, the other way will have a negative voltage. Also yes, you just solder to the tabs.[/QUOTE]
Cool, thanks for the help
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